Posted: 4/12/2011 4:30:01 AM EDT
| Is it possible to clean an O2 sensor? I'm throwing an O2 code on one of my vehicles, and I am curious if it can be cleaned it before I drop the coin to replace it. For those who have replaced them, did you go with an OEM product or generic? Thanks! |
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I have never heard of anyone being able to repair one after they have an issue. I think it's best to replace them. You can also remove them completely and tune them computer to not detect them with no further issue. Pretty sure a car with EFI will not start without them. You can put O2 sims on them, and just tape them up somewhere. |
| If you go aftermarket try a NAPA one. I would stay away from most of the Auto Zone type crap. Did you follow a diagnostic flow chart for your vehicle? Just because you a throwing an 02 code does not mean your 02 is bad. Is it cycling and voltage withing range? But to answer your question, No you can't clean it and make it better if it's bad. |
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I have never heard of anyone being able to repair one after they have an issue. I think it's best to replace them. You can also remove them completely and tune them computer to not detect them with no further issue. Pretty sure a car with EFI will not start without them. You can put O2 sims on them, and just tape them up somewhere. on vehicles like mine with 4 o2 sensors, you can turn the rear ones off if you dont run cats so you wont throw a code. |
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Throw them out and get new ones. Once it is shot, it is shot.
I go around 100k on them and swap them out, even if they don't send OBD codes. I have a 5.3 Chevy right now with 125k that runs like new with the original sensores but I am going to swap them out soon in celebration of $4.50 gasoline and the worthless US Dollar |
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I have never heard of anyone being able to repair one after they have an issue. I think it's best to replace them. You can also remove them completely and tune them computer to not detect them with no further issue. Pretty sure a car with EFI will not start without them. You can put O2 sims on them, and just tape them up somewhere. on vehicles like mine with 4 o2 sensors, you can turn the rear ones off if you dont run cats so you wont throw a code. They will most certainly throw codes. They may not initially throw 02 codes, but it isn't always an O2 OBD code when an O2 sensor fails. They are there for a reason. |
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Depending on vehicle brand/type may have like 4 O2 sensors....upstream sensors providing input to actually make the vehicle run effeciently...downstream sensors just providing input on how effeciently the catalytic converter/s is working.
The sensors are not cleanable/repairable to my knowledge. |
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Pretty sure a car with EFI will not start without them. You can put O2 sims on them, and just tape them up somewhere. Not if you tune them out of the computer. The engine has no idea they are supposed to be there or what information it's missing. It will not throw a code. I have had mine tuned out for over 2 years. They don't exist as far as the engine/computer is concerned, they never have and never will. |
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Pretty sure a car with EFI will not start without them. You can put O2 sims on them, and just tape them up somewhere. Not if you tune them out of the computer. The engine has no idea they are supposed to be there or what information it's missing. It will not throw a code. I have had mine tuned out for over 2 years. They don't exist as far as the engine/computer is concerned, they never have and never will. How does one go about something like this? |
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For diagnostic purposes only? You need to know how long the sensor's been on there before you do it (as you are scraping coating off to do it)
If you KNOW that it is due to be changed: torch the tip with something hotter than propane (go 'round and 'round the tip) hit with wire wheel or drill chuck brush blow off with air hit with torch again reinstall if the code goes away in a short time, you know that you need to go to the store and replace the respective unit. |
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I have never heard of anyone being able to repair one after they have an issue. I think it's best to replace them. You can also remove them completely and tune them computer to not detect them with no further issue. Pretty sure a car with EFI will not start without them. You can put O2 sims on them, and just tape them up somewhere. on vehicles like mine with 4 o2 sensors, you can turn the rear ones off if you dont run cats so you wont throw a code. They will most certainly throw codes. They may not initially throw 02 codes, but it isn't always an O2 OBD code when an O2 sensor fails. They are there for a reason. if you dont run rear o2 sensors, and have them deleted in whatever tune you are running, it most certainly will not throw codes. |
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Quoted: Is it possible to clean an O2 sensor? I'm throwing an O2 code on one of my vehicles, and I am curious if it can be cleaned it before I drop the coin to replace it. For those who have replaced them, did you go with an OEM product or generic? Thanks! Use a MAPP or Propane torch and heat the tip of the O2 sensor flute. It is made of some precious metals that are supposed to self-clean when heated. This is worth a try as your other option is replacement. I did this on my rear O2 sensors on a Ford 4.6L 2V V8 and it seemed to work fine. If you do buy replacement O2 sensors, buy OEM. The Bosch sensors at the stores may not go into closed loop mode quickly enough. |
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I have never heard of anyone being able to repair one after they have an issue. I think it's best to replace them. You can also remove them completely and tune them computer to not detect them with no further issue. Pretty sure a car with EFI will not start without them. You can put O2 sims on them, and just tape them up somewhere. on vehicles like mine with 4 o2 sensors, you can turn the rear ones off if you dont run cats so you wont throw a code. They will most certainly throw codes. They may not initially throw 02 codes, but it isn't always an O2 OBD code when an O2 sensor fails. They are there for a reason. if you dont run rear o2 sensors, and have them deleted in whatever tune you are running, it most certainly will not throw codes. This. Turn them off in the computer and it will not throw a code. The reason the rears are there is to ensure the vehicle throws a code if a converter isnt working properly. |
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My code reader is pulling P0183, which translates to "Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream". Any suggestions? It's the sensor downstream of the catalytic convertor. That one is actually called an "air/fuel sensor" (it's a wide-band O2 sensor). Find the OEM part number (google search or call the dealer). Search for part number on Amazon. Buy OEM part and save $$$$$$. Might be a pain in the ass to install. It can be tight fit. I've seen a slotted socket for O2 sensors that would work wonders. |
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My code reader is pulling P0183, which translates to "Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream". Any suggestions? If there is a car forum for your vehicle, you could look there. 95% of the time, it is the sensor. I just had one of these in December. Might be a pain in the ass to install. It can be tight fit. I've seen a slotted socket for O2 sensors that would work wonders.
