[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Chainsaw Advice. (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 7/5/2015 6:54:44 PM EDT
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Looking at getting a Stihl chainsaw for clearing some woods. I already have one saw but I am looking to get something with a little more power to supplement it. It will at least be one acre if not more. The saw will be used for general lawn maintenance after that, maybe cut a few paths. It will get used….
Not sure if the professional series is needed or if the farm and ranch models would be good enough. It will be used hard for a while but then a few times a year for fire wood and clearing the occasional tree/limbs after that. I would also appreciate advice on engine and bar size. The trees are not all that thick. There are a few that are pretty darn big but my buddy has a saw with a really long bar on it that we plan on using if we really need to. Thanks, -G_B |
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I'd rather have a Husky. The 460 rancher is a good all purpose saw that will cut circles around Stihl's Farm Boss. You want the one with the 20 inch bar, some come with 24 inch bars but at 60cc that's pushing the capability of the power head.
Step into the XP line and look at the 550XP as well, I almost bought one, it's just so light and nimble feeling. A pro grade 50 cc saw is a joy to operate. If you must go Stihl I'd pick the 311. |
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Buy a Husky 550XP or 545. Do the research. You can buy a pro quality Husky, the 545, for the price of a homeowner Stihl and be way ahead.
Thankfully, the MS290 isn't available anymore unless you found an old stock model somewhere. Do not buy one. Go to arboristsite for more info - the arfcom of chainsaws. They also have an excellent EE. Right now you can buy an Echo CS500P with less than one tank of fuel for less than $350 shipped. That would be a great saw for your needs. 
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| I picked up a 550xp this past spring. I did a muffler mod out of the box and that little saw absolutely rips. I have to say I was skeptical about the auto tune feature but, I like it a lot. It has been flawless. The saw comes with a .325 chain but I can see it pulling a 3/8 on an 18" bar no problem. |
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I just got my first chainsaw a few days ago. I don't know shit about them. I traded for a Stihl 048 AV with a 25" bar. I'm thinking it's too much saw for me. It's a big old bastard, but has some real power.
Now I'm looking for a smaller/lighter saw for collecting firewood and light felling. If I was clearing a ton of land I'd want the lightest saw I could get that had enough ass to get the job done. |
| For what you're describing, I'd go used. I went to my local Stihl dealer and told him what I needed and he knew of 2 or 3 guys looking to sell some good older saws. I wound up with an excellent condition 039 for $200. It's a monster, and it runs like a raped ape. |
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MS290 is what I would suggest. This! I've had one since 2011. It has an 18" bar. I bought it for cleanup after an outbreak of tornadoes. My dad had 30+ oaks and hickories down. The saw cut every one of them into firewood length for splitting. Some WAY bigger than the saw is rated for. Last year we cleared a 1acre drainage draw/holler to damn up for a pond. We used heavy equipment to uproot and set the trees aside. After that the same ms290 went to work stumping, topping, and cutting to length. We sent two dumptruck beds of logs to the saw mill and cut the rest for firewood. After all this work, I couldn't imagine having a better saw. Its also a good bit lighter than the farm boss and professional series saws. |
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I'm happy with my 361 for doing pretty much what you describe. The current model in that size is the MS 362. The 261 and 361 are the two best general purpose saws I've ever owned. I would look for a used 026/260/261 and 360/361, they last well and you can rebuild them yourself when the time comes. Take care of the saw and it will last you 20 years. I still have the 021 I bought for firewood in '99, and that was a homeowner model. |
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Quoted: This! I've had one since 2011. It has an 18" bar. I bought it for cleanup after an outbreak of tornadoes. My dad had 30+ oaks and hickories down. The saw cut every one of them into firewood length for splitting. Some WAY bigger than the saw is rated for. Last year we cleared a 1acre drainage draw/holler to damn up for a pond. We used heavy equipment to uproot and set the trees aside. After that the same ms290 went to work stumping, topping, and cutting to length. We sent two dumptruck beds of logs to the saw mill and cut the rest for firewood. After all this work, I couldn't imagine having a better saw. Its also a good bit lighter than the farm boss and professional series saws. Quoted: Quoted: MS290 is what I would suggest. This! I've had one since 2011. It has an 18" bar. I bought it for cleanup after an outbreak of tornadoes. My dad had 30+ oaks and hickories down. The saw cut every one of them into firewood length for splitting. Some WAY bigger than the saw is rated for. Last year we cleared a 1acre drainage draw/holler to damn up for a pond. We used heavy equipment to uproot and set the trees aside. After that the same ms290 went to work stumping, topping, and cutting to length. We sent two dumptruck beds of logs to the saw mill and cut the rest for firewood. After all this work, I couldn't imagine having a better saw. Its also a good bit lighter than the farm boss and professional series saws. I own one called the 290 super farm boss. It's dead reliable and I thought it was the tits until I got my hands on a 440 with a ported cover. Holy shit. It doesn't weigh all that much more but the power is rediculous. I've come to the conclusion that the 290 has a poor power to weight ratio, good saw but heavy for power it makes. I've heard the 300 series stuff has more power for about the same weight. I bought my 440 used and I'd do it again. Go find a used pro series stihl saw, I'll never own another homeowner series saw. |
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261 is the best all around saw i have found. its light enough to run all day and powerful enough to run a RS chain without bogging it down in bigger wood. i wouldn't run anything larger then a 20 inch bar on it though.
