Posted: 1/8/2011 1:43:38 PM EDT
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2000 impala 3.8l About 136k mi Starts fine when its cold but after that It don't want to fire easily. Ive found that if I give it about 3/4 pedal it will usually start rather quickly. Its also stalling from time to time at lights, in park and around turns. Some days its fine others a real bitch!!. 2 yrs ago I put in a new maf sensor, I don't know when but the crank sensor has been replaced. This has going on for about a yr now and it's not throwing any codes 
This really starting to bug me  I actually like the car not to mention I dumped $2k into her last summer for a new trans.
Any ideas without just throwing parts at her? Sounds like you have a fuel delivery issue. Have you cleaned the injectors, repalced the fuel pump? Usually goes out around 80-150k with the ethanol. |
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similar problem with my 99 chevy pickup with 5.3 - i replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fixed it. try googling this and see if it doesn't sound like the problems you're having may be related to the pressure regulator. Yeah that is another thing but the term slipped my mind. |
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If you are not getting any codes...
Does it just not want to idle correctly? So you start it up then it dies again? If you are getting this and NO codes then check to see if you have something called a IDLE AIR SOLENIOD, on GM cars is it located on the side of the throttle body and held in by 2 screws. If you have one, and you have the above idle problems you are in luck. It is easy to pull the part out and clean it with throttle body cleaner, just squirt the stuff in there and lots of it. For your car a replacement part may not be too expensive, for my GM it runs $300. Just dont lose the tiny o-ring around it. If you pull the idle solenoid do not try to push the plunger thing back in there by hand, you will destroy it. |
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Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. If you see gas, you found your problem. We see a lot of that on GM products. I was kinda wondering if that could be it. Just didn't know how to check. Thanks Quoted:
If you are not getting any codes... Does it just not want to idle correctly? So you start it up then it dies again? If you are getting this and NO codes then check to see if you have something called a IDLE AIR SOLINIOD, on GM cars is it located on the side of the throttle body and held in by 2 screws. If you have one, and you have the above idle problems you are in luck. It is easy to pull the part out and clean it with throttle body cleaner, just squirt the stuff in there and lots of it. For your car a replacement part may not be too expensive, for my GM it runs $300. Just dont lose the tiny o-ring around it. Now that you mention it it does surge from time to time. Jumps up to 2500 rpm then back to 800 but once again not all the time. Not sure about the sensor Ill have to check and see if it has one |
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2000 impala 3.8l About 136k mi Starts fine when its cold but after that It don't want to fire easily. Ive found that if I give it about 3/4 pedal it will usually start rather quickly. Its also stalling from time to time at lights, in park and around turns. Some days its fine others a real bitch!!. 2 yrs ago I put in a new maf sensor, I don't know when but the crank sensor has been replaced. This has going on for about a yr now and it's not throwing any codes
This really starting to bug me I actually like the car not to mention I dumped $2k into her last summer for a new trans.
Any ideas without just throwing parts at her? thats exactly what one of my areostars was doing, before it just quit all at once.then the rotor didnt spin at all, gear was shot. new gear and went from a dog to a rubber churning beast, youtube areostar litin em, it does that now! good luck. |
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2000 impala 3.8l About 136k mi Starts fine when its cold but after that It don't want to fire easily. Ive found that if I give it about 3/4 pedal it will usually start rather quickly. Its also stalling from time to time at lights, in park and around turns. Some days its fine others a real bitch!!. 2 yrs ago I put in a new maf sensor, I don't know when but the crank sensor has been replaced. This has going on for about a yr now and it's not throwing any codes
This really starting to bug me I actually like the car not to mention I dumped $2k into her last summer for a new trans.
Any ideas without just throwing parts at her? thats exactly what one of my areostars was doing, before it just quit all at once.then the rotor didnt spin at all, gear was shot. new gear and went from a dog to a rubber churning beast, youtube areostar litin em, it does that now! good luck. nothing on the search http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEwuS8kugHw |
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I checked and your car has a idle air solenoid, they call them a idle air control valve.
With this type of age, you need to pull it and clean it anyways. Because this is the cheapest and fastest thing, I would do that first. Its also a known GM problem and one of the few things that causes odd problems without throwing codes. |
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2000 impala 3.8l About 136k mi Starts fine when its cold but after that It don't want to fire easily. Ive found that if I give it about 3/4 pedal it will usually start rather quickly. Its also stalling from time to time at lights, in park and around turns. Some days its fine others a real bitch!!. 2 yrs ago I put in a new maf sensor, I don't know when but the crank sensor has been replaced. This has going on for about a yr now and it's not throwing any codes
This really starting to bug me I actually like the car not to mention I dumped $2k into her last summer for a new trans.
