Posted: 3/25/2013 3:33:12 PM EDT
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Tried my new nikon force xr eer scope.
At 100 yards, I moved the reticle as far up as it would go and it is still 6" short. I cannot move the reticle up any more. Can I shim it? Would a small 1 layer piece of aluminum foil below the front ring move it up enough? I would like it a couple inches higher than bullet impact so I can move the scope more in the middle range. Thanks. |
| Cut a proper sized shim from a soda or beer can. It works fine. I would be more concerned about why it needs the shim. That usually points to the wrong scope mount or a rifle problem. With modern scopes and their huge adjustment range this is pretty unheard of anymore. Are you using a canted base? |
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I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to say.
Moved the reticle up and 6" short? Do you mean the reticle is all the way up and the rifle still shoots 6 inches high at 100 yards? Do you have a wedge base installed? Are you sure you have matched rings and bases (if two piece) No, a piece of foil won't get you six moa. Also, you can't shim a base like that. The rings will be parallel but not coaxial. Bad juju. What gun, rings, bases? |
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Quoted:
I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to say. Moved the reticle up and 6" short? Do you mean the reticle is all the way up and the rifle still shoots 6 inches high at 100 yards? Do you have a wedge base installed? Are you sure you have matched rings and bases (if two piece No, a piece of foil won't get you six moa. Also, you can't shim a base like that. The rings will be parallel but not coaxial. Bad juju. What gun, rings, bases? This. I have 2 leupold quick release 1" med height rings. Bought as a set. Gun is this, scope, everything. 
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Cut a proper sized shim from a soda or beer can. It works fine. I would be more concerned about why it needs the shim. That usually points to the wrong scope mount or a rifle problem. With modern scopes and their huge adjustment range this is pretty unheard of anymore. Are you using a canted base? It's a pistol scope. However, the BDC is for .308. I think the ultimak rail is contoured and lowers as it moves towards the front sight. |
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Tried my new nikon force xr eer scope. At 100 yards, I moved the reticle as far up as it would go and it is still 6" short. I cannot move the reticle up any more. Can I shim it? Would a small 1 layer piece of aluminum foil below the front ring move it up enough? I would like it a couple inches higher than bullet impact so I can move the scope more in the middle range. Thanks. What type of rifle? What type of base? What type of rings? Also, think about this shimming strategy; do you want to shim the front or rear ring? Draw a sketch to understand. There's a possibility that the scope is defective. After seeing what you're shooting - It's possible the rail is not pointing in the right direction, and it will be difficult to get a measurement to determine that. It should slope down toward the front of the rifle, not up. If the scope is okay, a set of Burris rings with inserts will get you enough elevation. Shimming the rings is generally a bad practice as it bends the scope body when the screws are cranked down. That doesn't stop most people. You can make a quick test with a piece of paper on the bottom of the rear ring, with the screws just tight enough to hold everything together. Beer can shims pretty much guarantee the finish on the scope body will get scratched. |
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Burris Signature rings with Pos-Align Offset Inserts. http://www.burrisoptics.com/pdf/sigrings.pdf
Only rings I use, with or without offset. Polymer ring inserts grip scope better and don't damage scope. |
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Order the Larue SPR-S scope mount with 10MOA down angle and mount it in reverse. http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-spr-s-mount-lt-158 ETA: You might try swapping mounts front to back and see if it changes anything. |
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Order the Larue SPR-S scope mount with 10MOA down angle and mount it in reverse. http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-spr-s-mount-lt-158 ETA: You might try swapping mounts front to back and see if it changes anything. You could try, but I doubt it would change. Looks like the mount is less than stellar. For those who recomend shimming: Point your index fingers at each other, out in front of you, then keep them parallel and move one up. That is what you're doing to the scope when you shim. Making a "Z". Yes, it's slight and you can get by with it but it's not the right way to do it. |
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Order the Larue SPR-S scope mount with 10MOA down angle and mount it in reverse. http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-spr-s-mount-lt-158 ETA: You might try swapping mounts front to back and see if it changes anything. You could try, but I doubt it would change. Looks like the mount is less than stellar. For those who recomend shimming: Point your index fingers at each other, out in front of you, then keep them parallel and move one up. That is what you're doing to the scope when you shim. Making a "Z". Yes, it's slight and you can get by with it but it's not the right way to do it. Great way to illustrate that. |
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Order the Larue SPR-S scope mount with 10MOA down angle and mount it in reverse. http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-spr-s-mount-lt-158 ETA: You might try swapping mounts front to back and see if it changes anything. You could try, but I doubt it would change. Looks like the mount is less than stellar. For those who recomend shimming: Point your index fingers at each other, out in front of you, then keep them parallel and move one up. That is what you're doing to the scope when you shim. Making a "Z". Yes, it's slight and you can get by with it but it's not the right way to do it. You are 100% right....in a perfect world. The tolerances in most scopes,mounts,and lately rifles makes it a moot correct point however. Most scopes you are mounting in commercial mounts on factory drilled holes are out of alignment by way more than the width of a beer can shim. The Army has been shimming the M3A optic on the M24 rifle since the first ones came from the factory. The BDC is set up for a 100M zero and to have very little under that so most of your movement can be used in positive elevation to get the 40-45 MOA up you need to get one turn to 1000M. This combined with different shooters,lots of ammunition and rifles makes a 100M zero.... interesting... at times. Again,not saying you are wrong and certainly not saying the Army is right,but a stacking of various tolerances makes shimming necessary in some circumstances,like the OPs |
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Quoted:
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Order the Larue SPR-S scope mount with 10MOA down angle and mount it in reverse. http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-spr-s-mount-lt-158 ETA: You might try swapping mounts front to back and see if it changes anything. You could try, but I doubt it would change. Looks like the mount is less than stellar. For those who recomend shimming: Point your index fingers at each other, out in front of you, then keep them parallel and move one up. That is what you're doing to the scope when you shim. Making a "Z". Yes, it's slight and you can get by with it but it's not the right way to do it. You are 100% right....in a perfect world. The tolerances in most scopes,mounts,and lately rifles makes it a moot correct point however. Most scopes you are mounting in commercial mounts on factory drilled holes are out of alignment by way more than the width of a beer can shim. The Army has been shimming the M3A optic on the M24 rifle since the first ones came from the factory. The BDC is set up for a 100M zero and to have very little under that so most of your movement can be used in positive elevation to get the 40-45 MOA up you need to get one turn to 1000M. This combined with different shooters,lots of ammunition and rifles makes a 100M zero.... interesting... at times. Again,not saying you are wrong and certainly not saying the Army is right,but a stacking of various tolerances makes shimming necessary in some circumstances,like the OPs Do they lapp them after shimming? You're right on the average commercial set up being out. I lapp my rings before setting any scope more expensive than a tasco in them. 
You're probably right that the yield of the scope tube, rings, etc allow for it to work. I'm a toolmaker, though, and just the thought makes my teeth hurt. 
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