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10/26/2008 11:39:46 AM EDT
Have to cut off toilet seat to bowl bolts;have done this in past to brass bolts-no problem,cutting butter.But the previous owner put SS wingnuts on em;no room to work;went through 4 cut-off wheels-no progress.Have a roto-zip-not enough room.HELP!
10/26/2008 11:43:54 AM EDT
[#1]
Carefully drill them out from the top.

 
10/26/2008 11:45:56 AM EDT
[#2]
tannerite





then replace entire bowl
10/26/2008 11:46:59 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
tannerite


then replace entire bowl [red]room[/red].
10/26/2008 11:47:47 AM EDT
[#4]


Quoted:

Have to cut off toilet seat to bowl bolts;have done this in past to brass bolts-no problem,cutting butter.But the previous owner put SS wingnuts on em;no room to work;went through 4 cut-off wheels-no progress.Have a roto-zip-not enough room.HELP!
Carefully bust off the toilet seat from around the securing bolts, and attack the bolts from the top.
10/26/2008 11:49:20 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:


Carefully drill them out from the top.  
Bolts are rotating against smooth porcelain-no way to anchor from bottom for an easy-out either.





 
10/26/2008 11:50:48 AM EDT
[#6]
Flexible cable attachment for Dremel. http://www.amazon.com/tag/dremel%20flex%20shaft%20cable



I works for RotoZips as well.
10/26/2008 11:56:07 AM EDT
[#7]
Have it -adequate cut off wheel for stainless is the question.These wing nuts ate up 4 of my wheels.
10/26/2008 11:59:57 AM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:


Have it -adequate cut off wheel for stainless is the question.These wing nuts ate up 4 of my wheels.


Maybe try grinding them down instead of cutting them off?



 
10/26/2008 12:00:27 PM EDT
[#9]
Sawzall with a 12" metal blade. Have cut a few off with this method.  Run the blade between the bowl and bottom of the seat flange.
10/26/2008 12:04:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Go to Home Depot, and pick up a 5 or 20 pack of these. I just picked up a 5 pack, got tired of breaking the thin flimsy ones. I used it to cut off the weld on a barrel nut on a converted (to normal cap) WASR-10 from the angry beavers at Century. Took like 3 minutes, cut it cleanly, and the barrel nut came right out. Said WASR was originally purchased in NY, so it was nutered in an AWB-friendly fashion...now that I'm not in NY, it was safe to do so.



10/26/2008 12:18:13 PM EDT
[#11]
Put down the dremel and step away from the barrel   .  .......... oh you said bowl   just attack it from the top
10/28/2008 2:59:48 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Go to Home Depot, and pick up a 5 or 20 pack of these. I just picked up a 5 pack, got tired of breaking the thin flimsy ones. I used it to cut off the weld on a barrel nut on a converted (to normal cap) WASR-10 from the angry beavers at Century. Took like 3 minutes, cut it cleanly, and the barrel nut came right out. Said WASR was originally purchased in NY, so it was nutered in an AWB-friendly fashion...now that I'm not in NY, it was safe to do so.



Thanks Ed;that looks like the ticket.Thanks for all the help guys.
10/28/2008 3:57:15 AM EDT
[#13]
work with a lower speed, until you have a decent notch cut. on harder materials slower speeds take longer but less headaches. and get the flexishaft for your dremel if you don't have one.
10/28/2008 4:12:32 AM EDT
[#14]
Go to Harbor Freight and get a $20 angle grinder.  I bought mine for a vehicle repair (tie rod ends) and it's still going strong 5 years later, much easier for sharpening mower blades than the bench grinder.
10/28/2008 9:28:48 AM EDT
[#15]
I'd agree with the "busting the toilet seat off" bit, and then use a BIG grinder with thin wheel from the top.

Also.... stainless is tough b!tch material, tougher than regular steel. No mechanical cutter really works well on it.
~
10/28/2008 9:32:51 AM EDT
[#16]
Just a hacksaw blade   and do it by hand.
10/28/2008 9:34:32 AM EDT
[#17]
Those fiber reinforced cut off wheels are the way to go, the cheap brittle ones are almost worthless.
10/28/2008 9:36:28 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Just a hacksaw blade   and do it by hand.


+1

This is what I do.

10/28/2008 9:36:57 AM EDT
[#19]
Thanks but you don't know how tight the space is;I can barely get my head around the sides to see the bolts;angle grinder,rotozip,Sawzall-fugetaboutit!I am going to try one more time then replace the toilet.This has become a minor challenge to me as you might have guessed.I will not be defeated by a toilet.
10/28/2008 9:38:09 AM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Those fiber reinforced cut off wheels are the way to go, the cheap brittle ones are almost worthless.



That is ALL I USE...The regular ones EXPLODE into little pieces...

Getting fragged from a dremil
10/28/2008 9:39:08 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Go to Harbor Freight and get a $20 angle grinder.  I bought mine for a vehicle repair (tie rod ends) and it's still going strong 5 years later, much easier for sharpening mower blades than the bench grinder.


I think toilet seats are the same price if not cheaper
10/28/2008 9:39:56 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Sawzall with a 12" metal blade. Have cut a few off with this method.  Run the blade between the bowl and bottom of the seat flange.


Winner.

Do this and you will be fine.

10/28/2008 10:26:22 AM EDT
[#23]
Jeez dude, just remove the toilet, take it in the basement, and hacksaw, sawzall whatever, then replace the wax ring for $0.79 and you're done
10/28/2008 10:58:50 AM EDT
[#24]
Wow.this is crazy. I had the same type of problem with my toilet seat the other day. I got out the dremel and discovered the exploding cut  off wheels...I got the drill out and drilled the plastic bolt out with success........
10/31/2008 9:45:30 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Jeez dude, just remove the toilet, take it in the basement, and hacksaw, sawzall whatever, then replace the wax ring for $0.79 and you're done


I am surprised no one suggested dynamite.
10/31/2008 9:47:36 AM EDT
[#26]
Use the fiber reinforced cut-off disks.  The standard disks are too fragile.
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