Posted: 9/9/2012 8:41:18 AM EDT
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Going to Yellowstone next week for the first time.
What are some of the lesser known, can't miss things to do? For that matter, what are ALL the can't miss things? |
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Old Faithful is meh.Im sure it was great before indoor plumbing and people were amazed, but I'd rather spend my time at the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, the falls, and the sulfur basins.
Oh and pop into West Yellowstone and shoot a machine gun at the indoor range. When will you be there? |
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I'm leaving next Sunday, and looking forward to it. Are the fall colors showing yet or am I too late? I'll be going through Cody, I'll have to check out the museum. I would guess you'll be a tad early. Us in Jackson are predicting 3rd week of September or so. |
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My wife worked in Yellowstone for a few years. This is what she says:
Boiling River outside of Mammoth towards the North entrance West Yellowstone Smoke Jumper Base Grand Prasmatic Upper and Lower Falls of the Yellowstone Grand Canyon Tower Falls Petrified Forest More to come.. |
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Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome Response Continues at Yosemite National Park The recent diagnosis of hantavirus pulmonary syndrome (HPS) in eight park visitors, three of whom died, has prompted Yosemite National Park to scale up public health response and outreach. More » http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/yoursafety.htm Stay the heck away from those cabins and book a good hotel |
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Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome Response Continues at Yosemite National Park The recent diagnosis of hantavirus pulmonary syndrome (HPS) in eight park visitors, three of whom died, has prompted Yosemite National Park to scale up public health response and outreach. More » http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/yoursafety.htm Stay the heck away from those cabins and book a good hotel Yellowstone, not Yosemite |
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If you're going to Cody, take the Bear Tooth Highway to get back into the park via the Northeast entrance. It's a great driving road with some fantastic scenery.
That northern portion of the park from Cooke City to Roosevelt Junction to Mammoth Hot Spring is, IMHO, the prettiest and most serene landscape you'll see. If you like to see wildlife, you'll pass through the Lamar Valley along that route, and probably see the large herds of buffalo, some pronghorns, and have a chance to see bears and wolves. Once you get closer to Mammoth, you'll start seeing large numbers of elk. They pretty much own the town where the park headquarters is located. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is also a must, and if you have time and the legs for it, try Uncle Tom's Trail to get a close up at the largest waterfall in the park. There's another large waterfall just upstream from that one that you can see from multiple vantage points, including literally a few feet from the precipice of the fall. They're worth the walk. The thermal features are cool, but after you've seen a few variations, you kind of get the idea. Do the boardwalks/trail at Old Faithful, see the Fountain Paint Pots, and Firehole Lake Drive, and you'll see some of the best and most varied thermal features. The best geyser in the park is probably Beehive, which is located in the Old Faithful basin. It goes off with a real roar, and often enough that you'll have some chance of seeing it. Many of the big geysers are very hit or miss, and more difficult to get into position to see, but Beehive is just a short walk from Old Faithful and visible from many of the boardwalks right in the vicinity of Old Faithful itself. The best hot spring by far is grand prismatic. There is a trail that takes you to an overlook point where you can really see what it looks like. Seeing it from the boardwalks or the road doesn't do it justice. If you can handle a mile or so hike, it's worth the trip. Take a ride out to the Lake Hotel as well. It's a classic old style resort with a nice view of the lake. There are frequently herds of bison there too. You won't be far from the Tetons, so you should try to get down to see them as well. There really isn't any part of the park that's not worth seeing. Probably the only part that's a little long/not-so-spectacular is the actual road south to the Tetons. If you have the time available, I'd recommend doing every road through the park twice - once in each direction, because the change in view you get going the other way is sometimes surprising. The road through the "Golden Gate" heading down toward Mammoth is a great example. Just don't be one of those idiots that tempts fate by getting three feet closer to a bison or bull elk for a photo op, or walking out onto a thermal area. Stay well away from people you see doing that too. Bring lots of MB for your camera - you'll need it. |
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^^^^^^^^^^^^This and watch the weather often! We hit the east gate about the same time as 8 inches of snow fell in mid September. Had a Jeep so all was good but lots of tourist type people weren't prepared. I saw a guy at the Old Faithful lodge in shorts when it was in to 20's outside.LOL |
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I would at least take a day and head out of Yellow Stone and head over to the Teton National park. Not a lot to do in that area if your just going to drive like you would in YS. Lots of hiking, fishing and you can rent a small boat for the day on Jackson. The area is gorgeous and you will probably see more bear and moose. Jackson lake lodge is a pretty nice place to either stay the night or have dinner. http://www.gtlc.com/lodging/jackson-lake-lodge-overview.aspx |
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I was there the year of those massive wildfires... 1989 I think. That was when The Old Faithful Lodge was almost destroyed. Years later, I was there during the coldest summer in recorded history. The 2 extremes taught me to be prepared for anything.
