[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Help me pick a chainsaw (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 5/5/2013 7:17:00 AM EDT
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I just bought a home on 8 acres of land in western Wisconsin. About half the land is heavy timber composed of a mix of poplar, oak, and maple. Many of the trees are very mature and large. We just did our final walk through yesterday and I noticed a good number of trees came down with the recent snow we just had (was about a foot of really wet and heavy snow). So, it looks like I'm in the market for a chainsaw. The home has a wood burning stove, so any wood I cut will go to the woodpile. The chainsaw will be primarily used around the home for cutting up downed trees, and perhaps on occasion for clearing a standing three here of there.
I've narrowed it down to a Husqvarna or Stihl brand, but don't know what size/power I should get? Thanks! |
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I just bought a home on 8 acres of land in western Wisconsin. About half the land is heavy timber composed of a mix of poplar, oak, and maple. Many of the trees are very mature and large. We just did our final walk through yesterday and I noticed a good number of trees came down with the recent snow we just had (was about a foot of really wet and heavy snow). So, it looks like I'm in the market for a chainsaw. The home has a wood burning stove, so any wood I cut will go to the woodpile. The chainsaw will be primarily used around the home for cutting up downed trees, and perhaps on occasion for clearing a standing three here of there. I've narrowed it down to a Husqvarna or Stihl brand, but don't know what size/power I should get? Thanks! you'll eventually need two saws. there is no "one size" chainsaw which is suitable for everything you list above. IMHO, stihl MS261 w/18" bar as a start. you may eventually want to go bigger. arfcom of saws: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/ i would read at AS for a month before buying anything. ar-jedi ETA -- when you get a saw, get yourself a pair of chaps to go with it. chain vs skin injuries are hella-ugly. http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=LW850&catID= |
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Stihl 290 (Farmboss) is a good all around saw.
What ever you buy make sure you purchase a set of safety chaps and a hard hat. I never run a saw without chaps and eye and ear protection. Go to the Stihl web site, they have a series of videos online that deal with safety and how to maintain your saw. WATCH THEM. 8nBAIT - someone who has been eomployeed in the past harvest timber |
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IMHO, you are spot on in brand choices.
I used to live on about 5 acres of woods and bought a Husqvarna with a 24" bar. I believe the model number is 460. It has been a dream to use. Starts on the first pull every time, idles great, and slices through thick trees like a hot knife through butter. Before I bought the Husqi, I had a Poulan "Wild Thing" that would not start, would not idle, and wouldn't saw through a small pine tree without much effort. The best thing that ever happened to me was when the ethanol in the gas made the oil separate out resulting in a scorched piston. The first time I used the Husqi, I couldn't help but grin at the inch long chunks of wood the saw pulled out of the trees I was cutting up. I could not be happier with this purchase. |
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IMHO, you are spot on in brand choices. I used to live on about 5 acres of woods and bought a Husqvarna with a 24" bar. I believe the model number is 460. It has been a dream to use. Starts on the first pull every time, idles great, and slices through thick trees like a hot knife through butter. Before I bought the Husqi, I had a Poulan "Wild Thing" that would not start, would not idle, and wouldn't saw through a small pine tree without much effort. The best thing that ever happened to me was when the ethanol in the gas made the oil separate out resulting in a scorched piston. The first time I used the Husqi, I couldn't help but grin at the inch long chunks of wood the saw pulled out of the trees I was cutting up. I could not be happier with this purchase. I learned long ago to only run ethanol free gasoline in my small-engine tolls/machines. Makes a huge difference. |
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Stihl 290 (Farmboss) is a good all around saw. What ever you buy make sure you purchase a set of safety chaps and a hard hat. I never run a saw without chaps and eye and ear protection. Go to the Stihl web site, they have a series of videos online that deal with safety and how to maintain your saw. WATCH THEM. 8nBAIT - someone who has been eomployeed in the past harvest timber I wonder if I can get my wife to wear the chaps....and nothing else. 
