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Quoted:
I love my 100 Series. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/52B03398-105E-446B-8AB4-E9E23C43A1F9-643750.JPG View Quote |
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Nope, it is completely factory stock. Original air-pump and all. Garage kept in the south, single owner (my grandfather before he passed), and 42k miles. I just wish I had more time and money to invest in it, as right now it is physically perfect in almost every way except for the fact that it runs like hot garbage. I've looked into some of those options using the GM TBI, an I really like the AFI setup since it looks so clean and turn-key, but those TBI's are getting old too, and I worry about parts and long term compatibility with E10. The Fitech is pretty new to the scene, so nobody has a turnkey yet for it. View Quote Do it right now if your rig is stock and in good shape. Especially if it's weeping. They can go at any moment and your engine is wrecked. |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/160767/DSC01067-643914.JPG Do it right now if your rig is stock and in good shape. Especially if it's weeping. They can go at any moment and your engine is wrecked. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Nope, it is completely factory stock. Original air-pump and all. Garage kept in the south, single owner (my grandfather before he passed), and 42k miles. I just wish I had more time and money to invest in it, as right now it is physically perfect in almost every way except for the fact that it runs like hot garbage. I've looked into some of those options using the GM TBI, an I really like the AFI setup since it looks so clean and turn-key, but those TBI's are getting old too, and I worry about parts and long term compatibility with E10. The Fitech is pretty new to the scene, so nobody has a turnkey yet for it. Do it right now if your rig is stock and in good shape. Especially if it's weeping. They can go at any moment and your engine is wrecked. Attached File |
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What is it? A freeze/knock-out plug that comes out? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/265591/cruiser-643916.JPG View Quote Mine was an '83, same color as yours. |
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@PFran42 what front bar is that? Looks like a lower profile than an ARB, but it could just be the angle.
I'll be getting a slee rear for mine soon. Quoted:
I love my 100 Series. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/52B03398-105E-446B-8AB4-E9E23C43A1F9-643750.JPG View Quote |
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Yeah, galley plug on the passenger side. It's really the only weak link in the 4.2. Tons of threads on 'mud. Mine was an '83, same color as yours. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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What is it? A freeze/knock-out plug that comes out? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/265591/cruiser-643916.JPG Mine was an '83, same color as yours. I've done a fair bit of reading on 'mud, and I think I recall seeing something about a bad galley plug. I'm guessing you can get a plug kit from somewhere? |
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@PFran42 what front bar is that? Looks like a lower profile than an ARB, but it could just be the angle. I'll be getting a slee rear for mine soon. View Quote Another pic with the TJM. Attached File |
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This is an 83, same model as me. I grew up in it learning to hunt and fish with my grandfather. It was his farm truck that lived in the barn and never went much farther than the gas station in town. I've done a fair bit of reading on 'mud, and I think I recall seeing something about a bad galley plug. I'm guessing you can get a plug kit from somewhere? View Quote |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/21931/CEAB6674-3655-4B7A-863F-582E4D3B8F8F-636859.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/21931/0F992FAC-6348-4685-95A0-09A58141D5A6-636860.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/21931/530046E7-594E-4472-B06A-560F961ADB24-636861.JPG Bought this used in 2008 (bone stock) for around $6k. All told with all the gear I’m still in very low 30s. The drawers, rack, and gear is relatively new as the kids are easier to get out camping now. View Quote |
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Quoted: That was a TJM. I have a Slee on it now. Another pic wi5h the TJM. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/37E9657A-5A56-480B-8FDB-547BE30CF512-643943.JPG View Quote Looks nice. If I could find one with reasonable miles and cold AC I'd buy one instead of a 4runner TRD when I finally retire the old FJ. |
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Quoted: Mine would run 75 all day long. It was spinning about 3200rpm if I remember right. That was with 32s. If I had an unlimited budget, I would have Slee build me a 60 on an 80 chassis, with 100 Series engine/transmission. The 60s are the perfect size in my opinion. View Quote |
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You’re probably looking for a 100 series then if you’re looking at 25 ready to overland. I have 2018 200, and I can tell you there’s a huge jump up in everything even since 2015. Ih8mud is probably the best place to gather info. LC does not equal GX no matter how you slice it. A good deal on a LX may be worth considering, though I’ve always been a LC purist. If it’s a just for fun vehicle, find you a nice 100 with around 80-100k miles in the 15-17k range and make it yours.
