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Posted: 9/21/2017 8:51:35 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hah at thinking Amazon can ship a radiator through FedEx, UPS, USPS without damaging it. DON'T buy a radiator from amazon if you are in a hurry. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 8:54:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes! Replace the (almost always) shitty factory ones with the stainless steel ones at the auto supply stores. They are only about two bucks each. Edit: If you look where the screwdriver slot is you will see that drive nut is hexagonal. A hex driver has a screwdriver handle and the equivalent of a six-point socket on the end. Very handy for that kind of thing--and it works MUCH better than a screwdriver. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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A 5/16" nut driver will work MUCH better than a screwdriver. Trust me on this. Edit: If you look where the screwdriver slot is you will see that drive nut is hexagonal. A hex driver has a screwdriver handle and the equivalent of a six-point socket on the end. Very handy for that kind of thing--and it works MUCH better than a screwdriver. Factory clamps are "constant tension" clamps that are designed to work with today's plastic radiator necks. Worm gears will warp and eventually crack plastic radiator necks in some cases. Worm gear hose clamps are best for metal necks, which is more typical on a thermostat housing side, but today's engines even use plastic there now. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 8:55:37 PM EDT
[#3]
Stop leak?
Yikes. I'd have your husband swap it out and save a few bucks. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 8:56:14 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You should not replace "shitty factory ones" with worm gears. Factory clamps are "constant tension" clamps that are designed to work with today's plastic radiator necks. Worm gears will warp and eventually crack plastic radiator necks in some cases. Worm gear hose clamps are best for metal necks, which is more typical on a thermostat housing side, but today's engines even use plastic there now. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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A 5/16" nut driver will work MUCH better than a screwdriver. Trust me on this. Edit: If you look where the screwdriver slot is you will see that drive nut is hexagonal. A hex driver has a screwdriver handle and the equivalent of a six-point socket on the end. Very handy for that kind of thing--and it works MUCH better than a screwdriver. Factory clamps are "constant tension" clamps that are designed to work with today's plastic radiator necks. Worm gears will warp and eventually crack plastic radiator necks in some cases. Worm gear hose clamps are best for metal necks, which is more typical on a thermostat housing side, but today's engines even use plastic there now. 
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Posted: 9/21/2017 8:57:43 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You should not replace "shitty factory ones" with worm gears. Factory clamps are "constant tension" clamps that are designed to work with today's plastic radiator necks. Worm gears will warp and eventually crack plastic radiator necks in some cases. Worm gear hose clamps are best for metal necks, which is more typical on a thermostat housing side, but today's engines even use plastic there now. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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A 5/16" nut driver will work MUCH better than a screwdriver. Trust me on this. Edit: If you look where the screwdriver slot is you will see that drive nut is hexagonal. A hex driver has a screwdriver handle and the equivalent of a six-point socket on the end. Very handy for that kind of thing--and it works MUCH better than a screwdriver. Factory clamps are "constant tension" clamps that are designed to work with today's plastic radiator necks. Worm gears will warp and eventually crack plastic radiator necks in some cases. Worm gear hose clamps are best for metal necks, which is more typical on a thermostat housing side, but today's engines even use plastic there now. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 8:59:03 PM EDT
[#6]
Why not try a product called Alumaseal:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/alumaseal-powdered-radiator-stop-leak-asbp-73/7120024-P?searchTerm=alumaseal Less than $3.50. Worth a shot. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 9:01:43 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why not try a product called Alumaseal: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/alumaseal-powdered-radiator-stop-leak-asbp-73/7120024-P?searchTerm=alumaseal Less than $3.50. Worth a shot. 
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Posted: 9/21/2017 9:04:08 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have done radiators twice now via Amazon. BOTH times they arrived damaged and had to go back. Both times the replacement showed up with a damaged box, but the radiator was intact. DON'T buy a radiator from amazon if you are in a hurry. ETA: maybe not. I looked online and couldn't find one. Might just have to bite the bullet and order. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 9:09:36 PM EDT
[#9]
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What's the best way to flush it out in your opinion? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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A couple hours at the most. Having line wrenches help if it's an auto. Flush the hell out of the engine of the stop leak crap before you put the new radiator in, if you can. Replace thermostat at the same time to save later trouble. When that's done, replace the radiator and drive for a while with just distilled water, no antifreeze. When it's cool enough to mess with, drain that and put in your coolant mixture for your climate. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 9:36:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ETA: maybe not. I looked online and couldn't find one. Might just have to bite the bullet and order. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 9:48:25 PM EDT
[#11]
I put an all aluminum radiator in my M3 since that's a major weak point in BMWs. On a scale of 1-10 in difficulty, I give it a 4(at least on my car). I imagine it being a little easier on a truck since you have more room to work with. I never previously swapped a radiator before btw and did it in about 4 or so hours.
