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Posted: 10/3/2002 12:08:37 AM EDT
I'm getting ready to build a "Cartridge Board" for myself (always wanted one) and I was selecting woods to use to-day at the local - but here's the rub. Anyone know where I can find quarter-round mouldings in Macawood, Cocobolo, or Bloodwood? I think the colours of these woods will provide a nice - but not excessive - contrast with the polished brass of the cases, but I haven't seen anyone who would have them in quarter-rounds. I can find sheets, panels, and 1x1 strips, but I'd like to find 1x1 or 1.5x1.5 (finished size) quarters. I've already figured out how to mount the cartridges after I've prepared them (small brass studs) but if I'm going to do this, I want to do it RIGHT! Walnut is just too dark, and working in Pine or Doug Fir and staining it can result in uneven colours (I've seen boards done in Walnut - I don't like them.) I do have some exotic hardwood flyers, but no-one is listing ANY quarter-round mouldings... FFZ
Link Posted: 10/3/2002 12:39:59 AM EDT
Maybe it's not an off the shelf item. Can'tyou router theedges? Try: [url]http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=Cocobolo+mouldings[/url] Some do custom jobs. My favoriteis "Lumber Lady".com
Link Posted: 10/3/2002 6:50:11 AM EDT
As far as I know, there is no distributor that makes molding as you describe in exotics. Just get what wood you like and a carbide routing bit, and make them yourself. Really easy to do, and its the same thing a custom house would do if you were to order it. I have one of the largest exotic wood distributors in the country right near me, Email me if you need help.
Link Posted: 10/3/2002 6:56:47 AM EDT
Link Posted: 10/3/2002 7:40:09 AM EDT
You are not going to find mouldings in the exotics. There's no money in it for the distributors since the exotics wear out tools real quick. Sharpening straight blades for planers and jointers is one thing, but resharpening moulding knives that have gone through too many feet of cocobolo is not easy. People who work with exotics a lot probably use more hand tools than machines BTW. Their goal is to get the thing to final finish with minimal recourse to sanding (which is not real easy with some of these ultra dense, ultra hard exotics). A super sharp moulding plane blade will yield a glassy finish when everything is done right. Many exotics don't glue well at all thanks to the large amounts of natural oils and resins in the wood. Best results can be had by stripping the oil from the surfaces to be glued with acetone, then drying it, immediately prior to applying glue. Probably a mechanical joint will be more reliable, especially if backed up with glue or epoxy. You can machine these woods, but you might have to expend some serious sanding time getting the machineing marks out. However, you'll probably have an easier time getting someone to route out the 16 feet of moulding you need on a router table, than you will finding a master craftsman or woman capable of hand planing the moulding into the wood with super-sharp moulding planes. BTW, if you opt to do this yoursewlf, test cuts in scrap stock are invaluable. They'll tell you how fast you need to feed the stock to avoid tearout and excessive machinemarks, and ensure you get the settings and adjustments right. Light cuts are always a great idea with delicate work, and knocking off excess stock with a saw first can save a lot of wear and tear on your router. A shaper is even better than a router for this application, if you either have one, can get access to one, or know someone with a shaper. If borrowing someone else's tools (especially and insitution like a trade school) buy your own shaper blades or router bits to ensure sharpness. Consider buying top of the line cutters to ensure the sharpest, cleanest cut. Have fun
Link Posted: 10/3/2002 11:19:19 PM EDT
I kinda figured, but thought I should ask anyhow... I have a router, and plan on getting a table one of these days (I need one for other projects anyhow - utility boxes and the like.) The woods I've picked aren't massively "hard" - kinda like going from Brass to Iron - but not Steel. Naturally, I would be using newer bits, as I want this thing to look SHARP! When I finally get going on it, I will post pics. I expect this to take six months or thereabouts, and I'll probably need some help from other ARFCOM-ers here making my inert rounds for the boards (I don't have Weatherby dies or anything else like that, but I have been getting my hands on cases to MAKE into the rounds!) I'll repost after we get done moving and it looks like I'll be starting on this. While I think the PROCESS of moving is about as much fun as a deep rectal itch, I DO look forward to the idea of having a garage that is: 1) MINE, all mine! 2) Big enough to work in 3) Big enough to pull a cehicle in to work on 4) MINE, all MINE! I can throw anyone out anytime I want! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! FFZ
Link Posted: 10/3/2002 11:50:51 PM EDT
Just noticed you said inert rounds.... Is it bad to have a collection of live rounds? mine is, including some seriously old shotshells and rifle cartridges.... Am I taking a risk? For the hardwoods.... if you have the skill, a sharp hand chisel phsed along can make nice edges..... If you have the skill and tools (I do not, but watching my grandad work is truly a wonder)
Link Posted: 10/4/2002 2:42:10 PM EDT
I see no reason why a collection of live round - KEPT OUT OF SUN AND AWAY FROM HEAT - should pose a significant problem - I'd just prefer to keep mine inert. Besides, since I plan on mounting by drilling and tapping in the primer pocket, I'll have to "inert" everything anyhow. Going with the primer pocket mounting (onto small brass studs) will allow the entire cartridge profile to be visible, while still providing an "invisible" mount, and I can mount the assembled, cleaned, and prepared cartridge without having to do anything to it afterwards. Make sense? If you have a better idea, I'm always willing to listen... FFZ
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