Is it kind of sketchy to purchase a first bow off of Craigslist?   I am looking at getting a bow, but I'm not sure how much Use it will see.  I think buying used would be a decent idea, but what I don't k ow are the following things:

Is a bow from pre-2010 really out dated?
Are their certain wear points to look for?
Is it smarter just to buy new?

Even though chicks dig scars, just say no to a used bow that old.

Better safe than sorry.  A well cared for used bow should be fine, but are you going to trust a Craigslist stranger?

If you have a reputable shop around, meet the seller there and have the bow looked over. Adventure outdoors helped me with my purchase. Found a couple of small limb pocket bushings that needed to be replaced, but no other issues. Good luck. 

If you really know what you're looking at or can take someone that does it might be fine.

If not-pass.

Consider going to your local shop, many have used or consignment bows.  Many entry level fully adjustable bows are very serviceable and can later be sold at or near what you paid for them.

Go to ArcheryTalk forum.  They have similar to EE.  Many buy the newest bow every year and sell last years model discounted.

Make sure you know your draw length, if buying online.

I love my 03 Hoyt Havoc, not old. I  still have my '89 Jennings lightning. Both could serve very well for decades.  New bows are way expensive for not a ton of performance improvement. Have a bowhunting friend look it over.

I alway recommend having a good bow shop help you especially on the first one after that you know more what you need but it's fairly confusing at first 

My self I think as a first bow you're better off going new.
It doesn't have to be the top of the line or even close to it  but going to a pro shop you can be measured for it.

Try some out , maybe even decide you want a longer bow so you can shoot with a tab  instead of a release .

What he said!

I have a 2003 Fred Bear TRX that does all I need it to do! Got it off FB for $150...

Last season!
Attached File

I have the exact same bow. On it's second string/cable now. Bought it new as my first and hopefully last bow.

Look it over closely for cracks in the limbs and check the condition of the strings. Other issues you might need a shop to diagnose but those are the main ones that could present safety issues, the rest are mostly function issues.

When its a question of "You dont know what you dont know", find someone who knows.

Best bet - a local archery shop (not a big box archery counter though).  Find the head curmudgeon and have him measure you. Tell him what you are looking for and see what he says. Chances are, he has a few used bows that will fit the bill. He will have a slew of new bows to compare them against.  He probably also offers a package service to inspect/restring/tune a used bow and cut you a dozen arrows.


Remember - your primary deficiency here is not that you dont have a bow. The deficiency is your lack of knowledge about archery. Get educated. Then get a complete rig that works for you.

I didn't want to end up with someone else's piece of shit so I went to cabelas and bought a reasonably priced diamond on sale. It'll get me through this season but I'll upgrade the sight and rest before next season.

OP,

Speaking as someone who has shot all his life, and is a certified USAA Instructor, there are three questions you have to answer first and foremost:

- How much are you really willing to spend? ($200 for everything?  $500 for everything?  Keep in mind that arrows, shooting accessories, etc can factor in also)
- What is your goal for the bow? (recreation in the yard?  hunting?  competition?)
- Do you have a good knowledgable shop nearby?  (not a retail big box store; no Cabelas/Dicks/BassPro/etc... I'm talking a true Bow shop)

Based on commonality, I'm going to assume you're looking at a compound bow.  If you're looking at single string type gear (longbow, recurve, one piece or take-down, or modern ILF longbow/recurve) then there's no real adjustment, but expertise for identifying wear and tear still has to be factored in.

The answer to 'buy used?' is always 'it depends'.  Some level of experience/knowledge is needed to assess the entire bow.  Would you buy a used car without knowing how to drive, and no knowledge of car parts at all?  (that'd similar to what you'd be doing...)  If you lack that experience personally, then you need to have someone else there to assess.  Even with the ideal of having a shop look over the bow, it will not always going to guarantee a good fit;  for example, if the only shop local to you primarily deals in Hoyt, and you're looking at a used Mathews or BowTec compound bow, then he will not be able to get cam parts to get the bow to fit you as easily.  (some bows have cam systems that adjust over a wider range now, and won't need parts, but that still requires familiarity to make the adjustments)  For compounds, a good fit is critical to comfort, injury prevention, and above all, consistent and accurate shooting.