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| Ideally you need a cutting saw 24" or larger and a limbing saw 16-18" . I have a Huzky 455 and a 345XP another pro del 18". I can and have cut very large trees with a #8-20" saw. Wedges, ear pro , eye pro , and I bought chaps after a nasty Husky bite to the thigh during tornado clean up. |
| I have a similar sized place in S AL. I have a stihl 036 (the nomenclature has changed, I bought it in 1998 and it doesn't miss a beat) with a 20" bar. Then I bought a smaller stihl with I think a 16" bar, I use this one if I'm off the ground or cutting small branches. The 036 has cut up many 50-60 year old pecan trees. The diameter was so large I couldn't get my arms anywhere near around it and my dress shirt length is 33". |
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I know a lot of people like their Farm Boss saws, and they are OK for the money. You really need to ask yourself honestly how much you plan to use it. If you just cut up down trees and have moderate usage, the 290 would be OK. The 260 saws are far and away a much more comfortable saw for longer usages. I really like the 360, but depending on the size of your trees a 460 may be in order. If you will be cutting up trees larger than 24" with regularity the 460 would be a good choice. I wouldn't go up to a 660 as mine is quite heavy and ungainly for smaller wood. Also, it depends on how much it is worth to you. It is possible to cut down a huge tree with a Walmart saw, it'll just take a while. A 360 is a good all around saw, but a 460. Consider costs and see. Your best bet would be a 260/460 combo, but a 360 will do about everything you need it to as long as you don't get in a rush.
Also, you could go with a full skip chain if you wanted to use a smaller saw to drive a larger bar. It'll help with chip clearance in soft woods also. |
| If you want a saw that will last a really long time dont go with a farm boss type saw. Instead go with something professional grade. If you go with a stihl I would suggest a 440/441c or a 361/362. If you go with a husky go with something in the xp series. The 357xp is an awesome saw for its size, and the 372xp is just all around awesome, but maybe a bit big for your needs. As far as bar length goes, on any of the saws I recommended I would go with no less than a 24" bar. If you go with a 440 stihl or a 372xp I would get a 28" bar, it might be a bit long for some things but its better to have a little to much bar than not enough. |
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I make my living with chain saws, and have been a member a ArboristSite (mentioned above) since 2006. Very good advice to spend much time reading there in the chainsaw forum. Depending on how many hours per year you plan on using your saw(s), should probably be the determining factor on whether or not to buy a pro saw.
For Stihl, an apt comparison is the 290 farm boss vs. the MS261. Both generally carry 18" bars, the 290 is heavier, slower, and will wear out sooner, but costs a couple hundred less. For Husqvarna, it would be the 450 or 455 rancher vs. the 346xpne. Same as above....the 450/455 is heavier (much heavier in the case of the 455), slower, and will wear out sooner, but they're also a couple hundy less than the xp pro saw. I'd personally start w/ an 18" bar, and then look at a bigger saw a little later. The 346xp husqvarna is my favorite 18". I'm not dissing the 261....stihl makes great saws too, but as far as I'm concerned, the 346xp and the 261 are very close to equal saws, and the 346xp costs less. For bar length quidelines, I always want to keep the shortest effective bar on a powerhead. The example above w/ a 372xp w/ a 28" bar is too much bar for that (awesome) powerhead. It can pull that chain, but slower, and the powerhead is out of balance w/ the long bar on it. I run a 24" on my 385xp (also have a 32" for it), and with the shorter bar it cuts faster and carries less weight. My recommendation: 1. 346xpne 18" 2. ms261 18" Second saw later: 1. used 372xp (unless you can find one new, which I doubt) 24" 2. used ms361 24" Whole 'nuther game buying used saws.....you NEED to know alot more to buy used saws without getting screwed. |
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For your stated purposes I would recommend a Stilh 362 R (full wrap handle) with a 25" bar. It's a middle grade pro saw. Not cheap, but not something you will outgrow either. If you ever want to do any serious FALLING of standing timber you will want the full wrap handle. The 362 series is an ideal middle ground between power and light weight and the power head balances almost perfectly with a 25" bar, which is the upper end of the recommended length for this saw. A longer bar keeps your face further away from the action and lets you limb and buck in a more upright posture, which prevents back fatigue, which in turn also means more safety. More power also means you cut through wood faster, which also enhances safety, especially when dealing with wood under tension/compression.
If you want some serious advice from someone in the know shoot me an IM. |
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I own a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and a Jonsered 2149 Turbo.