remember the farm boss saw is still a homeowner saw so it will be a nightmare to do engine work on. the pro saws are designed to have more power in smaller, lighter packages as well as being able to perform major maintenance . home owners saws are very hard to do full rebuilds on. or take the go big or go home method 
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I was always under the impression that the 029, 290, ms290 WAS the farm boss. I own one called the 290 super farm boss. It's dead reliable and I thought it was the tits until I got my hands on a 440 with a ported cover. Holy shit. It doesn't weigh all that much more but the power is rediculous. I've come to the conclusion that the 290 has a poor power to weight ratio, good saw but heavy for power it makes. I've heard the 300 series stuff has more power for about the same weight. I bought my 440 used and I'd do it again. Go find a used pro series stihl saw, I'll never own another homeowner series saw. Quoted:
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MS290 is what I would suggest. This! I've had one since 2011. It has an 18" bar. I bought it for cleanup after an outbreak of tornadoes. My dad had 30+ oaks and hickories down. The saw cut every one of them into firewood length for splitting. Some WAY bigger than the saw is rated for. Last year we cleared a 1acre drainage draw/holler to damn up for a pond. We used heavy equipment to uproot and set the trees aside. After that the same ms290 went to work stumping, topping, and cutting to length. We sent two dumptruck beds of logs to the saw mill and cut the rest for firewood. After all this work, I couldn't imagine having a better saw. Its also a good bit lighter than the farm boss and professional series saws. I own one called the 290 super farm boss. It's dead reliable and I thought it was the tits until I got my hands on a 440 with a ported cover. Holy shit. It doesn't weigh all that much more but the power is rediculous. I've come to the conclusion that the 290 has a poor power to weight ratio, good saw but heavy for power it makes. I've heard the 300 series stuff has more power for about the same weight. I bought my 440 used and I'd do it again. Go find a used pro series stihl saw, I'll never own another homeowner series saw. your correct on the power to weight on the homeowners saws. the farm boss has less power then the 261 and 3 lbs heavier. 3 pounds is a lot when running a saw for 12 hours |
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That 440 of mine will drag an RS chain on a 25 in bar through anything. I just love the pile of big chips it'll make. The big bar makes limbing nicer, don't need to bend over as much which saves the back. I ran it yesterday for about 3 hours.....the power makes the day easier. |
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Look at rating of the engine in hours
50 hrs it will be homeowner 125 hrs farm / ranch use 300 hrs pro grade This is one of the only real measures of quality that can be measured from brand to brand. It is an emissions rating that means for at least 300 hrs a saw will pass emissions test. Why is this important ? If something won't pass emissions chances are it's smoking , and if it is smoking it means rings and cylinder are starting to show signs of wear. The top saws in no particular order 1. ECHO 2. Husqvarna 3. STIHL 4. Dolmar ( much much lower amount produced each year than the previous 3) For most people a saw in the 45cc-55cc is plenty big enough to handle any job they will ever tackle. I personally prefer a saw that runs .325 or full size 3/8 chain. Only buy OREGON chains , no matter what saw you buy - this is the world leader in saw chain. STIHL will tell you that STIHL chain won't stretch , it's a BS marketing gimck - all chain stretches ( doesn't actually stretch , but at each of the rivet holes , they elongate a little - multiply times 50-60 links + a small amount of wear occurs in the chain giving the perception it stretched ) - Whatever saw you get will have a range of bar sizes available ( always run a bar smaller than the maximum recommended length ) Buy something from a local dealer with a reputation for selling saws - not necessarily a lawn mower or agriculture oriented dealer. Most good saw shops focus on selling saws . You can tell because A true saw shop will have arborist equipment - ropes , climbing gear , choker chains and harvester equipment. I have been in this type of equipment business for a very long time- if you want any more help pm me ( or anybody else for that matter ) It's funny how much misinformation is offered up with questions like this, but I guess everybody means well |
