Posted: 3/25/2013 11:51:31 AM EDT
Got one coming in the mail, pretty excited. Any pro tips? Am I going to feel the need to sharpen everything I can get my hands on? 
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Quoted: Quoted: which one did you get/what did you pay. Apex 3 Kit, $242 shipped. I think that's everything I would want except the polishing tapes. thats the one ive been drooling over. got a few more things to move on ebay then should have the cash to burn on one |
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Bah, learn to do it freehand.
I have up until now, but to get more precise by hand I'd have to invest in better stones and more stuff anyways. What stones are you using now? If they're even remotely decent, $20 worth of diamond paste and leather will take the edge all the way to OMFG that's sharp. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Bah, learn to do it freehand.
I have up until now, but to get more precise by hand I'd have to invest in better stones and more stuff anyways. What stones are you using now? If they're even remotely decent, $20 worth of diamond paste and leather will take the edge all the way to OMFG that's sharp. It's a crappy old Smith's tri-hone, and I have some smaller Arkansas stones for small pocket knives. They're all concave at this point. |
| I've got a sharpmaker, spyderco bench stones, some norton stones, an edge pro, various grinder stones and a set of buffing wheels. I found the stones for the edge pro to be too short. It takes me far too long to put an edge on things with it. Mostly I use the spydeco bench stones to make or change a bevel and the buffing wheels to get the last little bit and tune up. A good edge turns into an amazing edge with some red and white compound. |
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Quoted:
I've got a sharpmaker, spyderco bench stones, some norton stones, an edge pro, various grinder stones and a set of buffing wheels. I found the stones for the edge pro to be too short. It takes me far too long to put an edge on things with it. Mostly I use the spydeco bench stones to make or change a bevel and the buffing wheels to get the last little bit and tune up. A good edge turns into an amazing edge with some red and white compound. too short as in each stroke doesn't remove enough metal? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Bah, learn to do it freehand.
I have up until now, but to get more precise by hand I'd have to invest in better stones and more stuff anyways. What stones are you using now? If they're even remotely decent, $20 worth of diamond paste and leather will take the edge all the way to OMFG that's sharp. It's a crappy old Smith's tri-hone, and I have some smaller Arkansas stones for small pocket knives. They're all concave at this point. Flatten them on the side of a cinder block. Seriously. The dies/forms used in the production of cinder blocks have unbelievably flat sides, and as a result so do the blocks. I flatten a Sigma Power Select II 240 grit stone on one, and it works great. Arky stones should be no problem. For knives, I use a DMT XF (~1200 grit) and XXF (~8000 grit), and then move to 1μ diamond paste on MDF and then finish with 0.5μ diamond paste on leather. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I've got a sharpmaker, spyderco bench stones, some norton stones, an edge pro, various grinder stones and a set of buffing wheels. I found the stones for the edge pro to be too short. It takes me far too long to put an edge on things with it. Mostly I use the spydeco bench stones to make or change a bevel and the buffing wheels to get the last little bit and tune up. A good edge turns into an amazing edge with some red and white compound. too short as in each stroke doesn't remove enough metal? It would be far more effective if you weren't reversing the stroke so often. Also, don't ride the stone all the way to the metal ramp on the hand-side of the stone. No matter what they promise it will leave scuffs in a highly polished blade. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Bah, learn to do it freehand.
I have up until now, but to get more precise by hand I'd have to invest in better stones and more stuff anyways. What stones are you using now? If they're even remotely decent, $20 worth of diamond paste and leather will take the edge all the way to OMFG that's sharp. It's a crappy old Smith's tri-hone, and I have some smaller Arkansas stones for small pocket knives. They're all concave at this point. Flatten them on the side of a cinder block. Seriously. The dies/forms used in the production of cinder blocks have unbelievably flat sides, and as a result so do the blocks. I flatten a Sigma Power Select II 240 grit stone on one, and it works great. Arky stones should be no problem. For knives, I use a DMT XF (~1200 grit) and XXF (~8000 grit), and then move to 1μ diamond paste on MDF and then finish with 0.5μ diamond paste on leather. When I was using stones that would scallop I'd throw a handful of silica sand on the flat side of a cinder block and give the stone a couple of swirls. It would flatten them right up, posthaste. |
| First two results were sort of discouraging. Sharp, but not razor sharp...I think I am rolling the edge trying to do it the way the inventor does in the instructional DVD (no pressure holding the knife to the machine). I'm going to try it again death-gripping the knife to the machine and see if I get better results. |