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Link Posted: 10/6/2013 8:12:35 AM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:
well I hit some crap on the hwy in a turn and then slid into a 18 wheeler and totaled her.
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Sorry for your loss, brother.















Not sorry for owning page 2!
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 8:13:54 AM EDT
[#2]
I can only speak for one engine (transverse VW 1.8T with a performance chip), but mine picked up some modest HP gains at the top end with one. 8-10hp or so from 5Krpm up, nothing lower. That is based on back to back testing on the car using VAG-COM data block 120 (data logger channel that electronically constructs torque data from various sensors).
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 8:16:41 AM EDT
[#3]
Volumetric Efficiency.. understanding it will help you greatly. The engine is only going to take in so much air. Cold air intake alone is not going to change that.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 8:29:44 AM EDT
[#4]
I made my own for $6 in HVAC ducting and picked up .2 in the 1/4mi

Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:00:38 AM EDT
[#5]
Last fall, I spent a month traveling for work, and had a slow-ass Mazda3 rental car.  Kind of fun to drive, but just gutless - especially at 10,000ft!  When I got home, I couldn't wait to drive my GTI.  It has a stage 1 tune and aftermarket intake, so it's quite a bit faster than a stock GTI and MUCH faster than that rental car.






So, I get home and jump in my GTI for a drive.  Get out of the neighborhood and nail the gas... huh.  Yeah, it was a lot faster than that Mazda, but I have to admit I was a bit underwhelmed.  Is this what I was so excited for?  Maybe I've been lying to myself, because this car just isn't quite as fun as I remembered it to be.







Later that night, I walk into the spare bedroom to grab something and there it is... my aftermarket intake... sitting in a box on the floor. I completely forgot, right before I went out of town, I took the car in to get the air conditioner fixed under warranty, and I had removed the intake.












So, I accidentally did a blind test and proved, yes, that intake makes a significant difference in the way my car drives.  I re-installed the intake and all was right with the world again.  As for filtration, my oil analysis did show slightly high silicon, which basically means more dirt is getting through compared to other cars with the same engine and oil.

 
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:05:28 AM EDT
[#6]
Ok, so from what I'm gathering with my application it probably wouldn't be much of a difference as far as trying to breathe in a few more horsepower in a ten year old engine.



Second question to any tundra owners. I don't have fog lights, but noticed the other day that my truck is pre wired for them. Do you have a manual switch to turn them on, or are they hard wired into the headlight wiring to come on with the headlights?




Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:09:20 AM EDT
[#7]
Depends what sort of engine. Some truck engines may not benefit too much from it. Removing the "family car" desresonating airbox from any vehicle made by Honda, putting on a short-pipe intake with a big filter and also changing out the header for a better flow really lets the engine breathe. Power and mileage will increase, at least it did for me.

What this guy says. The Manufacturers have to abide by some nonsense drive by intake noise federal standard. The result in many vehicles is a plastic/metal box weighing 20 lbs or so tucked up in your fenderwell. That being said you have to research your particular vehicle as sometimes that box has a bypass in it for cold weather running. The result would be your car might run rough for a couple of minutes at startup.

In my experience my 2006 Accord VTEC V6 running a K&N OEM panel filter and removing the resonator box, I picked up a bunch of mid-range power. For example, my vehicle no longer has to downshift to maintain 45 mph to climb a local hill whereas it used to. I haven't run the numbers but I think my MPG on long road trips has improved as well.   Most cars these days run Mass Airflow sensors or MAFS. If you decide to pull the resonator, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for at least 30 minutes to clear out the computer. It will re-calibrate itself for the increased airflow.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:13:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Depends. Some use crap filters that allow more air in, however they can fail to laminize it properly resulting in less efficient air entry due to turbulence.  Typically factory boxes have grid screens or similar to "straighten" the air flow out when entering. Also some filters require use of oil to trap particulate, the oil can on some cars play havoc with MAF, reguiring periodic cleaning or resulting in some failures. A kn under the hood sucks in hot air so actually produces less power. The ones in the front grill or wheel well can let in cooler air, however you also run the risk of hydrolock if you hit a deep puddle or similar.  