This is not to say that buying used is impossible; if the knowledge to assess is present, and the fit is good, or can be made good easily through cam adjustment (or cam part replacement) then sometimes it's worth it.  Many accomplished shooters that understand fit and equipment components well buy and trade bows frequently while looking for the next edge/experience in their shooting journey.

Good luck, and feel free to PM me.

Cheers,
E.

Archery, unlike just about any other shooting discipline is about the fit of the bow to the archer. On a compound bow, even being off 1/4" on the draw length can make a big difference.

Also be wary of used bows until you know what you are looking at. Damage to a bow can take many subtle forms (i.e. bent axles, tweaked riser, twisted limb, etc...) These things can be difficult to spot even for experienced archers and will result in a bow that is untunable.

Archerytalk.com is a good resource once you know what you are looking for as was stated above, there are lots and lots of guys that buy new bows every year, and liquidate the old ones.

Also, make sure you don't fall into the trap of trying to buy the fastest bow out there. Many archers get too wrapped up with arrow speed and end up sacrificing shootability in the name of speed. Get a bow with a decent amount of brace height (7" or greater is a good number to start with) and a longer axle to axle length (>35"). These bows will tend to be more forgiving to shoot than a short 32" ATA bow with a 6" brace height. It will give up some speed, however any modern compound will have more energy than you need to kill a whitetail.

Go to an archery shop and shoot some. Went through this about 6 months ago. Went there several times, for several hours, before deciding on a bow. Then it had to be ordered from factory. They all shoot different, sound, let off, valley, these are things you should familiarize yourself with before purchasing. Ended up with a Hoyt Pro Defiant, hogg father sight, tight spot quiver. Take time to learn all the differences so that you can make a better decision. It's allot of fun. If you get the wrong bow because it didn't fit you, you may decide you don't like the sport. They are a very personal thing.

Read a couple articles on how to look over a used bow. If it looks good and has a decent reputation try to meet at an archery shop and have them look it over. If not, take it to one once you buy it.

Two off Craigslist, two off Archerytalk in the last 8 months. All great bows.

Upper end archery people are by far the biggest snobs I have ever encounter. Honestly, get a decent bow, arrows to match, and start shooting.

As time goes by improve your setup.

There went $1400! That's a bad ass bow. OP, I'm still shooting my 2013 Hoyt Spyder 30 and see no reason to upgrade, go to a local bow shop and get your learn on. No different than when you knew nothing about AR's, dive in and soak up all the knowledge you can.

Also, head on over to archerytalk, it's like here but with less trannies and weird shit.

I wouldn't go older than 2006 or so, there have been some big improvements since then. Mainly quietness and hand shock. That not to say an older bow isn't effective, I just don't think they are worth paying for when you can get a newer used bow for 300 to 400. I gave my old martin away the other day.

Things to look for, cracked or de-laminated limbs, bent cams or cam axles, excessively frayed strings.

If you get your arrows second hand, make sure to flex the piss out of them and listen for any cracking.

People have been killing things with bows for how long?  Archery snobs are some of the biggest idiots going.  The most minute and tiny increments of improvement in whatever area is the new "hotness" are lauded as groundbreaking and game changing, while any tradeoffs being given up are completely ignored.  This cycle repeats yearly.  

A 6 year old bow is fine.  

I will say there is a fair amount going on with a modern compound, and unless you know what you are doing you are probably much better to find a local shop, and buy in to a lower price point new bow that can be set up properly for you.  

If you choose to buy used, make sure you bring the bow in to a shop to be checked out and set up for you.  This service is free if you buy a new bow but will cost you if you bring in a used bow off the street.

me and my dad shared a 1980's fred bear bow off of backpage that was like $50. he shot his first archery javelina with it and i shot rabbits with it.