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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:55:33 AM EDT
My Nissan Maxima just hit 71,000 and Jiffy Lube recommended I start using Penzoil High Mileage oil, which I am now. Now I've always dragged out my oil changes to intervals of about 4,000 - 4,500 and not their recommended 3,000. (Know someone who managed a chain of Jiffy Lubes and he said stated that one could drag out the intervals to 5,000 unless the driving conditions were very rigorous). Is it only the high quality synthentic oils that alow one to go even longer between oil changes? Any other recommendations?
Now go easy on me. I know a lot about computers but NOT cars!  Thanks in advance. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:59:16 AM EDT
[#1]
71k Thats it. Shit, it's still new. Both Nissans I have (Pathfinder v6 Hardbody 4cyl) get oil changes between 4 and 5k with regular oil and filter and I never had a problem with either. 200k on the pickup and 123k on the Pathy. Oh, don't use Fram filters
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:01:17 AM EDT
[#2]
I personally think you are good. For many years the car manufacturers have had a 6,000 mile oil changes, since you change your every 4-5000 or so, you're well within the car mfg'rs warranty requirments. At one time, the synthetic manufactures said that you could go 12,000 miles between oil, changes, and I think something probably happened and that claim was dropped.
ETA: Unless you were driving in extremely dusty conditions, your oil change intervals should be good. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:03:45 AM EDT
[#3]
Don't use Fram filters, they blow.
If you switch to synthetic, do not switch back and forth. Stick to the same brand. Check your manual and see what it says about the recommended oil change interval. If you do a lot of highway driving, then 4-5k is probably not bad at all. Doing a lot of stop and go short trips, you might want to change sooner. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:03:46 AM EDT
[#4]
stay away from the synthetic stuff, its not worth it and many manufacturers do not recommend it. If you are barelyat 71k and you have had oil changes every 3k you will be fine. Many times the synthetic stuff is so thin and viscuous it can actually cause more problems than it can fix. Oh and BTW, the guy was right when he said you really only need your oil change every 5k unless it is used under real tough conditions.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:03:48 AM EDT
[#5]
I offer this opinion,,,,,your doing Damn Good keep it like it is the only vehicles where I work that get a 3,000 mile oil change are Patrol vehicles because of idle time the rest are on 5,000 mile changes
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:06:06 AM EDT
[#6]
you are still good
dont worry about changing your oil every 3K mi--imo, its just a scam for the dealers and oil changers to get more business more frequently  car engines, in good working order and no oil leakes can go 6K+ before an oil change, w/ regular oil (i change mine at 5.5K) just check your oil level every-now-and-then to make sure that the level is ok and its still pretty clean hi-preformance engines or high wear, i would opt for synthetic, or per your engine/user manual (mobil 1 synthetic, per your user's manuals' weight), and they will last 10K+ |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:09:54 AM EDT
[#7]
I think the newer synthetics are good becaue they are thin and runny that way it will circulate faster throughout your engine on start-up, those are the toughest on the egine is start-up. Once the engine warms up the oil become thicker. Do Google on what the numbers "5W-50" that is stamped on what the oil container means. I would think you want to the lowest number on the first number which indicates flowabiltiy when the engine is cold, and the highest on the 2nd when the engine is hot. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:17:15 AM EDT
[#8]
Thanks for the feedback everyone! Appreciate it.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:20:05 AM EDT
[#9]
Myth. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:24:41 AM EDT
[#10]
+1 The manufacture's recommendation (who have an interest in your car NOT BREAKING) is what you shuld be following, NOT the recommendation of the oil change shop or the service peopel (who have an interest in making money off oil changes). The manufacturer's recommendation for my car (unless I live in the freakin' desert or do nothing but stop-go driving) is 10,000 miles between oil changes. Sometimes I stretcvh that to 11 or 12 - no problems so far. If someone tries to tell me that a modern car, under normal driving conditions, NEEDS an oil change every 3000 miles, I laugh in their face. Let me make a WILD guess here. The high mileage synthetic they are recommending is more expensive, right? 
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:27:29 AM EDT
[#11]
DK-Prof: I agree, it would be both a waste of money and oil to change the oil more frequently, barring unusual circumstances such as dusty conditions etc.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:35:07 AM EDT
[#12]
My 8 yo bmw takes a 9000 oil change recommendation. Longer if you drive it nicer.
