Ceramic tile onto concrete: What do I need to know?

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Ceramic tile onto concrete: What do I need to know?

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:26:50 PM EDT

Getting ready to tile the basement floor now that drywall and paint is done. I've already smoothed it out with a diamond floor prep tool. Pretty sure I'm using 12" ceramic tiles, but might could be talked into 6x24 "wood look" tiles if it doesn't alter the process a whole lot. This is an older home, though, and I don't want to go overboard with the spending. Any and all tips and advice welcomed.

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:27:43 PM EDT

[#1]

Tip
Use an uncoupling membrane

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:28:10 PM EDT

[#2]

A: go to Daltile
B: buy grid, wire, controller
C: put in radiant before tile

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:31:35 PM EDT

[#3]

Quote History

Quoted:
A: go to Daltile
B: buy grid, wire, controller
C: put in radiant before tile

View Quote

This. Love mine.

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:35:03 PM EDT

[#4]

Quote History

Quoted:
A: go to Daltile
B: buy grid, wire, controller
C: put in radiant before tile

View Quote

I built my own radiant floor with an Aube controller and resistance wire from Pelican Wire.

I have laid thousands of square feet of ceramic and porcelain and even done a super large walk in shower with Schulter components. I tried my hand at 6x24 plank tile and got frustrated and called a pro.

Go to John Bridge forums for pro tips.

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:39:11 PM EDT

[#5]

agree with the uncoupling membrane.....schluter products are good plus you can put in heat with them also

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:39:38 PM EDT

[#6]

First, examine the slab carefully, looking for cracking and heaving sections where things have moved out of plane. This will be a good indicator of potential for future tile installation failure.
Remember, that there are two kinds of concrete: cracked, and not cracked yet.

Check for "flatness," because many slabs are not, once you put a straight edge on them.
You may need to consider a self level pour first to get your slab flat enough for a good install, especially if you end up using large format or plank tile.

Definitely use a decoupling membrane such as Crack Buster Pro from Custom Building Products or Ditra from Schluter Systems.

I would suggest hanging out here and reading/asking questions: JohnBridge.com - Tile Forum/Advice Board
These guys are all (mostly) pros, but take a few of the extreme suggestions and recommendations with a grain of salt.

A.W.D.

Posted: 10/19/2017 9:45:22 PM EDT

[#7]

Have heard that the larger tiles 18-24" are crowned so it is best to split in thirds instead of brickset.

That's all I got.

Posted: 10/19/2017 10:04:52 PM EDT

[#8]

Don’t tile it.

Seriously, you don’t know what you’re doing or you wouldn’t be asking for suggestions... on a gun forum.

So it is likely that you are gonna get a really cheap tile and do a sketchy/shitty install that will be very difficult to undo.

Save yourself a bunch of time/money, consider other options, like staining/sealing, or epoxy with some nice rugs.

Just my opinion, good luck.

Posted: 10/20/2017 5:28:55 AM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
Don’t tile it.

Seriously, you don’t know what you’re doing or you wouldn’t be asking for suggestions... on a gun forum.

View Quote

Go for it. It isn't that difficult. Make sure floor is level, get a tile saw that is large enough to handle the tile you choose, get plenty if the plastic spacers in the size grout joint you want ( the ones with an "X" on one side and a "---" on the other work great) and get a really good pair of KNEEPADS!!!!

Posted: 10/20/2017 5:39:14 AM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
First, examine the slab carefully, looking for cracking and heaving sections where things have moved out of plane. This will be a good indicator of potential for future tile installation failure.
Remember, that there are two kinds of concrete: cracked, and not cracked yet.

Check for "flatness," because many slabs are not, once you put a straight edge on them.
You may need to consider a self level pour first to get your slab flat enough for a good install, especially if you end up using large format or plank tile.

Definitely use a decoupling membrane such as Crack Buster Pro from Custom Building Products or Ditra from Schluter Systems.

I would suggest hanging out here and reading/asking questions: JohnBridge.com - Tile Forum/Advice Board
These guys are all (mostly) pros, but take a few of the extreme suggestions and recommendations with a grain of salt.

A.W.D.

