Posted: 2/6/2005 7:32:16 PM EDT
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In regards to my tiling the bathroom thread... How does one replace the toilet? I udnerstand the basics, turn off water, remove bolts and pull toilet out, but how does the toilet go back in? I'm mainly curious as to how the toilet drain attaches to the floor. What type of seal is used? Does the toilet somehow screw onto the floor drain or what? Thats my biggest hang up, is how the toilet drains.....I have no clue how it works. Thanks |
Any decent hardware store will have one. The Lowes site has a how to do it yourself section that you can print out. Step by step and the materials and parts that you will need. Also dont take a whiff of the hole when you see it! |
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Yep they sell them. 1.Slide the two bolts to where they are the same distance off the back wall 2. Scrape off old ring 3. Place flat side of ring around the opening on the toilet 4. Lift toilet, hover over the flange on the floor 5. Lower toilet slowly to where the bolts come through the holes in the toilet 5. Set toilet down on the flange evenly 6. Gently and evenly press straight down on the toilet 7. Place washers and nuts on bolt threads 8. SNUG the nuts down 9. Sit down softly on the toilet to set the wax 10. Tighten nuts |
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lowes or home depot also sells a full rubber gasket type instead of a wax ring. Also btw, I had a problem after tileing my floor. The replaced it, but because of the height change, and that it doesn't seal to the floor, it eventually leaks. Make sure you get the shims for the toilet so it doesn't rock, front to back or side to side. Put the shims in first then put the toilet down. If you try to shim it after it is down, it will leak. |
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Only problem I ran into was the new one didn't fit - the drain is closer to the wall than it should be, and the new toilet had a longer dimension from the drain center to the back! Back down to Home Depot with the ruler, measuring toilets to make sure the next one fit ... +1 on doubling the ring for the added height if you've just put in a tile floor. |
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They make one about an inch thicker just for tile floor jobs. I also forgot to mention, make sure you get the alignment right. I can't tell, but the wife can feel it sitting down, that the toilet is off, pointing in a direction instead of straight on like it used to be. |
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Word of caution.... If you take more than one day to do the replacement, and you have the hole covered (and believe me, you'll WANT to!), make sure you have a can of Raid and a bucket of water standing by when you uncover the hole. Raid to keep the critter's heads down for a bit, and the water to wash them down the hole so they won't come visit while you're replacing the toilet. Trust me on this. Both times I've done this, I've been grateful to have thought ahead. VERY grateful. 
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A snake came up through the toilet at my grandparents' farm. Scared the crap out of my grandmother. 
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What in the world came out of the toilet? |
And, that's why I don't give a damn, or I glare back, when someone in a store "looks at me" for opening a package before I buy it. Unless something is sealed such that tampering would be obvious, I check it. Tough to those who don't like it. (Rant over) Not menaing to hijack the thread, just an object lesson. The advice in the thread is right on. It's an easy but nasty job. And cheap, I might add, if you do it yourself. |
This info might be late, but I used one of these: and it has worked great. A big advantage is that you don't need to get the toilet on perfectly on the first try. www.fluidmaster.com/connect_products_7500.html ETA: my flange didn't look anywhere NEAR that nice. My flange was welded/soldered/cast in once piece (couldn't tell which) with the drain pipe and was rusted into a brown powdery mess, so I ended up cutting off the pipe, putting in a length of PVC and a neoprene coupling, and a new flange. I'll call a plumber next time. |
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Hire a plumber. I had a new old-man-height elongated Kohler installed a few weeks ago. Turns out he ran into some "minor" adjustment issues like having to saw off some of the mounting bolt length to fit the new crapper in. Heavy bugger too...not for an old fart like me with a bad back. Charge me about $135.00. Considering the time it took the two of them to accomplsh the job and they had all the right tools and the knowledge...it was a good deal. 
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Not the toilet itself, but the pipe it sits on. Roaches. LOTS of roaches. BIG ones. With Babies.
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I tiled both my bathrooms some years ago... before they had (or I knew of) the rubber gaskets. At that time, I used a special wax ring with plastic "spout thingy" and extra thickness, designed especially for tile jobs. You'll find them easily at Lowes or Home Depot. You'll also need (in all likelihood) longer than normal bolts, so get the ones that are long with "snap off scores", or do what I did and just dremel off the excess after putting the nuts on. I had some trouble removing the old bolts and the flange cracked on one of them, but not to worry, they sell flange-repair plates. In addition to the bolts and wax ring, I put some "strings" of plumbers putty on the outer bottom edge of the toilet so that once you have it snugged up, you just scrape away the excess and its sealed on the outside edge too. Good Luck! If you can lay tile and grout, you can do this. ETA: be prepared with a torch... I had to melt some excess solder to remove the old bolts from the flange and make room for the new bolts. Do this and prep the flange, maybe even test fit everything except the new wax ring with some loose tiles under the toilet before you actually begin tiling... sucks to do that nasty work on your fresh tile job. |
How the hell did roaches survive in your drain pipes? Do you have a broken pipe under the house that they are crawling in? Seems they'd suffocate in there or get washed out into the sewer/septic tank. I would scream like a girl if roaches started boiling out of my plumbing! |