Both are high quality saws manufactured by Husqvarna. Start right up and servicing dealers live right up the road from me if I need them. I heat with wood in Northern Michigan and own some wooded properties so I use them more than just a bit. I worked commercial pulp wood in the 1970's and those were the same brands we used back then and it is the same brands I see everyone using where I live. I think TSC is running a deal right now on the 455 Rancher |
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Get 2 saws so you can rescue the first one with the second. Never yank hard on a saw stuck in the cut. Plastic wedges will prevent that. Of course two days ago I left mine in my vehicle so I had to go get the second chainsaw out of the vehicle to get the first one out of a big log. |
| Buy husky or stihl. Whichever has better dealer support in your area. For all the people who say one is better than the other, 98% are saying that because they bought one instead of the other. Dealer support is the deciding factor for me. If my saw goes down, I want to know tha I can ge parts. |
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Buy husky or stihl. Whichever has better dealer support in your area. For all the people who say one is better than the other, 98% are saying that because they bought one instead of the other. Dealer support is the deciding factor for me. If my saw goes down, I want to know tha I can ge parts. My dealer has Husky's and Stihl's, so I can choose which I like better, AND get all the parts needed. I use Stihl top handles, and Husky rear handles. Really tho, with a pro saw from either it's difficult to go wrong. |
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http://www.stihlusa.com/Imgs/Product/1014/STIHL-MotoMix/CorpMain.png This solves all of my Stihl fueling problems. Expensive solution.....much cheaper to buy quality synthetic oil and no ethanol hi octane gas. Some days I'd go through 8 of those cans, when I could have spent $10-$12 for 2.5 gal of saw gas, and not had cans to throw away. But.....for rare use those little cans will save you money in saw maintenance, so they do have their place. |
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http://www.stihlusa.com/Imgs/Product/1014/STIHL-MotoMix/CorpMain.png This solves all of my Stihl fueling problems. Expensive solution.....much cheaper to buy quality synthetic oil and no ethanol hi octane gas. Some days I'd go through 8 of those cans, when I could have spent $10-$12 for 2.5 gal of saw gas, and not had cans to throw away. But.....for rare use those little cans will save you money in saw maintenance, so they do have their place. When the closest place that has pure gas is over 60 miles away this is my solution. I don't use my saw that much, mostly it's to clear the single track trails after the snow melts or to do some urban tree trimming and to fuel up the weed whacker. I do run 92 octane alcohol gas with synthetic oil in my 2 stroke dirt bike, it's jetted for that shit though. |
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Get 2 saws so you can rescue the first one with the second. Never yank hard on a saw stuck in the cut. So true. I live on wooded acreage also. The farm boss has been super reliable And plenty big. My second saw is a smaller Stihl for limbing. Helps avoid lifting a heavy saw and is maneuverable. Chaps a good idea. Ask our local ER. Good luck. |
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Everyone is going to tell you farmboss, cause their grandpa had one and they are still running.
THE NEW FARMBOSS IS NOT THE SAME THING. It's junk. Plastic. Stihl pro line and husky pro line are equal. I have both. Consider a 50cc and or a 70cc saw. 50 is lighter, better for clearing paths limping etc. 70 is heavier, good for firewood, felling. I think the stihl 261, 361 series, are great. |
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Get 2 saws so you can rescue the first one with the second. Never yank hard on a saw stuck in the cut. you can cheat by simply getting an extra bar and chain. if you get the saw stuck, simply unbolt the powerhead from the stuck bar and chain. mount the 2nd bar and chain, and finish the work. in reality for most folks this just means getting a second bar, since everyone should have more than one chain anyway. you can get a non-OEM bar from Bailey's (etc) for next to nothing; it's cheap insurance. ar-jedi |
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I have a Makita 6401 I have been very pleased with. Not sure if is now, but it used to be the highest power to weight ratio saw. Makita saws such as the DCS6401 are German-made Dolmar's. DCS = dolmar chain saw. these are excellent saws, and you can sometimes buy a well cared for one from the Home Depot rental counter for pretty cheap. http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=44 ar-jedi |
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Stihl:391 is the largest "Farm & Ranch" series or get the pro series.
Don't get anything less than the 20" and get the Chisel Tooth Chain. Husq's are good saws (made by Jonsered) but the the 2 are like comparing a big block to a small block....and Stihls are not priced any higher than the Husq's when you compare apples to apples as they were 10 years ago. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Stihl farmboss. Very good all around saw.  Another pleased Farmboss owner  I've run a 16", 18", and 20" bars. It's a little sluggish with the 20", little over powered with the 16", but does quite well with the 18" and a chisel point chain on it. I have had zero problems with it while running Stihl oil mixed with premium gas (higher octane for the high compression ratio and no ethanol). One slight disadvantage, if you'd call it that, is the weight of Stihl saws. They do tend to be a little heavier than the competition, but I feel they make up for it in brute power and reliability. I love cutting with people that have a Poulan or the like and stand there pulling like crazy to get their saws started, then you give the Stihl one pull and it fires right up and cuts all day long. |