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AR15.COM
7/2/2016 10:33:30 PM EDT
Mine has died, loud air rushing noise and brake pedal is hard to push. Is removing the lines from the master cylinder required?
7/2/2016 10:35:52 PM EDT
[#1]
More than likely depending on the stud length.
7/2/2016 10:49:44 PM EDT
[#2]
Look for fluid in the booster unit when you remove the master.......yes generally remove the lines from the master.. remove the vacuum line from the booster....inspect the 1 way valve....remove the master...remove the nuts or bolts for the booster they will be on the inside under the dash attached to the fire wall..remove the linkage from the brake pedal to the booster .bench bleed the master before installing...then bleed the brakes at the calipers...the job will be less messy if you vaccum all the fluid out of the system from each caliper before you start ...
7/2/2016 11:46:43 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
Look for fluid in the booster unit when you remove the master.......yes generally remove the lines from the master.. remove the vacuum line from the booster....inspect the 1 way valve....remove the master...remove the nuts or bolts for the booster they will be on the inside under the dash attached to the fire wall..remove the linkage from the brake pedal to the booster .bench bleed the master before installing...then bleed the brakes at the calipers...the job will be less messy if you vaccum all the fluid out of the system from each caliper before you start ...
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Looking at the prices i may just spend the extra 30 bucks for one with a new master attached. The old one is 24 years old.
7/2/2016 11:56:51 PM EDT
[#4]
I've pulled many master cylinders and moved them over.
7/3/2016 12:19:04 AM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the answers guys, in all my years of working on cars i have never had to replace one of these.
7/3/2016 12:44:24 AM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:



Looking at the prices i may just spend the extra 30 bucks for one with a new master attached. The old one is 24 years old.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Look for fluid in the booster unit when you remove the master.......yes generally remove the lines from the master.. remove the vacuum line from the booster....inspect the 1 way valve....remove the master...remove the nuts or bolts for the booster they will be on the inside under the dash attached to the fire wall..remove the linkage from the brake pedal to the booster .bench bleed the master before installing...then bleed the brakes at the calipers...the job will be less messy if you vaccum all the fluid out of the system from each caliper before you start ...



Looking at the prices i may just spend the extra 30 bucks for one with a new master attached. The old one is 24 years old.

Probably a good idea  for a 24 you car.  Make sure that you can crack all the bleeder valves before you start and bench bleeding might work faster.
7/3/2016 12:53:23 AM EDT
[#7]
I have never removed the master lines.  What vehicle?
7/3/2016 12:56:39 AM EDT
[#8]
Most vehicles have enough room to just pull the master cylinder away without cracking the lines. You just gotta try to find out. I wouldn't bother replacing the master unless it's either leaking or you just enjoy making a mess.
7/3/2016 2:31:30 PM EDT
[#9]
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I have never removed the master lines.  What vehicle?
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A 92 Chevy truck.
7/3/2016 2:34:34 PM EDT
[#10]
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I've pulled many master cylinders and moved them over.
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This.

Should go without saying, but you've eliminated the possibility of a bad vacuum line, right?
7/3/2016 2:38:34 PM EDT
[#11]
Yes, line is good and plenty of suction going through check valve.
7/3/2016 2:39:37 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:


A 92 Chevy truck.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I have never removed the master lines.  What vehicle?


A 92 Chevy truck.


Unbolt the master from the booster and pull it off to the side,fun part is getting the clip off the pushrod under the dash