If you pass through Matagalpa I'll buy you a beer.

Subbed for potential

I might just do that. Last time I went over to Leon and out to Ometepe. This time I may just ride through the center but avoid Managua.

Edit: I never really have a strong plan while touring. I like using a paper map and just picking a direction that morning and seeing where I get.

Edit #2 pic of Ometepe

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Just about got the bike’s carb tuned. You can see a new exhaust on there and a close look will show some dead weight removed. I have cut probably 20 pounds from the bike just from this. Of course I will add some back in bash plate, racks, and bigger tank.

But what an awesome day.

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Are you taking extra jets or do you not think the high altitudes will effect it?

Absolutely taking extra jets. Swapping them out is ten minutes max including removing the seat and tank.

ETA: I have had a KLR from sea level to 9500 without any real issues, just a very slight loss in power. But this time I will be going higher so jets will be a good idea.

Cool, not like they take up a lot of space.

Correct no space at all. I actually don’t even have to remove the tank and saddle I can just do about ten thousand rotations with an Allen wrench. Or I could take along a little ratchet I have designed for tiny bits. That would make the job a breeze. That and a bent screwdriver.

Your plan sounds intriguing, but I've been to Peru and Ecuador (not motorcycling), and even under the best circumstances, there were many places I didn't feel safe. I suspect that with Covid raging down there, things have become MUCH worse. There are a bazillion great places to ride in the States, and I would be more inclined to plan a trip like that or even Europe.

BTW, I motored through Eastern WV. two weeks ago with the intention of checking out your distillery, but sprang a coolant leak on my bike and turned around and made my way back home (I'm in MD.). I guess you have to anticipate things like this when you are riding a 2007 FJR1300 with 96K!

Found the leaking hose and may try again at a later date.

You're going to get deaded by the Mexican cartels and MS 13 in Central America

First post I have seen where dibs on guns is a legit proposition.

Good luck. Enjoy your ride. Take clean underwear, you will have to drink water sometime.

Well since I have already ridden through Mexico and Central America before, I have already died. So nothing to worry about this time.

I envy you OP. I would love to go but it just won't fit in my plans right now. I did trade my Harley
in and got this a month ago. I still need to add crash bars and a better skid plate. But I love this bike
half the weight of the Harley with nearly the same power. Carries my Wife and I at HW speeds with
no problem.

I hope to have some Adventures closer to home until I retire.

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You have time to think about it. If not now then when? None of us are getting younger.

You have time to think about it. If not now then when? None of us are getting younger.

Very interested. 56 and retired here. 2008 KLR with 40k miles on it (all from me) and former mechanic. This is the sort of thing I would love to do. Have also rode a bit of the SEAT and hiked a couple hundred miles on the AT.
Would like to talk to you about it sometime and since it is a year away possibly meet up and ride a bit on either the SEAT or TAT so we could both get an idea if it would work.

I'll post the updates/maps to the ARFCOM thread while you guys are on the road.

Alright, the first interested party! I love me some KLR and know them well having had three. I am all about meeting up this spring and summer. The worst thing that could happen would be we have a good time.

A lot can happen in a year. But this is the first step fellows, just saying "I would consider doing that". Who knows what can happen in twelve months, that's life. But for today, I am leaving for Ushuaia in a year.

Word of warning from someone that travels to Central and South America a good bit...you are a target in Mexico and Northern parts of Belize.  And trust me, it's more the cops that will shake you down than the locals.  Ride safe and ride in groups.

I appreciate it, sincerely. However, you would be surprised how much motorcyclist can get away with. I am no stranger to Central America having travelled there as well as owning property and briefly living there.

My ride will be away from most tourist traps and major cities, which is where lots of that scrap happens. I can't say we won't get shaken down as I have had that happen in a car before. But you just have to roll with the adventure at times.

So how about it Red_5? Assuming we aren't in a ground war next week are you going for another trip? A quick shot down and ship the bikes bike. Well, for me at least.

Didn't some guy do this a few years back and they found his murdered body and bike buried next to the road?

Yea. But as discussed earlier he made a lot of mistakes that a smart person wouldn't do anywhere. First off he was a brand new rider, secondly he was hanging out in bars and clubs till all hours of the morning, and lastly he went to an area that is well known to be avoided.

Moral of the story...don't get drunk and ride into Compton.

Coming north there's a road straight from Masaya to Tipitapa, totally bypass Managua.

