Posted: 11/26/2013 6:48:56 PM EDT
|
So I a tasked with removing a RRA free float tube and replacing it with a MI SS15G2.
Recommend the proper tools without breaking the bank. Go. ETA has anyone used this one? |
|
Quoted:
Will not clamp a LH upper. Nor a billet upper. GT alignment tool? I thought that was what the shank of a drill bit is for. The BEST one I have seen is one that holds the upper by the lugs in the barrel extension. No torque is put on the upper proper and it will work with any upper configuration. For the life of me I cannot remember who makes it now. Stay away from the ones that hold the upper by the takedown pin bosses. You can really eff up the pin bosses if you put too much torque to it. |
|
Quoted: Nor a billet upper. GT alignment tool? I thought that was what the shank of a drill bit is for. The BEST one I have seen is one that holds the upper by the lugs in the barrel extension. No torque is put on the upper proper and it will work with any upper configuration. For the life of me I cannot remember who makes it now. Stay away from the ones that hold the upper by the takedown pin bosses. You can really eff up the pin bosses if you put too much torque to it. Quoted: Quoted: Will not clamp a LH upper. Nor a billet upper. GT alignment tool? I thought that was what the shank of a drill bit is for. The BEST one I have seen is one that holds the upper by the lugs in the barrel extension. No torque is put on the upper proper and it will work with any upper configuration. For the life of me I cannot remember who makes it now. Stay away from the ones that hold the upper by the takedown pin bosses. You can really eff up the pin bosses if you put too much torque to it. You're thinking of the reaction rod.
|
|
Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/444133/geissele-reaction-rod-ar-15-action-wrench-steel You're thinking of the reaction rod. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Will not clamp a LH upper. Nor a billet upper. GT alignment tool? I thought that was what the shank of a drill bit is for. The BEST one I have seen is one that holds the upper by the lugs in the barrel extension. No torque is put on the upper proper and it will work with any upper configuration. For the life of me I cannot remember who makes it now. Stay away from the ones that hold the upper by the takedown pin bosses. You can really eff up the pin bosses if you put too much torque to it. You're thinking of the reaction rod. Scary you know what I'm thinking What am I thinking of now?
|
|
I just used my Wheeler block kit about 15 minutes ago to remove a float tube, front sight tower and flash hider (adding a new free float rail whenever it gets here). It works well on my cheap Model 1 A3/flattop upper, and didn't appear to scratch anything. The long insert works well for keeping gas tube position, and the vice flats keep it in place just fine. It feels very solidly built-nothing misaligned or anything like that. I haven't tried it on an A2 upper, since I don't have one anymore.
Unless you have a more unusual receiver, it should work well. |
|
Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/444133/geissele-reaction-rod-ar-15-action-wrench-steel You're thinking of the reaction rod. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Will not clamp a LH upper. Nor a billet upper. GT alignment tool? I thought that was what the shank of a drill bit is for. The BEST one I have seen is one that holds the upper by the lugs in the barrel extension. No torque is put on the upper proper and it will work with any upper configuration. For the life of me I cannot remember who makes it now. Stay away from the ones that hold the upper by the takedown pin bosses. You can really eff up the pin bosses if you put too much torque to it. You're thinking of the reaction rod. I bought mine direct from GA.......Also works great for changing a Muzzle Devise when you don't have room to clamp the barrel in vise blocks....... |