[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Soon! 3d printer stuff inside.. (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/1/2014 1:56:48 PM EDT
Oh ya here we come dual color or dual material!
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How about a jet engine? <a href="http://s85.photobucket.com/user/outdoorgb/media/General%20Scenery/20140801_151943_zpsw8yf9nmz.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k50/outdoorgb/General%20Scenery/20140801_151943_zpsw8yf9nmz.jpg</a> Hold on ...I reread your post, looking for duel color. Let me find something. you've done dual? |
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Neat.
I'm going to use mine to print a plastic pattern for a casting for my neck cutter machine. The piece I've been using, I CNC milled out of glued (which delrin doesn't very well) and bolted delrin cutting board. I could still use it, but it is starting to get a bit worn out. Aluminum casting should be more durable. Pretty solid piece and only about 5 or 6 ounce pour, so it should be doable. Resolution doesn't need to be terribly high, either. Need to see if I can track down some worn out pistons or maybe some aluminum alloy wheels at a junkyard. |
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what no 3d printer guys on here? 
Ive had these hot ends for over a year now and finally getting to setting them up. really hate talking my Buda off, the print quality was great.. Any of you doing dual color? what slicer are you using? Are those the chess ceramic hot ends? |
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Are those the chess ceramic hot ends? Quoted:
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what no 3d printer guys on here?
Ive had these hot ends for over a year now and finally getting to setting them up. really hate talking my Buda off, the print quality was great.. Any of you doing dual color? what slicer are you using? Are those the chess ceramic hot ends? yup can go up to 800C. 
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My first print failed
It looks like the first few layers printed ok but then the next 10 or so were too hot or something and melted leaving a deformed profile that also looks like the printer head was digging in which may indicate that the Gcode I'm using isn't quite right... ETA: It appears that the board somehow moved upwards slightly and that the head is now scraping into it when it should be just slightly above it... Weird, I guess I'll have to re-level it. |
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What model are you installing those in? mendelmax 1.5 ok a KILLER upgrade. if your running a heat bed thats the thin aluminum with klapton heat sticker. get a mylar bubble windshield sunshade. cut out a square that will fit between the alum heat assembly and the sub floor of your bed. it take up the air space and as well as reflects the heat back up. my bed now sets at 110c and fluctuates a max of .1 Deg. |
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My first print failed
It looks like the first few layers printed ok but then the next 10 or so were too hot or something and melted leaving a deformed profile that also looks like the printer head was digging in which may indicate that the Gcode I'm using isn't quite right... ETA: It appears that the board somehow moved upwards slightly and that the head is now scraping into it when it should be just slightly above it... Weird, I guess I'll have to re-level it. what controller? Ramps? and PLA or ABS? |
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Shut up! This is wildly tempting... |
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what controller? Ramps? and PLA or ABS? Quoted:
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My first print failed
It looks like the first few layers printed ok but then the next 10 or so were too hot or something and melted leaving a deformed profile that also looks like the printer head was digging in which may indicate that the Gcode I'm using isn't quite right... ETA: It appears that the board somehow moved upwards slightly and that the head is now scraping into it when it should be just slightly above it... Weird, I guess I'll have to re-level it. what controller? Ramps? and PLA or ABS? You should re level before every single print. As for OP. I have been using the CubeX for a year now. It prints 3 colors/ materials. I use PLA and ABS at the same time. It's nice with a large printing surface. The heads gave me shit because of crappy insulation from factory and the self cleaning doesn't really work. Good trick is using the minimum amount of material on the spool needed and placing the spools high to have gravity help a bit. The slowed down feeding of a heavy spool has caused a lot of problems on a friends makerbotsss, 3 of them with the sane issue. |
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I posted this thread a little while ago about a study of users like us that is giving away some prizes to those who take 5 minutes to complete a survey about their 3D printing habits. Thought maybe guys in this thread would be interested if they hadn't seen it yet.
Cool prints, OP. The resolution looks quite good on that print, what printer did you use? |
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Quoted: It would just be fun to test them until they break Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I want one just to print lowers and iPhone cases trust me its over rated.. It would just be fun to test them until they break http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140324-arevo-labs-introduces-carbon-fiber-reinforced-polymers-to-3d-print-ultra-strong-parts.html wait and see  Now, if they can only perfect the printed fleshlight  |
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Everything in GD is "not good enough" or "it will never work...." or "Unicorns are better...."... Give the nerds some time. This shit is relatively new. Very soon you will have lowers that are much stronger than plastic Glocks. Then, the home made bans by the ATF will kick in and everything will be calm again. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140324-arevo-labs-introduces-carbon-fiber-reinforced-polymers-to-3d-print-ultra-strong-parts.html wait and see
Now, if they can only perfect the printed fleshlight
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I want one just to print lowers and iPhone cases trust me its over rated.. It would just be fun to test them until they break http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140324-arevo-labs-introduces-carbon-fiber-reinforced-polymers-to-3d-print-ultra-strong-parts.html wait and see
Now, if they can only perfect the printed fleshlight
eggzactaly why I'm going to this set of heads.. I plan on using some of the taulman stuff.. and other experimental materials.. |
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I have a Solidoodle $400
Sucker works great. Quality of my prints are excellent too. It's all about the calibration. I use RepetierHost Not my best...but here are some of my prints. 
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