Posted: 3/12/2017 4:41:22 PM EDT
| I have an older Stihl my father gave me. It runs great, but the chain brake seems "backwards". IE- it is loose and in the rearward position (close to handle) for the chain to move freely. I was certain that it should be in the rigid forward position to function as it should. In the forward position the brake is engaged. I have had the plate off several times trying to figure this out to no avail. |
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Yeah that's how the brake is supposed to function. Forward is engaged and back is disengaged. This is correct. It's to protect you from kickback. If the saw kicks out of the wood towards you it will torque around your hand on the cross handle and force it into the brake before the bar and chain can hit your face. ETA: Beat by nine seconds 
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| That is correct. The brake actuates in the forward position, this is to prevent kickback injuries. (kickback; high speed chain touches hard surface and rolls saw bar up and back into sawyer's face or other body part) If you don't have experience in sawing get professional instruction, VERY DANGEROUS if done improperly. |
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This is correct. It's to protect you from kickback. If the saw kicks out of the wood towards you it will torque around your hand on the cross handle and force it into the brake before the bar and chain can hit your face. Thank you for explaining it. Makes sense. Just seemed backwards to me. |
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As a side question.... How do you guys keep your chain sharp in the field. I have a chain sharpening file but is their a better way..? Second spare sharp chain..? I use a file but keep spare chains handy just in case. I usually keep a grease pencil around when cutting and will mark my starting link. Practice on an old chain, it might take me 3-5 minutes tops to put a razors edge on the chain. |
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As a side question.... How do you guys keep your chain sharp in the field. I have a chain sharpening file but is their a better way..? Second spare sharp chain..? Depends on how high speed you want to be. For the pros if they are on the clock they want to be cutting not filing. They carry spare chains. Most firewood guys just keep a file handy. I like a square cut chain which I suck at filing so I keep a spare chain with me along with a smaller backup saw in case my bar gets pinched. |
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Thank you for explaining it. Makes sense. Just seemed backwards to me. Quoted:
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This is correct. It's to protect you from kickback. If the saw kicks out of the wood towards you it will torque around your hand on the cross handle and force it into the brake before the bar and chain can hit your face. Thank you for explaining it. Makes sense. Just seemed backwards to me. Just be careful. Read the owners manual, or any one so that you can get an idea how not to kill yourself. Never approach a cut with the top quadrant of the tip of the bar! |
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I use a file but keep spare chains handy just in case. I usually keep a grease pencil around when cutting and will mark my starting link. Practice on an old chain, it might take me 3-5 minutes tops to put a razors edge on the chain. |
 Stihl MS230C-BE Chain Brake Demo |
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I use a file but keep spare chains handy just in case. I usually keep a grease pencil around when cutting and will mark my starting link. Practice on an old chain, it might take me 3-5 minutes tops to put a razors edge on the chain. ... And if you are a real dumbass like me, keep an extra bar also... and a scrench. I carry it iall n a backpack. Signed, Cap'n Pinchbar. |
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Great advise here. Whatever you do don't buy one of those electric sharpeners. They never put as good of an edge on as a file, and they eat too much tooth. Always carry a spare chain and a file in your saw box Quoted:
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I use a file but keep spare chains handy just in case. I usually keep a grease pencil around when cutting and will mark my starting link. Practice on an old chain, it might take me 3-5 minutes tops to put a razors edge on the chain. I don't use the electric sharpeners either, and I climb and cut for a living for trees for a living. Saw box? Wtf? You meant milk crate, right? |
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-whole bunch of spare chains that are sharp and ready to go. Quoted:
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As a side question.... How do you guys keep your chain sharp in the field. -whole bunch of spare chains that are sharp and ready to go. A properly filed chain is sharper than a NIB chain. I can sharpen a chain faster than change one in the tree or on the ground Except on my MS 180C - its toolless. |
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As a side question.... How do you guys keep your chain sharp in the field. I have a chain sharpening file but is their a better way..? Second spare sharp chain..? |
I have two of these that I have been using for a long time. Makes sharpening a chain easy and quick.
 
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I have a Granberg bar mounted sharpening guide that gets used every other tank of fuel in my saw. Nice, big chips mean your chain is sharp and will sink into a piece of wood
without much effort. If you're throwing dust and struggling to cut something, it's time to sharpen or replace your chain. |
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I have a Granberg bar mounted sharpening guide that gets used every other tank of fuel in my saw. Nice, big chips mean your chain is sharp and will sink into a piece of wood without much effort. If you're throwing dust and struggling to cut something, it's time to sharpen or replace your chain. I have always just freehanded it but I always felt I wasn't getting it perfect. Do you find it slows you down or is worth the effort? I've always considered getting something to assist, but wasn't sure what. |
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I have always just freehanded it but I always felt I wasn't getting it perfect. Do you find it slows you down or is worth the effort? I've always considered getting something to assist, but wasn't sure what. I find it worth the effort... all your file strokes have the same angle and are repeatable. 3 to 5 minutes of your time makes your chain sharp and cut like new again. Just make sure you get the right file for your chain. |
