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AR15.COM
4/25/2012 7:02:54 AM EDT
Hey guys I am working on a a project that will require me to weld a rifle magazine together. I don't know what gauge a normal steel magazine is but it is about the thickness of a steel M14 magazine. Basically imagine welding two m14 magazines together. That is the best way I can describe what i would need to do with this.  Anyways I have no welding skills and need to learn so I was wondering if you guys thought a standard Harbor Freight  90AMP Flux Wire Welder would be good enough for a small project like this?
4/25/2012 7:06:07 AM EDT
[#1]
it will work, but give you shitty results. find someone with a TIG welder and the experience needed to do what you need properly.
4/25/2012 7:07:08 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
it will work, but give you shitty results. find someone with a TIG welder and the experience needed to do what you need properly.


Well I gotta learn sometime I guess. What do you mean shitty results? Look bad? Weak? Both hah?
4/25/2012 7:07:15 AM EDT
[#3]



Quoted:


it will work, but give you shitty results. find someone with a TIG welder and the experience needed to do what you need properly.
this





 
4/25/2012 7:08:56 AM EDT
[#4]
TIG would be best, but you can certainly weld it with a wire feed MIG welder.  I'd just put a few tacks on them to test.
4/25/2012 7:09:48 AM EDT
[#5]
You need TIG.
Your mag, done by someone who does not know how to weld will look like and work like dogshit.
 
4/25/2012 7:10:17 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
it will work, but give you shitty results. find someone with a TIG welder and the experience needed to do what you need properly.


Well I gotta learn sometime I guess. What do you mean shitty results? Look bad? Weak? Both hah?


The weld will be nicer looking from a TIG, and you'll have better control over the process, especially at such low amperage you'll be using welding the thin materials.
4/25/2012 7:10:33 AM EDT
[#7]
That is not a learner project.  Get someone to tig it for you or you could probably braze it.
4/25/2012 7:10:52 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
You need TIG.



Your mag, done by someone who does not know how to weld will look like and work like dogshit.



 


No, he doesn't
4/25/2012 7:11:06 AM EDT
[#9]


+

4/25/2012 7:11:11 AM EDT
[#10]
What would be a decent entry level tig welder?  I want to learn to weld too but life has been too crazy to sign up at a local trade school to take a welding class.  I would love to do it, just too busy...
4/25/2012 7:14:25 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
What would be a decent entry level tig welder?  I want to learn to weld too but life has been too crazy to sign up at a local trade school to take a welding class.  I would love to do it, just too busy...


Difficult question.  Kind of like asking if a Lorcin will "get the job done"?
4/25/2012 7:19:31 AM EDT
[#12]
If it gave me shitty results couldnt i just grind it flat and it would look fine?
4/25/2012 7:19:33 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
What would be a decent entry level tig welder?  I want to learn to weld too but life has been too crazy to sign up at a local trade school to take a welding class.  I would love to do it, just too busy...


I would recommend you go to the trade school, and tell them your issue.  

I did the same and they pointed me to one of their adjunct instructors who taught me in the evenings at his home/shop when I had time.  I ended up doing quite well with his old Miller machine, and ended up buying a similar one on Craigslist.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/1289061_New_welder___How_did_I_do___Anybody_have_any_old_Millers_or_Aircos_.html
The old ones can be very good and VERY reliable, especially if you are just wanting a good all around welder with TIG capability. I don't have all the fancy features like Kieth, but I feel comfortable welding just about anything with my $700 tig.
4/25/2012 7:25:46 AM EDT
[#14]
Sure, go for it...  Just have spare material...
Like they said, it's not a good project to learn on, and to do it properly you would need a TIG.
You CAN do it with a MIG with decent results, but given your level of experience, I would try a different route...

