[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Rust removal through electrolysis (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 9/9/2016 5:26:04 PM EDT
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Seen a few threads here over the years on the subject. Think I'm gonna try my hand at it. I have cobbled together a little control panel for it. It will have banana plugs attached for electrolysis. I have a multi-tapped supply on an old rectifier/charger. I can drive from about 10-20 volts into the circuit with it depending on the setting. Just playing with it today, I have simulated a load with a 220 ohm resistor. The ripple on it is ugly, but was greatly improved by just adding a 3000 uH capacitor across the output. Not sure if cleaning it up really matters to this process, but it can't hurt it. At any rate, who here does this? I read that washing powder (soda) is the best way to make your solution. What do you guys do and do you have some before and after pics?
Here is what I am gonna use for the supply... 
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I use a small old Craftsman car battery charger, and sodium carbonate as the electrolyte.
Ripple shouldn't matter. Just make sure you get the polarity right. I use pieces of rebar as anodes. The iron oxide residue is useful for making thermite. Rinse, dry, and roast at high temperature until it's red. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I use an old battery charger that used to go to my dad's trolling boat. Can do 6v/10A, 12V/2A, and 12V/10A. I use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda); mostly because I never remember to pick up washing soda and always have baking soda around. I remember reading that while washing soda is better the difference isn't that great.
I don't have any pics. I've only used to to clean up old tools but it did a great job. |
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I use a small old Craftsman car battery charger, and sodium carbonate as the electrolyte. Ripple shouldn't matter. Just make sure you get the polarity right. I use pieces of rebar as anodes. The iron oxide residue is useful for making thermite. Rinse, dry, and roast at high temperature until it's red. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile What kind of container and how many rebar anodes would you generally use? I'm thinking about a bucket within a bucket. Large bucket with rebar around the edges and a smaller bucket with holes in it to hold the part and help insulate should the electrodes try to come together. |
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What kind of container and how many rebar anodes would you generally use? I'm thinking about a bucket within a bucket. Large bucket with rebar around the edges and a smaller bucket with holes in it to hold the part and help insulate should the electrodes try to come together. Quoted:
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I use a small old Craftsman car battery charger, and sodium carbonate as the electrolyte. Ripple shouldn't matter. Just make sure you get the polarity right. I use pieces of rebar as anodes. The iron oxide residue is useful for making thermite. Rinse, dry, and roast at high temperature until it's red. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile What kind of container and how many rebar anodes would you generally use? I'm thinking about a bucket within a bucket. Large bucket with rebar around the edges and a smaller bucket with holes in it to hold the part and help insulate should the electrodes try to come together. I use a 5 gallon paint bucket and usually four pieces of thick rebar connected together with copper wire. I clamp the rebar to the side of the bucket with Pony clamps. I can post pics tonight. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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No pics but I cleaned out a motorcycle gas tank that had heavy scaly rust and it was perfect when I was done. I used wash soda and an automotive charger. How did you do that? Did you hang metal inside the tank or something? I have a couple automotive gas tanks for a restore that I really need to do. |
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How did you do that? Did you hang metal inside the tank or something? I have a couple automotive gas tanks for a restore that I really need to do. Quoted:
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No pics but I cleaned out a motorcycle gas tank that had heavy scaly rust and it was perfect when I was done. I used wash soda and an automotive charger. How did you do that? Did you hang metal inside the tank or something? I have a couple automotive gas tanks for a restore that I really need to do. Yep, I used coat-hangers as the anode (they were convenient at the time since they bend easily), I changed them out once they became too corroded. Once the tank was about 95% clean I rinsed them with muriatic acid and that took care of the rest. Washed the acid out, dried it as fast as I could, and oiled it down with PB Blaster afterwards until I could get some gas in it, otherwise it would rust up almost instantly. |
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Yep, I used coat-hangers as the anode (they were convenient at the time since they bend easily), I changed them out once they became too corroded. Once the tank was about 95% clean I rinsed them with muriatic acid and that took care of the rest. Washed the acid out, dried it as fast as I could, and oiled it down with PB Blaster afterwards until I could get some gas in it, otherwise it would rust up almost instantly. Quoted:
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No pics but I cleaned out a motorcycle gas tank that had heavy scaly rust and it was perfect when I was done. I used wash soda and an automotive charger. How did you do that? Did you hang metal inside the tank or something? I have a couple automotive gas tanks for a restore that I really need to do. Yep, I used coat-hangers as the anode (they were convenient at the time since they bend easily), I changed them out once they became too corroded. Once the tank was about 95% clean I rinsed them with muriatic acid and that took care of the rest. Washed the acid out, dried it as fast as I could, and oiled it down with PB Blaster afterwards until I could get some gas in it, otherwise it would rust up almost instantly. Nice! |
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Didn't we have a few threads a couple years back about a 1911 being brought to function this way? Not sure but I do distinctly remember a thread about someone getting an M1A up and running that had been stored in a car trunk due to some anti's feels being hurt over it being in the house. Wish I could remember who posted it... |
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I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG That looks like some pretty vigorous action. |
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I use a small old Craftsman car battery charger, and sodium carbonate as the electrolyte. Ripple shouldn't matter. Just make sure you get the polarity right. I use pieces of rebar as anodes. The iron oxide residue is useful for making thermite. Rinse, dry, and roast at high temperature until it's red. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile This is exactly my setup. Use a home depot bucket and an ancient battery charger. Set it for 12v trickle, or 12v normal if I'm feeling impatient. Apparently hydrogen embrittlement can be an issue if you push too much current or voltage (not sure which), but I've never had an issue with it. Just have a piece of scrap trim holding a scrap piece of 2x4 that was too short. Copper wire twisted to give a good connection with the alligator clip and connected to some scrap fencing/baling wire. Stainless steel and copper are supposed to be bad juju in the electrolyte. 
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This is exactly my setup. Use a home depot bucket and an ancient battery charger. Set it for 12v trickle, or 12v normal if I'm feeling impatient. Apparently hydrogen embrittlement can be an issue if you push too much current or voltage (not sure which), but I've never had an issue with it. Just have a piece of scrap trim holding a scrap piece of 2x4 that was too short. Copper wire twisted to give a good connection with the alligator clip and connected to some scrap fencing/baling wire. Stainless steel and copper are supposed to be bad juju in the electrolyte. http://i.imgur.com/UQD2saT.jpg Quoted:
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I use a small old Craftsman car battery charger, and sodium carbonate as the electrolyte. Ripple shouldn't matter. Just make sure you get the polarity right. I use pieces of rebar as anodes. The iron oxide residue is useful for making thermite. Rinse, dry, and roast at high temperature until it's red. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile This is exactly my setup. Use a home depot bucket and an ancient battery charger. Set it for 12v trickle, or 12v normal if I'm feeling impatient. Apparently hydrogen embrittlement can be an issue if you push too much current or voltage (not sure which), but I've never had an issue with it. Just have a piece of scrap trim holding a scrap piece of 2x4 that was too short. Copper wire twisted to give a good connection with the alligator clip and connected to some scrap fencing/baling wire. Stainless steel and copper are supposed to be bad juju in the electrolyte. http://i.imgur.com/UQD2saT.jpg Not sure about the copper thing but the stainless steel electrode question has to do with chromium, possibly hexavalent chromium, ending up in the solution. I don't know if that's a realistic concern or not, but rebar and scrap mild steel are easy to come by so that's what I use. |
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Quoted: That looks like some pretty vigorous action. Quoted: Quoted: I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG That looks like some pretty vigorous action. Yes, it was drawing about 6 Amps at 12 volts. The current lowers as the anodes get caked with oxide. Busting that up helps for a while, but ultimately the anodes become useless. |
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I have a 2x4 foot piece of sheet steel that I have left out to rust. It's completely covered with orange corrosion.
I'd like to electrolytically remove the corrosion on certain areas to spell out a word on it. Do you guys have any idea how you'd do this? I'm thinking a paper towel cut into the shape of the letters, and soaked with the electrolyte solution. |
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I've done it with great success with the 5 gallon bucket, 4 pieces of rebar wired together, washing soda and a craftsman battery charger. It works through line of sight so anything not in line with the sacrificial anode does not derust.