Any ideas without just throwing parts at her? thats exactly what one of my areostars was doing, before it just quit all at once.then the rotor didnt spin at all, gear was shot. new gear and went from a dog to a rubber churning beast, youtube areostar litin em, it does that now! good luck. nothing on the search http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEwuS8kugHw really? |
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2000 impala 3.8l About 136k mi Starts fine when its cold but after that It don't want to fire easily. Ive found that if I give it about 3/4 pedal it will usually start rather quickly. Its also stalling from time to time at lights, in park and around turns. Some days its fine others a real bitch!!. 2 yrs ago I put in a new maf sensor, I don't know when but the crank sensor has been replaced. This has going on for about a yr now and it's not throwing any codes
This really starting to bug me I actually like the car not to mention I dumped $2k into her last summer for a new trans.
Any ideas without just throwing parts at her? thats exactly what one of my areostars was doing, before it just quit all at once.then the rotor didnt spin at all, gear was shot. new gear and went from a dog to a rubber churning beast, youtube areostar litin em, it does that now! good luck. nothing on the search http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEwuS8kugHw really? Only one I found. |
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I was having a rough idle on my GM truck and the CEL came on. I took it to auto zone and they were able to get the codes to diagnose the problem. It was the idle air control. A can of throtttle body cleaner and an hour later the idle was much smoother, it started easier, and the CEL went off. Clean out the throttle body and disconnect the battery for a half hour. Take it from there.
It seems like this is a pretty common issue with GM cars and trucks as their are a lot of threads on internet forums about this. Good luck. |
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I was having a rough idle on my GM truck and the CEL came on. I took it to auto zone and they were able to get the codes to diagnose the problem. It was the idle air control. A can of throtttle body cleaner and an hour later the idle was much smoother, it started easier, and the CEL went off. Clean out the throttle body and disconnect the battery for a half hour. Take it from there. It seems like this is a pretty common issue with GM cars and trucks as their are a lot of threads on internet forums about this. Good luck. You can also disconnect the battery and press the brake pedal to remove any power to the CEL. |
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Ugh you guys either make me want to cry or laugh I can't decide which.
If you don't want to throw parts at the problem you need to have an expert check it out. 9 times out of 10 even paying him plus the repair comes out cheaper than what it'll cost to "try" all the things mentioned above. I don't guess when it comes to repairs. Instead I look at the data and diagnose. Believe me it's cheaper than all the guessing in this thread 10 times over. |
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Ugh you guys either make me want to cry or laugh I can't decide which. If you don't want to throw parts at the problem you need to have an expert check it out. 9 times out of 10 even paying him plus the repair comes out cheaper than what it'll cost to "try" all the things mentioned above. I don't guess when it comes to repairs. Instead I look at the data and diagnose. Believe me it's cheaper than all the guessing in this thread 10 times over. Yep, because some of us have never had this very same issue. 
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Ugh you guys either make me want to cry or laugh I can't decide which. If you don't want to throw parts at the problem you need to have an expert check it out. 9 times out of 10 even paying him plus the repair comes out cheaper than what it'll cost to "try" all the things mentioned above. I don't guess when it comes to repairs. Instead I look at the data and diagnose. Believe me it's cheaper than all the guessing in this thread 10 times over. Yep, because some of us have never had this very same issue. It's easy when you're spending other folks money. Isn't it? 