Make sure you allow for adequate time to get sidetracked checking things out you didn't plan on seeing. It will be worth your time. |
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Interesting photo... http://www.kxlf.com/news/incredible-photo-catches-stare-down-between-photographer-and-grizzly/ Yeah, don't poke the bears. They are cranky, and not nearly as cuddly as that fur would suggest. I had a high school teacher that learned the lesson on or about his 3rd bear mauling. |
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My wife and I were in Yellowstone last year for our honeymoon.
You can get a great view of the lower falls from Artist Point. If you are indeed going to Cody, set aside several hours for the firearms museum. Be sure to look out for the Japanese Garand copy, Ruger's prototype GPMG, Winchester's BAR competitor and the Chauchat (  ). A lot of the modern military small arms are in the basement. There's a truly impressive Lee-Enfield collection down there, too.  There's also a K98 Mauser down there with an extended factory magazine.
I can't remember the name of the place, but there's a steakhouse on the main drag through Cody that serves a truly great buffalo filet. Also, if you have time to kill while you're in central Wyoming, the Wyoming Dinosaur Center in Thermopolis is awesome. |
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Yeah, I have always been pretty wary around Grizzly...
The warning about how fast they can move cannot be appreciated enough until you see it in person... I watched a sow with a cub last year go from 0-30 in about 2 seconds with no warning... to say it was impressive would be an understatement... made the hair on the back of my neck stand up like nothing else.... Edit to add photos.. 
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Be aware that Yellowstone is not a petting zoo. There are things in there, besides bear, that can and will kill you. Bison, moose, elk, cats, etc. That said: Absolutely beautiful place. Get off the roads some. Use caution and common sense. Spend some time away from the tourist centers. Do not spend much/any time in the gift shops. Mostly crap. Get a postcard or shirt. Hayden Valley. MUST SEE OLD FAITHFUL INN! Walk around the geyser basin. Take a lot of pictures. It is a large park. There are good distances between places. Everything is/was expensive. Buy everything you need outside the park. HKO |
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I would second the Beartooth Highway, as it is very beautiful.
Definitely check out the Lower Falls from Artist's Point. Go for a walk on the boardwalks at Old Faithful and also check out Norris Geyser Basin. Rent a rowboat and go fishing on the Lake. Check out Grand Tetons also, for sure, particularly Oxbow Bend around 8-9AM for a great reflection of the mountains. A nice hike is the one around Jenny Lake. The Buffalo Bill Cody museum in Cody, WY is a cool place to check out. |
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I would second the Beartooth Highway, as it is very beautiful. Definitely check out the Lower Falls from Artist's Point. Go for a walk on the boardwalks at Old Faithful and also check out Norris Geyser Basin. Rent a rowboat and go fishing on the Lake. Check out Grand Tetons also, for sure, particularly Oxbow Bend around 8-9AM for a great reflection of the mountains. A nice hike is the one around Jenny Lake. The Buffalo Bill Cody museum in Cody, WY is a cool place to check out. OP- If I had to pick one member to ask about Yellowstone, it would be this guy. |
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We went this summer.
+1 on Boiling River. Great spot. There is also a great swimming hole in Yellowstone where the river his heated by thermal springs. We spent two nights at Old Faithful and hit the highlights around there. We spent another night at Yellowstone lake. On the way out, we hit the big valley where the wildlife watching is best (although it's pretty good everywhere). I'll try to get you some details. My wife was our planner and tour guide––I just drove and enjoyed. I'd been to Lewis and Clark Caverns, near Yellowstone, as a kid, so we went back there and I enjoyed it again. We also spent a day driving through Grand Tetons. I need to get back there. |
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Don't be hesitant to try all of the little side roads. You can see 70% of the park from the main roads, but those little side roads often have unexpectedly cool things. Sometimes its a surprise close encounter with wildlife, and sometimes its just a cool view of the landscape. There is a really nice picnic spot on the lake that's off on a side road. I can't recall the name but it is just before you get to the marina when heading northeast toward Fishing Bridge from West Thumb. There is a trail from the picnic area down to a low spit that projects out into the lake. It gives views of the Lake Hotel and the Bay Bridge. The Jays that wait around to pick up scraps are like comedy relief.