Unless you're OK with your welds looking like the joint shown here...
4/25/2012 7:29:30 AM EDT
[#15]
Difference between experienced tig and beginner stick





The choice is clearly yours to make
4/25/2012 7:30:01 AM EDT
[#16]
don't even bother with a flux core wirefeed machine.  you won't be making anything usable with it.  you could do it with a MIG, but the right tool for the job would definitely be a TIG welder.

EDIT:
the picture above sums it up pretty well.
4/25/2012 7:31:02 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Difference between experienced tig and beginner stick

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/127/can2l.jpg

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/686/hackweld.jpg

The choice is clearly yours to make


That second one's MIG, not stick
(No those aren't my "welds")

I taught myself to MIG, TIG and stick.  Now I weld up racecars in my free time..
4/25/2012 7:33:37 AM EDT
[#18]





Quoted:



What would be a decent entry level tig welder?  I want to learn to weld too but life has been too crazy to sign up at a local trade school to take a welding class.  I would love to do it, just too busy...



Better training for TIG is oxyfuel as it trains use of both hands, one on the torch and the other on the filler.  Also, it can be used for high temperature brazing which can match weld strength.  Under $1000 for complete setup, no need for power.





There are some budget GTAW (the preferred term for tungsten inert gas welding) machines out there like Everlast, you still will pay over $1000 for their 200 ampere unit.  And when it breaks, where will you take it for service?   With Lincoln, ESAB, Hobart, Miller, you take it to the local dealer.  





Get a Miller Diversion 165, DC and AC.  Will weld most metals, up to 3/16" thick.  The problem with self-teaching GTAW is seeing the arc and puddle under the hood.  Gas welding only requires dark sunglasses so you can see the work.  Yes, auto-darkening filters are a solution, you just have to find a good one.  




 
 
4/25/2012 7:34:41 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Difference between experienced tig and beginner stick

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/127/can2l.jpg

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/686/hackweld.jpg

The choice is clearly yours to make


That second one's MIG, not stick


could be either the point is its crappy and looks like a first attempt  , kinda  well I need to weld shit let me go down to harbor fright and by me a welder, " yesterday I couldn't spell welder , today I is one"
4/25/2012 7:34:47 AM EDT
[#20]



Quoted:



Quoted:

You need TIG.
Your mag, done by someone who does not know how to weld will look like and work like dogshit.
 




No, he doesn't

Did you smoke your fucking breakfast?





A noob with a chicom fluxcore welder?



Yes, tig and a competent welder are what he NEEDS.



.





 
4/25/2012 7:36:09 AM EDT
[#21]


You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  

I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.
4/25/2012 7:38:33 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Difference between experienced tig and beginner stick

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/127/can2l.jpg

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/686/hackweld.jpg

The choice is clearly yours to make


That second one's MIG, not stick


could be either the point is its crappy and looks like a first attempt  , kinda  well I need to weld shit let me go down to harbor fright and by me a welder, " yesterday I couldn't spell welder , today I is one"


Yeah, that whole instant gratification thing.  "I can do this with no experience and no real effort and it should just...work.  Right?"

But that's definitely mig, I see wire bits everywhere...
4/25/2012 7:39:47 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:


You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  

I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.


Spot welder is the way to go if it is overlapping.  That's how most metal mags are joined.  Look at any metal AR mag.
If it's a butt or corner weld, you're out of luck.
4/25/2012 7:41:49 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:


You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  

I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.


Spot welder is the way to go if it is overlapping.  That's how most metal mags are joined.  Look at any metal AR mag.
If it's a butt or corner weld, you're out of luck.


Thank you,
4/25/2012 7:45:32 AM EDT
[#25]







Quoted:
Quoted:






Quoted:







You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  
I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.

Spot welder is the way to go if it is overlapping.  That's how most metal mags are joined.  Look at any metal AR mag.



If it's a butt or corner weld, you're out of luck.

Thank you,




I can agree with this, but the question then is this:





Does the OP have the tools to flare and make a decent overlap so that the follower wont hang up or bind?
 