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Quoted: What's the details on this truck? Looks nice. If I could find one with reasonable miles and cold AC I'd buy one instead of a 4runner TRD when I finally retire the old FJ. View Quote |
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Quoted: Bought it, joined IH8MUD he next day and started ordering mods for it shortly after. I did everything myself except air lockers, diff and new gearing. You can put 500k miles on these things. They are that good. View Quote |
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Lots of familiar usernames and owner pics in this thread from IH8MUD. I've owned 40/45/80/100/200-570.
I have a built 100, but end up camping and offroading my wife's 570 more just because of the kids. Turns out the mistake in my offroad design (kids werent born yet and now the 3rd is on the way) was not accounting for the family's explosion. They do take up a lot of cargo space :) Never accounted for 2X Minnie Mouse suitcases when mentally planning my trips. But at least they all enjoy camping....typing this from the 10 person tent that I didnt account for either...hahah Now I need to plan for a HUMVEE camping trailer. |
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Lots of familiar usernames and owner pics in this thread from IH8MUD. I've owned 40/45/80/100/200-570. View Quote |
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hello experts, I think I found one (not a LC, but a GX 460). Went and test drove tonight, 77K miles, $27K, immaculate service record/carfax, in awesome shape, barely even surface rust underneath it. I am taking it to my local mechanic tomorrow (hopefully) to do a once over. Paint in great shape, interior in 95%+ shape (a few dings here and there) no evidence of rust or anything underneath it or in the engine compartment anywhere (was garage kept).
Any last warnings before I move forward? Things I need to look for? Look at? Test further? Am I setting myself up for a service nightmare in terms of cost? Or can I take it to my local guy to service? I have a 2004 Tundra that I've done the oil changes, etc, but does have have all the fancy stuff on it. I am hoping to keep this for another 100K miles or more, so I will make sure to do proper maintenance. I have a Toyota certified mechanic that does work from his home garage right up the street also. I think everything is basically Toyota parts, right? Thanks all |
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You didnt post the year, but 2nd air injection pump can be a problem on pre 14's. Warranty expanded on that part to 10/150k.
Look around the water pump to make sure it's not leaking. You'll see a pinkish film around the pump area. Also make sure it's not leaning to the right. Even its level, you will want your mechanic to check the kdss relief valves. Dont open them but make sure they are not rusted shut. They are located under a cover on the frame rail. If they turn a bit great, slap some grease on them and move on. If not and they are rusted - pass, even if its sitting level. Very expensive to replace and the system has to be repressurized and not all dealers have the special equipment to do the job. Last I checked its $3000 in parts and fluid + 10 hours of labor. It's a rare fail but something to look at. The valve being rusted would be my only big concern. |
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08 Sequoia 5.7L here. 165k miles. No problems, minus replacing a starter. I tried to do some Googling and I haven't really found at what mileage they die. Dealership told me that they're coming in with 300 and 400K miles and still going.
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08 Sequoia 5.7L here. 165k miles. No problems, minus replacing a starter. I tried to do some Googling and I haven't really found at what mileage they die. Dealership told me that they're coming in with 300 and 400K miles and still going. View Quote |
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Don't beat me up too bad here.... My primary winter ride is a 1991 4Runner. She goes everywhere, but......
For the money people are getting for high mileage LC's you can bet a low mileage Land Rover LR3. Ford power plant, air suspension, factory skid plates on everything, available locker, etc.... I'm gonna be honest, I owned a Euro repair shop and never had an LR3 towed in. The closest was a failed water pump and another with a water intrusion problem, but both drove in. LR4's are a different story with the direct injected motors..... I had an LR3 for 100k miles. It was my "overland" vehicle. My dirt bike hauler went in the hitch receiver, EZ-up, folding table and camping gear went inside. Seats fold completely flat so I could sleep inside (6' tall). I also towed a bunch of heavy boats with it and eventually a hard side folding camper. Last year when my wife's 2012 X5 Diesel was totalled I went on the hunt for a first gen Range Rover Sport (basically the same truck, but a different body). We found a '08 with 100k for $13k. I spent about $4k completely servicing and going through it. Super nice vehicle. I've hauled my boat all over with it this summer. 6k lbs boat and we live at 7k feet. Just, let that 4.4 spin... |
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You didnt post the year, but 2nd air injection pump can be a problem on pre 14's. Warranty expanded on that part to 10/150k. Look around the water pump to make sure it's not leaking. You'll see a pinkish film around the pump area. Also make sure it's not leaning to the right. Even its level, you will want your mechanic to check the kdss relief valves. Dont open them but make sure they are not rusted shut. They are located under a cover on the frame rail. If they turn a bit great, slap some grease on them and move on. If not and they are rusted - pass, even if its sitting level. Very expensive to replace and the system has to be repressurized and not all dealers have the special equipment to do the job. Last I checked its $3000 in parts and fluid + 10 hours of labor. It's a rare fail but something to look at. The valve being rusted would be my only big concern. View Quote |
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Quoted: I’ve always wondered about these. Yeah, they’re “not built to the same level as an LC,” but are they really that bad? View Quote When I was looking at a new 4Runner the sales guy was trying to get me to buy a Sequoia. He couldn’t believe I told him hell no and I would take it if it was free. For what they ask for those of take a slightly used LC over one any day. Hell, I’d rather drive my 18 yo LC with 171k miles on it than a newer Sequoia. |
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Don't beat me up too bad here.... My primary winter ride is a 1991 4Runner. She goes everywhere, but...... For the money people are getting for high mileage LC's you can bet a low mileage Land Rover LR3. Ford power plant, air suspension, factory skid plates on everything, available locker, etc.... I'm gonna be honest, I owned a Euro repair shop and never had an LR3 towed in. The closest was a failed water pump and another with a water intrusion problem, but both drove in. LR4's are a different story with the direct injected motors..... I had an LR3 for 100k miles. It was my "overland" vehicle. My dirt bike hauler went in the hitch receiver, EZ-up, folding table and camping gear went inside. Seats fold completely flat so I could sleep inside (6' tall). I also towed a bunch of heavy boats with it and eventually a hard side folding camper. Last year when my wife's 2012 X5 Diesel was totalled I went on the hunt for a first gen Range Rover Sport (basically the same truck, but a different body). We found a '08 with 100k for $13k. I spent about $4k completely servicing and going through it. Super nice vehicle. I've hauled my boat all over with it this summer. 6k lbs boat and we live at 7k feet. Just, let that 4.4 spin... View Quote |
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Quoted:
You didnt post the year, but 2nd air injection pump can be a problem on pre 14's. Warranty expanded on that part to 10/150k. Look around the water pump to make sure it's not leaking. You'll see a pinkish film around the pump area. Also make sure it's not leaning to the right. Even its level, you will want your mechanic to check the kdss relief valves. Dont open them but make sure they are not rusted shut. They are located under a cover on the frame rail. If they turn a bit great, slap some grease on them and move on. If not and they are rusted - pass, even if its sitting level. Very expensive to replace and the system has to be repressurized and not all dealers have the special equipment to do the job. Last I checked its $3000 in parts and fluid + 10 hours of labor. It's a rare fail but something to look at. The valve being rusted would be my only big concern. View Quote |
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I would want one too but then I remember if I’m gonna pay luxury prices then I would get a new Range Rover Sport and not some plastic piece of junk pieced together with Camry and Corolla parts.
Haters flame on. |
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I'm betting its wrapped out My FJ60 is completely factory bone stock, tip to tail, and she feels like she is about to come apart at 75 View Quote Suspension has been gone through completely to include bushings so it rides pretty nicely for what it is. Smog pump has been gutted but no other engine mods. |
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Quoted: KDSS is a hydraulic swaybar system. Here is a pic of the front hydraulic articulation solenoid connected to the front swaybar. (Rear is similar) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/58012/DSC00100-646378.jpg View Quote |
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All I'm saying is... you guys don't know what you don't know. LC's are cool, but not at $25k for a 200k vehicle. I looked a bit when we bought the last Rover. Rover's have basically all the same after market support.
