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AR15.COM
11/16/2014 1:13:35 PM EDT
I have a few posts here describing my Tarm pellet boiler system. Basically it's a 5 zone system, 5th zone being the garage and dump zone combined. It is thermostat controlled but has an aquastat override. It isn't digital it's a dial control.

What I am trying to do is avoid the boiler going into pilot mode and building up a lot of creosote, and trying to keep it somewhat efficient. I can either try to set the override right at the same temp as the dump setting, however that can change based on what I have my water temp set at....Besides it seems pretty hard to do with a dial aquastat - not sure if a digital would really help though.

Would it make sense to install a control relay that is tied into the pilot mode control off the board so that when the boiler goes into pilot, the dump zone kicks on via relay? Seems easy enough as long as I get a relay coil to match the board voltage. I'd have to call Tarm and see if there is enough amperage to run a relay coil however....
Maybe there is even an aux out for this? I guess I'd have to call to be sure...

Wondering how anyone else might have their dump zones set up to be the most efficient?
11/16/2014 1:30:30 PM EDT
[#1]
So basically you're trying to keep the fire burning hot by essentially venting heat, prevent the system from going into low burn or pilot mode?



Depending on the outside temp that seems wasteful, but ok.




I have a Harmon with electric igniter, so I have cold burn on startup but I have 35 gal of storage on the boiler so it burns for a while before it shuts off and then the house draws from storage. It was very cold here last year and I burned 5 ton of hardwood pellets.




Maintenance is the down side to pellet boilers, spring time means cleaning the system well, I don't worry about it, just clean it.
11/16/2014 3:44:18 PM EDT
[#2]
Hmm - I might try a storage tank in the basement near the manifold - that's a good idea.

This thing is putting out so much heat that it's heating the entire house and garage, then going into pilot...well over 3k sq ft.

It does use an enormous amount of fuel....it has a 3" feed auger.  Ive seen the Harmon boilers - if this thing is going to consistently eat 10+ tons a year I may switch.

Thanks for the feedback
11/16/2014 6:50:55 PM EDT
[#3]
It just extends the heat cycle. I'm only heating 2k Sq feet, but even in the dead of the polar vortex mine was maybe at a 30% duty cycle. It could cycle the thermostat/circulator at least once without having to light the fire.



I love my boiler, it just runs. Clean it out once for every ton I burn, takes about 20 minutes of maintenance once every month or so.




I'd try some insulated storage, the more the better, plumb up your domestic hot water too...might as well.
11/16/2014 11:16:19 PM EDT
[#4]
When I had the garage floor poured, I really considered doing radiant floor heat but didn't think this thing had the sack for it.  Man was I wrong lol.  The addition and breezeway have radiant floor heat but they are over a crawlspace.  The rest of the house (1800's farm house) has old cast iron radiators....they work VERY well.  I love this system, my concern is going to be fuel consumption.  The Tarm system has incredible control customization from combustion fan speeds (on high and low cycle) to auger feed intervals, and water temp.  

We also bought a Harman Accentra insert for the addition....not sure it will really be needed but it's a nice piece.  Haven't installed it yet. I am hoping that in the in-between seasons we can run the accentra for downstairs heat, and the propane forced air backup to make up the difference upstairs.  The big boiler system really isn't necessary unless it's below 30, even then it still goes into pilot.

Going to consider a large holding tank, and also the hot water tank - however I just installed a new Rheem electric.  I suppose I could rig up an old tank with water-to-water heat exchanger....are there coils specifically built for them?

Here's a pic of my manifold: