Posted: 1/21/2015 6:49:23 PM EDT
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Anyone had it done? I'm trying to get a general idea of pricing and options.
The outfit I had come out today talked a good game. All W-2 employees who have been with the company long-term, going to re-pipe in a way that keeps the pipe out of the attic (in my crazy house it's going to be a HARD job to do that), all drywall work, 20 year warranty. The cost including the whole house replacement and replacement of the service line is $6,300 for a 13 fixture house. Going back with CPVC. I've not had any leaks but my home was built in 1995 using PB pipe with a manifold system. It's time that the risk of leaks has greatly increased and I will have to do it before selling, so I might as well do it and get some enjoyment out of it and peace of mind. Just curious if this price seems high. It's my first quote. |
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Anyone had it done? I'm trying to get a general idea of pricing and options. The outfit I had come out today talked a good game. All W-2 employees who have been with the company long-term, going to re-pipe in a way that keeps the pipe out of the attic (in my crazy house it's going to be a HARD job to do that), all drywall work, 20 year warranty. The cost including the whole house replacement and replacement of the service line is $6,300 for a 13 fixture house. Going back with CPVC. I've not had any leaks but my home was built in 1995 using PB pipe with a manifold system. It's time that the risk of leaks has greatly increased and I will have to do it before selling, so I might as well do it and get some enjoyment out of it and peace of mind. Just curious if this price seems high. It's my first quote. stay away from CPVC that stuff is shit and will crack. I would go with Pex instead |
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I had called customer service at one of two companies who manufactures cpvc glue. One company the glue is orange, the other is yellow. Whichever company I spoke with said you can't use pvc glue, gotta be cpvc glue only. Try finding some locally in a rush, most places that stock cpvc pipe and fittings don't stock the right glue for it.
And the cpvc glue instructions specify a 6 hour cure time before pressurizing. The glue company also said they accept no liability for damage resulting from pvc glue vs. cpvc parts leaking. On such a big job, why do they choose to use cpvc? Statdler / Veiga pex manufacturing company offers a 100 year no leak warranty on the pipe, and 50 year on their brass fittings; Provided the installer is a certified trained installer. Compared to a manifold/home run system, it sounds like you're getting a branched main pipe system. Will the cold main from source to last two branches be a good large pipe, like at least 3/4"? Will the hot inlet feed and main be large also? It's ok for a smaller 1/2" branch to feed an individual fixture. 13 fixtures should maybe even be 1" mainline size then branch down to 3/4" to feed the last few individual 1/2" branches. |
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CPVC is garbage. Why are you worried about leaks in your current piping system? Your system should still have a lot of life left in it, 20 years is not that long of a span for water piping. You could replace it with pex, but poly and pex are pretty much the same thing.
ETA: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 
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I had called customer service at one of two companies who manufactures cpvc glue. One company the glue is orange, the other is yellow. Whichever company I spoke with said you can't use pvc glue, gotta be cpvc glue only. Try finding some locally in a rush, most places that stock cpvc pipe and fittings don't stock the right glue for it. And the cpvc glue instructions specify a 6 hour cure time before pressurizing. The glue company also said they accept no liability for damage resulting from pvc glue vs. cpvc parts leaking. On such a big job, why do they choose to use cpvc? Statdler / Veiga pex manufacturing company offers a 100 year no leak warranty on the pipe, and 50 year on their brass fittings; Provided the installer is a certified trained installer. Compared to a manifold/home run system, it sounds like you're getting a branched main pipe system. Will the cold main from source to last two branches be a good large pipe, like at least 3/4"? Will the hot inlet feed and main be large also? It's ok for a smaller 1/2" branch to feed an individual fixture. 13 fixtures should maybe even be 1" mainline size then branch down to 3/4" to feed the last few individual 1/2" branches. Huh? Maybe years ago when CPVC was just coming onto market, but yellow is super common today, I've never seen a shop sell CPVC without also selling the glue. Kharn Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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CPVC is garbage. Why are you worried about leaks in your current piping system? Your system should still have a lot of life left in it, 20 years is not that long of a span for water piping. You could replace it with pex, but poly and pex are pretty much the same thing. ETA: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Polybutelene will leak if exposed to chlorine in extremely low concentrations. It's ok for well water, but city water or treated and you'll get pin-holes everywhere. Kharn Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I had called customer service at one of two companies who manufactures cpvc glue. One company the glue is orange, the other is yellow. Whichever company I spoke with said you can't use pvc glue, gotta be cpvc glue only. Try finding some locally in a rush, most places that stock cpvc pipe and fittings don't stock the right glue for it. And the cpvc glue instructions specify a 6 hour cure time before pressurizing. The glue company also said they accept no liability for damage resulting from pvc glue vs. cpvc parts leaking. On such a big job, why do they choose to use cpvc? Statdler / Veiga pex manufacturing company offers a 100 year no leak warranty on the pipe, and 50 year on their brass fittings; Provided the installer is a certified trained installer. Compared to a manifold/home run system, it sounds like you're getting a branched main pipe system. Will the cold main from source to last two branches be a good large pipe, like at least 3/4"? Will the hot inlet feed and main be large also? It's ok for a smaller 1/2" branch to feed an individual fixture. 13 fixtures should maybe even be 1" mainline size then branch down to 3/4" to feed the last few individual 1/2" branches. Yeah, that's bullshit. Flowguard Gold by Oatey can be found in literally every Home Depot and Lowes in the country. Along with every plumbing supply house and hardware store that I've ever been to. I disagree with the the people who say CPVC is crap. I don't think there is anything wrong with it. That being said, Pex is a far superior product. I am off the opinion that less joints = less leaks. Done correctly, each fixture could have solid lines run to them. |
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Polybutelene will leak if exposed to chlorine in extremely low concentrations. It's ok for well water, but city water or treated and you'll get pin-holes everywhere. Kharn Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted:
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CPVC is garbage. Why are you worried about leaks in your current piping system? Your system should still have a lot of life left in it, 20 years is not that long of a span for water piping. You could replace it with pex, but poly and pex are pretty much the same thing. ETA: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Polybutelene will leak if exposed to chlorine in extremely low concentrations. It's ok for well water, but city water or treated and you'll get pin-holes everywhere. Kharn Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile That's why municipal water is garbage as well. 
