Posted: 3/20/2011 8:39:04 PM EDT
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I've never messed with these old style brake reservoirs. I found that there are two wells in mine. The rear one is almost empty. Just bought this old Jeep and I have to replace a couple of brake lines (rubber part) on the fronts and I'm going to bleed it, so no big deal.
Why do they have two separate wells? Is one for the front brakes and the other for the rear brakes? ETA Picture... 
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The answer is yes. You may want to see how much they are worn. If they are worn, it could come up some when you stick new ones in. Wait till you're finished to bleed and top it off.
ETA: Now that I've seen the pic, that's more than just wear Top it off and keep an eye on it. |
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Quoted:
The answer is yes. You may want to see how much they are worn. If they are worn, it could come up some when you stick new ones in. Wait till you're finished to bleed and top it off. Front pads are almost new. Haven't checked the rear drums yet. I'll definitely do that before bleeding them. |
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Quoted:
The answer is yes. You may want to see how much they are worn. If they are worn, it could come up some when you stick new ones in. Wait till you're finished to bleed and top it off. ETA: Now that I've seen the pic, that's more than just wear Top it off and keep an eye on it. Yeah I'm a little afraid of that. Hopefully there aren't any leaks. |
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Brake cylinders might be leaking. Can you see any leakage by the backing plate, right above the axle? Haven't look yet. I've only inspected the front brakes so far. The front driver's side is sticky and started heating up today while taking it for a spin. Had to come home early. Took a little bit of a rubber mallet, but finally got the caliper off the rotor. Took it apart and cleaned it up. Guide rod bolts had a little corrosion on them. Hopefully that took care of it. Guess I'll find out tomorrow. If not, calipers are cheap from what I've seen. Maybe I should start a project thread on this thing. I'm going to be doing a lot of small projects that could be informative to some guys on here. Think there would be any interest? |
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I have a word of advice, when you go to bleed the brakes, if you use the old school pump the pedal method, don"t let the pedal go to the floor.
As brakes are used the cylinders (Wheels and master) have an amount of travel that "they were used to" there is often pitting and corrosion on the cylinder walls outside the usual extent of travel. When the pedal is dropped to the floor the seals are drug through the portion of travel not often encountered, sometimes this damages the seal and requires rebuilding (or replacement) sooner rather than later or in some instances leads to unexpected failure shortly after the well intended maintenance. |
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Quoted:
I have a word of advice, when you go to bleed the brakes, if you use the old school pump the pedal method, don"t let the pedal go to the floor. As brakes are used the cylinders (Wheels and master) have an amount of travel that "they were used to" there is often pitting and corrosion on the cylinder walls outside the usual extent of travel. When the pedal is dropped to the floor the seals are drug through the portion of travel not often encountered, sometimes this damages the seal and requires rebuilding (or replacement) sooner rather than later or in some instances leads to unexpected failure shortly after the well intended maintenance. I use a vacuum hand pump. But thanks for the tip! Others might not know that. |
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Quoted:
Brake cylinders might be leaking. Can you see any leakage by the backing plate, right above the axle? No..the rear reservoir is for the front brakes....the front is for the rear brakes...where the wheel cylinders are. probably due for a front reline. look for a wet area at the rear of the master cylinder |
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Quoted: Quoted: I have a word of advice, when you go to bleed the brakes, if you use the old school pump the pedal method, don"t let the pedal go to the floor. As brakes are used the cylinders (Wheels and master) have an amount of travel that "they were used to" there is often pitting and corrosion on the cylinder walls outside the usual extent of travel. When the pedal is dropped to the floor the seals are drug through the portion of travel not often encountered, sometimes this damages the seal and requires rebuilding (or replacement) sooner rather than later or in some instances leads to unexpected failure shortly after the well intended maintenance. I use a vacuum hand pump. But thanks for the tip! Others might not know that. With a possible brake pad change coming up that is definitely useful information. Thank you Protolith.  |
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Hope Jinxer doesn't mind, but this reminded me of a question I've been meaning to ask for several years: If a small one to two inch geyser of fluid pops up from one of sections in the reservoirs when you pump the brake, does that mean that a portion of the master cylinder is defective? This was happening on a 96 Suburban. I replaced the MC with a rebuilt one, and it still does it, but to a lesser extent. The pedal goes down further than I would like (about half way) but the brakes work OK. |
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Quoted:
I have a word of advice, when you go to bleed the brakes, if you use the old school pump the pedal method, don"t let the pedal go to the floor. As brakes are used the cylinders (Wheels and master) have an amount of travel that "they were used to" there is often pitting and corrosion on the cylinder walls outside the usual extent of travel. When the pedal is dropped to the floor the seals are drug through the portion of travel not often encountered, sometimes this damages the seal and requires rebuilding (or replacement) sooner rather than later or in some instances leads to unexpected failure shortly after the well intended maintenance. And don't stare down into the well when someone is pumping either. 
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