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I’ve wanted to try one of those just to see if I could make a functional final product. It was more intriguing at $30 though, especially considering the relatively low chance of success in my hands.
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I have a corral full of $30 poverty ponies somewhere here.
That's spooky enough I don't need them to be ghostly. |
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Quoted: On weekends I like to watch all the car and truck shows. Anyway I have watched several where body men were making panel repairs using new " glues " instead of welding. Glueing new panels and patches in. They claim some of these new products are unbelievably strong and an honest substitute for welding. I don't know but seems like a good thing to check on and maybe have in the garage. View Quote I are autobody guy. Yes and no on the glue. Structural adhesive/panel bond is what you’re referring to. I wouldn’t waste my time with it on something like this |
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View Quote That's actually pretty cool. I especially like the beer cap scope knobs. |
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View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I'm an engineer... and I would if it were designed right. No reason it couldn't be made stronger than a forged aluminum upper if it used something like 17-4PH plate... I just think the post apocalyptic look of a matching upper/handguard would be cool. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/146014/20180609_144326-1023362.jpg How's my PK-A holding up? Thread needs more pics: |
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View Quote Now that's just fuckin' amazing! |
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Quoted: How many shots is a glued together plastic lower going to last before the end falls off? edit oh it's a glued together metal lower? Hee hee i guess glue is used in aircraft. I bet red loctite or something would hold it together View Quote Think of it more like a laminated lower. With a good two part epoxy, and all that surface area, it would be plenty strong enough. |
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Quoted: More or less, but some method is needed to get all of the parts located. Just a tiny fore aft misalignment screws up pin alignment enough to cause a headache. An upper receiver could be used to locate takedown pins and the buffer tube nut, for example. In going to bet that most stick them together and hope it works out. . View Quote Couldn’t you use the takedown pin holes to line up the pieces? |
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All the newer Corvette chassis’ are glued together...not 100% but a substantial percent!
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Quoted: Couldn’t you use the takedown pin holes to line up the pieces? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: More or less, but some method is needed to get all of the parts located. Just a tiny fore aft misalignment screws up pin alignment enough to cause a headache. An upper receiver could be used to locate takedown pins and the buffer tube nut, for example. In going to bet that most stick them together and hope it works out. . Couldn’t you use the takedown pin holes to line up the pieces? I am sure the holes in the sides are on size and on location. Just get some proper sized steel dowels and put them in place. Nothing easier. Everything should line up automatically. I wouldn't use the takedown pin holes or not use them exclusively. |
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I already have a MIG welder, but this little toy has caught my eye. Much cleaner welds with less heat distortion. I have played with it's bigger brothers in automation, but this opens up a lot of possibilities looking at de-milled stuff or kits.
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Quoted: But wait. Cant you just... Oh youuuuuuu! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Quoted: I have plenty ARs. I'm wanting to build other stuff. I'm looking at that M-11 flat, but I don't see how to add it to cart or actually buy it. I don't have a Mac upper but I'll work on that later. View Quote Email him, you have use Cash app/Vemio, send him your user name on the app, mailing address, he will email you back to confirm. His site was "De-Banked", to every "Just Build your own Bank" people, please eat a buffet of dicks. |
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Quoted: Biden has said all AR15 type rifles and magazines need to be made illegal. People need to figure out if down the road they would say "Shit, I should have bought that when I had the chance." View Quote Well Patriots have said All Biden type politicians and voters need to be made illegal...So, there is that. |
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View Quote What....What am I looking at? |
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Quoted: @1Andy2 Bolt Together? "sell resin cores for lost resin investment casting" Explain, tell me more. View Quote Ruger used this process to make their metal P-series pistols Link |