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Polybutelene will leak if exposed to chlorine in extremely low concentrations. It's ok for well water, but city water or treated and you'll get pin-holes everywhere. Kharn Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted:
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CPVC is garbage. Why are you worried about leaks in your current piping system? Your system should still have a lot of life left in it, 20 years is not that long of a span for water piping. You could replace it with pex, but poly and pex are pretty much the same thing. ETA: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Polybutelene will leak if exposed to chlorine in extremely low concentrations. It's ok for well water, but city water or treated and you'll get pin-holes everywhere. Kharn Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Polybutylene (quest especially) is bad no matter where you put it. If feasible, upgrade to Pex. |
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Our first house (about 15 years ago) had polybutylene pipes in it. Neighbors house did too; his pipes burst and flooded the first floor of his house. We had them replaced because they started to leak. Because they were part of a class action lawsuit we were reimbursed for the cost. I don't remember what the total was. |
| PVC/CPVC is no better than polybutylene when under pressure. Screw that. I wouldn't use anything but copper. Remember PEX is plastic too--and plastic never stops giving off solvents, which eventually makes it brittle, which eventually will cause leaks. Copper is forever, save for a few very rare circumstances. Cu for the win! |
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I must be one of those rare guys.... seen plenty of copper fail, with hard water. Quoted:
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Copper is forever, save for a few very rare circumstances. Cu for the win! I must be one of those rare guys.... seen plenty of copper fail, with hard water. It's much less likely to fail in spectacular ways. That said, type L copper would be my first choice. Pex would be my second choice. No way in hell that I would use PVC pipe to redo a house. |
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It's much less likely to fail in spectacular ways. That said, type L copper would be my first choice. Pex would be my second choice. No way in hell that I would use PVC pipe to redo a house. Quoted:
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Copper is forever, save for a few very rare circumstances. Cu for the win! I must be one of those rare guys.... seen plenty of copper fail, with hard water. It's much less likely to fail in spectacular ways. That said, type L copper would be my first choice. Pex would be my second choice. No way in hell that I would use PVC pipe to redo a house. Personally I too would use L copper if my house was just going up. But at the end of the day it will still be easier and cheaper and less sheetrock wall destructive to run the Pex in a home that needs re-plumbing to the existing according to a plumber I have trust in. My home was built in 1967 and has USA made galvanized pipe but sooner or later it will rust out and then I will probably have to go the Pex route. |
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Personally I too would use L copper if my house was just going up. But at the end of the day it will still be easier and cheaper and less sheetrock wall destructive to run the Pex in a home that needs re-plumbing to the existing according to a plumber I have trust in. My home was built in 1967 and has USA made galvanized pipe but sooner or later it will rust out and then I will probably have to go the Pex route. Quoted:
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Copper is forever, save for a few very rare circumstances. Cu for the win! I must be one of those rare guys.... seen plenty of copper fail, with hard water. It's much less likely to fail in spectacular ways. That said, type L copper would be my first choice. Pex would be my second choice. No way in hell that I would use PVC pipe to redo a house. Personally I too would use L copper if my house was just going up. But at the end of the day it will still be easier and cheaper and less sheetrock wall destructive to run the Pex in a home that needs re-plumbing to the existing according to a plumber I have trust in. My home was built in 1967 and has USA made galvanized pipe but sooner or later it will rust out and then I will probably have to go the Pex route. 1974 house here...done in galvanized pipe... I'm halfway tempted to just re-plumb it myself with copper in a few years. Yes, I know Pex is highly recommended...but I just can't bring myself to trust plastic pipe in my own house. Besides, I'm very comfortable soldering copper pipe. |