It's a good road, I use when doing my border runs to CR

What route would you want to take? The Pan American or mixing it up on whatever roads look fun? Where would you enter Mexico? Ride or trailer to the US/Mexico border? Primarily camp or find lodging? With this big of plan I am assuming you have checked out the various threads on ADVRider.
And yes, a trial run next spring would be ideal.

Good on you OP! Fantastic bike choice and find. Best wishes and I will be following your progress

Best of luck!!  I am jealous!!

A thread worthy of a tag.

@GaryM

Let me answer the easy ones first.

Very few people camp south of the border. You cant be sure of property rights, local attitudes on such things, or legality. Plus motels can be had for $12-$20 and that is split between several folks if there is a group. Plus most motels have protected parking or will allow you to put your bike in the room. Sometimes people camp in an offered backyard or such. But generally speaking I am not hanging out long enough for folks to offer. I am just looking for an easy place to crash so I can get out and walk a bit and find food. Many places in rural Mexico and C.A. did not have hot water but they were always clean...except for one and I will share that story in a minute.

I will take a bivy sack and sleeping bag for emergencies. But weight is a killer and so is space. A full on tent and camping gear is a lot of weight and space. When you don't use them 99% of the time. I am not saying I wont camp, but I try to avoid it south of the border.

Last time I crossed at Reynosa. This time I would like to do Baja. The problem with that plan is that its a lot further to get there. But...Baja. I know it has been overdone but it's practically a pilgrimage in the ADV world and I have never done it. It will likely add several days to the trip in the US and I mean hard hot days bombing interstates which is no fun. It is also a big entry point. I always try to cross at the smallest, most overlooked crossings when I can as it is always easier. So, it's a bit up in the air. If crossing on the eastern side you do it early and you haul ass several hundred miles into Mexico on that day to get away from the border and honestly the crossfire.

Mexico is so kick ass and amazing to ride in. Box canyons, low desert, high desert, Mayan ruins in jungles, and amazing little towns. Everyone is friendly and wants to help and talk to you.

Central America however can be a pain in the ass to match it's beauty. The border crossing are choked with helpers looking to take your money for services you don't need. As well some of the officials will charge unofficial fees. It's hot as hell and they seem to always want a different set of documents. Which is why before we leave we will have many copies of lots of documents so they have less chance to catch us off guard. Not all crossings are like this but a few definitely are, I am looking at you Nicaragua. But I was never at the border more than an hour for any country. I don't piss around, I am aggressive about getting it done and getting through.

So here is the key part of my plan, and I know I touched on this earlier. The plan is very broad, open to interpretation, and not very specific. I call it "Head South" as that is generally the direction I take. Usually before I go to bed I look at the map, yes a paper map, and pick a town or area to aim for the next day. Last time for a while I used a map that listed Mayan ruins and was way off the beaten path checking out some cool sites. If I see a road that looks cool, I take it. If I see something I like, I stop. It is a freedom that most never have a chance to experience. Sometimes I make it to the town I was aiming for and sometimes I am nowhere near it.

This plan can have unintended consequences that aren't always favorable in the moment. Once I was riding along the frontier of Mexico and Guatemala. It was a bit rough around the edges compared to many areas, think of a holler in WV. Anyway I had a rough day from fighting massive wind, dropping my bike, being charged by a gigantic Brahma bull in the road and a sketchy feeling. There were animals all over the road, pigs cows, a flock of turkeys and in one place the road had fallen down the mountain. It was a rough day and I couldn't find a place to stop. The rule is you never ride at night and I was breaking it. I was in some sketchy town and finally found a half finished motel. I rode my bike a short flight of stairs to hide it as I just want liking the feel of the place.

The room had no windows just steel shutters which I kept closed. No water either. The toilet was in the center of the shower and there was a 55 gallon drum for flushing next to it. the next morning at dawn I was back on track and back in my head which is where most of my unease was really coming from.

In another instance I was in Guatemala and I ended up way up some mountainous region and was fairly lost. Through a series of delays I was pushing into dusk and looking for lodging with an urgency. I ended up riding down some shit mud road that had multiple bridges made from 6" steel pipe running parallel to the road, laid side by side. Probably fine in a car but on a bike it is just the wrong size for your tire. 8 seconds of terror. After three of these I soon realized I had to turn around and ride right back over them. I ended up at some lodge down a slick clay road.


I could only focus on the stress and negative emotion of those days. But here is the flip side of those stories.