You can also zinc plate items using the same method, only the anodes are zinc and the liquid is white vinegar and epsom salts 
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Yes please 
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I have a 2x4 foot piece of sheet steel that I have left out to rust. It's completely covered with orange corrosion. I'd like to electrolytically remove the corrosion on certain areas to spell out a word on it. Do you guys have any idea how you'd do this? I'm thinking a paper towel cut into the shape of the letters, and soaked with the electrolyte solution. There was something I saw not to long ago where people used something like that for marking tools. I did a quick search https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m9oxo0e5l0 that and the videos in the sidebar might give you some ideas And, as far as the topic, I've used it for rust removal before. I just used a wall wort that I cut the end off of and wrapped the cord around the anode and tool. I think I might have ended up using some alligator clips for it after a bit. The alligator clips are my idea of getting fancy with electricity, I know next to nothing about that stuff... I was expecting everything in the house to short out when I plugged the contraption in. |
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That's sexy, but how in the jumpin jehosaphat does that cost 600k? I'll wait for the $100 harbor freight version. Maybe they'll splurge for the UL listing so I don't set phasers to "burn down the house" 
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FYI I stripped my 1970 Torino to bare metal to have it painted by a certain date. I managed to finish the job just in time only have the painter, in typical painter fashion, flake out on me for a year.
Here is what I used to keep the car from rusting for about 350 days You can get it at most auto paint stores 
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Quoted: What is that? Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Anyone use a homemade "Outer's Foul Out", since they do not make them anymore? Materials, tips, tricks? Anyone, anyone........? What is that? They had two plugs, one in the breech, the other on the muzzle. You poured a solution in the bore, inserted a rod, and plugged it in. Worked awesome on crap surplus bores, or ones that copper and lead fouled badly. |
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They had two plugs, one in the breech, the other on the muzzle. You poured a solution in the bore, inserted a rod, and plugged it in. Worked awesome on crap surplus bores, or ones that copper and lead fouled badly. Quoted:
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Anyone use a homemade "Outer's Foul Out", since they do not make them anymore? Materials, tips, tricks? Anyone, anyone........? What is that? They had two plugs, one in the breech, the other on the muzzle. You poured a solution in the bore, inserted a rod, and plugged it in. Worked awesome on crap surplus bores, or ones that copper and lead fouled badly. |
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Quoted: l'll be darned. Never heard of it. Sounds pretty neat. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Anyone use a homemade "Outer's Foul Out", since they do not make them anymore? Materials, tips, tricks? Anyone, anyone........? What is that? They had two plugs, one in the breech, the other on the muzzle. You poured a solution in the bore, inserted a rod, and plugged it in. Worked awesome on crap surplus bores, or ones that copper and lead fouled badly. For some reason, they discontinued it. You can still get the chemicals, though. |
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Ok, somebody said stainless and copper are no goes for an anode. I assume galvanized would be no good either? I have a piece of galvanized sheet that may make a good anode if the chemistry works. You may end up with some zinc getting plated onto your workpiece. That may not be bad but its something to consider. Iron doesn't electro-deposit well, nor does hydrogen. I did a few small copper plating experiments when I was a kid. I think I used a saturated copper sulfate solution with a little sulfuric acid added, and copper anodes. Obviously toxic and corrosive but it did work. My mom was not amused. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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You may end up with some zinc getting plated onto your workpiece. That may not be bad but its something to consider. Iron doesn't electro-deposit well, nor does hydrogen. I did a few small copper plating experiments when I was a kid. I think I used a saturated copper sulfate solution with a little sulfuric acid added, and copper anodes. Obviously toxic and corrosive but it did work. My mom was not amused. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted:
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Ok, somebody said stainless and copper are no goes for an anode. I assume galvanized would be no good either? I have a piece of galvanized sheet that may make a good anode if the chemistry works. You may end up with some zinc getting plated onto your workpiece. That may not be bad but its something to consider. Iron doesn't electro-deposit well, nor does hydrogen. I did a few small copper plating experiments when I was a kid. I think I used a saturated copper sulfate solution with a little sulfuric acid added, and copper anodes. Obviously toxic and corrosive but it did work. My mom was not amused. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Silly question, but where would the rust deposit if you are using a rust resistant anode? Would it just accumulate in the solution, or does it have to be deposited on something? |
