Posted: 7/1/2015 2:46:30 PM EDT
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Just started shooting sporting clays next week and am a complete no0b when it comes to anything shotgun realated other than my smooth bore 870P.
The gun I bought came with three chokes... modified, improved cylinder and cylinder. Which one should I be using with basic 'target' loads on a sporting clays course? Or do I need additional chokes? My gun is a factory '3 gun' setup so it might not have even included the right chokes. Help a brother out 
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You'll need all three. The purpose behind sporting clays is to present as many different shots as possible. Choke tubes are pretty much a must have.
The basic three tubes should be fine for starters. Its not unusual for the serious clay shooters to run five or more. Think of choke tubes as different golf clubs in the bag. |
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Choke is going to vary with target presentation and distance. There is no "one size fits all" wrt chokes on a sporting clays course. Buy yourself a good choke wrench, and learn to match the load/choke with each station. This. Question is analogous to "Should I use a 3-wood or a 5-iron on a golf course?" |
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This. Question is analogous to "Should I use a 3-wood or a 5-iron on a golf course?" Quoted:
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Choke is going to vary with target presentation and distance. There is no "one size fits all" wrt chokes on a sporting clays course. Buy yourself a good choke wrench, and learn to match the load/choke with each station. This. Question is analogous to "Should I use a 3-wood or a 5-iron on a golf course?" Figures. What would you tell the guy who just started golfing? Def. not the 3W. |
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IC will break at least 90% of the targets you will ever see.
If it won't break a long target, chances are you'll wish for a IM or Full choke, and those targets will still be more about getting the lead and follow through right. I would leave the cylinder choke in the bag, including on a skeet field. |
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Figures. What would you tell the guy who just started golfing? Def. not the 3W. Quoted:
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Choke is going to vary with target presentation and distance. There is no "one size fits all" wrt chokes on a sporting clays course. Buy yourself a good choke wrench, and learn to match the load/choke with each station. This. Question is analogous to "Should I use a 3-wood or a 5-iron on a golf course?" Figures. What would you tell the guy who just started golfing? Def. not the 3W. Generally, the farther away a target is from you, the tighter the choke. However, there are some presentations are challenging to pick one choke...like fading teal. The clay is closer to you at the beginning, favoring an open choke. However, as it flies away, the presentation shifts to favoring a tighter choke. As a new shooter, opt to shoot last in your group. That way, you can get a look at each target presentation and plan your load/choke and engagement point. BTW...what kind of shotgun are you going to use? 
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Generally, the farther away a target is from you, the tighter the choke. However, there are some presentations are challenging to pick one choke...like fading teal. The clay is closer to you at the beginning, favoring an open choke. However, as it flies away, the presentation shifts to favoring a tighter choke. As a new shooter, opt to shoot last in your group. That way, you can get a look at each target presentation and plan your load/choke and engagement point. BTW...what kind of shotgun are you going to use? http://www.typicalshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/shotgun-choke-ranges1.jpg Quoted:
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Choke is going to vary with target presentation and distance. There is no "one size fits all" wrt chokes on a sporting clays course. Buy yourself a good choke wrench, and learn to match the load/choke with each station. This. Question is analogous to "Should I use a 3-wood or a 5-iron on a golf course?" Figures. What would you tell the guy who just started golfing? Def. not the 3W. Generally, the farther away a target is from you, the tighter the choke. However, there are some presentations are challenging to pick one choke...like fading teal. The clay is closer to you at the beginning, favoring an open choke. However, as it flies away, the presentation shifts to favoring a tighter choke. As a new shooter, opt to shoot last in your group. That way, you can get a look at each target presentation and plan your load/choke and engagement point. BTW...what kind of shotgun are you going to use? http://www.typicalshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/shotgun-choke-ranges1.jpg To this I would add: Since you're a new shooter, don't worry about your choke and load all that much. Your mechanics are 100 times more important than what choke you're shooting or what load. That is, if you're shooting a factory 7.5 shot load with an improved cylinder choke then don't worry. When you're at a station focus on how to shoot the station and your mechanics. I used to be like you and want to change chokes/shot size all the time thinking it would help me. Now, as a AA NSCA shooter I know it makes little difference. I generally shoot 1 oz 7.5 shot loads at 1,180 fps out of an O/U shotgun with a cylinder and IC choke. It's rare for me to change. I shoot in the low 90's to high 80's in tournaments, FWIW. |