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The 261 and 361 are the two best general purpose saws I've ever owned. I would look for a used 026/260/261 and 360/361, they last well and you can rebuild them yourself when the time comes. Take care of the saw and it will last you 20 years. I still have the 021 I bought for firewood in '99, and that was a homeowner model. Quoted:
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I'm happy with my 361 for doing pretty much what you describe. The current model in that size is the MS 362. The 261 and 361 are the two best general purpose saws I've ever owned. I would look for a used 026/260/261 and 360/361, they last well and you can rebuild them yourself when the time comes. Take care of the saw and it will last you 20 years. I still have the 021 I bought for firewood in '99, and that was a homeowner model. I just used my 036 pro again 2 days ago. Great saw, great power and always starts. It has only needed regular service, bars and chains for the past 18 years. |
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Look at rating of the engine in hours 50 hrs it will be homeowner 125 hrs farm / ranch use 300 hrs pro grade This is one of the only real measures of quality that can be measured from brand to brand. It is an emissions rating that means for at least 300 hrs a saw will pass emissions test. Why is this important ? If something won't pass emissions chances are it's smoking , and if it is smoking it means rings and cylinder are starting to show signs of wear. The top saws in no particular order 1. ECHO 2. Husqvarna 3. STIHL 4. Dolmar ( much much lower amount produced each year than the previous 3) For most people a saw in the 45cc-55cc is plenty big enough to handle any job they will ever tackle. I personally prefer a saw that runs .325 or full size 3/8 chain. Only buy OREGON chains , no matter what saw you buy - this is the world leader in saw chain. STIHL will tell you that STIHL chain won't stretch , it's a BS marketing gimck - all chain stretches ( doesn't actually stretch , but at each of the rivet holes , they elongate a little - multiply times 50-60 links + a small amount of wear occurs in the chain giving the perception it stretched ) - Whatever saw you get will have a range of bar sizes available ( always run a bar smaller than the maximum recommended length ) Buy something from a local dealer with a reputation for selling saws - not necessarily a lawn mower or agriculture oriented dealer. Most good saw shops focus on selling saws . You can tell because A true saw shop will have arborist equipment - ropes , climbing gear , choker chains and harvester equipment. I have been in this type of equipment business for a very long time- if you want any more help pm me ( or anybody else for that matter ) It's funny how much misinformation is offered up with questions like this, but I guess everybody means well always can tell a good shop if they have different weighted throw bags. had to run to my shop and buy a few backups when the bag got suck in a tree on a shit throw. |
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I have a Stihl MS362C to do exactly what you've described. Turns a 20" bar no problem and will go up to 25". For limbing and smaller work, I have an Echo CS-400. <a href="http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/ActiveShooter556/media/IMG_5575_zpszxde8wux.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ActiveShooter556/IMG_5575_zpszxde8wux.jpg</a> I agree. I love my MS 362CM. Starts every time, runs like a raped ape (I've done the muffler mod, which is crazy easy on the -362CM since it has the electronic tuner on it) with the 20" bar on it. I ordered it with a 25" bar, but then swapped it out onto my MS-440 Magnum. It's been a great saw! 
