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Posted: 7/1/2003 1:14:33 PM EDT
Hi-- I was working on a friend's bicycle. The brakes were a little loose, so I loosened the allen bolt, pulled the steel cable a little bit to tighten up the brake pads and tighteened it down. This worked a little better, but now one of the brake pads will drag on the wheel and the other one still has 1/4" of clearance. How can I adjust the brakes for just one side of the wheel? There is a little plastic "collar" that seems to hold the spring that separates the brake pads when you release the brake. I noticed a little screw there that I thought if I adjusted the screw attached to this collar/spring thing, it would adjust just one side of the brakes. Unfortunately, this didn't seem to help anything. Any ideas? If absolutely necesarry, I can probably take some digital pics. But if you're familiar with bike brakes, you probably know what I'm talking about, since I have two bikes in my garage (Mongoose and a Giant) that both have the same design on their brakes. Thanks for any help.
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 1:16:31 PM EDT
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 1:22:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/1/2003 1:26:36 PM EDT by QCMGR]
Try this: If it is a mountain bike brake adjust the small screw next to the brake boss on the cantilever arm. [img]http://www.timeoutdoors.com/Images/LMTBSPD01080905E.jpg[/img]
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 1:35:17 PM EDT
If it is a V-type or a canteliver brake there will be an adjustment screw on the side of the arm. Tighten the arm that is rubbing to tension the screw and that will put it back into alignment. You can also loosen the one that isn't touching to achieve the same result. Or, get disk brakes. You will not regret it.
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 3:45:09 PM EDT
what they said. Add to that once you get them equal, there is and over-all tension adjustment on the brake lever (on the handle-bar)
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 5:29:44 PM EDT
Hey, if the brake is a Shimano canti, like the one in QC's picture, Shimano has had a long standing recall on those. The grey plastic casing with the spring in it cracks and screws up the spring tension, making it so the brake won't center properly. If this is the case, which it sounds like it is, go to you local shop with the grey plastic springs and ask for new ones, if they don't have em or want to charge you for them, IM me and I'll mail you out some new ones. To get the grey plastic spring (collar) off there should be a 5mm allen or a 10mm hex head holding the brake arm on. Loosen that all the way out, and pull the brake arm off the brake boss. Next pull on the grey plastic piece and it should come right off. If for some odd reason that does't cure it, take some pics and I'll see what I can do. Hope that helps.
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 6:34:01 PM EDT
Check this out.... [url]http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/#articles[/url]
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 6:58:32 PM EDT
and when you're through with the brakes cut away all that foot operated pedal system crap and install a single cylinder two stroke..................
Link Posted: 7/1/2003 11:23:16 PM EDT
I'm an old fart but how about you just step back on the pedal and the bike brakes! Really an old concept ,tryed and true! (KISS) Bob [:D]
Link Posted: 7/2/2003 7:11:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/2/2003 7:14:25 PM EDT by wjshark]
Before you attempt to adjust the brake centering using the tension screws, make sure the wheel is centered to the fork (front wheel) or top and bottom of rear triangle (rear wheel). Just stick your thumbs in next to the frame and eyeball it. If not centered loosen one wheel nut and pull wheel to center and hold it there while retightening axle nut-recheck. Also check that wheel is straight by spinning and watching distance between brake pad and rim. Then center brakes to wheel using tension screws. If you are trying to adjust older side pull style brakes put a punch on spring as close to center as possible and hit it with hammer. Then squeeze and release brake handle(important) and recheck. Repeat as necessary. If brake moves too easily (you should have to tap it med hard to move it) tighten mount nut in back and re-center with punch. To remove squeal, toe pads in slightly so front of pad hits rim first. Mtn bikes should have cam plates for this adj.(usually mount stud for pad goes thru center and they have a slight protuberance so they can be rotatated-changes angle of pad- before pad is fully tightened), older brakes need to have small crescent wrench placed on flat area pad mounts to and twist slightly to bend mount for proper toe in. If there is any fore and aft slop between brake arms on older side pull brakes tighten both nuts in front center(inner nut is tension adjust., outer is lock nut)but after adjusting these check for free movement of both arms by squeezing brake lever and releasing, if not free loosen outer nut then inner and retighten outer nut and recheck. repeat until there is no slop but brake opens freely after being squeezed shut.
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