Posted: 1/27/2013 2:14:28 PM EDT
|
Just wonder what reliablity issues others have experienced.
I'll start: Ruger GP-100 - cylinder locked up tight with a flake of burned powder stuck between the cylinder and ejector collar. S&W M19 - crane bent to shooting hot (out of the book) loads with 125gr. bullets. Gun locked up. S&W (multiple) - cylinder release screw loosening. S&W (mulitiple) - ejector rod looseing. Guns locked up. S&W (multiple) - high primer dragging on frame. S&W (multiple) - hammer spring screw loosening. Light primer strikes. |
|
My Ruger Blackhawk .357 has never, ever failed. Not once. Same with my Smith and Wesson M27-2. I have had my Model 66 lock up with too hot loads. I have had my Ruger Security Six fail to fire once. The primer required a second strike. I chalk this single failure up to a too light spring. (The revolver was customized before I got it) |
| I have been carrying a S&W 442 for many years and have put well over 7000 rounds through it. It has never failed me. I carry it on my ankle it has seen mud, sweat, water, salt water and been beat and banged on everything. I did have the cylinder button screw loosen once, blue loc tite fixed it and never had another issue. |
| I have had Smiths break the hammer nose a few times. All the screw loosening you mentioned does happen. You have to proactively tighten the screws usually when you clean the gun. Ejector rods will unscrew sometimes. Revolvers have been extremely reliable for me overall but you do have to maintain them. |
|
Quoted:
Ruger super redhawk, got sandy, locked up tight. Had to take it apart to get it back in service. Lesson learned: don't get sand in your sensitive areas Funny how that advice applies to so much more than just wheelguns! 
Seriously, I never fired revolvers enough to experience problems, but I am well aware they are not always the uber-reliable mechanisms some people seem to think they are. |
|
Never had problems with any of my revolvers, they are all S&W's of the J, K, L and N frame designations. Some are inherently stronger due to their manufacturer date but all have performed admirably.
Anything mass produced can have issues and any firearm that is used moderately to heavily will need attention in certain areas. Your mileage may vary. |
|
Quoted:
Virtually everything you listed is a routine maintenance or cleaning issue. I'd rather not stop in the middle of a gunfight to clean the sand out of my revolver. I'm not saying a auto would have worked any better, but I think it would have fared a better chance and would have been easier to fix. Revolvers have some fascinating clockwork, I love 'em, but I can see why the world has gone to the automatic. It's not just about capacity... |
|
Both have their places. There are things the revolver can do the auto cant. I teach carrying a revolver as a BUG because in a ground fight or CQB you can press the revolver into the bad guy and fire, you cant do that with an auto without it going out of battery. For the woman carrier or less experience homeowner who want protection, the revolver is a great choice because all you do is point and shoot, if it dont go bang pull the trigger again. Compared to teaching tap, rack ready drills etc.
No one is suggesting stopping in the middle of a gun fight to clean your gun, if you maintain your weapon systems whether it an auto, revolver, M4 or SMG it will perform as its designed to. |
|
Used to shoot a variant of the PPC course of fire. It was common to get some unburned powder under the star so I kept a toothbrush on my belt and after a string I'd give that area a quick swipe. From that I learned to NOT lube under the star. I had the hammer nose break off after 100 rds on a brand new Smith mod 14-4. After repair its gone 150k live rounds and at least 2-3x cycles of dry fire with no issues.
Locked up an air weight J frame shooting Glasers. The 4th and 5th bullets pulled loose. I immediately ceased all carry of speciality ammo ESP Glasers. A few cases of high primers from my reloads (my fault all the way). ANY gun can fail and will eventuality. I trust my wheelguns and my semi's because I know how they're maintained. |
|
One of my guys couldn't open the cylinder on his S&W M19. Since we were at the range and I didn't have any tools on me, I taught him to tap the cylinder against the heel of his boot while simultaneously pushing on the cylinder release. Despite the handicap, he was able to complete his course of fire and qualify.