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Posted: 9/21/2017 9:50:17 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was gonna suggest the same about the stop leak. You should get all of it out. Hopefully it stayed in the old radiator. It's good for clogging up heater cores too. You better flush the hell out of it !! |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:15:22 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:2. You get what you pay for in radiators. If the OEM is not much more money (aka double or less), always get the OEM radiator. The cheap radiators from China sometimes work great, but I often have to return them because of damage, or cheap parts. I returned one yesterday because the clips they use to hold the transmission cooler lines were total junk compared to the OEM ones.... and just crushed upon install. I used the cheap one in that case because it was 1/4th the cost of OEM. Mopar radiators are not terribly overpriced IMHO, so I usually go with those. Ford is a ripoff for their Motorcraft by comparison. Quote HistoryQuoted:2. You get what you pay for in radiators. If the OEM is not much more money (aka double or less), always get the OEM radiator. The cheap radiators from China sometimes work great, but I often have to return them because of damage, or cheap parts. I returned one yesterday because the clips they use to hold the transmission cooler lines were total junk compared to the OEM ones.... and just crushed upon install. I used the cheap one in that case because it was 1/4th the cost of OEM. Mopar radiators are not terribly overpriced IMHO, so I usually go with those. Ford is a ripoff for their Motorcraft by comparison. Quoted:
From what i read/watched i don't even need to screw with the clutch fan. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:18:17 PM EDT
[#14]
You F'd up putting that nasty stop leak shit in it...
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:20:49 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You F'd up putting that nasty stop leak shit in it... 
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:31:32 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not difficult, especially on a truck, as there's usually plenty of room. The hardest part is usually getting the radiator hose off. Use a tiny flat blade screwdriver and gently work it under. It's a good time to replace the hose if it's not nice and soft. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:34:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Even if you could weld that hole/leak shut on that radiator...IT'S NOW COMPRIMISED by the stop leak...
be very lucky if you don't crack a head if it overheats. Buy a new one and put only bottled mix in it...nothing else as if it clogs the tubes you're fucked and maybe crack a head. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:37:00 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tell me something i didn't know 20 posts ago. https://i.imgur.com/WTDnnwE.gif Quote HistoryQuoted:
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You F'd up putting that nasty stop leak shit in it... OK, those trucks are turds... 
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:38:50 PM EDT
[#19]
FWIW i have ran roughly 600 miles since i put the stop leak in. I have also left the truck running on a few different fire scenes without any issue. Also have ran the heater a couple times as well. Every thing runs fine like should minus the ongoing leak.
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:39:32 PM EDT
[#20]
Change belt/belts while you've got it apart. Cheap insurance.
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:40:51 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, those trucks are turds... 
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:45:39 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Before i get blasted let's put this out there first: My truck is a 02 Dakota 4x4 slt. I love my truck. Yes Dakotas have a shitty maintenance and reliability record. It's what i could afford at the time. Now that is out of the way and flame shields are up we can get down to business. My truck currently has a radiator leak. The leak is on the radiator itself and spews water out the front grill when it gets up to pressure. I already tried stop leak to no avail. I finally have some spare cash so i can get it repaired properly. Now the grand question is do i do it myself or take it to the local shop? I can get the radiator off of amazon for $95. Or should i should try selling the truck and buying something else. My budget is only $2500 though. I've done three radiators. Honda Civic, Mazda Protege and Mazda MPV. They are all a little bit different, but the procedure is the same. Your radiator has one outlet and one inlet. It might have an extra inlet and outlet for the transmission fluid, or not. Unplug the battery negative terminal drain radiator fluid into pan untighten radiator hose clamps, or move clamps off and slide away pull off upper radiator hose from radiator pull off lower radiator hose from radiator unscrew bolts/nuts holding the bracket that holds down your radiator to the car's front frame. Unplug radiator fan electrical connection pull radiator out unclip radiator fan from old radiator clip radiator fan onto new radiator put radiator back in plug electric fan harness to plug screw bolts/nuts to hold radiator down connect lower radiator hose connect upper radiator hose put radiator hose clamps to upper and lower radiator hoses as they were before. connect negative battery terminal Remove radiator cap add coolant to radiator and then reservoir tank put radiator cap back on run engine, watch coolant level lower after it burps fill with more coolant until reservoir tank is at full/max line run engine again. Also, I've bought all my replacement radiators from www.rockauto. Their prices on windshield wipers are great. Buy in bulk. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:46:43 PM EDT
[#23]
Replace the hoses while your in there as well. Its alot easier to slice the old ones off with a razor blade.