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I agree. I love my MS 362CM. Starts every time, runs like a raped ape (I've done the muffler mod, which is crazy easy on the -362CM since it has the electronic tuner on it) with the 20" bar on it. I ordered it with a 25" bar, but then swapped it out onto my MS-440 Magnum. It's been a great saw! http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Tree%20of%20Heaven%20pics/IMG_20150317_101323376%20Large_zpsyo8vmgnt.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Tree%20of%20Heaven%20pics/IMG_20150316_142234708_HDR%20Large_zpsa0cp8bck.jpg Quoted:
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I have a Stihl MS362C to do exactly what you've described. Turns a 20" bar no problem and will go up to 25". For limbing and smaller work, I have an Echo CS-400. <a href="http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/ActiveShooter556/media/IMG_5575_zpszxde8wux.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h324/ActiveShooter556/IMG_5575_zpszxde8wux.jpg</a> I agree. I love my MS 362CM. Starts every time, runs like a raped ape (I've done the muffler mod, which is crazy easy on the -362CM since it has the electronic tuner on it) with the 20" bar on it. I ordered it with a 25" bar, but then swapped it out onto my MS-440 Magnum. It's been a great saw! http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Tree%20of%20Heaven%20pics/IMG_20150317_101323376%20Large_zpsyo8vmgnt.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Tree%20of%20Heaven%20pics/IMG_20150316_142234708_HDR%20Large_zpsa0cp8bck.jpg I need to do more research on the muffler mod, I've read that they scream afterward. Just picked up this - https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/ I cannot believe how well it works. I prefer Stihl chain, I know another poster above had recommended Oregon - it really depends on how much you're cutting and the cost savings associated. I go through a chain or two a year, so the savings are negligible for me. Carlton, Stihl and Oregon are all good chains and will serve their intended purpose. |
| I bought a house on 4 acres where the previous owners really let the yard go to shit. Down trees and limbs everywhere. I bought a husqvarna 450 and it has served me well cleaning the place up. From felling trees, some probably a little for the bar I was using, to limbing and trimming. Starts every time and I rarely empty the tank before putting it up. |
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I'm happy with my 361 for doing pretty much what you describe. The current model in that size is the MS 362. On the mark as always Jane. Nothing smaller than 3.6 cubic inches for a chainsaw if you are working diameters over 10 inches, or bars over 14" long. You need the displacement to pull that many teeth in the cut. The 3.6 CID saws are a good compromise between weight & power. If you run a gallon of fuel through one in a day you will be glad you did not have a heavier saw. The Makita Model DCS642120 is another good choice. Really just a Dolmar saw. The number one thing to learn is chain sharpening. You can't cut all day without touching up the chain. On the saw with a cordless or swap chains in the field. |
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On the mark as always Jane. Nothing smaller than 3.6 cubic inches for a chainsaw if you are working diameters over 10 inches, or bars over 14" long. You need the displacement to pull that many teeth in the cut. The 3.6 CID saws are a good compromise between weight & power. If you run a gallon of fuel through one in a day you will be glad you did not have a heavier saw. The Makita Model DCS642120 is another good choice. Really just a Dolmar saw. The number one thing to learn is chain sharpening. You can't cut all day without touching up the chain. On the saw with a cordless or swap chains in the field. Quoted:
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I'm happy with my 361 for doing pretty much what you describe. The current model in that size is the MS 362. On the mark as always Jane. Nothing smaller than 3.6 cubic inches for a chainsaw if you are working diameters over 10 inches, or bars over 14" long. You need the displacement to pull that many teeth in the cut. The 3.6 CID saws are a good compromise between weight & power. If you run a gallon of fuel through one in a day you will be glad you did not have a heavier saw. The Makita Model DCS642120 is another good choice. Really just a Dolmar saw. The number one thing to learn is chain sharpening. You can't cut all day without touching up the chain. On the saw with a cordless or swap chains in the field. totally disagree. the 261 pulls through 16-18+ cherry and oak just fine using a RS chain on a 18 inch bar and that's a 3.0 CI saw. 361/2 is a fine saw, but you certainly don't need bigger then 3.6 CI to run over a 14 inch bar. you can get plenty of RPMs out of a smaller saw |
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I picked up a 550xp this past spring. I did a muffler mod out of the box and that little saw absolutely rips. I have to say I was skeptical about the auto tune feature but, I like it a lot. It has been flawless. The saw comes with a .325 chain but I can see it pulling a 3/8 on an 18" bar no problem. Quoted:
I picked up a 550xp this past spring. I did a muffler mod out of the box and that little saw absolutely rips. I have to say I was skeptical about the auto tune feature but, I like it a lot. It has been flawless. The saw comes with a .325 chain but I can see it pulling a 3/8 on an 18" bar no problem. Quoted:
I'd rather have a Husky. The 460 rancher is a good all purpose saw that will cut circles around Stihl's Farm Boss. You want the one with the 20 inch bar, some come with 24 inch bars but at 60cc that's pushing the capability of the power head. Step into the XP line and look at the 550XP as well, I almost bought one, it's just so light and nimble feeling. A pro grade 50 cc saw is a joy to operate. If you must go Stihl I'd pick the 311. Get professional grade Stihl or Husky. The homeowner/ occasional use stuff just isn't all that great in comparison. Buy once, cry once. I got the last of the new 346XP's because I didn't want that autotune crap they put on the newer model 550XP, but any of the Husky XP stuff is good to go. Husky vs Stihl is probably best decided by which one has a good reputable dealer closest to you. I wouldn't buy anything other than Husky or Stihl, and I would get the professional grade in a 45-55CC saw. |
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well, things seem to be getting more complicated than more simple.