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Quoted: @1Andy2 Bolt Together? "sell resin cores for lost resin investment casting" Explain, tell me more. View Quote Two different ideas. The first is one made from flat aluminum plates. With holes drilled and tapped to fasten it together with socket head cap screws. A guy with a cnc wood router could machine those in a single setup, one tool change (changeover from router bit to drill bit). The second idea is just lost wax/resin/plastic investment casting. In olden days, it meant machining or sculpting a pattern out of wax, then packing in a flask with sand, and pouring molten aluminum into. The metal melts and replaces the pattern as it is "invested" into the flask. These days, people do it with 3d printers to make really complicated shapes. However.... you could use your 3d printer or CNC machine to make a "master" pattern. This pattern will be used to make flexible silicone mold halves from which you can cast an easy room temp material like resin. The resin patterns would then be what you used to investment cast your aluminum pieces. I don't know how well it would work in practice. Might be alot of lost resolution along the way. Also, hard to accurately oversize the patterns to account for shrinkage when you're dealing with who knows what aluminum alloy. I don't think you could get good enough resolution that way to cast the threads, either. So you'd probably want to just use it to make somewhat solid castings that you then finished with minimal handwork (reaming out holes, hand tapping, etc) |
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In college i invested sprued plastic into plaster and made lost plastic molds
no need to rubber mold your 3d parts just burn them out the blue plastic lower was made from glued up cuttingboards and laser printed cad drawings were applied as guides |
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Quoted: In college i invested sprued plastic into plaster and made lost plastic molds no need to rubber mold your 3d parts just burn them out the blue plastic lower was made from glued up cuttingboards and laser printed cad drawings were applied as guides View Quote The rubber mold step was for quickly making lots of additional ones. It would take forever to use the 3d printer to make each and every AR lower pattern from scratch. eta: NM, I see what you mean. Yeah, that would work. eta: Actually, I don't see what you mean... that sounds like you'd lose the pattern for each and every one you wanted to cast, requiring a new 3d printed part for each subsequent casting. |
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Quoted: I already have a MIG welder, but this little toy has caught my eye. Much cleaner welds with less heat distortion. I have played with it's bigger brothers in automation, but this opens up a lot of possibilities looking at de-milled stuff or kits. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/374309/Laser_Welder_jpg-1914874.JPG View Quote $17,500 is the base priceWire feed is $1,840 Set of nozzles is $120 |
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View Quote How much would it cost to make such a kit for the private market? I assume very costly? |
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Quoted: The only part you need to cast is the buffer tube mount the rest is all plate built in some instances of ar lower https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/3097/55CF45CF-5D69-42B3-A3B6-9958BB264A78-1915282.gif https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/3097/ECEF75E7-10C4-4507-AFDD-5DD27EB9AC53-1915279.jpg View Quote Very cool. Looks like you could do the buffer tube mount on a 3 axis mill, too but it would take 3 setups to do it. Do you know if they cast the threads and cleaned them up with a tap or just cast an undersized hole that they then drilled out, reamed, and tapped? |
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Quoted: It's missing a hole then That's what she said? |
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Quoted: ...That might be the dumbest, gayest, most backwards retarded thing I have heard anyone say. That is like saying "No thanks I would not wanna motorboat Christiana Hendricks". Its just not a valid statement because its just not true. View Quote It’s a bag of smashed assholes and probably won’t work. It might be the most sensible thing I’ll read on Arfcom all day. |
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Quoted: The only part you need to cast is the buffer tube mount the rest is all plate built in some instances of ar lower https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/3097/55CF45CF-5D69-42B3-A3B6-9958BB264A78-1915282.gif https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/3097/ECEF75E7-10C4-4507-AFDD-5DD27EB9AC53-1915279.jpg View Quote Wait, Why the Fuck isnt he/anyone selling this? |
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Quoted: Ok, screw the flat. Is that 3d printed or something? Please say there is a tutorial for that lower if it is and what 3d printer to get. ETA: is that an ar fcg or something? View Quote That's the SVTR, there's also a version called the mac daddy that takes glock magazines, and AWCY is currently in beta testing for the db9 which is based off of the mac daddy. All 3 use a AR fire control group and about $12-$15 worth of printer fillament. The Ender 3 is what most people recommend for a budget printer and they're around $200-$250. Head on over to the 3d printing forum and check it out if your interested. @trigg12k |
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Quoted: How much would it cost to make such a kit for the private market? I assume very costly? View Quote You can get into it cheap. Amazon home foundry set up. Mold kit |
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