I drive mine as hard as it can be driven. The computer takes that into account when it tells you to change the oil. Synthetic only. TXL |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:41:22 AM EDT
[#13]
I follow the manufacturers recommendation in the owners manual. The quick oil change places want to sell you everything so they can make money.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 11:56:34 AM EDT
[#14]
Yeah, stop taking your car to Jiffy Lube (or any other quick-lube place, for that matter) – The people that work there tend to be drooling idiots! The last time I took my pickup to a Valvoline quick-lube shop, I watched one of their "technicians" pour a fresh quart of oil in my engine before another "technician" had replaced the drain plug. Then, rather than add a quart to make up for what he just finished dumping on the floor, he just left it a quart low! There was a total of four "technicians" working there, and all four of them were total fools. The turnover at those places is huge, and they don't pay enough to keep competent, sober help. So, even if you get lucky one time with a "technician" who actually knows which end a ratchet to hold, chances are good that he'll be long gone by the time your next oil change rolls around. Quick lube shops – Avoid 'em at all costs!!!! 
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Posted: 3/15/2006 12:14:04 PM EDT
[#15]
I use good dino oil and factory filters, changed every 5000 miles. Never had an oil-related failure or problem. Ever.
Change your own oil, or take it to someone worth a damn. I wouldn't trust the twits working in Jiffy Lube to bag my groceries without messing something up. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 12:17:06 PM EDT
[#16]
05 Ford Mustang GT, Mobile 1 oil & filter (pricey, but hey), and 10 minutes in my driveway every 3000 miles. I'll continue this practice until I no longer own the car.
I'll report back in 15 years or so with my results. 
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Posted: 3/15/2006 12:39:35 PM EDT
[#17]
98 Plymouth Neon. While under warranty, I did the Mobil 1 oil and filter every 3000-5000 miles depending on the driving conditions. Now, at 100,000 miles, I run to 8,000-10,000 miles, and I check the oil condition by sending it off for analysis. When I drain it at 8,000-10,000 miles, the oil is still well within normal limits on viscosity, contamination, and additive package effectiveness. Wear metal content of the oil shows that the engine is still operating in almost brand-new condition, and when I had the cylinder head cover off at 80,000 to replace a spark plug tube seal, the interior looked brand new, including the cam lobes and other valvetrain components Jim |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 3:11:38 PM EDT
[#18]
1985 Toyota Truck, no model name, they called it the "Truck", oil changes with dino oil every 4K, mostly Castro 20W50
 Probably lasted 245K cause I did the oil changes myself vs. Jiffy Lube
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Posted: 3/15/2006 3:53:11 PM EDT
[#19]
I switched to the high mileage oil when my car started using oil at aroud 100K or so. After two changes it stopped losing oil between changes. I still use the stuff and now have 154K on the car.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 5:58:22 PM EDT
[#20]
If you don't have a real long commute and don't stop and go, you might want to consider changing near the low end of recommendations. You do need to get everything hot and keep it that way for a while to help cook the water, etc out. starting and stopping is worth going a little shorter, again that's rougher than normal conditions.
Like DK said Jiffy et al are in business to get your money. But you want to take care of things, too. Some of the synthetic claims werere really wild, 60k between changes, etc. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:12:17 PM EDT
[#21]
You got it all wrong people like myself who is a master technician that owns a repair shop and has probably forgot more about cars than you will ever know. We love people like you it is what keeps us in business. News flash you have no idea what the hell your even talking about. By all means keep spreading your stupidity it just means more business for me. 
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:21:34 PM EDT
[#22]
The very best way to positively determine the right oil change interval for your vehicle is to have a sample sent out to an oil analysis facility like Blackstone Labs.
The can tell you exactly how much viscosity is left, percentage of remaining additives and any contaminants that may be in there. Blackstone only charges about $18 or $19 for the analysis. Worth every penny. Another thing, it's not just a function of mileage on your changes - it's also a time factor. If you drive only 2000 miles in a single year you better be changing your oil more than once. Bottom line - the oil analysis is the best way to be sure. CMOS |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:24:47 PM EDT
[#23]
 <--- that is me, laughing in your face. (I accept that you know a lot more about cars than I do, but I refuse to believe that the person who makes money of selling me oil changes as often as possible is MORE credible in telling me when my oil needs to be changed than the car manufacturer, who wants me to buy another car from them in the future and doesn't make a penny off oil changes). |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:26:17 PM EDT
[#24]
+1 on Blackstone. My Tacoma runs Mobil 1 extended drain syn and filter. At 8500mi oil change interval the oil/additive/detergent/viscosity and metal levels were all in spec. Since I drive around 16-18k miles a year I only have to change it twice.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:28:41 PM EDT
[#25]
High mileage oil is usually just heavier oil - good for higher mileage engines with engine wear.
