Posted: 2/18/2007 7:25:14 PM EDT
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any suggestions or referrals of places to get this spray paint? ( Alumahyde II ) i called the local hardware stores but they didnt stock it. i might try a google search but i thought id see if anyone could refer me to dealers affiliated with ARFcom first. im using it to paint a fiberglass M14 stock i cant decide if i want to paint it brown, or black, i have handguards for both colors from Fulton Armory and if i can make a good match to the brown one, that itll be... but if they dont have a close resemblance ill paint it black... suggestions? thanks! |
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Don't know how well it works on a stock but I will never use is to the metal parts of a gun again. It does not stand up well to any abuse and is easily damaged. Found here; www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117&title=ALUMA-HYDE%7e+II |
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from that site "Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Here’s the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II to about 90? F.; spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. You can recoat in a few minutes but don’t wait more than thirty minutes. Once Aluma-Hyde II starts curing, you must wait until it’s fully cured to recoat. You can cut the cure time to approximately two days by circulating warm air (90? F. works fine) past the part. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications."' damn... what if i CANT keep the paint and stock at 90 degrees when i paint it and afterwards? |
It actually works pretty well if you bake it after applying it. I have an oven I picked up from goodwill for next to nothing and use it for refinishing. Alumahyde isn't worth crap if not baked. I know it doesn't call for it but for any kind of durability it is neccessary IMHO. |
I know I have always done this to cut the curing time down next to nothing and it's tuff as nails. |
on the brownells site they use a hair dryer to heat it up afterwards... could i paint the stock a little bit at a time and hit it with a hair dryer? will this work? i dont have a stove to put it in.... |
i knew im not suppose to bake it on "well done" but, what temp can the fiberglass stand? |
You dont want any of the AH to start to cure before you apply more, the new stuff will destroy the layer underneath unless you want t o do the whole stock --heat cure it , then apply a new coat. better off to do one coat, cure it fully then if need be apply another OR apply another coat within 15-20 mins. A hair dryer will work to help flash the paint but unless you are going to stand there for some time with the dryer ..... better to hang the part up some how,heat it a little, paint it, heat it a little and let it hang overnight. A full cure may still take some time though. You dont want to stove cure it unless the Wife is outta town for a week or you scaveneged up and old electric stove in the shop for curing paint finishes/powder coating/parts heating and keeping coffe hot --otherwise when she gets home you will be living in the shop. Summertime was great for this after I got the item painted and "dry" I would hang it in my truck all day in the sun while I was out at work by the time I got home and the item cooled, full cure ! Fully cured AH is almost as tough as Dura coat IMHO, DC overall (for me ) being easier to work with and cure. BTW I think the MAX temp for AH II is 120 deg for an hour to oven cure 150 will cause bubbles in the finish --watch your oven carefully most vary widely put an oven thermometer in there with it. A lower temp for longer time will cure it just as effectively. |
one other thing...what type of gun are you going to use it on? If it's an AR, no worries at all. Parkerizing holds onto that paint like...well, like epoxy. I've even done flash suppresors, and had the paint hold up. If the surface is very smooth, like most blued finishes are, you will most likely have durabilty problems, as the paint doesn't stick well to those types of surfaces. If that's the case, then you may want to bead-blast, or otherwise roughen up the surface before you spray it. |
Edit to admit to being a dumbass that didn't read the OP's first post all the way through. zardoz->  <-zardoz
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no biggie... AH seems like it might be a hassle since i have to do this at a friends garage... would the extra hassle be worth it, compared to the simple use of krylon ? |
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lol, my buddy works HVAC, the heater in his over-insulated garage turns the place into a sauna |
i also though of that, without measuring it... but i figured it might fit at an angle, from the lower corner on one side to the top of the other side ETA just checked, wont even fit in at an angle. nevr mind that idea! |
| Alumahyde II is great for stocks. It holds up very well to chemicals. Hoppes and CLP have not damaged the finish on the stocks I've done with it at all. The only downside is that it takes forever for it to properly cure. If you are looking for instant gratification, pick another product. If you are the patient type and want a product that holds up and wears very well, then Alumahyde II is great. I use it on the pistol grips, handguards, and stocks of FAL's, and carry handle grip. Basically, follow the instructions on the can, then stick the stocks away to dry, and in 2-4 weeks they will be dry to be handled. They will be dry to the touch long before then, but you can leave fingerprints if you handle it (for use) before 2 weeks. It is a great product, just depends on your personality, if you want to do things quick and half-assed, or do things right. |