Posted: 11/29/2013 7:58:45 PM EDT
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Since Arfcom knows all, I come seeking help. I'm trying to identify a connector type. If I could find what to look for I'm sure that I could get a replacement part from Mouser or Digi-Key. My picture here kind of sucks but it's the best I can get with my potato.
Number 1 points to the connector in question. Number 2 points to the wire that came loose from it. Disregard number 3. It's just a reference. I was showing this picture to somebody else that was not as educated as the hive.  " />
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My picture here kind of sucks Yes, it does indeed. 
My wild-assed guess would be that it's something made by Molex. It's pretty decent-sized - which might put it in the oh-so-common 0.093" pin spacing category...Or maybe not.
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There are quite a few companies making wire-to-board connectors. Molex, Tyco, JST, Hirose to name a few. The last 2 are very common in computers. The ones in the pictures are likely on .100" centers. There are a lot of metric spacings out there now. A word of warning: each of those connector sets, including contacts, probably cost less than a buck. The crimp tool to apply the contacts to the wires cost anywhere from $100 - $800. I work in the industry, and have sourced many connectors. About once a year we get a subsystem with a connector that we simply can't find a match for. It's bizarre. To repair: 1. separate the connector halves. Make a note (literally, on paper) of which way to reassemble them. 1a. Here you have a chance to fix it for the cost of a little solder. The contact where that loose wire used to land is still in the housing. It will most likely be easy to remove, they usually have a little barb that clicks into the housing. Use a sharp needle to press it in gently while pushing the contact out with a small wire. 1b. If you can get it out, solder the loose wire back to it and re insert. voila! Otherwise you need a new contact, and maybe a new housing: 2. use a magnifier and carefully inspect the 2 halves. Look for a manufacturer's logo or identifying marks embossed in the plastic housing. They might be there, but they're tiny 3. measure the pin-pin spacing 4. measure the wire gauge Now for the detective work. If there's a manufacturer's logo or name, go directly to their web site and start searching the catalog. Otherwise try the catalogs: Mouser, Digi Key, Newark, Allied. Each has a search function, and will sell you small quantities of parts, you don't have to be a big-volume assembly plant. You might also be able to get sample parts from the mfg directly. They will not give you a crimper. Without the crimper it's impossible to make a good crimp connection. You'll need to crimp them on as best you can, and solder each one. |
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I don't know, but here is a re sized cropped image of the plug in question....... hope this helps in identifying the plug http://i.imgur.com/vZ2Udry.jpg?1 Looks like a still-frame from the Zapruder film
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I don't know, but here is a re sized cropped image of the plug in question....... hope this helps in identifying the plug http://i.imgur.com/vZ2Udry.jpg?1 'possum plug. Those are rare. |
More light will fix your camera problems.
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You could solder the wire directly to the board as well if you can't find the connector you need. Use a no-clean solder whichever way you take, you don't want corrosive flux wicking past the wire insulation or on the board. It looks like it is just a wire going to your front panel. If you haven't lost any great functionality, then just don't worry about it or you could try soldering it.
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I take so few pictures any more I think potato quality is good enough. It I bought a new camera I would most likely come home with an EOS 1 or some shit. Overkill is the best kill. I was trying to keep you from having to buy another camera. To get a picture good enough to really tell what the connector is, you would probably need a Macro Lense, Lots more light and a Tripod. Most off the shelf lenses just will not do the job.
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Pull the connector. There are metal inserts holding the wires.
There will be a tab which locks each metal insert in place. Use a small screwdriver or straight pin to lift/depress this tab, and remove the metal insert missing the wire. Replace the wire, crimp it in place (be careful not to distort the insert). Solder if you can, but keep it clean, just enough to retain the wire. Reinsert the metal insert into the connector. Profit. |
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Pull the connector. There are metal inserts holding the wires. There will be a tab which locks each metal insert in place. Use a small screwdriver or straight pin to lift/depress this tab, and remove the metal insert missing the wire. Replace the wire, crimp it in place (be careful not to distort the insert). Solder if you can, but keep it clean, just enough to retain the wire. Reinsert the metal insert into the connector. Profit. This. Also it is a 3 pin molex fan plug. |
| The plug is not the same as a computer fan. About the same size though. The wires look to be 20 or maybe 22 gauge. I might see if I can modify the connector from a case fan to work. Even if I need a little drop of silicone to hold it on, it's better than nothing. I think I've gone cross eyed looking at little pictures on mouser.com. |