Don't swich to synthetic after years of standard. It is generally thinner and doesn't do well with worn in engines. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:33:22 PM EDT
[#26]
My 2003 KIA Spectra has 112,000+ miles on it. Most of them are 60 mile interstate runs to work and 60 back home. I change the oil at 5000 mile increments. It has hardly changed color at 5000 miles.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:35:06 PM EDT
[#27]
"but I refuse to believe that the person who makes money of selling me oil changes as often as possible is MORE credible in telling me when my oil needs to be changed than the car manufacturer"
We don't really make very much money on an oil change... The point is to have you as a repeat customer so when something big happens.. You will come to us for the repair... And to the people who think that the car MFG's are the last word, all knowing about there car... Try working on a modern car... I have seen more stupid shit come out of the factory then I even care to think about.... ASE master tech |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:37:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Remember that the oil is recommended for high miles, not the filter.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:41:18 PM EDT
[#29]
Shhhh let the morons laugh in our face cause you and I both know who will be laughing all the way to the bank in the end.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:41:40 PM EDT
[#30]
I always ask for the Oil made from Dead Dinosaurs.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:54:01 PM EDT
[#31]
The only difference between 'High Mileage' oils and regular oils is more attitive package. More additive package means less room for actual oil molecules. For the record, oil doesn't typically fail, the additive package does. The viscosity modifiers can wear out, the detergent can run out of carrying capacity, etc...
I use the high mileage stuff in my '94 GMC, and typically change the oil a little before 3,000. The main reason is that I get a lot of blow by, and the oil fouls quickly. The cheapest way to keep it going longer is to keep the oil fresh. You should change your oil a short time before it fails. How long this is depends on your driving, your roads, your engine's internal condition, and your weather. Synthetic oils are excellent, but can be completely unnecessary for your application, again this depends on the factors above. Keep in mind that some manufactures mask engine design problems by mandating synthetic. An engine with 'hot spots' will be prone to sludging and synthetic is more resistant to sludge. THE BEST thing to do, is have an oil pressure guage, and observe what happens with various weights of oil. My truck when warm and at idle posts a difference of about 10 psi (40 vs 30) when using 10W30 vs 5W30 castrol GTX HM. Hundreds of millions of dollars have been poured into the organic chemistry of oil. The additive packages are perfected so don't go fucking it up with extra additives (pro-long, slick 50, etc...). Interestingly, how multi weight is achieved is by adding a long type of coiled molecule in the additve package that uncoils as it heats up. Thus, the warmer the oil gets, the more entangled these molecules get, and the thicker the oil acts. Obviously, these things have a life span, and they will start to break over time and become ineffective. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 7:00:15 PM EDT
[#32]
Dude, change your own oil and do it every 3 thousand miles. I have heard way to many horror stories about these quick change places. Oil is the lifeblood of your engine. Make sure it is done right.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 7:01:34 PM EDT
[#33]
It doesn't get more viscous when it warms up. The viscosity decreases less severely with increasing temperature. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 8:00:25 PM EDT
[#34]
Yeah - I guess this moron with over 110,000 miles on his current car with no problems must be doing something absolutely terribly wrong, and surely will learn my lesson after all those expensive repairs I never had. I wish I had learned my lesson after selling my last car, which had over 150,000 miles, with no problems and no major repairs, and worked perfectly when I sold it. Boy, I sure wish I had spent tons of more money on all those unecessary oil changes. That would have taught me a lesson for sure.  Seems like I've been the one laughing all the way to the bank, because I haven't been flushing money down the toilet like all the gullible suckers who buy the "every 3000 miles" lie that oil change places are still telling people. I'm not trying to attack you personally. I'm sure you know a lot more about cars than I do, but unfortunately I've also met a lot of "Master Tech" and super-mechanics who are the most dishonest thieving scumbags in the world - and have had no problem looking me straight in the eye and telling me outrageous lies, just to convince me of completely unecessary "repairs". So while I have no doubt that YOU are honest, the label itself doesn't particularly impress me. FWIW - I do all of the preventive maintenance on my car (belts, water pumps, etc - I just don't feel like wasting money on unecessary oil changes, that's all) ETA: HOWEVER, if and when something breaks on any of my cars, I will make a point to ask the mechanic if it could have been prevented by changing my motor oil more often. If the answer is yes, I will email you with an abject and humble apology (and post one here). Fair enough? |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:04:40 PM EDT
[#35]
Sure and while your at it go blow smoke up somebody elses ass!
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:18:09 PM EDT
[#36]
I change my oil every 7,000 or so.
I've owned 15 cars, never had 1 single engine problem EVER. Not one that involved the innards. Changing oil at 3,000 or spending $5 per quart for a fancy syn. oil is in my experience a big waste of time and money. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:20:09 PM EDT
[#37]
What? Are you saying I am lying? That I haven't owned cars that have consistently gone over 100K without major repairs? Or that I haven't been lied to by mechanics, who told me I needed repairs that turned out to be total B.S.? Why would I do that?  I understand why mechanics would LIE - because they make money off it. But what exactly is my reason to lie in this thread?  Perhaps you can explain to me what my reason is to lie in this thread? |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:22:31 PM EDT
[#38]
What's wrong with Fram filters?