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An improved cylinder will break damn near every target on a sporting clays course. This. I shoot Light Mod in both barrels of my Beretta 98% of the time. If I have an extremely long shot, or a very close target, I'll change a choke. If you're getting started, stick an IC in the gun and start shooting. You have a lot to learn about lead, target presentations and technique before you need to worry about whether you need another .005" constriction in your choke tube. |
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Choke is going to vary with target presentation and distance. There is no "one size fits all" wrt chokes on a sporting clays course. Buy yourself a good choke wrench, and learn to match the load/choke with each station. For new shooters maybe but almost all the top level shooters use fixed chokes starting at about modified constriction and going up from there. |
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Generally, the farther away a target is from you, the tighter the choke. However, there are some presentations are challenging to pick one choke...like fading teal. The clay is closer to you at the beginning, favoring an open choke. However, as it flies away, the presentation shifts to favoring a tighter choke. As a new shooter, opt to shoot last in your group. That way, you can get a look at each target presentation and plan your load/choke and engagement point. BTW...what kind of shotgun are you going to use? http://www.typicalshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/shotgun-choke-ranges1.jpg Quoted:
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Choke is going to vary with target presentation and distance. There is no "one size fits all" wrt chokes on a sporting clays course. Buy yourself a good choke wrench, and learn to match the load/choke with each station. This. Question is analogous to "Should I use a 3-wood or a 5-iron on a golf course?" Figures. What would you tell the guy who just started golfing? Def. not the 3W. Generally, the farther away a target is from you, the tighter the choke. However, there are some presentations are challenging to pick one choke...like fading teal. The clay is closer to you at the beginning, favoring an open choke. However, as it flies away, the presentation shifts to favoring a tighter choke. As a new shooter, opt to shoot last in your group. That way, you can get a look at each target presentation and plan your load/choke and engagement point. BTW...what kind of shotgun are you going to use? http://www.typicalshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/shotgun-choke-ranges1.jpg Stoeger M3K |
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OP you are getting good advice in this thread.
I suspect that the vast majority of shooters who informally or casually shoot sporting clays (or go dove/quail hunting, for that matter) have a Modified choke tube in their guns when they step up to the line. They would be better served 90% of the time with Improved Cylinder. It took me years to figure it out...but Improved Cylinder is now my default choke for 'general' shotgun shooting. I hit more birds...period. 
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I used to see those everywhere 10 or so years ago. Now nearly everyone drives a golf cart or UTV around here. |
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Take all three choke and pattern them out to at least 30 yards so you can see what they actually do. After that you will be able to make an informed decision on your own.
I'm always amazed how few people actually pattern their guns/shot/chokes . It's like not zeroing and checking dope on a rifle. |
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Take all three choke and pattern them out to at least 30 yards so you can see what they actually do. After that you will be able to make an informed decision on your own. I'm always amazed how few people actually pattern their guns/shot/chokes . It's like not zeroing and checking dope on a rifle. I tried but the place I was at had some funky ass range rules. The line almost never went cold. |
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Those are the guns for most or all of the group. No one is dragging two or three shotguns around a sporting course unless he's screwing around or testing guns. |
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Those three chokes are fine. Improved Cylinder will break most targets on a sporting clays practice course. I'd use that one stating out. Modified will give you a longer reach, and will make closer breaks more decisive. Cylinder for close in stuff. Bud's shotgun advice is always solid and perfectly stated. 
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