Posted: 6/3/2017 5:50:16 PM EDT
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I have a 24' x 36' pole-barn that I'm trying to turn into a useful work space. When we moved in it was a mouse infested, overly cluttered mess that was barely better than being outdoors. I mean, in the spring it's so moist inside that it damned near rains. I've got rid of most of the damned mice, and most the clutter, and now I'd like to insulate it. Would it be worthwhile to put 1 1/2" pink foam sheets in between the horizontal 2x4s and then sheet over it with 1/2" plywood? Would that prevent the wild temperature swings that cause the excessive moisture? Also, could I get rid of the diagonal 2x4 since the plywood sheeting would serve the same structural purpose?
OR, would i be better off doubling the horizontal 2x4s and using fiberglass insulation? Would i need some sort of vapor barrier? Or is it all a waste of time and money?? Attached File |
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Once you install the plywood the rats will have a lovely new home, find a better way that won't allow the critters to make a home. I figured the plywood would completely seal the voids over the foam. Mice aren't known to chew through plywood, are they? |
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No rats, just tiny field mice and I've got most of them gone because I nailed some pressure treated wood along the bottom of the siding outside, which prevents them from gaining access to the interior. I figured the plywood would completely seal the voids over the foam. Mice aren't known to chew through plywood, are they? |
| I have done two. I can not say it is the best way but it makes a warm building. First run all of your electrical between the 2x4's Lay up 1/2 inch extruded polyurethane foam over this and caulk all foam sheets to be air tight. Frame up with the cheapest 2×4's you can buy and make them flush with the building poles. Install 6 inch fiberglass insulation and sheet with OSB. Caulk all OSB panels and all power outlets. Now you have solid walls that will support cabinets and shelves. Make sure you do a good job overhead and use good insulated doors. This makes a very warm building in the winter and makes an easy to cool building in the summer. |
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I have done two. I can not say it is the best way but it makes a warm building. First run all of your electrical between the 2x4's Lay up 1/2 inch extruded polyurethane foam over this and caulk all foam sheets to be air tight. Frame up with the cheapest 2×4's you can buy and make them flush with the building poles. Install 6 inch fiberglass insulation and sheet with OSB. Caulk all OSB panels and all power outlets. Now you have solid walls that will support cabinets and shelves. Make sure you do a good job overhead and use good insulated doors. This makes a very warm building in the winter and makes an easy to cool building in the summer. |
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I cut 11/2" foam board then ran it between the 2x4's against the steel then caulked all the cracks. Then I nailed 2x4's against the girts coming out toe nailed in the posts . A local building supply had the compressed fiberglass batts that were 2 foot wide I laid in between the 2x's and sheeted over with OSB . My walls were 10 foot or nine foot under the stringers some we used 9 foot sheets stood up.
The ceiling is barn tin over plastic sheeting with 30 inches of Cellulose blown on the tin in the attic . Make sure and buy the non UV rated stuff much cheaper. Edit to add nail plywood under the two top stringers then stuff blown insulation in from the top . By the time we had the ceiling in it settled so just blow in some more from the top. I heated my 30x40 all winter for a 100 bucks all winter . Thermostat set at 45 and turning it up to 60 when out there. 
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I cut 11/2" foam board then ran it between the 2x4's against the steel then caulked all the cracks. Then I nailed 2x4's against the girts coming out toe nailed in the posts . A local building supply had the compressed fiberglass batts that were 2 foot wide I laid in between the 2x's and sheeted over with OSB . My walls were 10 foot or nine foot under the stringers some we used 9 foot sheets stood up. The ceiling is barn tin over plastic sheeting with 30 inches of Cellulose blown on the tin in the attic . Make sure and buy the non UV rated stuff much cheaper. Edit to add nail plywood under the two top stringers then stuff blown insulation in from the top . By the time we had the ceiling in it settled so just blow in some more from the top. I heated my 30x40 all winter for a 100 bucks all winter . Thermostat set at 45 and turning it up to 60 when out there. http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/Easy_E_photos/vapor_zps6df21b2a.jpg http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/Easy_E_photos/heater_zpsf2a45f1d.jpg http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/Easy_E_photos/20160714_214938_zps4rdq57xk.jpg BTW, nice car! The main reason I'm wanting to do this is to protect the '68 Camaro I'm restoring.  
