Posted: 10/14/2007 1:11:25 PM EDT
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Which threadlocker to use?? For motorcycle cam bearing caps (KLR650)? Regular red (27100) good to 300 degrees. Permatex says heat to 450 for removal. or High-temp red (24026 / 27200) good to 450 degrees. Permatex says to heat to 500 for removal. I don't recall ever having to actually apply heat to remove the regular red type. Will if actually be necessary to use heat to remove the high-temperature kind? The upper limit of 300 degrees for the regular type seems marginal - not sure what the oil temperature typically runs in a KLR650. I'm tempted to use the high temperature product if I can find it, but I'd prefer not to actually need to use heat to remove it. Comments? Advice? Thanks, PRK ??? |
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I don't know. I've never applied thread locker to any cam caps in an automotive engine before, for what little that's worth. Sometimes you have to heat up parts to break the red stuff loose, sometimes you don't. It seems like on larger/coarser threads, it's easier just to run the bolts out without worrying about heat. Finer pitched/smaller stuff breaks easier. |
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From this thread it would seem like its either poop or islam. thread lock thread |
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FWIW, There already was some kind of red in there, and the service dept. said they use red, but was not aware of the high-temp variety. I think I'm going to pass on the high-temp variety after all. The head is aluminum and one of the bolts goes into an area that is partly machined away. The high-temp idea came from a guy on a KLR web-site who otherwise has some pretty solid, well-written procedures. Even his webmaster, though, had some remarks about the guy's obsessiveness. I don't really like the idea of having to heat the engine to remove stuff. A torch is a bit on the heavy side, and I don't have a heat gun. I did use a hair dryer once, though, when there was a too-tightly fitted part. That either was a success or a disaster, depending on who you talk to.  Maybe I should have wiped it off better when I was done.
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| I guess I was overestimating the operating temperature. This is the first time an actual adjustment has been worthwhile, fortunately two of the shims are changing locations and I only had to buy two. For the disassembly involved, it would be nice if they came in .001"increments instead of .002". |
I really doubt your oil temp runs much higher than the water temp if the bike is liquid cooled or even if it is air cooled I doubt it runs hotter than 250°F. Both are just guesses. |