+1 to this also. |
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I had to replace the one on my Tacoma last year after about 110K. Same code. When the heater circuit is dead, the sensor is dead. The vehicles with California emissions (yes, they are sold all over the country) have two sensors, one on the front and one in the rear of the cat convertor.
The one in the rear, or the downstream one, is a wide-band O2, which is called an air/fuel sensor in the parts book. Dealer wanted about $300 for just the part. Amazon had it for like $120. Get two replacement nuts and a gasket too. |
| If you are low on money and want to get the light to saty off this is what you do. Go to a parts store and buy a pair of plug anti foulers. One package with two of them in it will set you back about 6 bucks. Take one of them and drill the inside diameter to half inch. Its not hard to do. Then screw your old o2 sencer into it then screw the other plug fouler onto the threaded end of the first one. Then screw them into the hole for the o2 sencer The light will come on when first started just like it is supposed to then go out. Your car will then pass emissions. Its cheap and easy and you can even eliminate the cat converter and it still works |
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The rear o2 is not a wideband sensor. If any O2 sensor would be a wideband it would be the upstream, or the pre-cat sensor. The downstream only monitors if the cats are actually working. A wideband sensor would have little use back there, you would want it upstream so that you can modify the A/F ratio via injector pulse width, fuel pressure, etc. If you have a downstream sensor bad it will not reduce the mileage or performance of the vehicle but you will not pass inspection. Replace the sensor and be done with it. |
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My code reader is pulling P0183, which translates to "Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Open Downstream". Any suggestions? I'd replace the sensor, but that's not a guarantee to remove the code. Do not use Bosch sensors. I had to learn this the hard way. Use the OEM sensor (Mopar for Jeep). Buy an oxygen sensor socket at Advance Auto/AutoZone/etc. as this will make life much, much easier for you when removing and installing O2 sensors. It's a tall socket with a cutout on one side for the sensor wires to pass through. |
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The rear o2 is not a wideband sensor. If any O2 sensor would be a wideband it would be the upstream, or the pre-cat sensor. The downstream only monitors if the cats are actually working. A wideband sensor would have little use back there, you would want it upstream so that you can modify the A/F ratio via injector pulse width, fuel pressure, etc. If you have a downstream sensor bad it will not reduce the mileage or performance of the vehicle but you will not pass inspection. Replace the sensor and be done with it. Many vehicles are using wide bands on front and rear in the past several years. Regardless, if he looks for the downstream sensor part number for that vehicle, he will get the O2 or A/F sensor, whichever one is needed. A/F sensor is just an O2 sensor that gives feedback over a wider range of voltage and gives a finer degree of feedback and better a/f control, rather than coarse feedback over a narrow voltage range, or lambda value. O2 or A/F sensors control the closed loop operation of the engine and allow the fuel trims to adjust the volumetric efficiency tables (fuel maps) in the ECM based on engine conditions (wear, new exhaust, etc.) If you disable them, then the engine only runs in open loop, meaning fixed V/E table or fuel map and no fuel trimming to allow the most efficient operation of the engine. |
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Quoted: The rear o2 is not a wideband sensor. If any O2 sensor would be a wideband it would be the upstream, or the pre-cat sensor. The downstream only monitors if the cats are actually working. A wideband sensor would have little use back there, you would want it upstream so that you can modify the A/F ratio via injector pulse width, fuel pressure, etc. If you have a downstream sensor bad it will not reduce the mileage or performance of the vehicle but you will not pass inspection. Replace the sensor and be done with it. This. The downstream O2 sensor is mainly to determine whether the catalyst is working effectively. The upstream or primary O2 sensors are generally narrowband units. Some do have wideband O2s in the upstream, like the Cobalt SS, and even displays the real-time AFR on the dash's digital display. The primary O2 sensor has to start switching within 0-15 seconds on my Ford, or else it remains in open loop mode. In open loop mode (basically what happens when you go WOT), it falls back on your MAF air transfer function, the commanded AFR table, and a few other items versus adjusting the fuel to maintain the commanded stoichiometric AFR. |
You guys corrected me. I checked my records and I actually replaced the front sensor on my Toyota last year, which is a wideband O2 (or A/F Sensor). I could swear that thing was behind the cat, but oh well.  Toyotas and European vehicles began using wideband O2s for the front sensor about 10 years ago. American vehicles are just recently doing the change. The rear O2 is still narrow band in newer vehicles.  However, eventually they'll all be wideband because the rear not only tells if the cat is working, it is a backup to the front sensor. Narrow band O2s are old technology compared to the wideband O2s.
Whereas narrow band O2s will only tell the computer if it's rich or lean, and the computer flips back and forth on the A/F ratio until it gets the sensor voltage within the correct reading, or lambda value / closed loop bias. A wideband O2 tells the computer exactly how much the A/F ratio is off, therefore it goes right to the correct A/F without any guesswork. Wideband O2s are the newer technology and will likely be on both front and rear of the cat in the future for even better control of emmissions. |