I was looking at the Farm Boss and the guy at the store tried to talk me into the MS 331 Both of these are in the "farm and ranch" chain saws that are between the homeowner and professional series. I am not going to get a homeowner one but am consider the "farm and ranch" Is this tier of chainsaws worth a dang? There are a lot of opinions here and its starting to make my head spin. I also read up that the new professional grade chiansaws have this M-TRONIC on board computer. man, i really think a computer on a chainsaw is a really bad idea, I am betting they are on there for some kind of BS emotions standards. |
| The so called "ranch" models used to be better than they are today, personally , I would not buy one. If you go with one of the pro series Husqvarna or Stihl series you won't be sorry. Even the pro saws were better prior to recent EPA rules, but they still run well and are made to last. Finding a good used pro saw, pre EPA, is a real treasure these days, but it does happen. A Husqvarna 372xp is all the saw you will ever want, but probably more saw than you need. A Stihl 026 as mentioned was a great series saw, if you can find a used one in very good to excellent condition, you should latch on to it. Otherwise, a new Stihl in the 360 361 series is probably where you want to be. |
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I am looking for a XP series to run a 16-18" bar on but can pull a 20-24. Been checking Craigslist locally and find Stihl MS190/170/291 or a 056AV. And one 288 XP Honestly, you are better off with two different saws. Any saw that can pull a 24" bar will be too heavy for a 16-18", won't balance worth a damn, and any saw that feels "right" with an 18" bar will struggle with the longer stuff (and you will never be happy with it once you really need it to pull 20+ inches of chain). I picked up a Husqvarna 242XP for 16" work, and use a 575XP for the 20" stuff. The 242 can still pull a 18", and the 575 does great with a 24". I actually have a 372XP with a 24" bar, and run a Stihl 460 with a 28" on the end. Two of the biggest saw mistakes I have made to date were selling a Stihl 026 and Husqvarna 359, absolute perfect saws for an 18" bar. I feel I have a pretty rounded collection (also have an Echo 3300T for limb work), but I still kick myself for parting with the 026 and 359 as I lack a "comfortable" saw that does really well with an 18" bar. There are times when the 242XP isn't quite big enough, and the 575XP can get heavy. |
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Honestly, you are better off with two different saws. Any saw that can pull a 24" bar will be too heavy for a 16-18", won't balance worth a damn, and any saw that feels "right" with an 18" bar will struggle with the longer stuff (and you will never be happy with it once you really need it to pull 20+ inches of chain). I picked up a Husqvarna 242XP for 16" work, and use a 575XP for the 20" stuff. The 242 can still pull a 18", and the 575 does great with a 24". I actually have a 372XP with a 24" bar, and run a Stihl 460 with a 28" on the end. Two of the biggest saw mistakes I have made to date were selling a Stihl 026 and Husqvarna 359, absolute perfect saws for an 18" bar. I feel I have a pretty rounded collection (also have an Echo 3300T for limb work), but I still kick myself for parting with the 026 and 359 as I lack a "comfortable" saw that does really well with an 18" bar. There are times when the 242XP isn't quite big enough, and the 575XP can get heavy. Quoted:
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I am looking for a XP series to run a 16-18" bar on but can pull a 20-24. Been checking Craigslist locally and find Stihl MS190/170/291 or a 056AV. And one 288 XP Honestly, you are better off with two different saws. Any saw that can pull a 24" bar will be too heavy for a 16-18", won't balance worth a damn, and any saw that feels "right" with an 18" bar will struggle with the longer stuff (and you will never be happy with it once you really need it to pull 20+ inches of chain). I picked up a Husqvarna 242XP for 16" work, and use a 575XP for the 20" stuff. The 242 can still pull a 18", and the 575 does great with a 24". I actually have a 372XP with a 24" bar, and run a Stihl 460 with a 28" on the end. Two of the biggest saw mistakes I have made to date were selling a Stihl 026 and Husqvarna 359, absolute perfect saws for an 18" bar. I feel I have a pretty rounded collection (also have an Echo 3300T for limb work), but I still kick myself for parting with the 026 and 359 as I lack a "comfortable" saw that does really well with an 18" bar. There are times when the 242XP isn't quite big enough, and the 575XP can get heavy. 