4/25/2012 7:48:34 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:


You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  

I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.


Spot welder is the way to go if it is overlapping.  That's how most metal mags are joined.  Look at any metal AR mag.
If it's a butt or corner weld, you're out of luck.


Thank you,

I can agree with this, but the question then is this:

Does the OP have the tools to flare and make a decent overlap so that the follower wont hang up or bind?


 


He used the money he was going to spend on a shitty welder and instead purchased sheet metal tools.  Also from Harbor Freight.  

ETA:  I'm assuming he already has a hammer.
4/25/2012 7:48:45 AM EDT
[#27]
I wouldn't want to do something like that with my Miller 130 setup for sheet metal, it's certainly a tig job. My Miller would do a fine job it just wouldn't look great, I wouldn't even attempt that with flux core.
4/25/2012 7:52:18 AM EDT
[#28]
id get a copper insert machined up to jig the 2 pieces together then mig it..
4/25/2012 7:52:41 AM EDT
[#29]



Quoted:



Quoted:




Quoted:


Quoted:


Quoted:






You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  



I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.




Spot welder is the way to go if it is overlapping.  That's how most metal mags are joined.  Look at any metal AR mag.

If it's a butt or corner weld, you're out of luck.




Thank you,


I can agree with this, but the question then is this:



Does the OP have the tools to flare and make a decent overlap so that the follower wont hang up or bind?





 




He used the money he was going to spend on a shitty welder and instead purchased sheet metal tools.  Also from Harbor Freight.  



ETA:  I'm assuming he already has a hammer.


Well played sir!



.



 
4/25/2012 7:54:08 AM EDT
[#30]



Quoted:



Quoted:






You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  



I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.




Spot welder is the way to go if it is overlapping.  That's how most metal mags are joined.  Look at any metal AR mag.

If it's a butt or corner weld, you're out of luck.


Many pistol magazine tubes are stake welded using GTAW or PAW.  AR magazines were designed for spot welding because of the aluminum construction.  Steel magazines are easily welded with GTAW, you just have to tack and jig.  Copper backup (non-consumable) with back purge will keep the interior bead small.  The 22-24 gauge sheet steel is going to be tough to weld with any wire feed process, even using 0.023" wire.
 
4/25/2012 7:56:04 AM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:

Quoted:
He used the money he was going to spend on a shitty welder and instead purchased sheet metal tools.  Also from Harbor Freight.  

ETA:  I'm assuming he already has a hammer.

Well played sir!
 


MY hammer is an Estwing thank you very much!
4/25/2012 7:56:44 AM EDT
[#32]



Quoted:


id get a copper insert machined up to jig the 2 pieces together then mig it..


I had to kick my boss out of the shop a few years ago due to him berating me for trying to weld copper and steel together.





Aint what I were doing there Hoss.
 
4/25/2012 7:58:04 AM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:


You know, this is actually a better answer than trying to weld it with a shitty Harbor Freight flux core welder.  Since a magazine will have a follower and a spring inside it, you will need a purge on the inside of the magazine so as to not have a problem with the back side of the weld, if you decide on some type of continuous weld.  

I personally think a tig welder is the wrong answer, and a spot welder is more of what you need.   This is sheet metal.  Heat and distortion are real problems.


Spot welder is the way to go if it is overlapping.  That's how most metal mags are joined.  Look at any metal AR mag.
If it's a butt or corner weld, you're out of luck.

Many pistol magazine tubes are stake welded using GTAW or PAW.  AR magazines were designed for spot welding because of the aluminum construction.  Steel magazines are easily welded with GTAW, you just have to tack and jig.  Copper backup (non-consumable) with back purge will keep the interior bead small.  The 22-24 gauge sheet steel is going to be tough to weld with any wire feed process, even using 0.023" wire.
 


I've got some stainless AR mags that are spot welded as well.
Most pistol mags I've got are seam welded with GTAW (TIG).