[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Self-Defense Flashlight (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/11/2008 4:14:48 PM EDT
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My crappy basic training flashlight crapped out and so I started thinking about making an investment in a quality flashlight. I know some of you have put a lot of research time into this question so I hope to hear some good advice. Here are my needs: 1. Bare minimum 80 lumen output (100 or more preferred) 2. Max budget is $150. Price IS a factor here. 3. LED! No incandescent. 4. No dual output flashlights. Must have single lumen output. 5. Must be small (less than 6") and lightweight (less than 7 ounces). 6. Don't care if it's battery or rechargable. 7. Runtime isn't much of a factor. 8. Would be nice if a red filter attachment is available. 9. And finally, preferably it would have a momentary-on/permanent-on setup. I did some looking around and this is what I came up with for $165: L4 LumaMax  Max Output: 100 lumens Runtime: 2.5 hours Length: 5.10 inches Weight: 3.40 ounces This is over my budget, so I'm hoping I can get a better suggestion from the flashlight nerds here. |
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I don't see what your beef is with dual modes. Fenix TK 11. $75 225 Lumens on turbo, 1.5 hr run time 60 lumens on normal, 12 hours of run time 2 CR123s These guys have it for a good price # Cree Premium (Q5) 7090 XR-E LED with lifespan of 50,000 hours # Two modes of output, selected by turning the bezel (Patented): Turbo Mode: 225 Lumens, 2.7 hours (one 18650 Li-ion battery), 1.5 hours (two CR123A batteries), General Mode: Constant 60 Lumens, 12 hours (one 18650 Li-ion battery), 10 hours (two CR123A batteries) # Highly efficient polished reflector - throws beam over 200 meters # Digitally regulated output - maintains constant brightness # Uses one 4.2V 18650 Li-ion or two 3V CR123A lithium batteries # 135mm (L) x34mm (D) # Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum # Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish # 152-gram weight (excluding batteries) # Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard # Toughened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating # Tactical tailcap switch with momentary-on function # Tactical removable grip-ring for cigar-hold technique # Anti-roll, slip-resistant body design # Included accessories: one holster, lanyard, rubber switch boot and two spare o-rings. |
That is only 70 lumens and is not LED. Did you even read the OP? ETA: I carry a Fexin P2D, but it has multiple output modes, so doesn't fit the OPs wants. |
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Are you sure about wanting LED? My experience with them has been very good with the exception that they don't project a beam nearly as far as the incandescent versions. With that said, I am currently toting around a Nitecore Defender Infinity which is a small LED light that runs on a single AA battery. |
Lighten up, you are wound way too tight. I was just showing him there are other options. |
My thinking is that, in an fast-moving situation, I wouldn't want to be fumbling with switches on my light in an attempt to turn up the brightness. I'd rather just simplify things so that when I wip it out, it's ready to shine in all its glory. |
This |
With either the Nitecore defender (my EDC light now) or any of the Fenix "tactical" lights that won't be a concern. The way they switch modes is impossible to accidentally activate and there is no "switch" to fumble with. The Nitecore models will easily fit your needs and are a lot smaller/lighter and easier to carry than the big 2 CR123 lights like most of the Surefires or the Fenix tactical series. https://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=93 |
That makes some sense. I'm just going to leave it at 60 lumens on John_Wayne777's advice except for when I go to the movies or am at the ranch and need range. The Fenix lumen switch isn't in the tailcap or near the on/off switch. |
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I have a Surefire L4, as well as several Surefire G2's and one Surefire A2 Aviator. The L4 is my favorite hands down. You will not be disappointed with this light. If you want something LED and cheaper, get the G2 with the LED head. A guy on the SIG Forum sells these for $55, plus $6 shipping. |
It's in John_Wayne777's Fighting in Low Light Essentials Basically, you don't want beam reflection to blind yourself. |
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I'd advise a Surefire Z2 or C2-HA, along with a Malkoff Devices M60 (230 lumens x 90 minutes) or M60L (140 lumens x 270 minutes) drop in. They are sold out at the moment, but they'll be back soon. With the Surefire Host you'll get a bullet proof light with a lifetime guarantee. The Malkoff gives awesome output, excellent battery life, and it's way tougher than a incandescent. 3 years from now, if you want to upgrade to a higher put and/or longer lasting LED, all you have to do is buy another drop in. |
The TK11's output level is dimmed by loosening the threaded head of the flashlight by about a quarter-turn. However, when it's tightened fully, the output always remains on the high setting. If you want to defeat the low setting, it wouldn't be any problem to freeze the head in the fully-tightened position with a little bit of Loctite - Use the temporary kind if you think you might ever change your mind, or the permanent kind if you're a burn-your-bridges kind of guy... 
