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Posted: 8/4/2002 12:30:20 PM EDT
Going to be staining my deck & was wondering what will work better applying the stain. Should I use a hand pump type sprayer or a Wagner type power sprayer? The deck is about 12'x 16' with a bunch of spindels in the railings. Thanks for any info.
Link Posted: 8/4/2002 1:02:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/4/2002 1:05:34 PM EDT by LWilde]
My deck is 12x32. We have lived here now for six years and stained the deck twice. The first time, I tried the pump...and it didn't work worth a damn. I finally gave in and went with the rollers. Get the correct rollers with the right length nap and some pole extenders so you don't have to bend down. A couple of paint trays and a pile of rags and you're ready to go. I also purchased some large nylon brushes good for synthetic oil-based paints. We used them for the deck rails, to cut in the deck edges, the 12x12 support beams and the pickets. I used between 3-4 gallons for my deck. If your deck is not new it most likely requires a washing. Get yourself a gallon or so of a good bleach-based wash (Watch out for your garden plants underneath and around the deck!) and follow the directions. This will really pay for itself in the end. The first time we stained, we used a semi-opaque, almost clear stain/preservative. Didn't work all that well. Momma made me use a real deck stain this last time and it worked a lot better. Before I stained the deck this last time after about four years of use, I had to replace about 200 linear feet of lumber, including the rail tops...because I'd used the more expensive but poorer quality it turned out, stain on the first application. After I laid the new lumber, I did the stain job. Looks great and seems to be holding up well. Agree about the Thompsons. Don't waste your money. Good luck on the sprayer if you choose to use one. The rolling is a pain but very effective. Let us know how it turns out. I'm curious to know. [soapbox]
Link Posted: 8/4/2002 1:10:33 PM EDT
What's the problem with Thompson's? I hear lot's of ads for it. What about that Penefin (sp?)?
Link Posted: 8/4/2002 1:32:29 PM EDT
i used an old paint edger to apply tompsons colored waterseal, screwed it to a shop broom handle and it made short work of my 10x20 deck
Link Posted: 8/4/2002 1:54:36 PM EDT
If it's cedar, try to get your hands on this stuff called Sikens. It's expensive and it's two part so you have to mix it, but it's guaranteed to last for the rest of your life. One coat and that's it, forever. About $50. a gallon, but worth every penny. It's made in central Minnesota.
Link Posted: 8/4/2002 2:03:27 PM EDT
This is my part time business, FF by trade. 1st: DO NOT USE THOMPSONS!!!!!!!!
Link Posted: 8/4/2002 2:10:56 PM EDT
This is my part time business, FF by trade. 1st: DO NOT USE THOMPSONS!!!!!!!! 2nd: Clean your deck before staining it, the improvement will amaze you. Also, you do not need nor want to use high pressure to clean your deck. Use proper deck cleaning agents and low (realitively) pressure. Around 1000psi or less. If you're using a powerwasher don't let the wand be sitting still when it's spraying. You'll get a white mark, have the wand moving all time that it's spraying. 3rd: The pump up will probably be best for the rails and pickets but I'd recommend that you roll the actual deck boards. The action of the roller works the sealer in better and gives better protection than when it's just sprayed on. (yes, we spray everything,, it's all about time) If you can't get the sprayer to work you can probably brush the pickets in the time it'll take you to clean up the wagner sprayer. 4th: Any good namebrand will do other than the one mentioned in #1. My choices are either Wolmans (hard to find in some areas) or Olympic. I personally prefer the clear sealers but if you go with a tinted sealer you get more UV protection. Just realize that the tinted stuff needs to be applied more like paint than a clear sealer. Don't let it dry and then come back over with another coat. With the clear that doesn't matter. Any questions drop me an email, will be happy to offer any help I can to AR15'rs. (or if you're in VA I'd be happy to take a small amount of your $$$ and save you the time and hassle) Ed fireals@aol.com
Link Posted: 8/4/2002 2:13:17 PM EDT
The problem with Thompsans is that they have GREAT salesmen and marketers but they forgot to hire any good chemists! (in my not so humble opinion,, I state again that this is my opinion and it's worth what you paid for it,, is that enough to keep the lawyers away???? [devil]
Link Posted: 8/5/2002 4:41:30 AM EDT
I love this site, I have a deck, thanks for the heads up on Thompsons.
Link Posted: 8/5/2002 5:16:00 AM EDT
Only use Thompsons if you want to stain your deck about 4 times a year.... I have had better luck with Behr deck stain, I think they make 3 different grades. And if you use the tinted stuff, do like they say and mix the gallons together. I have bought 2 gallons of the "same" color and had them vary quite a bit... or you could get the 5 gallon can I guess.
Link Posted: 8/5/2002 5:49:57 AM EDT
It's been about 10 years since I had to clean and seal a deck. I remeber that when I did need to, Thompson's was offering two different products: Water Seal and Wood Preservative. The Water Seal stuff looked like thin milk. The Wood Preservative was like golden oil. I have always had excellent results with the Wood Preservative. Tried the Behr brand and found it to be crap.
Link Posted: 8/5/2002 6:00:04 AM EDT
What about staining with a Behr/Olympic type stain and then sealing with Thompsons clear sealant? Don't you have to seal after staining? Then just re-seal every Fall?
Link Posted: 8/5/2002 6:40:38 AM EDT
I would stay away for using a sprayer and cleaning your deck with a wood cleaning product does do wonders. Consumer reports ran a test on all deck stains and said that cabots was the best. They said that it was really the only one that would last up to 4 years. I used their stain on my deck and am impressed with it. The other main thing to remember is not to apply the stain when there is direct sunlight on the deck or it is really hot. It will cause the stain to bubble and then dry like that. Here is cabots web site [url]http://www.cabotstain.com/[/url] C4
Link Posted: 8/5/2002 12:09:18 PM EDT
Thanks for all the info guys! Learning about AR's & deck staining! Gotta love this site! As soon as it cools down alittle and I get a free weekend we be staining! Thanks again!
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