You didn't say which way you were getting to Cody, but I think the best way is start from the park and head out the east entrance. You descend through an amazing heavily wooded valley (with a sheer drop on your right), and then once out of the park, take a long drive through Wapiti Valley, which has a southwest flavor to it, with painted rocks and spires. If you're lucky to hit Wapiti Valley late afternoon toward sunset, it is an absolutely epic drive. The rock formations take on pink and orange hues. Stop at the Buffalo Bill Cody Dam before hitting town. You may want to plan to stay in Cody for a day to make the most of the museum, and then hit the Beartooth for the journey back into the park. Another cool side trip is out to West Yellowstone. The little town is a lot of fun, and there is a bear center that will allow you to see Grizzlies and Wolves close up (though I am not a fan of zoos). A little further out of of Town is Hebgen lake. Follow the road alongside the lake to the Quake Lake area. There was an earthquake there in 1959 that cut a mountain in half. One side fell into the valley and dammed up the river. The whole landscape tilted in that direction and created Quake Lake. You can see the "slide" where the mountain fell (it looks like it happened last month, even to this day), and see the 20+foot rift in the earth on one of the side roads. For a long time you could see the remains of a house along the shore that was flooded when the lake was created. Somewhere I have pics of a friend of mine walking on the roof. I think it may have recently been washed away in the last few years. You can still see some of the old highway too. The remainder is underwater. If you like dark beer, be sure to ask for a Plum Street Porter. They serve it at several locales in West Yellowstone, and at the main restaurant at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge. I had way too much of it on my last trip, and I rarely drink. It's strictly a Montana/Wyoming product from what I understand, but it is good! |
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Has anybody ever toured the Park with an RV? I have this idea of flying into Denver or SLC and renting an RV to avoid having to find Park Lodging, which seems to be a big hassle for a lot of people. OTOH, not my favourite thing to drive a behemoth on twisting mountain roads.  |
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Quoted: Has anybody ever toured the Park with an RV? I have this idea of flying into Denver or SLC and renting an RV to avoid having to find Park Lodging, which seems to be a big hassle for a lot of people. OTOH, not my favourite thing to drive a behemoth on twisting mountain roads. Inside the actual park isn't bad. You see about a billion people in the summer coming up from the south who rent an RV in SLC or Jackson with those big "RENT ME" signs on the side. A lot of that stuff shuts down around the first couple of weeks of September so you really have to check into it. |
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Be aware that Yellowstone is not a petting zoo. There are things in there, besides bear, that can and will kill you. Bison, moose, elk, cats, etc. That said: Absolutely beautiful place. Get off the roads some. Use caution and common sense. Spend some time away from the tourist centers. Do not spend much/any time in the gift shops. Mostly crap. Get a postcard or shirt. Hayden Valley. MUST SEE OLD FAITHFUL INN! Walk around the geyser basin. Take a lot of pictures. It is a large park. There are good distances between places. Everything is/was expensive. Buy everything you need outside the park. HKO Highlighted a couple The most memerable things as an about 5 year old in the 1960s –– Waking up to snow outside the trailer at fisherman's bridge, walking on a wooden walkway through the "paint pots", and Old Faithful Inn (more so than the geyser). I sometimes think I might like to do a tour and just stay at all the grand hotels in the parks, Old Faithful Inn, Awanhee, etc. |
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rent bicycles in Moose and ride to Jenny Lake & back, outstanding views of the Tetons.
Fresh made stickey buns at Colter Bay village general store, open at 7:30am, good coffee too. Drive up to Signal Mountain, you can see Jackson from the top. Drive to St Anthony sand dunes, Idaho and rent a quad for 1/2 day Go to Unified Sportsmans gun club, pistol to 1000 yard ranges, $5.00 a day. 8 miles west of Rexburg on RT 33. Go the the BBQ at Dornans in Moose. Check out Jackson Hole gun club, south of town. Go fishing. Bring Fleece & hat/gloves. |
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Has anybody ever toured the Park with an RV? I have this idea of flying into Denver or SLC and renting an RV to avoid having to find Park Lodging, which seems to be a big hassle for a lot of people. OTOH, not my favourite thing to drive a behemoth on twisting mountain roads.
. You need to fly into (or at least rent there ) Montana, I do not remember exactly but there is no sales tax in MT. RV rentals have some type of bend over tax in some states, but not in Montana. Call ahead and shop around, the tax was a lot, like 17%. My facts may be off but I remember getting hammered with tax. |
...and have someone get video|
This is a good time: Aspen should be turning, crowds are much smaller, temperatures are just right (during the day; if you're camping it might be a bit cold at night). Here's a good guide: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/things2do.htm Interesting note: Concealed carry is legal inside the park, except in posted buildings. |
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Make sure to slow down for traffic http://www.nutwoodrocks.com/yell02.jpg http://www.nutwoodrocks.com/yell01.jpg Buffalo Jam! |
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I'm leaving next Sunday, and looking forward to it. Are the fall colors showing yet or am I too late? I'll be going through Cody, I'll have to check out the museum. The back way up through cody around the lake is the way to go they have a vistor center at the lake and some of the old equipment set out to see. The last time I went this way during this time of the year they were widening the road where it came into the park and across the mountain and there was snow on the ground. If you didn't have a 4wd they wouldn't let you through but once you crossed the mountain it was clear. You really need to try and see everything if you can |
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Funny you should post this, I literary just got back on Wednesday from camping just outside of West Yellowstone.
