Posted: 1/17/2016 12:41:48 PM EDT
It's a dreary Sunday here so I decided to try and clean the rust of of my newly acquired Arisaka. What product/technique do I use?
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Steel wool and oil? Quoted:
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Be careful. Anything that removes rust will remove the bluing. Probably just a light oil will do. Steel wool and oil? I was thinking something like evapo-rust. I'm not saying to take steel wool to it. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. |
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The way I do it is thus. I soak the rust in oil sometimes Kroil for hours until it softens it up. I like to use cheap Chinese dental scaler as they are soft metal and with the proper touch will not scratch the blue. If the rust gets really soft the edge of a old credit card will also do. I also use 0000 steel wool, but if you are too rough you will do damage so not until you learn more. |
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Quoted: I prefer bronze wool and oil. It's gentler on the blueing. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Be careful. Anything that removes rust will remove the bluing. Probably just a light oil will do. Steel wool and oil? I prefer bronze wool and oil. It's gentler on the blueing. |
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Quoted: That's a nice looking rifle. If you do anything at all other than keeping it greased, be gentle (unless you want to remove all the bluing and refinish it.) Also a little WD 40 on a tooth brush... but same thing .. you run the risk of removing the bluing. |
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EDIT: I just noticed this was for a gun... specifically an antique gun. Disregard!!!
Try some rust converter. I did it on a set of steel wheels and it worked great. 
http://www.66autocolor.com/POR-15-Rust-Converter-Primer-p/por-15.htm 
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Lightly rub the high spots off with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Then boil in deionized water. This will change the brown rust to a black iron oxide. It needs to be deionized; ordinary tap water will not work. You must immediately oil after removing from water to prevent red iron oxide from forming. It is best to submerge in an oil bath while still hot and before the water has completely evaporated from the surface.
The let it rust, and boil technique is an old fashioned rust bluing method. |
| I disassembled it, I think im just going with oil and a nylon brush for now. I need to get some oil into the threads of the screws and clean all the crevices. This thing uses 4 sizes of flathead screws. Didn't want to risk stripping heads so I used the proper sizes. |
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My MAK90 loves to rust.
I oil the shit out of it, so the entire thing is dripping with oil. Let that soak up, and repeat until the metal wont take on any more oil. Then I just use old cotton T-shirts, socks, underwear, or whatever. And rub on the rusted areas, little bit at a time. When all of the surface oiling has dissapeared, and the rust seems a little knocked down, thoroughly re-oil and let it sit again for a while. Repeat. Over the past month I have almost entirely removed a couple of rusty finger-print marks on the thing and the surface bluing seems to be mostly intact. |
| If you use steel wool and oil make sure it's 0000 wool and no courser. You may find that where the rusticles come off the finish of the rifle will be lighter in color because the original black finish has absorbed the rust like it I supposed to, it's called a sacrificial coating like zinc or cadmium. I have cleaned rust from a lot of rifles a lot of ways and the 0000 steel wool and oil is in my mind the best way. |
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Guys on the python forum use eezox and Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner. I can't imagine they would use anything too aggressive on those finishes. |
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From what I understand that is not a surrender tag. Surrendered Arisakas have defaced Mums. You need to post that tag on http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?52-Firearms-Of-The-Rising-Sun&s=50f43ae569e1cef0e0d2f8a1272f5169
I would bet it has a Soldiers name on it. |
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Quoted:
It's a dreary Sunday here so I decided to try and clean the rust of of my newly acquired Arisaka. What product/technique do I use? https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1602/24439825345_999ee47be9_k.jpg 0000 steel wool then wipe with damp cloth, dry it and then oil it. No special products needed. any oil will do |
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I have used soaked many a rusty knife blade in white vinegar with great results. I don't know what affect it would have on the wood if any. Vinegar works on the rust but will also take off any bluing. There are some great rust remover products sold for automotive use that will dissolve the rust and leave even paint intact. But the simplest (and cheapest) is to use molasses. I tried it on a crusty engine block last summer with great results. It has to be non-desulphurized feed grade, as for animal feed. Not food grade like for cooking. I bought a gallon for $10 at Tractor Supply (sold for deer and bear bait) and mixed it 50/50 with water to make it spray-able. It took several weeks and the whole gallon but it dissolved the heavy rust. The real beauty of using molasses is that it contains phosphoric acid and the it will phosphate the metal to prevent rusting. |