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I'm not wound up tight, I just think it's a waste of time to post items that do not meet the qualifications he specified. Pentagon does make LED lights that meet his specs like This One for $95. |
+1 If you are worried about the dual level you can just leave it on the "Sunshine in the night" setting. You can always twist it to the dimmer "Surefire" setting for blinding your friends. |
Nope, SureFires are just overpriced and are going to have to get with the program if they want to compete for the business of the non operators who want a decent, bright light with out spending a rediculous amount of money. Expensive doesn't always mean better. I bought the Fenix L1D Premium because it uses 1 AA battery, it's small, and it puts out about 120 blinding lumens. I had a hard time justifying its' $57(shipped) price tag, I couldn't imagine paying double that price. |
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I love my L2 Lumamax with dual output. Really its just as much a defence flashlight as a single output. You dont even notice the 2 different modes when you hit the tailcap all the way down. If you're looking for a less expencive flashlight, apparently Fenix flashlights are pretty good, but made in china, FWIW. ETA Get the 6P LED Defender   www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/prrfnbr/24532/sesent/00 You can usually get them for 100 bucks or less. |
Expensive doesn't always mean better but Surefire does. That Surefire is the only flashlight you will have to buy in your lifetime. |
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www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10196618 I have one and, I shit you not, it's pretty damn nice. It's bright (packaging says 115 lumen's, and thats probably not far from the mark), simple and cheap. It has a single button on the tail cap. It's easy to press for momentary, but getting it pressed all the way for constant on can be a little harder then I'd like. Thats my only beef with it though. It may not be as nice as the more expensive lights, but it seems to fit your needs pretty well. It sure works for me. -Local |
+1 i'm impressed with mine. they now have an even smaller version, that uses CR2 batt's, and for $29, one with red/blue options FWIW, i carry this more than my $65 surefire 
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What about a SureFire G2 with a M60 Mod (Cree XRE 7090)? This takes the $36 SureFire G2 and for only $50 more turns it into a 235+ Lumens beast. |
With most lights, it's a pressure sensitive tail switch. On my Surefire L2, you can set how much force it will take to activate the low mode, anywhere from a considerable push to just breathing on it. This is adjusted by how far you screw the tail cap on. High mode is just pressing it in a little further. In a panic situation, you'd hit high mode automatically. In fact, it would be extremely difficult under stress to hit the low mode instead of the high mode. Dual modes mean you can actually use the light without killing the expensive CR123 batteries; saving high mode for when you actually need that much light. |
Hey that is good to know, thanks. I didn't know it was pressure-sensitive like that...I just assumed that the 2 modes were activated with a side switch or something similar. Now that I have that information I think I might go back and review my choices again. |
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4100 Lumens of blinding light.. AND, as A Bonus, 3rd Degree Burns if you get within 6 inches of your www.wickedlasers.com/lasers/Wicked_Lights-74-0.html |
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I bought a TK10 from fenix recently, and another one of their l2d premium lights. We recently had a fire out in a pasture and I can tell you these things are just awesome. We used the TK10 to allow darkness handgun shooting by letting the shooter call out left (big box of paperwork duct taped up for fun) and right (paper target). There were other lights available, but it wasn't necessary (or noticeable) to use them with the 225 lumen full output mode of the TK10. Seriously, I play around with this thing, use it nearly daily, multiple cycles just because it's pretty fun to mess around with. So far, in over two months, they're both flawless. We'll see how they are for the truly long term, but they send multiple o-rings and other maintenance parts in the box. I couldn't recommend this light more highly. www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=720921 |
WTH does this mean?