242's are vicious little shits. 
Look hard at 346XP if you can find one. With just a Muff mod and a woods port, they will run a 18" with as much speed as a stock 359. I have ran the new 550XP and it's nice and all, but I'll just keep the 346 and keep rebuilding it. |
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well, things seem to be getting more complicated than more simple. I was looking at the Farm Boss and the guy at the store tried to talk me into the MS 331 Both of these are in the "farm and ranch" chain saws that are between the homeowner and professional series. I am not going to get a homeowner one but am consider the "farm and ranch" Is this tier of chainsaws worth a dang? There are a lot of opinions here and its starting to make my head spin. I also read up that the new professional grade chiansaws have this M-TRONIC on board computer. man, i really think a computer on a chainsaw is a really bad idea, I am betting they are on there for some kind of BS emotions standards. the farm ranch saws are nothing more then a larger displacement engine home owner saw. they're the same design as a homeowner saw, just larger fram to handler a larger task. the mtronic is an awesome feature. it will shut the engine down during low oil situations. also, it makes the saws a breeze to start up. usually 2-3 pulls on a cold day. the demo saws have fuel injection now and i was told the larger saws, 461. 661, 880 size saws will be offered with fuel injection soon. better fuel economy and way lower emissions with more power. oh and on the emissions and saws topic... i know some guys get all bent outa shape hearing the lower emissions from a saw blah ba blah , but im all for it. when you run a saw 8-12 hours in a day, your breathing that shit in the same amount of time. fuck that . |
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Honestly, you are better off with two different saws. Any saw that can pull a 24" bar will be too heavy for a 16-18", won't balance worth a damn, and any saw that feels "right" with an 18" bar will struggle with the longer stuff (and you will never be happy with it once you really need it to pull 20+ inches of chain). I picked up a Husqvarna 242XP for 16" work, and use a 575XP for the 20" stuff. The 242 can still pull a 18", and the 575 does great with a 24". I actually have a 372XP with a 24" bar, and run a Stihl 460 with a 28" on the end. Two of the biggest saw mistakes I have made to date were selling a Stihl 026 and Husqvarna 359, absolute perfect saws for an 18" bar. I feel I have a pretty rounded collection (also have an Echo 3300T for limb work), but I still kick myself for parting with the 026 and 359 as I lack a "comfortable" saw that does really well with an 18" bar. There are times when the 242XP isn't quite big enough, and the 575XP can get heavy. Quoted:
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I am looking for a XP series to run a 16-18" bar on but can pull a 20-24. Been checking Craigslist locally and find Stihl MS190/170/291 or a 056AV. And one 288 XP Honestly, you are better off with two different saws. Any saw that can pull a 24" bar will be too heavy for a 16-18", won't balance worth a damn, and any saw that feels "right" with an 18" bar will struggle with the longer stuff (and you will never be happy with it once you really need it to pull 20+ inches of chain). I picked up a Husqvarna 242XP for 16" work, and use a 575XP for the 20" stuff. The 242 can still pull a 18", and the 575 does great with a 24". I actually have a 372XP with a 24" bar, and run a Stihl 460 with a 28" on the end. Two of the biggest saw mistakes I have made to date were selling a Stihl 026 and Husqvarna 359, absolute perfect saws for an 18" bar. I feel I have a pretty rounded collection (also have an Echo 3300T for limb work), but I still kick myself for parting with the 026 and 359 as I lack a "comfortable" saw that does really well with an 18" bar. There are times when the 242XP isn't quite big enough, and the 575XP can get heavy. 2 saw method is the way to go as the 3 saw ways of the world are kind of over. the smaller saws today have enough nut to rip any chain and any wood you throw at it leaving out the need for a mid range saw |
