Posted: 5/23/2001 4:05:41 PM EDT
| So far, my post-ban Bushmaster AR-15 has proven very reliable for plinking and target shootings. In my opinion it is a very reliable gun. How reliable is it under combat conditions? I would like to hear how it handles in combat, so I would like to hear opinions from military personnel and anyone else who has used it in combat or similar conditions. I would like to know myself what the major differences between combat conditions and just plinking as far as rifle reliability is concerned. |
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Well, I've never been in combat, but I HAVE seen a lot on TV. The longest I've been in the field was for a month in South America. We were chasing Dutch Marines around the island the whole time and shooting blanks. I had no stoppages or malfunctions the whole time in the field. Usually with blanks, you will experience a LOT more reliability problems. Keep it clean, well lubricated, keep the ejection port cover (dust cover) closed and you wont have any problems. |
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The M-16 gets a bad name from the first batch they sent over to Nam. The first M-16s did not have a chrome lined chamber. The humid jungle conditions would sometimes rust the chamber and cause many malfunctions. Not to mention that when troops got the weapons, they were told they were "self cleaning." I still dont understand that one. After the military fixed those problems, there hasn't been too many problems since. |
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If you feed it clean, military ammo, and clean and lubricate it exactly per the operator's manual, TM9-1005-319-10, you can bet your life on it. I've been doing so for over 34 years. If you clean with solvents or use any lube other than CLP, LSA, or LAW (in the winter) all bets are off. RBC is OK in an emergency, but you'll have to pay extra attention to lubrication. If you take the rifle out of the rack and don't need a rag to wipe off a bit of CLP weeping from the pin holes it's under lubed. The dash-10 is available at http://old.ar15.com in the books section. -- Chuck |
| So the rifle doesn't jam much if you take care of it. After how many rounds does it need to be cleaned? If kept clean, will in work in sandy areas, and keep shooting if some sand gets in, or is it hard to even get sand in? I know the rifle can take abuse and still shoot, I've seen it done with my friends rifle. |
| I forgot to ask, how clean is clean enough? Do you have to scrape the carbon out of every nook and cranny? I take it you just need to clean the bolt and carrier, along with the rails, and the barrel of course. What is considered clean ammo? Is S&B clean, what about Wolf? If these aren't that clean, where can I get military grade ammo? |
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Quoted: If you feed it clean, military ammo, and clean and lubricate it exactly per the operator's manual, TM9-1005-319-10, you can bet your life on it. I've been doing so for over 34 years. If you clean with solvents or use any lube other than CLP, LSA, or LAW (in the winter) all bets are off. RBC is OK in an emergency, but you'll have to pay extra attention to lubrication. If you take the rifle out of the rack and don't need a rag to wipe off a bit of CLP weeping from the pin holes it's under lubed. The dash-10 is available at http://old.ar15.com in the books section. -- Chuck So is Hoppe's not a good idea? I didn't think CLP would get out the copper fouling. The last couple of times I went to the range everyone that used my AR had an oil spot on their shoulder and you couldn't shoot it without glasses because the oil would spray you in the eyes. I know - too much oil! [:|] |
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Quoted: I forgot to ask, how clean is clean enough? Do you have to scrape the carbon out of every nook and cranny? I take it you just need to clean the bolt and carrier, along with the rails, and the barrel of course. What is considered clean ammo? Is S&B clean, what about Wolf? If these aren't that clean, where can I get military grade ammo? Your weapon can NEVER be clean enough. If you keep your rifle out of the dirt, it should go for about 1000 rounds without cleaning before it becomes a problem. Depends on the ammo. In sandy areas, as I said, keep the dust cover closed and a magazine inserted. That should help keep most of the sand out. The only part you really have to "scrape" carbon off is on the "tail" end (not sure what you call it) of the bolt. I'd say after about 500 rounds it is absolutely necessary. The weapon will function ok with a little bit of sand in it, but not much. The major parts are inside the upper receiver, chamber area (pain in the ass), barrel, bolt and bolt carrier. Those are the important parts. Don't neglect the other parts though! Wolf ammo is some dirty shit. Keep it away from your AR. Go for Q3131A. S&B seems ok. For military surplus ammo, try - [url]www.ammoman.com[/url] [url]www.cole-distributing.com[/url] There are other places, I just cant think of them now. Bottom line - TAKE CARE OF YOUR WEAPON AND IT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU!!!! |
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Go with Chucks blurb - but keep in mind the Army is pretty F*cking Anal about cleanliness - you can see (on course) troops showering with theirs and using all stupid stuff like hand cleaner (really dries the gun out) to get it (quite literally) sparkling clean. I gone more than 5000rds of C77 (SS109) w/o a cleaning - the action stated getting real slow on auto - but (and this is not a recomondation) I squeezed some CLP in around the bolt and it kept firing - (did create a real nasty carbon stew inside the entire gun though) |
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is my rifle gonna start jamming????? "not before you eat the peanuts outta my shiiiiiiit" AR rifles are VERY VERY reliable and any condition if ya take care of it......and i'm not saying that u gotta be obsessive...just follow the regular procedure and it will keep firing and firing and firing and firing and firing just as death by ar said "take care of yer friend and he'll take care of you" hunter out |