Posted: 1/8/2007 10:05:15 AM EDT
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I've got a fridge (I know, big suprise) that's been acting up for the last several weeks. It stops cooling - the temperature slowly starts to rise in both the fridge and the freezer side. So, I figured I'd do some basic troubleshooting. I first checked the seals on the doors, they're fine. I then removed the panel in the back of the freezer where the coil is and noticed that it was a big block of ice. So, I thawed all the ice and put it all back together and it worked fine.....for about a week. So, I repeated the thawing procedure I mentioned above. And it worked again, for about week. This has been going on for several weeks now. My question is this - does anyone have an idea what could be causing this? Is it something I can repair myself or do I need to have someone come out and fix it. FWIW, the fridge is about 5 years old, it's a side by side model. Thanks in advance. |
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Your defrost time clock has stopped. It is a plastic kind of box shaped thing with about 9 wires coming out in one molex plug. It also has a small knob which only turns in one direction. You can locate it either behind the front kickplate or sometimes it's on the back. I have even seen them inside. If you can't find it, get the model and serial # and get the clock from the appliance parts store. You can then ID the clock on the frige. 99% of the time the defrost clock is the problem. If you want to make sure the clock is defective: Mark the knob and come back 15 minutes later. If the knob has not moved, the clock is shot. Good luck. |
Seeing how you didn't give any info on the fridge like model#, i will have to guess. If it is a GE more than likely its a burnt out heater. If it is a Frigidaire or a maytag/amana it is more than likely a bimetal. Timer is hardly ever the problem. if you give me the model # i can tell you the part # you more than likely need. |
Was it a BLOCK of ice or did it look like snow all compact |
This isn't the correct model# it should be FRS20ZSG??. Either way what you need to do is pull the evap cover off. Then pull the toe grill off. Near the front left wheel there is a circular hole with a weird looking knob recessed in it. turn it with either your thumb or a screw driver(it will only turn 1 direction) when it makes a loud click and unit shuts off wait about 20 seconds then check if heater comes on.DO NOT TOUCH IT it will be very hot. If heater comes on replace timer, if heater does not come on then it is going to be your bimetal. Heater almost never goes out. Bimetal part# is -PS1148314 www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Inventory.1148314/qx/PartDetail.htm?SourceCode=5&ModelNum=FRs20ZSG# timer part# is- PS423801 www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/Inventory.423801/qx/PartDetail.htm?SourceCode=5&ModelNum=FRs20ZSG |
Not really. some you just unhook the wires and hook the new ones back in. most you have to cut the wires and splice it in, you can use wire nuts, just be sure to use electrical tape so water wont get inside of it. |
I have seen too many messes with wire nuts... sorry but I am DEAD SET against them in water situations... butt splices with heat shrink... lets me sleep better at night. Customer complained of a plastic burning smell in her freezer... piece of electrical fell right on the calrod |