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7/21/2017 7:23:11 AM EDT
I'm thinking of getting a small blasting setup so I can do small parts and whatnot. I am looking at the $190 blast cabinet from harbor freight and a porter-cable pancake compressor (~$200). Would this setup be sufficient to blast small parts to remove parkerizing?

Thanks.
7/21/2017 7:28:45 AM EDT
[#1]
I would check out skatblast, they give recommendations on how much compressor is needed, I doubt that small of compressor will do it....
7/21/2017 7:32:09 AM EDT
[#2]
I have been looking to set-up the same thing but still confused about what compressor I need.

However, I do not believe ANY of the small volume pancake type compressor will be sufficient.

In for someone who can give good advice on blast-tool/compressor combinations
7/21/2017 7:33:49 AM EDT
[#3]
I thought so too until I watched a video on youtube of yankeemarshall bead blasting with the exact pancake compressor and he said it would work just fine....
7/21/2017 7:34:28 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
I thought so too until I watched a video on youtube of yankeemarshall bead blasting with the exact pancake compressor and he said it would work just fine....
View Quote
....running balls out w/ no pressure behind it.

Use a wire wheel or get a bigger compressor.
7/21/2017 7:35:20 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote History
Quoted:
I thought so too until I watched a video on youtube of yankeemarshall bead blasting with the exact pancake compressor and he said it would work just fine....
View Quote
Well, there ya go...
7/21/2017 7:36:17 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:



....running balls out w/ no pressure behind it.

Use a wire wheel or get a bigger compressor.
View Quote
If I use a wire wheel to remove the park, would I be able to re-parkerize on that new surface? Or would I have to blast after I put it on the wheel?
7/21/2017 7:42:30 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:


If I use a wire wheel to remove the park, would I be able to re-parkerize on that new surface? Or would I have to blast after I put it on the wheel?
View Quote
scatblast says 10 plus scfm for their normal nozzles, they do offer a low volume nozzle that will work down to 7scfm..  on my cabinet I ran minimum 17 scfm, and it ran flawless and fast....
7/21/2017 8:07:49 AM EDT
[#8]
...
7/21/2017 3:17:13 PM EDT
[#9]
any other input
7/21/2017 3:23:28 PM EDT
[#10]
Pretty sure we've got that exact setup at home. It works, but if you want to do anything decent sized be prepared to take several 5 minute breaks to let the compressor refill. Once it kicks on, you don't have much blasting time left
7/21/2017 3:32:53 PM EDT
[#11]
I've run down the air pressure on 3 phase industrial compressors bead blasting a lot of parts. A little 110 volt pancake compressor is going to give you a hell of a time. If you go into it knowing that you will spend more time waiting for the compressor to fill than time you spend blasting you can make it work.

If you use the blasting cabinet more than once every year or two you will quickly tire of using such an undersized compressor but you can always upgrade to a larger compressor later.
7/21/2017 3:44:31 PM EDT
[#12]
I ran a bench top blast cabinet requiring 7-11CFM on a Coleman compressor that would give me 4.2@90PSI, 5.6@40PSI. I recently upgraded to a Craftsman Professional that runs 9.9@90, 14.2@40 and life is much better.

It's not that the smaller compressor couldn't do it, it's that it was constantly running and I would have to pause often to let the tank refill.

I run 100grit Aluminum Oxide around 60PSI most of the time for Cerakote prep and the tank refills while I'm blasting.
7/21/2017 3:49:51 PM EDT
[#13]
$100 benchtop cabinet from TSC.  Pretty much any $150 compressor will do OK, I like at least 5 CFM @ 90 psi.
7/21/2017 4:07:56 PM EDT
[#14]
I have the harbor freight cabinet and one of these:
edit: can't get the link to work right, it's an Ingersoll Rand SS4L5, tractor supply #330133299

I wouldn't want to go any smaller on the compressor.

I started with a small 2 or 3 gallon kobalt compressor from Lowes (I already had it for tires & the nail gun).
I'd get maybe 10 seconds of blasting before the pressure would drop and the compressor would kick on.  I could push it, but pressure would keep dropping and I'd need to stop and let it charge up.
It'd take a minute to get back up to pressure.
The compressor was basically running 100% trying to blast like that, and it's slow.

You can make it happen for small parts, but waiting for your compressor like that gets old fast.

I still want to upgrade to a better gun, and the harbor freight cabinet needed a lot of caulk to seal.  I need to go back and reseal a couple corners.
Also, the harbor freight light broke before I got it assembled, I ended up using an exterior house spotlight from lowes for about $10 in the blasting cabinet, it works good.
7/21/2017 4:09:53 PM EDT
[#15]
... for light duty, personal use, Harbor Freight will be just fine - ask me how I know
7/21/2017 4:16:33 PM EDT
[#16]
Media blasting requires VOLUMES of air. With the mentioned cabinet, 80 gallons with a high output would work. I had a 60 gallon and would catch up with the compressor frequently. A pancake would be hopeless.
7/21/2017 4:18:08 PM EDT
[#17]
You're going to want as big of compressor as you can afford. I have a couple smaller ones and wasn't able to keep up doing small parts. Even a big compressor can run out of juice pretty quick when you're blasting.
7/21/2017 4:22:09 PM EDT
[#18]
@bandanabandit1

Build your own cabinet for $40 it's what I'm going to be doing.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_19/412910_DIY-Low-Budget-Sand-Blasting-Cabinet.html

Way cheaper, larger cabinet area, and you can pack it up and store it under your bench.
7/22/2017 3:52:02 AM EDT
[#19]
What if instead of blasting I soaked the parked parts in white vinegar to remove it instead of blasting it off?
7/22/2017 3:55:50 AM EDT
[#20]
The harbor freight cabinet is the way to go. But watch YouTube videos on the mods to make. Get the skatblast gun and be sure to seal it with caulking.