Most of the places to see have already been covered but I will reiterate what others have said about weather. Bring both cold and warm weather clothes. When we arrived Monday Aug 27 it was hot and beautiful for the first couple of days then it cooled down a bit during the day. We had one afternoon/night of good rain and after that the nights and mornings got down to around 30-40*. It did get kinda smokey from all the fires both where we were staying and in places in the park. I'll tell ya one thing they don't advertise that you do get to see, is every type of asshole driver is available for your viewing pleasure at Yellowstone. You can even interact with them on the roads and in parking lots. |
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BRING YOUR FLY ROD! Or you can rent one. If you get a chance fly fish the Madison river. There's a few shops in West Yellowstone if you need gear or flies. You do need a permit to fish the park.
If you do go the RV route, and drive around the park, please be condsiderate of the folks behind you. There's plenty of pull offs if you see a line of cars behind you. Makes the whole experience better for everyone; you get to sightsee without being pushed and they can roam freely around the park. |
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This is a good time: Aspen should be turning, crowds are much smaller, temperatures are just right (during the day; if you're camping it might be a bit cold at night). Here's a good guide: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/things2do.htm Interesting note: Concealed carry is legal inside the park, except in posted buildings. Mrs. Goldrubi and I returned from Yellowstone/Cody the Saturday before Labor day. Concealed carry may be legal in the park but I noticed almost every building had a posted prohibition. Many guide books still say firearms are illegal in the park (I think allowing concealed carry is a recent thing) If you go to Cody, I strongly recommend going to MoJoes for breakfast or lunch, we went 5x in three days. Best coffee we had on the whole trip. They also have incredible home made cinnamon rolls. We also went to Bubba's BBQ in Cody. The brisket was very good (locals don't recommend Bubba's for some reason) The Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody is extremely well done. Admission is good for two consecutive days. You will need a full day for the gun section alone. Go to the "Dug up Gun" museum in Cody (no admission, donations appreciated). They have several hundred guns that have been uncovered in various places around the world including one that was litterally found with a tree growing around it. Wont take long to go through but worth the investment of time. Buy groceries for breakfast and lunch before you go into the park. The contractor that does the food and hotel service in the park SUCKS. The food is mediocre and the prices are way out of line. Think school cafeteria quality with NYC pricing. Absolute crap. Definately take the time to go to Grand Teton we stayed one night at the Jackson Lake Lodge for a total of about a day and a half in Grand Teton. Drive down to Moose and eat at Dornan's |
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Quoted: Quoted: This is a good time: Aspen should be turning, crowds are much smaller, temperatures are just right (during the day; if you're camping it might be a bit cold at night). Here's a good guide: http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/things2do.htm Interesting note: Concealed carry is legal inside the park, except in posted buildings. Mrs. Goldrubi and I returned from Yellowstone/Cody the Saturday before Labor day. Concealed carry may be legal in the park but I noticed almost every building had a posted prohibition. Many guide books still say firearms are illegal in the park (I think allowing concealed carry is a recent thing) If you go to Cody, I strongly recommend going to MoJoes for breakfast or lunch, we went 5x in three days. Best coffee we had on the whole trip. They also have incredible home made cinnamon rolls. We also went to Bubba's BBQ in Cody. The brisket was very good (locals don't recommend Bubba's for some reason) The Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody is extremely well done. Admission is good for two consecutive days. You will need a full day for the gun section alone. Go to the "Dug up Gun" museum in Cody (no admission, donations appreciated). They have several hundred guns that have been uncovered in various places around the world including one that was litterally found with a tree growing around it. Wont take long to go through but worth the investment of time. Buy groceries for breakfast and lunch before you go into the park. The contractor that does the food and hotel service in the park SUCKS. The food is mediocre and the prices are way out of line. Think school cafeteria quality with NYC pricing. Absolute crap. Definately take the time to go to Grand Teton we stayed one night at the Jackson Lake Lodge for a total of about a day and a half in Grand Teton. Drive down to Moose and eat at Dornan's Here's the official Park Service word on the subject: http://www.nps.gov/yell/parkmgmt/lawsandpolicies.htm |