My Sentra only went 240,000 miles, and I used Fram filters from 60,000 miles on. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:24:49 PM EDT
[#39]
Liar !!! Complete nonsense - you're obviously just blowing smoke up everyone's asses, and HunterCO is laughing all the way to the bank because of how stupid you are - and all the repairs you're not telling us about.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:26:14 PM EDT
[#40]
My '96 Pathfinder with 165K on it gets the high mileage oil every 5000 miles.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:32:38 PM EDT
[#41]
While I also concur that the Quick lube places should be avoided because there are idiots that work there....
My dad recently took his 02' Ford into the Ford dealer for an oil change... He took the pickup home and got up the next morning to go to work, he noticed oil under the truck. So after climbing under it he realized it was dripping off the drain plug because it was just barely screwed on! Just remember There are idiots everywhere. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:41:00 PM EDT
[#42]
He's a university professor. That's what he's paid to do. Jim |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:41:21 PM EDT
[#43]
i have to say this and i dont know whether i will get flames about it or not but its proven
Cem-peco is great oil, and i recently attendded some kind of oil seminar and the guy (no relations with CEM-peco) stood up at the beggining and said i ahve a question! i am gonna call some brands out loud and i want you to raise a hand if you use it, to make a long story short he got to CEM-PECO and me and a guy from the shop raised out hands, he was astonished we were the only ones, he then went on to say there have been tests that show synthetic oil actually in some cases is not as healthy for your engine, he went into great detail which i couldnt understand anyway but he said that cempeco will out last, out lubricate any oil on the market today, as i also thought synthetic was the way to go basically he claimed synthetic oil actualy deteriates some materials, and leaves setiments or something like that he said if you watched the tests you would all run cempeco, he said in everytest its thermo barrier is well beyond any else and also it holds its viscosity twice as long as any other do, needless to say a long post short i reccomend cempeco although hard to get in quarts its well worth the hassle, and you definatly notice a difference in performance and also when you change you oil its like its right out of the mottle, its not all thinned out and nasty like most oils after a longer period of time just my $.02 |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:44:53 PM EDT
[#44]
I'll tell the MBA students that they need to come back every five years for more Executive Education, or their careers will explode. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:51:28 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:54:29 PM EDT
[#46]
A lot of manufacturers (especially GM owned companies) are recommending 5W-XX motor oils, as well as oil changes every 15k miles. my personal opinion on that (as well the mechanics at a couple of GM dealerships i've talked to) is they are recommending the lighter oils to help increase gas mileage (every little bit helps when the average MPG of your companies entire lineup has to be around 25mpg or you take a big tax hit, dont remember the exact figure), and changes every 15k miles so that the engines will go out sooner, i.e. more likely to spend big dollars at dealerships to maintain the vehicle, or even better, buy a new car sooner.
for example, it took me 45 minutes to change out the waterpump on my 1988 saab 900, and it lasted over 125k miles. the waterpumps on the 1999-2002 saab 9-5's are DESIGNED to fail at 50,000, and the book time to change them out is 6 hours. my experience has been that it's that way with a lot of new cars. old cars forever! |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:54:52 PM EDT
[#47]
You had cars go over 100K big fucking deal then you traded them and the next poor asshlole got stuck with a piece of shit you never took care of. You want a fucking medal for that? Yes not some but many techs are crooked assholes I will never argue that. Many car owners are jack offs that don't take care of there shit because they bank on trading it off and some poor person who could not afford anything else gets stuck with it. So take your 10K oil change and shove it up your ass I do this for a living and know what reality is. I don't make jack shit off an oil change I do it because I want my customers cars to last. Most of them are not jerk offs that can say fuck it and ride it into the dirt and then trade it in. Then afterwords come brag about how they never changed their oil for 10-12K. You in short have no idea what the hell your talkin about and indirectley you fuck people with your ignorance. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:04:02 PM EDT
[#48]
This is about one step from the pit. Ok jack off explain oil viscosity and how it works? I don't want some dumb ass answer I want molecular explanations of the polymers. Next explain the difference between synthetic and standard oil I will give you a hint they both come from crude. Let sunday school begin and most importantly show how a college degree don't mean shit! |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:05:14 PM EDT
[#49]
GM reccomends Mobil 1 synthetic in my car and the car's computer calculates when to change the oil. It doesnt go by by mileage alone but takes many factors into account, temps, rpms, speeds, time, mileage and more.
They designed the algorithm with a fudge factor and while I havent had my car long enough to need an oil change, other C5 owners say it will go up to 10,000 miles between changes depending on driving style. I consistently took my Firebirds 7,000+ miles between changes with Castrol Syntex. When my first Trans Am rusted apart, the motor, with 160,000 miles, went into a truck. I wouldnt run dino oil that far. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 10:05:15 PM EDT
[#50]
Has anyone had problems with getting oil analized at blackstone labs?
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