Posted: 3/15/2014 10:55:26 PM EDT
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I'm about to print up some scaled down targets. I'll make a black silhouette in the shape of an IDPA target, put the scoring lines on the target as white dotted lines, and scale it down to represent whatever distance I want, but I want to double check one thing first.
The longest range I have easy access to is only 100 yards. I also have 50 yard ranges available, and I zero my AR-15s using the 50 yards / 200 meters "Improved Battle Sight Zero" method. So theoretically POI = POA at 50 yards and 200 meters, but my point of impact should be 2" high at 100 meters and about 2" low at 250 meters. My question: Right now I think that if I make a 1/5th scale target to represent 250m when shot at 50 yards, I should adjust the scoring lines UP by 2 full inches to compensate for the fact that I am only at 50 yards and at an actual distance of 250m my rounds would hit 2" below my point of aim. Conversely, if I printed a 1/2 scale target to represent a distance of 100 yards when shot at 50 yards, I should adjust the scoring lines DOWN by 2 inches to compensate. Am I correct? I realize that the whole point of the IBSZ is to eliminate any "thinking" and just shoot center mass all the way out to 250 meters, but I'd like to adjust my targets. And while we're at it, does anybody know how high the bullets would impact at a distance of 150 yards or 150 meters? |
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I don't mean to be a Debbie Downer here, but why are you so worried about scoring zones on an IDPA target when shot with a rifle?
If I did the math correctly, an 18 inch wide target...well, one MOA at 250 yards/meters should be 2.5 inches. So an 18 inch wide IDPA target is 7.2 MOA at 250 yards/meters. So I would think scaling it down, at hundred yards wouldn't that be 7.2 inches? Then at 50 yards, wouldn't it be half that, so 3.6 inches wide? I'm lazy, and I don't like zipping through ink, so wouldn't a 3 by 5 card work? Or a 4 by 6 card, at 50 yards. |
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Quoted:
I don't mean to be a Debbie Downer here, but why are you so worried about scoring zones on an IDPA target when shot with a rifle? Quoted:
I don't mean to be a Debbie Downer here, but why are you so worried about scoring zones on an IDPA target when shot with a rifle? You're correct that the zones themselves aren't going to matter a whole bunch. For the scaled down ones I'll probably just do the circle in the middle and the outline. Basically when I'm making these things I just want to set them up so I know if I would have just missed completely. I'm lazy, and I don't like zipping through ink, so wouldn't a 3 by 5 card work? Just graduated. They charged me for printing credits with every class I enrolled in, automatically. I have something like $1000 worth of leftover credits, and they flat out refused to refund me or even throw me a blank pack of paper. I was told "print blank sheets if you want, but use em or lose em, no refunds!", so I'm going to use them. Quoted:
Have you checked out any of the scaled down targets for Appleseed shoots? Just googled those. That's very similar to what I'm thinking, but I notice that they didn't adjust where the scoring zones are to compensate for "bullet drop". My thought was basically that if i had a simulated 300 yard target, I would aim high to compensate for the simulated long range, and the scoring zones would need to be raised above the actual silhouette to compensate. But maybe I'm over-thinking things? |
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Quoted:
You're correct that the zones themselves aren't going to matter a whole bunch. For the scaled down ones I'll probably just do the circle in the middle and the outline. Basically when I'm making these things I just want to set them up so I know if I would have just missed completely. Just graduated. They charged me for printing credits with every class I enrolled in, automatically. I have something like $1000 worth of leftover credits, and they flat out refused to refund me or even throw me a blank pack of paper. I was told "print blank sheets if you want, but use em or lose em, no refunds!", so I'm going to use them. Just googled those. That's very similar to what I'm thinking, but I notice that they didn't adjust where the scoring zones are to compensate for "bullet drop". My thought was basically that if i had a simulated 300 yard target, I would aim high to compensate for the simulated long range, and the scoring zones would need to be raised above the actual silhouette to compensate. But maybe I'm over-thinking things? Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't mean to be a Debbie Downer here, but why are you so worried about scoring zones on an IDPA target when shot with a rifle? You're correct that the zones themselves aren't going to matter a whole bunch. For the scaled down ones I'll probably just do the circle in the middle and the outline. Basically when I'm making these things I just want to set them up so I know if I would have just missed completely. I'm lazy, and I don't like zipping through ink, so wouldn't a 3 by 5 card work? Just graduated. They charged me for printing credits with every class I enrolled in, automatically. I have something like $1000 worth of leftover credits, and they flat out refused to refund me or even throw me a blank pack of paper. I was told "print blank sheets if you want, but use em or lose em, no refunds!", so I'm going to use them. Quoted:
Have you checked out any of the scaled down targets for Appleseed shoots? Just googled those. That's very similar to what I'm thinking, but I notice that they didn't adjust where the scoring zones are to compensate for "bullet drop". My thought was basically that if i had a simulated 300 yard target, I would aim high to compensate for the simulated long range, and the scoring zones would need to be raised above the actual silhouette to compensate. But maybe I'm over-thinking things? Wow! I didn't know civilian schools did that. Cha ching$$$ I am by no means a ballistics expert, but the last time I zero'ed my AR with iron sights, I asked a Marine buddy. He said if it is dead nuts on at 50 yards, it will be dead nuts on again at 200 yards. That was with 55 grainers. And he was right. I've since moved on to two ACOGs and one ELCAN.  . So it kinda solves that problem. Just get it zero'ed at 100 and the rest of BDC reticle's "rungs" should fall into place.
I don't know if you're intending to use this for any kind of competitions especially 3 gun, but this is America, we're too lazy to walk 250 yards to score targets after every shooter... AND....AND... We have lots of AR500 steel target manufacturers out there. They make stuff that "flashes" and self-resets now. Besides most 3 gun competitions are set up where any two hits on the brown cardboard = neutralized . No scoring zone or rings needed, basically. Some will let you get by with one A hit, though. |