View Quote

I was really impressed with crackbuster pro on the last job I did tiling a basement.

It was much faster to install than Ditra style Mat and if I remember correctly could handle more settlement.

For everything else we install a product like the original custom Spyder Mat that was similar to Ditra but more flexible & doesn't require unmodified thin set.

Posted: 10/20/2017 6:22:34 AM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:
Don’t tile it.

Seriously, you don’t know what you’re doing or you wouldn’t be asking for suggestions... on a gun forum.

So it is likely that you are gonna get a really cheap tile and do a sketchy/shitty install that will be very difficult to undo.

Save yourself a bunch of time/money, consider other options, like staining/sealing, or epoxy with some nice rugs.

Just my opinion, good luck.

View Quote

If you can read, write, chew gum at the same time and follow a few simple instructions you can lay tile. Ain't that hard.

Do some reading OP. Layout is critical, don't want to end up with a 1" filler tapering down that one out of square wall ( every house has one)

Also make sure you have a good trowel and are getting good, solid bonding of the tile to the thinset so you don't end up with hollow, unsupported, loose tile down the road.

Had to redo Moms house after a few years because the "Pro's" left so many voids in hers.

Posted: 10/20/2017 6:47:57 AM EDT

[#12]

Tile is easy once you start. Square the room to see were cut edge will go and how it will jive with tile lines. If you lay on concrete and slab cracks, so will tile.

Posted: 10/20/2017 8:43:31 AM EDT

[#13]

make sure your basement floor is done settling and heaves in the future will screw up your tile

Posted: 10/20/2017 8:48:13 AM EDT

[#14]

I did 900sf in my basement where I used to live.

It looked great but was cold.

Posted: 10/20/2017 9:32:38 AM EDT

[#15]

1) Get some proflex membrane and put over the cracks in the floor.
2) Take a straight edge to the floor and check in multiple spots, depending on severity install self leveling material.
3) Use the proper thinset, make sure the slab is not smooth, you want some rougness to it, if it is smooth the thinset will not adhere properly.

Posted: 10/20/2017 9:50:32 AM EDT

[#16]

Fuck laying tile. Will never do it again.

Hire the Mexicans.

Posted: 10/20/2017 9:51:32 AM EDT

[#17]

Hire a pro. There, problem solved.

Posted: 10/20/2017 9:55:34 AM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:

If you can read, write, chew gum at the same time and follow a few simple instructions you can lay tile. Ain't that hard.

Do some reading OP. Layout is critical, don't want to end up with a 1" filler tapering down that one out of square wall ( every house has one)

Also make sure you have a good trowel and are getting good, solid bonding of the tile to the thinset so you don't end up with hollow, unsupported, loose tile down the road.

Had to redo Moms house after a few years because the "Pro's" left so many voids in hers.

View Quote

I've actually done floor tile once before, in the bathroom I built down in the same basement I'm tiling now.

It came out nice, probably been 5 or 6 years since I did that bathroom and there are no cracks or loose tiles.

This new project being a larger area, I just wanted to see if anyone had any helpful tips to make the job easier.

Posted: 10/20/2017 10:03:08 AM EDT

[#19]

Quote History

Quoted:
Have heard that the larger tiles 18-24" are crowned so it is best to split in thirds instead of brickset.

That's all I got.

View Quote

This. You want a minimum 1/3 offset with long tiles. I would randomize them if it’s a wood-look tile.

We just did a large area of the fake wood tile in our basement. It was a big job but I’m happy with the way it turned out. Use the LFT thinset and a 3/4” square notch trowel to help get everything set level.

Posted: 10/20/2017 10:15:01 AM EDT

[#20]

Get a good crack isolation that rolls on, red guard from home Depot or the mapei version at Lowe's. Follow directions to a t and get to the desired thickness. Then go to contractors direct and purchase a ramoindi leveling kit. Not the home Depot version of the tool. You'll thank me. The glue down membranes are good but not needed/costly. Ditra will work but isn't specifically designed as crack iso but uncoupling and add height to the floor, unneeded unless your adding a heat system.
As far as heat, i would agree with the others and say it's worth it if you can.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Ceramic tile onto concrete: What do I need to know?

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