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Silly question, but where would the rust deposit if you are using a rust resistant anode? Would it just accumulate in the solution, or does it have to be deposited on something? Quoted:
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Ok, somebody said stainless and copper are no goes for an anode. I assume galvanized would be no good either? I have a piece of galvanized sheet that may make a good anode if the chemistry works. You may end up with some zinc getting plated onto your workpiece. That may not be bad but its something to consider. Iron doesn't electro-deposit well, nor does hydrogen. I did a few small copper plating experiments when I was a kid. I think I used a saturated copper sulfate solution with a little sulfuric acid added, and copper anodes. Obviously toxic and corrosive but it did work. My mom was not amused. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Silly question, but where would the rust deposit if you are using a rust resistant anode? Would it just accumulate in the solution, or does it have to be deposited on something? It churns around and eventually settles as powder on the bottom of your cell. That's what most of it does with sacrificial anodes. Clean, dry, roast to trivalent, and make thermite. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? |
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So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? Quoted:
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I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? Correct. Red (positive) attracts negatively charged oxygen ions, which destroy most metals. They are the Enemy! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Correct. Red (positive) attracts negatively charged oxygen ions, which destroy most metals. They are the Enemy! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted:
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I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? Correct. Red (positive) attracts negatively charged oxygen ions, which destroy most metals. They are the Enemy! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile So just to double check, I have a timing chain, cam gear, and crank gear. Could I do all three at once by hooking them all up to the negative? Then the only other thing I have to do is dump a shitload of baking soda and water, hook my sacrificial no the positive, and fire it up? ETA boy i fucked that up. |
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So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? Quoted:
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I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? Just remember: Black on Black. Black (negative) terminal on Black cast iron (or whatever you're trying to clean. Good luck. |
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So just to double check, I have a timing chain, cam gear, and crank gear. Could I do all three at once by hooking them all up to the negative? Then the only other thing I have to do is dump a shitload of baking soda and water, hook my sacrificial no the positive, and fire it up? ETA boy i fucked that up. Quoted:
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I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? Correct. Red (positive) attracts negatively charged oxygen ions, which destroy most metals. They are the Enemy! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile So just to double check, I have a timing chain, cam gear, and crank gear. Could I do all three at once by hooking them all up to the negative? Then the only other thing I have to do is dump a shitload of baking soda and water, hook my sacrificial no the positive, and fire it up? ETA boy i fucked that up. I would assume you would have no problem doing them at the same time. As far as a shitload of soda, there is probably some magic ratio that does the best job. |
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I would assume you would have no problem doing them at the same time. As far as a shitload of soda, there is probably some magic ratio that does the best job. Quoted:
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I misspoke. My little battery charger is a Diehard brand. Here is my typical setup in full action. Be aware that the mixture of gasses that bubble up is extremely explosive, so use good ventilation. http://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/91811.JPG So black off the charger goes on the piece you want to remove rust from, and red goes to the sacrificial? Correct. Red (positive) attracts negatively charged oxygen ions, which destroy most metals. They are the Enemy! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile So just to double check, I have a timing chain, cam gear, and crank gear. Could I do all three at once by hooking them all up to the negative? Then the only other thing I have to do is dump a shitload of baking soda and water, hook my sacrificial no the positive, and fire it up? ETA boy i fucked that up. I would assume you would have no problem doing them at the same time. As far as a shitload of soda, there is probably some magic ratio that does the best job. No issue with doing multiple parts, just make sure they aren't touching your rebar when you fire it up. Apparently will cause a short. |
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Don't over think it. I just used 4 pieces of rebar set at even intervals, a flat bar on the bottom, and I just drilled 5/32" holes in each electrode to plug in bullet connectors. I daisy chain the electrodes in series. The power supply is from radio shack that puts out 13.8v at 10 amps.
I have cleaned entire axe heads in 4 to 6 hours. Don't use stainless steel electrodes as they release very bad chemicals. Keep it very simple.  
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