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I had a 90, my two buddies both had 89's.
Mine went way over 200k. If there's no rot, FO hard. |
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Nice...
100% rust buckets here, unless lovingly cared for indoors. |
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I have a pair of 84 M1009 CUCVs I need to sell one of these days
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Had an 81'. It was rust rotting away before any of the mechanicals were dying at 100K. I sold it for profit.
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My dad had a '77 he drove for a number of years. I was impressed with how much that thing was a tank, bone stock except tires. The only reason he sold it was he rolled it when it slipped off the road on an icy corner. He still misses it to this day.
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In for info, I'm hoping to find a decent one to pick up when I move to Alaska as a trail/hunting/beater rig.
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I pass on every vehicle the second I see wires hanging underneath the dash.
Maybe its just a poorly wired sounds system but it just screams shoddy maintenance to me. |
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Can you wrench on your own shit? If not I'd skip on a older vehicle.
Back wind are a pain in the ass. Tail gates all crack at corners. Hoods crease at crumple zone. Those early TBI injections really suck. If you are planning to build it up to an awesome rig, I'd consider earlier model for emmisions reasons if applicable in your area. LSX 6.0L with 4L80 out of a mid 2000s 3/4 ton would make any unit with good bones an exceptional driver and for cheap. They flex pretty decent off-road with little work for leaf springs. Lots of room inside too. You can but restoration parts for probably 100% of everything on one at this point. Good long term investment. They are appreciating FAST! |
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OP, the only caveat I can think of for those years is the emissions system. GM seemingly threw all kinds of different shit on.
You know how I said me and two buddies all had 89-90 k5's? All three had different emission systems. I had a "ball" converter with no air pipe. The others had two flavors of air cat with air pumps. |
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I pass on every vehicle the second I see wires hanging underneath the dash. Maybe its just a poorly wired sounds system but it just screams shoddy maintenance to me. View Quote |
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I've been wanting a K5 for a while to become my designated dune truck. So many sexy 70s and 80s out there it's not fair.
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I have a 1990 Dodge RamCharger that was a fire department's truck. It had 80 some odd thousand miles on it when I bought it in January 2015.
The guy was asking $6,300 for it. I asked him if he would take $5,300 for it and he jumped all over it. I am kicking myself because I should have offered $4,300 since he jumped on $5,300 so quickly. But looking at your pics of the K5...if everything looked as good in person...that $4995 figure seems really reasonable. if you throw out 4,000 as an offer, the worst he can say is no. EDIT: the aluminum tread plate on the inside of the doors and on other parts of the interior could be worrisome. Was he trying to hide some damage? |
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Price looks good. I looked at CL ones in my area and several were $7500 and only one lower..$4000
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I had a '79 K5.
That thing was unstoppable. I miss being able to sit in the engine compartment and work on a truck. |
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Had a lifted with 35inch bfg on my 81 Scottsdale pick up.
Would buy that in a Hart beat. Love the older Chevy truck, K5's Nothing better but maybe the Military ones with Diesel motors And three quarter ton or 1 ton axles |
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SSSHHH... Don't tell anyone on here. I have been planning on getting one, and i want the prices to stay low.
Also, a GMC Jimmy from the same time, can be found for cheaper if you look, and they are equivalent. Relevant to your interests. https://www.youtube.com/user/jwmerrick |
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Had a stock 90 full size GMC Jimmy, 350 with a 700R4 trans, thing always ran good, but the backseat floorboards rotted out where the floor 90'd up to the rear seat perch. I could look back and watch my tires turn with the carpet pulled back. Only real problem I had other than rusting out, was it would go through rear U-joints...everything was good, pinion angle, etcy , I ran good U joints (Spicer), and greased religiously, but usually about once a year I'd have to change out the rear u-joint, never could get it figured out, other than that, it was a great truck, if it hadn't rotted out so bad, I probably would of kept it longer.
I'd look over it good, pay attention to your pinion angles, especially since it's been lifted, but a good lift should correct the pinion angles. |
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I love my CUCV M1009 and if it had AC in it I would drive it every day
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Cool truck, but I would definitely get some pics of the frame/undercarriage before even considering it.
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My buddy had a late 80's Jimmy forever until he wrecked it. Decent ride, but the 10 bolt axles suck on the later ones. Seems like a decent one at a good price.
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Quoted:
My buddy had a late 80's Jimmy forever until he wrecked it. Decent ride, but the 10 bolt axles suck on the later ones. Seems like a decent one at a good price. View Quote |
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mines a 90 and I just discovered some rust through on a rear wheel well. kinda sucks but inevitable.
mine doesnt get as bad of mileage as I thought it would. Speedo/odometer doesnt work so no idea on mpg. fun truck. |
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Had a 85 m1009 and a 84 civi diesel. Civie was a manual transmission and miss both dearly.