Anywho..... that's the response I expected. ETA, wait till your air injection fails and you go into limp mode miles from anywhere. Limp mode for air injection failure..... retarded. I just recovered one last week because it couldn't pull a pop up camper out of It's campsite. (There's a work around, but you shouldn't have to). |
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Quoted: My brother has a first gen (they look better than the second gen imo) and it’s falling apart and the interior is ugly as sin. Little things are breaking on it and it has 25k less miles than my LC. lol When I was looking at a new 4Runner the sales guy was trying to get me to buy a Sequoia. He couldn’t believe I told him hell no and I would take it if it was free. For what they ask for those of take a slightly used LC over one any day. Hell, I’d rather drive my 18 yo LC with 171k miles on it than a newer Sequoia. View Quote |
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Quoted: All I'm saying is... you guys don't know what you don't know. LC's are cool, but not at $25k for a 200k vehicle. I looked a bit when we bought the last Rover. Rover's have basically all the same after market support. Anywho..... that's the response I expected. ETA, wait till your air injection fails and you go into limp mode miles from anywhere. Limp mode for air injection failure..... retarded. I just recovered one last week because it couldn't pull a pop up camper out of It's campsite. (There's a work around, but you shouldn't have to). View Quote When you pick up that $10-15K LC with 150K on the clock, you are good to go for another 350k and 20 years. |
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Here is a 100 Series diff (top) vs. one from an FJ. Keep in mind that the FJ is a very robust vehicle.
Which one is build for 30 years of life in harsh environments? Attached File |
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All I'm saying is... you guys don't know what you don't know. LC's are cool, but not at $25k for a 200k vehicle. I looked a bit when we bought the last Rover. Rover's have basically all the same after market support. Anywho..... that's the response I expected. ETA, wait till your air injection fails and you go into limp mode miles from anywhere. Limp mode for air injection failure..... retarded. I just recovered one last week because it couldn't pull a pop up camper out of It's campsite. (There's a work around, but you shouldn't have to). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: LOL... That is all. Anywho..... that's the response I expected. ETA, wait till your air injection fails and you go into limp mode miles from anywhere. Limp mode for air injection failure..... retarded. I just recovered one last week because it couldn't pull a pop up camper out of It's campsite. (There's a work around, but you shouldn't have to). Wait you are serious..... |
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Here is a 100 Series diff (top) vs. one from an FJ. Keep in mind that the FJ is a very robust vehicle. Which one is build for 30 years of life in harsh environments? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/100_Series_Diff-647016.JPG View Quote The 200 series went to an even larger 9.5" rear. (9" front) |
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Quoted: Thats a great pic. Also considering the FJ has more similar HP and both vehicles have close to the same weight, yet the 100's 8" rear is much beefier. The 200 series went to an even larger 9.5" rear. (9" front) View Quote People who say “muh Tahoe” truly have no idea about the differences under the sheet metal. |
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Please welcome me to the "clone" club for Land Cruisers. we like clones at arfcom, right?
Going to sign paperwork on 2013 GX460 (Prado "clone"). local mechanic checked it out and said it was pretty much pristine (claim was it was owned by a pastor and garage kept and he said he agreed to that claim based on condition). It is bone stock, 77K miles on it. What is the first modification I should do to it???? Thanks for the input on this thread thus far and helping me spend money. |
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Please welcome me to the "clone" club for Land Cruisers. we like clones at arfcom, right? Going to sign paperwork on 2013 GX460 (Prado "clone"). local mechanic checked it out and said it was pretty much pristine (claim was it was owned by a pastor and garage kept and he said he agreed to that claim based on condition). It is bone stock, 77K miles on it. What is the first modification I should do to it???? Thanks for the input on this thread thus far and helping me spend money. View Quote Metal tech |
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