When I was going along the frontier I was dropping down from a high desert at 9500ft. above me the mountains were still soaring and to my right the world fell away. I rode down out of the mountains and the desert landscape unfolded with three big dust devils swirling in the distance. I did fight the worst cross winds of my life and then stop in a parking lot only to be blown over and watch my helmet blow away like a tumble weed. But then a Mexican with a guitar slung on his back like something out of Desperado and the biggest mullet I have ever seen appeared out of the dust and helped me pick my bike up while speaking the first English I had heard in a week. Crazy and unforgettable. The next day after my uneasy night I went to some of the most amazing pyramids and was the sole person there.

When I was in Guatemala down that slick clay road I actually ended up in a nature preserve with a really nice restaurant on premises. It was beautiful and had a super comfortable bed. It ended up being great.

That's a lot of hot air to say I think the best plan is as little plan as you can get away with. I do want to bomb through Central America to some extent. It is beautiful but it tends to run together and South America is Huge!

ETA: As for getting to the border I will be riding. This is a 20,000 mile trip, what's a couple K in the US. But I will be busting it for time as at that point my trip is on the clock and I don't want to waste days in America that I could spend in Argentina or Mexico. Not that there isnt plenty to see in the US but it is far more accessible in the future outside of this trip.

I am good with all that. I have found out on my trips a plan is only good for a day or two then it is all made up as you go along. Entering at Baja. well, that is a long ass haul to get there. Ok, so in overall mileage it ain't much but superslabbing for days at the beginning is hard start.
I am going to try to make this happen but a year is a long time and if plans rarely last more than a day or two a year can be a real bitch.
What I really like is I would riding with others who have done this before. I have been to a few south of the border countries but this is a different beast entirely. So count me in.

Damn, I really wish I could go. Stupid job

My experience is good right up until we see our bikes swinging onto the boat to get around the Darien. From there on it will be an adventure.

But having been on the tourist area side of things, big town side of things, and a remote wanderer I can say I find the more remote wandering to be a very easy experience. There are no tourist traps or petty thieves eyeing your stuff. No one knows you are coming and no one knows where you are going the next day. Really, its all very easy minus the border aggravation. Plus I hear South America is even better than some of the BS that happens in C.A.

But a year is indeed a long time and anything can happen. We can't even really nail down entry requirements and start looking into some necessities until probably this summer due to the Covid fiasco.

But some thoughts for you and anyone else considering...

your bike currently has 40k plus whatever you add this next year and then tack on 25K you could easily be at 80k on a thumper. They can certainly last that long and do, but it is getting up there for a big single. I am not going to tell anyone what bike to bring especially when you know your bike, but its something to store in the back of your mind when it comes to spares. I will likely take a wheel bearing, my jets, spare plugs, maybe a spare clutch but little else. I will likely swap wheel bearings right before I leave but that is a stock DR thing. I also will take tires or have them waiting for me at the border and swap to something more aggressive than the tires I will use to get to the border. Also spare tubes, I forgot those.

I will have a Garmin Inreach. I think they are awesome and it allows me to text the wife every day and stay in touch regardless of cell signals.

But personally I am struggling with two things:

1. I really would like to have soft bags for weight savings but I think I will still go with hard panniers for security. I have had casual thieves search my tank bag but you have to put effort into getting into the boxes. I use a Pacsafe mesh bag over my duffle on top. I just want to keep my bike as lite as possible. It's all fun and games until you are trying to back your bike up on a cobblestone road with rocks the size of your fist.

2. I have a wonderful Motoport mesh suit which was perfect for Mexico and Central America. But South America is a different animal especially in the mountains. I am thinking of taking my Aerostich suit and also taking a mesh armored shirt that would allow me to pack my jacket in the high heat. Armor but I dont know how much sun protection I would have. Maybe enough but I need to get one and see. But the temperature thing has me concerned as varying temps mean bulky layers to pack. Apparently these air vests are the best thing since sliced bread Exotogg. I can appreciate heated gear but if I depend on it and it craps the bed then I have to locate something to stay warm while on the road. That could be hard to do in the salt flats of Bolivia.


I am also considering taking the BMW Adventure Off Road class in SC Off Road Course. It is stupid expensive but I have only heard great things about it and have wanted to do it for years. I dont believe it is a necessity and I am not taking my GSA on this trip. But if I can handle that big beast well off road then my DR will be a cake walk. I will never pretend I am a master at being off road and I promise you we will be on roads that might as well be off road. Even on paved roads you will often pull off into parking lots that look like a lunar landscape.