I have been looking for a m1008 to get back into it again. |
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Incredibly easy to work on. Finding parts is an absolute breeze. For your carpet, hit up LMC Truck. View Quote The rear bench seatbelt setup is backwards. (female lap belt into male floor end) and you cannot find the male floor ends to save your life. About the only place that I can find that makes aftermarket stuff (bumpers etc) is Diy4x.com. As far as seals and ujoints etc, simple. |
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Ive found parts to be kind of difficult. The rear bench seatbelt setup is backwards. (female lap belt into male floor end) and you cannot find the male floor ends to save your life. About the only place that I can find that makes aftermarket stuff (bumpers etc) is Diy4x.com. As far as seals and ujoints etc, simple. View Quote I've got a 84 and just bought a soft top for it, fuck jeeps. |
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You never see a (running) K5 in New Jersey any more. If by chance you do, it's a complete rust bucket.
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'84 K5 owner here.
Easy to work on for the most part Parts arent as easy as you think, unless you want ChiCom crap. Cash for Clunkers wiped out alot of the K5s. Dont bother putting carpet back in it, Rino or Line X the inside or DIY, that is what i did. I put some rubber mats down and called it a day. As a daily driver, they are actually pleasant to drive, plenty of room inside, but the gas mileage will be horrible, even with an FI motor. A few things I would check on that particular vehicle: Look at the where the steering box bolts to the frame, esp the bolt holes, look for cracks. Its an easy fix and even easier preventive issue with a brace kit Look to see if the lift is done correctly - dropped pitman arm , lowered T-Case and extended brake lines. Check out CK5.com aka ColoradoK5.com wealth of info with down to earth ppl. Attached File |
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My old K5 is the only vehicle I regret selling.
Smog legal torque monster, 33" tires (3.73 gears) it would bark all four in low range Two batteries, big alternator, three amplifiers, ten speakers. I built the hell out of that thing Wasn't a very practical family vehicle especially with a newborn. So away it went I still miss it |
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I have a 1990 Dodge RamCharger that was a fire department's truck. It had 80 some odd thousand miles on it when I bought it in January 2015. The guy was asking $6,300 for it. I asked him if he would take $5,300 for it and he jumped all over it. I am kicking myself because I should have offered $4,300 since he jumped on $5,300 so quickly. But looking at your pics of the K5...if everything looked as good in person...that $4995 figure seems really reasonable. if you throw out 4,000 as an offer, the worst he can say is no. EDIT: the aluminum tread plate on the inside of the doors and on other parts of the interior could be worrisome. Was he trying to hide some damage? View Quote |
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My old K5 is the only vehicle I regret selling. Smog legal torque monster, 33" tires (3.73 gears) it would bark all four in low range Two batteries, big alternator, three amplifiers, ten speakers. I built the hell out of that thing Wasn't a very practical family vehicle especially with a newborn. So away it went I still miss it View Quote |
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M1009 here, daily driver/camper/off-road vehicle. Picked it up at auction w/ 92,000 miles on the odometer for $1303. Replaced starter, replaced batteries (shitcanned the 6tmf and replaced with group 31 size) replaced tires, did under dash starter relay mod. Replaced a couple of rubber fittings here and there. Did coolant flush, axle gear oil changes. Hit all the lube order fittings. Replaced drive shaft u-joints (fore and aft). Replaced box fuel filter with spin on adapter. Added a rostra controls cruise control. Eventually, I'll add air conditioning to it and herculiner the bed/floorpan. Still needs new shocks. It's at 5k miles on the odo, now. Rolled over to all zeros at Big Bend last year. http://i.imgur.com/BYCAu0p.jpg Far down the line, probably after injector pump rebuild, I'll think about some body work and repainting it. View Quote |
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I had a tranny crossmember fail on my 85 K5
was a poor factory weld |
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I had a 1972 K5, full convertible, metallic Bronze. Must have been a special order color because the truck wasn't a Silverado or a Cheyenne or CST. Base model with special color option, AF/FM, AC, 350/350. I loved the truck even with it's 6mpg. I paid $4500 for it. Identical this one was for sale for $13,500 http://www.2040-cars.com/_content/cars/images/74/619874/001.jpg View Quote |
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Look at the where the steering box bolts to the frame, esp the bolt holes, look for cracks. Its an easy fix and even easier preventive issue with a brace kit View Quote Rear drive line U joints are disposable or at least seemed that way. Two battery set up is the only way to go with that winch. |
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I run a dual battery setup. I have a removable winch setup. WHen I had my front bumper built, I made sure it had a receiver built into it.
Im using a Hellroaring system for my dual batteries. I dont know about the year OP is looking at, but on my '84, adding a second battery tray was easy, there was a spot on the drivers side, even the wheel well sheet metal had dimples for the bolt holes, just drill and mount. Can get a "left" side battery tray thru LMC. Wiring is pretty simple, jus google. |
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I still want a 70-72 or 73-75 Blazer. Those are the ones with the completely removable top. Some day....some day.
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