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Posted: 9/21/2017 10:47:38 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stop leak? Yikes. I'd have your husband swap it out and save a few bucks. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 11:11:11 PM EDT
[#25]
I did my 08 Wrangler back in the spring. I am no mechanic. It wasn't bad at all, I found a Jeep forum write up and watched a Youtube video or two,
and did it all in my driveway. Took me about three hours, and that's taking my time. I struggled to put some black trim pieces back, trying to get it perfect.. and got it close enough. Its basically disconnecting your battery, drain all coolant, loosen upper and lower hoses, remove grill, get radiator out (LOTS of screws in tight places, took the longest), drop in new rad, replace all plumbing and screws, fill with recommended (follow your specs) coolant, and burp out the air. If I can do it with my basic tools, you can too! Just watch some videos. I ordered my OEM radiator off Amazon or Ebay and it was cheap, cant remember what i paid, maybe around $150 Also, if you are going to go through with the install, you might as well drop in a new thermostat. You're draining the entire system, and the upper hose connection will be dry. A couple of screws and you replace the thermostat easily. My original oem radiator failed at around 90k miles. If I would have had this repair at the Jeep dealership it would be just south of a thousand dollar job. Take some time and watch youtube. Its do-able man! |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 11:23:11 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did my 08 Wrangler back in the spring. I am no mechanic. It wasn't bad at all, I found a Jeep forum write up and watched a Youtube video or two, and did it all in my driveway. Took me about three hours, and that's taking my time. I struggled to put some black trim pieces back, trying to get it perfect.. and got it close enough. Its basically disconnecting your battery, drain all coolant, loosen upper and lower hoses, remove grill, get radiator out (LOTS of screws in tight places, took the longest), drop in new rad, replace all plumbing and screws, fill with recommended (follow your specs) coolant, and burp out the air. If I can do it with my basic tools, you can too! Just watch some videos. I ordered my OEM radiator off Amazon or Ebay and it was cheap, cant remember what i paid, maybe around $150 Also, if you are going to go through with the install, you might as well drop in a new thermostat. You're draining the entire system, and the upper hose connection will be dry. A couple of screws and you replace the thermostat easily. My original oem radiator failed at around 90k miles. If I would have had this repair at the Jeep dealership it would be just south of a thousand dollar job. Take some time and watch youtube. Its do-able man! |
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:10:43 AM EDT
[#27]
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:16:53 AM EDT
[#28]
Dodges are easy to work on.
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:26:49 AM EDT
[#29]
Don't use stopleak again, you'll thank me if/when you ever pull the heads off.
Do yourself a favor and get a lisle funnel for the radiator if you ever plan on working on cooling system in the future, it's a nice investment for bleeding the system and prevents coolant getting everywhere. |
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:27:04 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Why not try a product called Alumaseal: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/alumaseal-powdered-radiator-stop-leak-asbp-73/7120024-P?searchTerm=alumaseal Less than $3.50. Worth a shot. |
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:42:50 AM EDT
[#31]
I promise it's not hard at all to do. I'm retarded when it comes to automotive repair but it's pretty easy. I would imagine with a truck it would be even easier. Be sure to check the condition of the coolant hoses. If they look worn or cracked, just replace them. They aren't expensive. A hose bursting as you're driving sucks. Ask me how I know
YouTube is your friend. |
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Posted: 9/22/2017 12:46:18 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I promise it's not hard at all to do. I'm retarded when it comes to automotive repair but it's pretty easy. I would imagine with a truck it would be even easier. Be sure to check the condition of the coolant hoses. If they look worn or cracked, just replace them. They aren't expensive. A hose bursting as you're driving sucks. Ask me how I know
YouTube is your friend. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 2:42:44 PM EDT
[#33]
Finally getting around to ordering the parts from RA. Am i missing anything? Will these parts work is the grand question as well.