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The so called "ranch" models used to be better than they are today, personally , I would not buy one. If you go with one of the pro series Husqvarna or Stihl series you won't be sorry. Even the pro saws were better prior to recent EPA rules, but they still run well and are made to last. Finding a good used pro saw, pre EPA, is a real treasure these days, but it does happen. A Husqvarna 372xp is all the saw you will ever want, but probably more saw than you need. A Stihl 026 as mentioned was a great series saw, if you can find a used one in very good to excellent condition, you should latch on to it. Otherwise, a new Stihl in the 360 361 series is probably where you want to be. id take a new "EPA" saw over an older one any day of the week |
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your correct on the power to weight on the homeowners saws. the farm boss has less power then the 261 and 3 lbs heavier. 3 pounds is a lot when running a saw for 12 hours Quoted:
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MS290 is what I would suggest. This! I've had one since 2011. It has an 18" bar. I bought it for cleanup after an outbreak of tornadoes. My dad had 30+ oaks and hickories down. The saw cut every one of them into firewood length for splitting. Some WAY bigger than the saw is rated for. Last year we cleared a 1acre drainage draw/holler to damn up for a pond. We used heavy equipment to uproot and set the trees aside. After that the same ms290 went to work stumping, topping, and cutting to length. We sent two dumptruck beds of logs to the saw mill and cut the rest for firewood. After all this work, I couldn't imagine having a better saw. Its also a good bit lighter than the farm boss and professional series saws. I own one called the 290 super farm boss. It's dead reliable and I thought it was the tits until I got my hands on a 440 with a ported cover. Holy shit. It doesn't weigh all that much more but the power is rediculous. I've come to the conclusion that the 290 has a poor power to weight ratio, good saw but heavy for power it makes. I've heard the 300 series stuff has more power for about the same weight. I bought my 440 used and I'd do it again. Go find a used pro series stihl saw, I'll never own another homeowner series saw. your correct on the power to weight on the homeowners saws. the farm boss has less power then the 261 and 3 lbs heavier. 3 pounds is a lot when running a saw for 12 hours You're right. Mine is a MS250 w/18" bar. |
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Get professional grade Stihl or Husky. The homeowner/ occasional use stuff just isn't all that great in comparison. Buy once, cry once. I got the last of the new 346XP's because I didn't want that autotune crap they put on the newer model 550XP, but any of the Husky XP stuff is good to go. Husky vs Stihl is probably best decided by which one has a good reputable dealer closest to you. I wouldn't buy anything other than Husky or Stihl, and I would get the professional grade in a 45-55CC saw. Quoted:
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I picked up a 550xp this past spring. I did a muffler mod out of the box and that little saw absolutely rips. I have to say I was skeptical about the auto tune feature but, I like it a lot. It has been flawless. The saw comes with a .325 chain but I can see it pulling a 3/8 on an 18" bar no problem. Quoted:
I'd rather have a Husky. The 460 rancher is a good all purpose saw that will cut circles around Stihl's Farm Boss. You want the one with the 20 inch bar, some come with 24 inch bars but at 60cc that's pushing the capability of the power head. Step into the XP line and look at the 550XP as well, I almost bought one, it's just so light and nimble feeling. A pro grade 50 cc saw is a joy to operate. If you must go Stihl I'd pick the 311. Get professional grade Stihl or Husky. The homeowner/ occasional use stuff just isn't all that great in comparison. Buy once, cry once. I got the last of the new 346XP's because I didn't want that autotune crap they put on the newer model 550XP, but any of the Husky XP stuff is good to go. Husky vs Stihl is probably best decided by which one has a good reputable dealer closest to you. I wouldn't buy anything other than Husky or Stihl, and I would get the professional grade in a 45-55CC saw. When I moved to my farm and had to upgrade from my Husky 350, I decided my next saw was going to be my last one and went all-pro. One of the best decisions I ever made. Another plus is the great dealer support in my local Stihl dealer. Good luck OP! |