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1937982_A-restoration-thread--1968-Camaro--UPDATED-14JAN17-.html |
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Sprayfoam and be done with it. It cost me a fair bit to have walls and roof done in a 30x40x12, but when it was -1* outside this winter during our annual snow, it was still 42* inside. Thats with no heater.Â
When I was inside working with outside temps running in the mid to upper 20s, I brought the temp up to 60 with a couple of space heaters in a little more than an hour if I recall correctly. |
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I cut 11/2" foam board then ran it between the 2x4's against the steel then caulked all the cracks. Then I nailed 2x4's against the girts coming out toe nailed in the posts . A local building supply had the compressed fiberglass batts that were 2 foot wide I laid in between the 2x's and sheeted over with OSB . My walls were 10 foot or nine foot under the stringers some we used 9 foot sheets stood up. The ceiling is barn tin over plastic sheeting with 30 inches of Cellulose blown on the tin in the attic . Make sure and buy the non UV rated stuff much cheaper. Edit to add nail plywood under the two top stringers then stuff blown insulation in from the top . By the time we had the ceiling in it settled so just blow in some more from the top. I heated my 30x40 all winter for a 100 bucks all winter . Thermostat set at 45 and turning it up to 60 when out there. http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/Easy_E_photos/vapor_zps6df21b2a.jpg http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/Easy_E_photos/heater_zpsf2a45f1d.jpg http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss148/Easy_E_photos/20160714_214938_zps4rdq57xk.jpg  Nice car too.
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I haven't checked local codes, but what's the alternative? Drywall only? Quoted:
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Plywood or OSB for the interior walls creates a significant fire load and is likely note to code in most jurisdictions. I doubt you need a permit to finish the barn off. I have never had an inspector not allow osb/plywood on the inside of a pole building. The steel will provide all the bracing that you need. Drywall would be a better solution than osb or plywood. |
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Thanks for the complements on the Camaro I need to get my butt in gear and get it restored.
I asked our local building inspector there is no code on a detached storage structure. We looked into spray foam and it wasn't in the budget . The problem with steel or drywall it damages too easy and is harder to repair. I had the drive shafts out of the jeep and was rolling it back . Couldn't stop it and the tow hook stuck through the wall. Just slap some mud in the hole and touch paint its repaired. Here's a before shot of the walls. We turned the 4x6's so the studs would tuck in between and the sheeting would be continuous for conduit later. 
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Where in MI do you live? I doubt you need a permit to finish the barn off. I have never had an inspector not allow osb/plywood on the inside of a pole building. The steel will provide all the bracing that you need. Drywall would be a better solution than osb or plywood. Quoted:
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Plywood or OSB for the interior walls creates a significant fire load and is likely note to code in most jurisdictions. I doubt you need a permit to finish the barn off. I have never had an inspector not allow osb/plywood on the inside of a pole building. The steel will provide all the bracing that you need. Drywall would be a better solution than osb or plywood. |
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I live a little North of Mt. Pleasant. Every pole barn Ive seen around here, including new construction, has OSB interior walls. As Easy-E said above, it seems like it would take the abuse of garage work better than drywall. Quoted:
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Plywood or OSB for the interior walls creates a significant fire load and is likely note to code in most jurisdictions. I doubt you need a permit to finish the barn off. I have never had an inspector not allow osb/plywood on the inside of a pole building. The steel will provide all the bracing that you need. Drywall would be a better solution than osb or plywood. |
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I've had both drywall and osb in barns the OSB just takes the abuse better. Is you damage be on repair just unscrew and replace.
I have about eighty foot of angle iron leaned against the wall now do that with drywall you will have damage. It's all about what your after a show place for your friends or a sealed up shop that can take the abuse . |
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I used ribbed metal building tin on my interior walls over a layer of OSB.
Fire proof, easy to clean up, easy to screw stuff to like conduit. Only thing I found that will hurt it is a tractor bucket. 
I left 4 foot of OSB exposed at the very top of the wall and painted it white to help reflect the overhead lights. HTH |
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Those rigid foam sheets are pretty expensive.
I just framed my pole barn out with 1.5 x 1.5 furring strips, ran my wiring and hung my boxes on those. Insulated with the r11 cheapie fiberglass rolls on sale from menards for like $6. Took a lot of time packing the insulation everywhere behind the strips and posts. Covered with OSB. Check your posts to see if they are plumb, or you will be cutting each sheet to fit each spot. I dont heat the barn all the time only when out there....... If i was using it constantly and heating it, absolutely do the spray foam |