Another fellow brought his Colt Python to me and complained that the cylinder wouldn't close. There was so much dirt built up in the frame, it couldn't close. I cleaned it and it was good to go. |
| Fucking COLT PYTHON - That's right all you colt bigots. Action locks up COMPLETELY after a couple rounds, or any time you walk the hammer down. I've stripped it down to the frame and oiled it, cleaned it. Is sitting with colt right now as they figure their own shit out. |
|
I'll just stick with a Glock 19 thanks.
Revolvers can be great teaching tools and are pleasurable to shoot. The GP100 is a nice gun. It is inexpensive, solid, and soft shooting. It's DA trigger sucks, but it is really nice in SA. It's kind of homely, but it does the job well. S&W on the other hand is much more attractive, but not as sturdy as the OP has noted. Which doesn't matter for me, because I'd never use it as a prybar. |
Get a Glock |
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just wonder what reliablity issues others have experienced. I'll start: *snip* S&W (multiple) - high primer dragging on frame. *snip* That's your fault, buddy. True. Reload ALOT and it happens. Just haven't had slow down a Ruger. I do reload, and it has happened... with my former Ruger GP100. It's cool, though. All you've got to do is force the cylinder shut and pull the hammer really hard, and it'll finish seating the primers for you.
*Disclaimer- Although that works, it's probably not a good idea, so don't do it. |
|
Taurus J frame knock off: small screw that has the detent and spring that holds clyinder/ swing arm in is stripped a little. It still function in every way but easier to pull the cylinder assembly out front when cylinder is fully open.
Llama POS 22lr has to much play in the cylinder and the rim fire round sometimes fail to hold in primer/powder during fire. Shot out until it died by previous owner and givin to me for free. Thats it, no failures from any others. They are very reliable. |
|
Quoted:
Fucking COLT PYTHON - That's right all you colt bigots. Action locks up COMPLETELY after a couple rounds, or any time you walk the hammer down. I've stripped it down to the frame and oiled it, cleaned it. Is sitting with colt right now as they figure their own shit out. Yup, love me some Colt Pythons, but the most trouble I ever had with a revolver was a 4" blue one. First trip to the range, after about 2 boxes of 50, it starts clicking instead of banging. Open the cylinder, the primer was hitting right on the edge of the primer. It had gone way out of time. I sent it back to Colt. Three weeks later, it comes back fixed, free of charge (except for the shipping because I was forced to overnight it). Took it to the range again. Went bang every time, but, again, after about 2 boxes of 50, the groups started moving left, WAY left. Opened the cylinder, noticing the ejector rod was dragging on the rod shroud on the barrel. At first I thought the rod was bent, but on further inspection, the barrel had turned about 1/4". Started turning it and unscrewed it completely from the frame. Back it went. When it came back, I sold it. Still like Pythons. If the prices weren't so stupid on them now, I'd buy another one. 
|
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Fucking COLT PYTHON - That's right all you colt bigots. Action locks up COMPLETELY after a couple rounds, or any time you walk the hammer down. I've stripped it down to the frame and oiled it, cleaned it. Is sitting with colt right now as they figure their own shit out. Yup, love me some Colt Pythons, but the most trouble I ever had with a revolver was a 4" blue one. First trip to the range, after about 2 boxes of 50, it starts clicking instead of banging. Open the cylinder, the primer was hitting right on the edge of the primer. It had gone way out of time. I sent it back to Colt. Three weeks later, it comes back fixed, free of charge (except for the shipping because I was forced to overnight it). Took it to the range again. Went bang every time, but, again, after about 2 boxes of 50, the groups started moving left, WAY left. Opened the cylinder, noticing the ejector rod was dragging on the rod shroud on the barrel. At first I thought the rod was bent, but on further inspection, the barrel had turned about 1/4". Started turning it and unscrewed it completely from the frame. Back it went. When it came back, I sold it. Still like Pythons. If the prices weren't so stupid on them now, I'd buy another one. Must be one of those later Pythons. Earlier Pythons had a tapered barrel shank that was crush-fit into the frame. The newer Pythons have a straight taper barrel shank. Regarding the first Python, I hope Colt cleans the lockwork. If the cylinder is refusing to rotate, then the bolt is failing to drop. The tail may need adjusting so that it contacts positively with the rebound lever shelf. |