This is on the SureFire E2D LED Defender. Talk about a complicated manual of arms in an emergency situation. |
its the big end that holds the bulb |
Skibane talked about it on page 1. The "bezel" is the tube that houses the LED and reflector. Basically, grab the front of the flashlight with one hand, the body with another, and twist. It's pretty tough to turn so it doesn't flop around or anything. |
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I have several Surefires... E1L, E2L, Backup, L4, 6P (w/HO bulb), 9P (w/HO bulb), and M6 (w/HO bulb). While all the above are fine flashlights, personally I wouldn't feel too froggy with a flashlight as a defensive tool unless it was the M6 w/ 500 lumen HO bulb, or something similar in output and focus. I just backed up that opinion (again) by letting my wife flash me those those lights above while I "attacked" her... 100ish lumens is annoying, but just doesn't have a whole lot of other effect. I am however still seeing spots though from the M6 we did last. |
I have an M6, its rediculous  I feel quite good with it as a self defence tool. At night your vision is FUCKED if he beam hits you in the eyes. Unfortunatly its sitting without batteries since i used them up 20 minutes aint that good a runtime, although for general use i still use my L2 Lumamax. |
bump. Anyone own a SureFire E2D Defender? |
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UMP45, The E2DLed uses the same type of clickie switch as the L4, E2L, E1L, E2E, E1E... even the Maglight. It's known as a forward clickie - this means you can push the switch a little way in, and the light turns on before you get to the "click." You can release the switch, and the light turns off. You can also fully push the switch, and it will "click" on and stay on when you release the switch; click it again to turn off. The new Surefire digitally-switched lights (E2L, E1L, E1B, E2DL) are different than previous dual-output lights. The L2 and L1, the A2 Aviator, and the K2 Kroma all use a non-digital, resistor-based pressure switch that did not click. This is the switch described earlier, in which you push a little for low, then push harder/further for high. The Surefire instructions you quote are more complicated than they need to be; it's easier done than said. The E2DL has 2 outputs, high and low. The electronic circuit in the head always starts it on high. The circuit has a memory that lasts about 2 seconds when the power is off. So when you want to switch modes, you cut the power for less than two seconds, the light "remembers" whatever mode it was in, and switches to the other mode. Since it starts on high, if you want high, just turn the light on and use it. If you want low, turn the light on, and then within 2 seconds turn it off and back on. If you turn it off for more than 2 seconds, it "forgets" and turns back on in high regardless of the previous mode. The high/low and the press/click are not related, they are completely independent of each other. I think that's where Surefire's instructions get overly complicated. All you have to remember to switch modes, is cut the power for less than 2 seconds. It's very easy to learn if you play with the light for a few minutes. However, you mention "in an emergency situation." I don't know what kind of emergency you mean, but I'm not thrilled with the digital-switching for "tactical" uses. Although the light always turns on first on high, if you turn it off for less than 2 seconds, it will come back on in low. And in an emergency situation, you might be wanting and/or expecting it come back on in high. I don't like that. It's fine in a utility light (I love my dual-output E2L), but for a "tactical" light I would only use a single-output light or one where the level is not chosen by how many times I flash the light in a certain amount of time.
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www.rangerjoes.com/phenix-gear-flashlight-tactical-130-p-4232.html |
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If you're gonna use it a lot go with a Fenix L2D, it uses AA's so you can use rechargeables, CR-123's are expensive and harder to find. Not hard, hardER. You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a AA battery, they are in your remotes, radios, all sorts of electronics. 7-11 or QT down the street has them, you can't say that for CR-123's. Fenix L2D 
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Fenix TK10 is a great light and the one that got me into collecting flashlights. It's a solidly built flashlight that's extremely bright @ 225 lumens max and 60 lumens min, and it only costs around $80. I guarantee you won't be disappointed. To go form max to min all you do is give the head a slight twist, couldn't be easier. If you prefer something a little smaller the Nitecore Extreme Infinity is also a great light at 190 lumens max. Plus that website offers free shipping and is top notch in customer service. |
I do. I love it. |