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Posted: 2/3/2006 6:19:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/3/2006 6:29:01 AM EDT by echo6]
I've got a section of fence I'm going to be replacing next week. The run I need to repair is 162' of 8' high chain link. With the exception of a 18 in section at the end that ties into a building, its a straight run.

I'm going to be reusing the existing chain link, as it is still in great shape. What I plan on replacing is 10 support poles, most of the top rail and barbed wire, and one corner pole.

Anyone have any "pearls" for me? I've put in wooden fencing (and strung my fair share of concertina wire too )but I've never done chain link.

Jack of all master of none,
echo6
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 6:19:33 AM EDT
tag
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 7:27:13 AM EDT

Originally Posted By krpind:
tag

Link Posted: 2/3/2006 7:34:37 AM EDT
slumlord must know something about this...his housing is surrounded by it.
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 7:51:12 AM EDT
Have 1shott ask Jimmy, he'll know.
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 9:59:27 AM EDT
I have put in and replaced chain link fencing. It is not hard at all, but having at least two people makes it go easier especially when you are placing the fabric (fencing). It also helps to have a fence puller like a small come-a-long and a stretcher that attaches to the come-a-long and then to the fencing itself. Pull it tight and then start placing the wire ties. A good pair of pliers helps too.

If you can find one of those do it yourself fence supply places they should have everything. Where it gets real tricky is when you have fencing going up an uneven grade, but that does not apply to you so it should be super easy. Just make sure the fencing is nice and tight before you start placing the ties on the poles and top rail.
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 1:30:11 PM EDT
If I read you right you are going to be replacing several support poles. If these were installed according to any specification they will be 24-36" minimum in the ground depending on the frost depth in your area and with a 12-18" diameter full depth chunk of concrete for a anchor, 24" for corner and pull posts. More if these are installed akin to a military security fence.
You need to find a reliable bumper jack to pull the posts and then may have to partially dig them out. Most 4X4's can't get enough traction to pull sideways, they need to come out vertical. Alternative is to cut off flush with the ground and dig new holes trying to maintain the 10' spacing between posts. Plumb the posts in the holes and allow the concrete 7 days to cure and develop enough strength to resist the pressures of tensioning the fence fabric.
8' fabric is a bear to hang by yourself, need at least 2 friends that will stay out of the beer long enough to stand it up and tension. Make sure the fence was not cut and spliced previously or make sure the existion splice falls at a post. There are also 2 schools of thougt on where the twisted wire should go, up or down. It should go down if you add a tension wire woven into the bottom of the fabric and adds a little extra to stop burrowing critters. If you put barb wire on the top on the outrigger arms you will need a good method of securing the arm to the post. Most use power driven studs which means if they were used on your posts theoutriggers will most likely have to be replaced.
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