Tagged, best of luck getting the bike prepped. I will be following this thread!

Givi and Mosko Motors soft bags can be easily locked to the bike and bags can be locked closed
with cable locks. I have the Givi's and it is nice that with a turn of a key the bags can be removed and
carried to a hotel room. I think the Mosko bag uses a padlock or cable lock, but still not very difficult
to removed quickly.

I have a couple of decades as a mechanic so repairs are not a big worry as long as I can get or repair parts but I do understand your point. I ma giving serious thought to picking up a "throwaway" bike, fixing it up then abandoning it in Ushuaia (or wherever) due to the hassles of shipping it back home. I am of the same mind on tires. street tires until the pavement becomes scarce or when the street tires go bald then install the offroad stuff, I figure one extra set of new tires and hope they hold up, after that just get screwed on the price for something new. Tubes and patch kits along with the tires.
Soft bags for me and maybe a milk crate on the luggage rack (gotta represent the KLR lifestyle!) and a duffel bag/internal frame back strapped to the seat behind me for whatever else. All these are quick detach for night time storage. Daylight hours, well they might get my laundry etc.
I have a Spot X which I have used quite a bit but I have my doubts about it's reliability.
I have a generic riding suit which I hate wearing but will bring along and wear. I have developed a fear of road rash. Also a cooling vest and a snowmobile suit.
My riding ability is nowhere near Paris-Dakar but I do ok, nowhere near what I could do 30 years ago but I get by. I also prefer to get on the dang bike and ride and not dilly dally around all day. I have no problem slowing down when needed and even turning around when necessary.
Backpacking has taught me about shells and puffies and layering whatever you have to keep warm. Back in my Missouri days my cut off temp was 18 degrees, below that I would drive the car. I still have all that gear but would it be needed?
I can carry everything I need for an extended journey in a backpack, add on the extra capacity of the bike itself would do for all the bike related items.

I can’t speak from experience of course but a word I am hearing over and over about the Andes is “cold”. Once we leave Colombia I expect temperate may be the best we see.  We need @Red_5 and @BlackdogGS to chime in here on that.

Again this is for anyone interested...

I see low mile Gen 1 (my preference of the three I have had) KLRs for sale all the time for $2500. Of course I spend that much again on outfitting including Cogent suspension. But hey, this is the trip of a lifetime and this bike will be your best friend for 3-4 months. You want it to be comfortable and reliable.

I would also suggest a 200 mile range on a tank which a KLR can just do. You will see me swapping my tank soon for a monster. With the monster tank I won’t carry spare fuel, but if 200 miles was my max I would.

I hear shipping back is about $1500 and I am going to budget for it as I will have too much in my DR to abandon but I could if I had too. This is one of the reasons I am not taking a classic BMW.

You know I just remembered Topes. You are going to learn to hate these.

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Topes!!
And filtering through cars at stoplights. Pulling onto the shoulder to make a left turn, entire families on a scooter... It is all loads of fun!

It sure is.

ETA: I was just doing the math and realistically we are probably looking at two more tire changes after the border if we push the mileage and if we are running something moderately aggressive like a TKC 80. Though I am going to try out the new Tusk tires.

You could run something like the Shinko 705 which I really like but every once in awhile it is likely I would wish for more.

Is that the 650 or 400?  I'm planning on the continental divide from.exico to Canada and was thinking between the 400, 650 or the crf250 rally.  I dont know which to get.

It’s the 650. I had a 400 but it is a high reving and buzzy bitch. I was going to do a gear swap and a lot of mods but realized I was trying to turn it into a DR.

But intercontinental ADV rides aren’t typically single track from start to finish. You are on roads most all of the time. Sometimes terrible roads. Sometimes goat tracks but it’s not dirt bike territory. At least not for me.

I am watching a YouTube video as I type this and the guy is in Baja and he is talking about it being cold.

You have winter as you approach the equator and then you go to elevation.  Finally approaching to about 500 miles of Antarctica.

If I didn’t have that couple weeks in the heat of Central America I wouldn’t even worry about the mesh armor. I still may not. Just suck it up butter cup.

When are you planning on leaving? I may be down.

T minus 12 months.

October or November 2021. We need to hit summer in South America. But we also have to watch the boat schedule to get around the Darien Gap. Plus we can't even start finalizing due to the Covid BS for who knows when.

Well you know there will be some stress but it can be balanced with a hell of an adventure. All the way to Tierra del Fuego!