1.Radiator 2. Radiator cap 3. Lower Hose 4. upper hose |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 2:53:10 PM EDT
[#34]
+1 on the nutdriver instead of trying to use a screwdriver on hose clamps
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Posted: 9/25/2017 2:57:48 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have done radiators twice now via Amazon. BOTH times they arrived damaged and had to go back. Both times the replacement showed up with a damaged box, but the radiator was intact. DON'T buy a radiator from amazon if you are in a hurry. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Hah at thinking Amazon can ship a radiator through FedEx, UPS, USPS without damaging it. DON'T buy a radiator from amazon if you are in a hurry. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:00:59 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was gonna suggest the same about the stop leak. You should get all of it out. Hopefully it stayed in the old radiator. It's good for clogging up heater cores too. Replacing at least the hoses you mess with is a great idea and much easier to do now since they will be half removed anyway. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:09:39 PM EDT
[#37]
Factory radiator unless you just want 6 months out of your car before you get rid of it. Rockauto crap is just that.
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:13:01 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Factory radiator unless you just want 6 months out of your car before you get rid of it. Rockauto crap is just that. 
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:29:58 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ordered a replacement radiator for my Pathfinder through Amazon, zero issues.  
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:32:53 PM EDT
[#40]
Why do you have to disconnect the battery when replacing the radiator??
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:38:41 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
While you’re in there order up and replace the radiator hoses while you’re at it. Rubber has finite life. Maybe order a new radiator cap too for piece of mind. Also if you’re feeling real frisky go ahead an replace the thermostat while you’re in there. Another 40-50 in parts replaced while you’re in there anyway is good preventive maintenance. And like mentions the personal satisfaction of doing the job yourself. Plus the money saved can get you some new gun stuff. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:38:44 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why do you have to disconnect the battery when replacing the radiator?? |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 3:53:22 PM EDT
[#43]
A stick went through the radiator and AC condenser on my 2004 Dakota earlier this year. Both were replaced with eBay aftermarket from the same vendor and the quality seemed to be surprisingly good. They came with no finish so I hit the front with rattle can flat black.
The idea of cheap replacement parts usually bothers me but this truck is semi retired and is only driven once a week or so. OEM was discontinued. So far, I'd have no problem recommending this brand. There's plenty of videos on YouTube to show you how it's done. Cheap Dakota radiator. ETA: This is a good time to replace the thermostat. OEM is cheap from Quirk on eBay. Take a good look at the hoses too. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 4:02:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A stick went through the radiator and AC condenser on my 2004 Dakota earlier this year. Both were replaced with eBay aftermarket from the same vendor and the quality seemed to be surprisingly good. They came with no finish so I hit the front with rattle can flat black. The idea of cheap replacement parts usually bothers me but this truck is semi retired and is only driven once a week or so. OEM was discontinued. So far, I'd have no problem recommending this brand. There's plenty of videos on YouTube to show you how it's done. Cheap Dakota radiator. ETA: This is a good time to replace the thermostat. OEM is cheap from Quirk on eBay. Take a good look at the hoses too. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 4:18:22 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why do you have to disconnect the battery when replacing the radiator?? Yes, I know there are plenty of scenarios where disconnecting the battery is overkill, but for newb's it is a wise step. If said newb has no idea how to disconnect the battery, it is the first indicator they should close the hood and walk away. Plus, there is always Mr. Murphy lurking in the shadows on Sunday, after all the parts stores are closed. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 4:33:37 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Common first step to disconnect power to the vehicle before starting repairs. Yes, I know there are plenty of scenarios where disconnecting the battery is overkill, but for newb's it is a wise step. If said newb has no idea how to disconnect the battery, it is the first indicator they should close the hood and walk away. Plus, there is always Mr. Murphy lurking in the shadows on Sunday, after all the parts stores are closed. |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 6:30:22 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why do you have to disconnect the battery when replacing the radiator?? I never do. It's silly. |
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Posted: 9/26/2017 1:33:25 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would head down to Pick N Pull and grab a clean used one. I think they are 30 bucks here. |
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Posted: 10/5/2017 9:48:05 PM EDT
[#49]
Update:
Radiator was fixed on Monday. Also took care of the check engine light. I had a mechanical friend with own shop help me with everything. He did a damn fine job. Replaced the Rad, Upper hose, Rad cap, Lower Hose. Was going to replace the thermostat but the part i got from JC Whitney wouldn't fit. No since in returning it since JCW return shipping costs more than the part. They comped it for me. The process in removing and reinstalling the new rad was more complicated than the videos on youtube FWIW. Also @eric496 Thank you for the link on the radiator from ebay. Works perfect so far. |
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