I had better luck with foam type filters than pleated paper types with oil.  Although I must add that the sound of a waste gate snapping through a nice mushroom filter makes it all worthwhile....
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:17:11 AM EDT
[#9]
Mostly just better throttle response unless other mods are incorporated, this can also be accomplished from opening up you stock airbox (cutting holes) on most cars.  
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:17:32 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
In my experience my 2006 Accord VTEC V6 running a K&N OEM panel filter and removing the resonator box, I picked up a bunch of mid-range power. For example, my vehicle no longer has to downshift to maintain 45 mph to climb a local hill whereas it used to. I haven't run the numbers but I think my MPG on long road trips has improved as well.   Most cars these days run Mass Airflow sensors or MAFS. If you decide to pull the resonator, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for at least 30 minutes to clear out the computer. It will re-calibrate itself for the increased airflow.
View Quote


Applies to the Gen 6 as well. IF you also replace the headers for better flow, you get more power across the whole band. Learn mode hasn't changed for any Accord, I think. Important to do that.

The resonator robs the car of a lot. It's there to make it a quiet family car.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:27:50 AM EDT
[#11]
There's usually other stuff to fix first.  Freer flowing exhaust for one, with headers and catback.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:32:45 AM EDT
[#12]
I would do the exhaust and just add in an aftermarket airfilter, like a K&N.  Besides being good for 1mil miles (that's worth the price right there), I have seen a 2-5mpg increase of every vehicle I have ever put one in, including my dad's 6.6 Turbo Detroit Diesel (2000 model).  If you let the engine breath on the front end, you need to let it breath on the back end also.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:35:45 AM EDT
[#13]
Depends on the vehicle. On my older Jeep I didn't bother because they offered no real world gain. On the newer OBDII versions it seems to help with fuel milage.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 9:58:30 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Volumetric Efficiency.. understanding it will help you greatly. The engine is only going to take in so much air. Cold air intake alone is not going to change that.
View Quote


True, however air density plays a significant role as well. Increased air flow is not the only factor.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 10:02:58 AM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
I made my own for $6 in HVAC ducting and picked up .2 in the 1/4mi

View Quote

Also, a good filter (SB filter) with some PVC piping and you're GTG.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 10:22:25 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Second question to any tundra owners. I don't have fog lights, but noticed the other day that my truck is pre wired for them. Do you have a manual switch to turn them on, or are they hard wired into the headlight wiring to come on with the headlights?

View Quote


Manual OEM switch is built into teh MFS (your headlight/turn signal switch).  Theres a spot low and left of teh steering column where you can mount a manual DIY switch on your own wiring harness.
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 10:24:22 AM EDT
[#17]
Depending on the application, they certainly do work.  I have a K&N FIPK on my '95 K1500.  It's been on there for almost 10 years.  I probably gained 5 hp, but I did it mostly for gas mileage which was 2-3 mpg better.  She's semi retired now, but still has 275K on the odometer.  On a vehicle like my G8 GT, a cold air intake is most certainly an improvement.  Depending on the type, you're talking 15-30 rwhp (documented).
Link Posted: 10/6/2013 2:59:07 PM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:


this is a good example, on the ecoboost a intake and an exhaust with some tuning can get you some really good gains. On my 5.7 hemi not so much.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I am getting one for my ecoboost ford so I can get that cool turbo whistle, and possibly a little BOV sound.

The ability to do ricer blowoff fly by's is money well spent.

Don't hate...


this is a good example, on the ecoboost a intake and an exhaust with some tuning can get you some really good gains. On my 5.7 hemi not so much.


Um...What?

Just a cheap CAI on my 08 hemi gave me a good deal more. For the newer HEMI (09+) they are saying there are even bigger gains. So I say again, Um..... what?

I feel that you have not purchased a CAI and are just speculating....refer to my first post here, otherwise you would be saying what EVERYother HEMI owner is saying which is that it adds noticeable power especially on the higher RPM's.

My intake will be here this week and I can post my results. At this point everything is factory on my truck including the factory dual exhaust.

Link Posted: 10/6/2013 3:02:58 PM EDT
[#19]
Depends heavily on the type of car and the design of the aftermarket intake.
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