Posted: 11/8/2004 8:10:35 PM EDT
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Got a real nice hearth and fireplace in my new apartment, but it's come to my notice that the previous (undocumented worker) tennants found it cheaper to burn anthracite coal in the fireplace instead of paying for heating oil. They were nice enough to leave us a bucketful which I consider mighty neighborly of them, especially after the 4 or so buckets of ash I shoveled out of the trap for them. Anyone know if extended burning of coal in a standard fireplace setup will damage anything permanently? The landlord won't maintain, it'd be on my dime. I'm willing to spring for a cleaning and inspection, but if there is reason to expect damage or excessive $$ to get the thing back online, the girlfriend can videotape the damn yule log off the TV on Christmas and make do. |
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Fellow Staff member Sweep is a professional regarding such things. I obtained this site from him, but don't know if it would have what you seek: www.chimneys.com/ You might IM him, but this is his busy season, so he's not on here much. Be careful! 
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It is always wise to have an unknown chimney inspected. Always. Coal is like any other fuel. It produces heat. Too much heat can crack tile liners and weaken cement blocks and red brick. Chimney fires are the main cause of cracked liners, etc. As far as I know, wood produces way more creosote and other flue clogging/chimney fire inducing crud than coal. Oh, and did I say that it is always wise to have an unknown chimney inspected? |
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The main concern I would have about repeated and prolonged burning of coal in a standard fire box would have to do with the heat involved. Coal is going to burn conciderably hotter than wood. If your fire box is constructed correctly, this isn't much of an issue, but some masons cut corners on fire boxes. Fire clay should be used instead of standard mortar for the mortar joints. If your mortar joints are more than 1/4" thick you probably have regular masons mortar, which is not as resistant to intense heat. This aplies only to the fire box. Once your into the throat and flue regular mortar is fine. Also, to save a few pennies some masons will use small pieces of the fire brick (left-overs from cuttings) to fill in the corners. I have seen some corner pieces that were not even full thickness, let alone the fact that they did not properly overlap the preceeding course. Taking a ball peen hammer and tapping the corners (tapping, not whacking) should reveal any loose or weakened fire brick. You can scrub the fire box yourself with a steel brush before you do the inspecting, but you will get awfully dirty. Hire a sweep if you can, and then check for the things I pointed out. Cracked mortar joints are a definate bad sign, and a visit from a local mason would be a good idea if you find any. |
