Posted: 7/31/2016 4:47:18 PM EDT
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Anyone here know about these AC systems? I came home and it's very hot in the house. Look at the thermostat and it's blank, no numbers at all. There seems to be no power. Breaker is good, and it was working this morning when I left. Any ideas? I checked and I don't think the thermostat takes batteries.
Thanks for looking. |
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That thermostat is fully communicating and what's called power stealing. It gets its running voltage (24v) from the furnace or air-handler.
That was Carrier's top of the line thermostat. It went with a commicating furnace or air-handler and a matching condenser (outdoor unit). If no display is present, you most likely have a voltage issue with the furnace/ air-handler like stated earlier. Make sure the breaker for the furnace/ air-handler is on. Look for a wet puck or float switch (If a attic handler). If you have a gas furnace take the front panel off and you will see a RED or AMBER light. that light is your status light. If no light, no power or a control board issue (somewhat rare but they do fail). If the light is blinking (dots and dashes like Morse Code) that corresponds to a number(located on the door that you took off to see the light) and can help push you in the right direction as far as diagnosing. I've run into these thermostats starting to fail. If you have a multi meter and take the thermostat off of the wall you'll see four wires hooked to a terminal strip, ABCD. I want to say that C and D are the 24v from the indoor unit but I cant remember. Just check between them all, you'll find the right ones if you've got 24v. If you have 24v at the terminals and no display, you've got a bad thermostat. Those fuckers are expensive (like 3-400 expensive). Hope this helps Sean |
Thanks all! It was that hockey puck looking thing. Damn it's hot up there. There is a bunch of water sitting up there in the pan. No idea why, maybe there are two drains? The puck was in the pan that also had a drain but when water hits it, the switch cut off the unit. I pulled it out and once it dried, hit reset and it started working.  Now, I will go back up and see if I can find another drain. The one from the pan was not clogged for sure. But I am guessing that is a back up?
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Quoted:
That thermostat is fully communicating and what's called power stealing. It gets its running voltage (24v) from the furnace or air-handler. That was Carrier's top of the line thermostat. It went with a commicating furnace or air-handler and a matching condenser (outdoor unit). If no display is present, you most likely have a voltage issue with the furnace/ air-handler like stated earlier. Make sure the breaker for the furnace/ air-handler is on. Look for a wet puck or float switch (If a attic handler). If you have a gas furnace take the front panel off and you will see a RED or AMBER light. that light is your status light. If no light, no power or a control board issue (somewhat rare but they do fail). If the light is blinking (dots and dashes like Morse Code) that corresponds to a number(located on the door that you took off to see the light) and can help push you in the right direction as far as diagnosing. I've run into these thermostats starting to fail. If you have a multi meter and take the thermostat off of the wall you'll see four wires hooked to a terminal strip, ABCD. I want to say that C and D are the 24v from the indoor unit but I cant remember. Just check between them all, you'll find the right ones if you've got 24v. If you have 24v at the terminals and no display, you've got a bad thermostat. Those fuckers are expensive (like 3-400 expensive). Hope this helps Sean Thank for this, I may need to replace the thermostat. Can I put a Nest on this type of system? |
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Quoted:
Thank for this, I may need to replace the thermostat. Can I put a Nest on this type of system? Quoted:
Quoted:
That thermostat is fully communicating and what's called power stealing. It gets its running voltage (24v) from the furnace or air-handler. That was Carrier's top of the line thermostat. It went with a commicating furnace or air-handler and a matching condenser (outdoor unit). If no display is present, you most likely have a voltage issue with the furnace/ air-handler like stated earlier. Make sure the breaker for the furnace/ air-handler is on. Look for a wet puck or float switch (If a attic handler). If you have a gas furnace take the front panel off and you will see a RED or AMBER light. that light is your status light. If no light, no power or a control board issue (somewhat rare but they do fail). If the light is blinking (dots and dashes like Morse Code) that corresponds to a number(located on the door that you took off to see the light) and can help push you in the right direction as far as diagnosing. I've run into these thermostats starting to fail. If you have a multi meter and take the thermostat off of the wall you'll see four wires hooked to a terminal strip, ABCD. I want to say that C and D are the 24v from the indoor unit but I cant remember. Just check between them all, you'll find the right ones if you've got 24v. If you have 24v at the terminals and no display, you've got a bad thermostat. Those fuckers are expensive (like 3-400 expensive). Hope this helps Sean Thank for this, I may need to replace the thermostat. Can I put a Nest on this type of system? No it's a proprietary communicating stat. You'll have to replace it with the same thing. |
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A standard type thermostat can be installed with the gas furnace that's compatible with that thermostat. I would assume (but I'm not sure) that your air handler could be re-wired the same way. The problem is your system would lose the ability to stage automatically that the current thermostat provides. I'm not sure if the NEST is multi-stage capable or not. If not, you'd need a multi-stage WiFi capable thermostat. Plus you'd need additional low volt wires(you probably have 4-wire presently and you'd need 6-wire) between the air-handler and thermostat and the air-handler and the condenser. You're looking at big dollars and a massive pain in the ass. Carrier makes a backwards compatible WiFi communicating thermostat that will essentially plug right in to the existing equipment and low volt wiring. It'll only cost you 5-600 (the WiFi Infinity thermostats are stupid expensive). I've been doing HVAC for almost 20 years and the industry just keeps getting more retarded. 85% of the stuff my company does is Commercial/ Industrial. I'm glad we don't do much residental This stuff now is about as efficient as it can get. The engineers are just putting more lipstick on the pig. Hope this helps Sean |
