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AR15.COM
5/17/2007 5:45:24 PM EDT
I need some help with my tractor. I have an OLD Ford tractor that was working fine until my father in law hooked up the battery charger backwards on the battery in an attempt to charge the battery without me knowing about it!  

I need help:
1) ID'ing the tractor as far as model
2) Any ideas on getting this thing started again?

I bought a new battery, which is a 6 volt battery. Apparently these old tractors run off a 6v system. I hooked it up like it was before and nothing. When I push the start button I get nothing. Any ideas?

It does look like this system runs off a positive ground. The positive wire was run to the frame and the negative was run to what looks like the starter. It worked fine like this until he hooked it up wrong.

Well anyway, here are some pics and any help is appreciated.

Nick
















5/17/2007 5:49:39 PM EDT
[#1]
Try these forums...someone will know...guaranteed...

www.tractorbynet.com/forums/index.php

I think I would try "vintage tractors" to start.
5/17/2007 5:51:19 PM EDT
[#2]
Photo of the plate on the side of the engine?
5/17/2007 5:53:02 PM EDT
[#3]
Looks like a model 8N.
5/17/2007 5:54:57 PM EDT
[#4]
It looks like an 8n or 9n model, I've no experience with them, but a lot of people have them.

I would look on line, tractor people are pretty cool, I'm sure it would be easy to find some help.
5/17/2007 5:55:58 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Photo of the plate on the side of the engine?


I'll see if i can get one, didn't know there was one there.
5/17/2007 5:57:33 PM EDT
[#6]
Ford 8 N.1947-1952.I've got a "48.IM me with questions.
5/17/2007 5:59:15 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Photo of the plate on the side of the engine?


I'll see if i can get one, didn't know there was one there.


There should be a plate or other indentifying mark somewhere on the side of the block or transmission.

I was thinking 8N or 9N.  I can't recall if the 601 was 6V or not.
5/17/2007 6:00:11 PM EDT
[#8]
Look on the side of the engine block on the left side as you are sitting in the seat for your information.  I have worked on quite a few 8N and 9N tractors. It is pretty hard to do any serious damage.  With the battery fully charged and clean cable ends hooked up to the battery, you should be able to check your starter solenoid with a screwdriver and check your switch with a test light.  
5/17/2007 6:02:02 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Photo of the plate on the side of the engine?


I'll see if i can get one, didn't know there was one there.


There should be a plate or other indentifying mark somewhere on the side of the block or transmission.

I was thinking 8N or 9N.  I can't recall if the 601 was 6V or not.


My 601 is 6v.
5/17/2007 6:02:18 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
Looks like a model 8N.


After more careful study of the photos, it is indeed an 8N.

5/17/2007 6:04:57 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:


My 601 is 6v.


Hard to find anything from that time period that wasn't.
5/17/2007 6:15:30 PM EDT
[#12]
Ok, here are a few more pictures of the tractor.

I did find the marking on the engine where it says "8N".







5/17/2007 6:17:22 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:
With the battery fully charged and clean cable ends hooked up to the battery, you should be able to check your starter solenoid with a screwdriver and check your switch with a test light.  


How do I check the starter solenoid w/ a screwdriver?
5/17/2007 6:23:01 PM EDT
[#14]
Stick the screwdriver between the two big posts and make a connection.  

There is a voltage regulator under the dash, near the tachometer and other gauges.  It's easy to replace and you can get them at Tractor Supply for about $30.  Just incase that's your problem.

Also, look for an inline fuse that might be blown.   some have had them installed.
5/17/2007 6:25:43 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
Stick the screwdriver between the two big posts and make a connection.  

There is a voltage regulator under the dash, near the tachometer and other gauges.  It's easy to replace and you can get them at Tractor Supply for about $30.  Just incase that's your problem.

Also, look for an inline fuse that might be blown.   some have had them installed.


When you say "big posts" are you talking about the + and - terminals on the battery?  Or posts on the voltage regulator itself?
5/17/2007 6:28:30 PM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
Stick the screwdriver between the two big posts and make a connection.  

There is a voltage regulator under the dash, near the tachometer and other gauges.  It's easy to replace and you can get them at Tractor Supply for about $30.  Just incase that's your problem.

Also, look for an inline fuse that might be blown.   some have had them installed.


Sounds like the V-reg to me.  
5/17/2007 6:28:30 PM EDT
[#17]


Got an 8n just like that at my parents.  Yes, 6v system.

Can't tell you why it won't crank though. You have to test the system like others have said. Not much there though.

5/17/2007 6:30:17 PM EDT
[#18]
Neither.  There is a solenoid that the battery wires run to. Follow the battery wires and see the thing that has a few small wires running to it as well as the battery wires. The two big posts on that thing.  it's about the size of a salt shaker.

5/17/2007 6:32:26 PM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
Neither.  There is a solenoid that the battery wires run to. Follow the battery wires and see the thing that has a few small wires running to it as well as the battery wires. The two big posts on that thing.  it's about the size of a salt shaker.


Pangea, thanks.  I will give that a shot.
5/17/2007 6:38:16 PM EDT
[#20]
You are correct - they are positive ground.

There is an old electrician's adage - "where the voltage dies the problem lies"

Take a volt meter set on DC and put the red on the positive terminal on the battery and take the black wire starting at the negative post (to check your meter out and confirm 6V at the battery), and check the system following the wire from there.  If i remember correctly, the wire to the starter goes through the solenoid(should be hot on one side) and when you push the button it just completes the secondary circuit on the solenoid (little wire) by grounding to the tractor frame (hence just one wire going to the button) and this makes the solenoid make its primary contacts to send negative voltage to the starter terminal.  The buttons are bad about getting corrosion under them and the solenoids can go bad.  Its been a while since I fooled with ours - my dad has it and it has been in the family since the 1950's when my grandfather bought it.  We completely rebuilt it about 6 years ago (new sleeves, pistons, valve job, crank turned, the works).