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Ugh you guys either make me want to cry or laugh I can't decide which. If you don't want to throw parts at the problem you need to have an expert check it out. 9 times out of 10 even paying him plus the repair comes out cheaper than what it'll cost to "try" all the things mentioned above. I don't guess when it comes to repairs. Instead I look at the data and diagnose. Believe me it's cheaper than all the guessing in this thread 10 times over. Yep, because some of us have never had this very same issue. It's easy when you're spending other folks money. Isn't it? A temp sensor is dirt cheap. Takes a couple minutes to replace. It's one of the few parts that will cause an engine to start from cold without an issue but cause huge starting problems when warmed up and restarted. If it smells very rich and misses and stumbles til it clears out it's that or a couple of very leaky injectors and I'd start with the sensor first. |
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Quoted: Quoted: 2000 impala 3.8l About 136k mi Starts fine when its cold but after that It don't want to fire easily. Ive found that if I give it about 3/4 pedal it will usually start rather quickly. Its also stalling from time to time at lights, in park and around turns. Some days its fine others a real bitch!!. 2 yrs ago I put in a new maf sensor, I don't know when but the crank sensor has been replaced. This has going on for about a yr now and it's not throwing any codes This really starting to bug me I actually like the car not to mention I dumped $2k into her last summer for a new trans.Any ideas without just throwing parts at her? thats exactly what one of my areostars was doing, before it just quit all at once.then the rotor didnt spin at all, gear was shot. new gear and went from a dog to a rubber churning beast, youtube areostar litin em, it does that now! good luck. There is no distributor in a 2000-vintage 3.4L or 3.8L GM V6. It has a camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and a 3-coil-pack distrbutorless electronic ignition. |
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Ugh you guys either make me want to cry or laugh I can't decide which. If you don't want to throw parts at the problem you need to have an expert check it out. 9 times out of 10 even paying him plus the repair comes out cheaper than what it'll cost to "try" all the things mentioned above. I don't guess when it comes to repairs. Instead I look at the data and diagnose. Believe me it's cheaper than all the guessing in this thread 10 times over. Yep, because some of us have never had this very same issue. It's easy when you're spending other folks money. Isn't it? A temp sensor is dirt cheap. Takes a couple minutes to replace. It's one of the few parts that will cause an engine to start from cold without an issue but cause huge starting problems when warmed up and restarted. If it smells very rich and misses and stumbles til it clears out it's that or a couple of very leaky injectors and I'd start with the sensor first. And if it doesn't fix it he's out 15 to 20 bucks and still has the same problem. Guessing went out with the carburetor. It's just a shame people haven't realized this 20 years after the last carb left the factory.
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Ugh you guys either make me want to cry or laugh I can't decide which. If you don't want to throw parts at the problem you need to have an expert check it out. 9 times out of 10 even paying him plus the repair comes out cheaper than what it'll cost to "try" all the things mentioned above. I don't guess when it comes to repairs. Instead I look at the data and diagnose. Believe me it's cheaper than all the guessing in this thread 10 times over. Yep, because some of us have never had this very same issue. It's easy when you're spending other folks money. Isn't it? A temp sensor is dirt cheap. Takes a couple minutes to replace. It's one of the few parts that will cause an engine to start from cold without an issue but cause huge starting problems when warmed up and restarted. If it smells very rich and misses and stumbles til it clears out it's that or a couple of very leaky injectors and I'd start with the sensor first. And if it doesn't fix it he's out 15 to 20 bucks and still has the same problem. Guessing went out with the carburetor. It's just a shame people haven't realized this 20 years after the last carb left the factory. I hope he posts back that it was the temp sensor.
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I hope he posts back that it was the temp sensor. Five min with a quality scan tool I could tell him if it's a temp sensor or not. If it is the temp sensor that only means you got lucky. Of course he's very likely to replace the wrong one. There are 2 you know.
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i've been a gm tech for a few years, from what u say it sounds like a fuel issue, i would bet the fuel pressure regulator is leaking and dumping fuel into the intake system when it heats up and the regulator expands/contracts and the seals leak, a crank sensor/ignition issue usually causes a no start, i;ve also see aftermarket maf sensor fail almost instantly so i wouldnt rule out that as a failure also
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Quoted: Any aftermarket parts or tuning mods? 2000 impala 3.8l About 136k mi Starts fine when its cold but after that It don't want to fire easily. Ive found that if I give it about 3/4 pedal it will usually start rather quickly. Its also stalling from time to time at lights, in park and around turns. Some days its fine others a real bitch!!. 2 yrs ago I put in a new maf sensor, I don't know when but the crank sensor has been replaced. This has going on for about a yr now and it's not throwing any codes This really starting to bug me I actually like the car not to mention I dumped $2k into her last summer for a new trans.Any ideas without just throwing parts at her? The easiest way to rule out the MAF sensor is to unplug it and see if the problems go away. It will throw a check engine light until the MAF is plugged back in for a while. The engine should run fine on the intake MAP sensor alone. Did the problem start last Summer? Had any work done on the exhaust manifolds (such as during the transmission installation)? Are there any pin holes in your exhaust pipe or missing bolts? You may have air suckage between the engine and the O2 sensors. O2 sensor data is not used on cold start. Once it warms up, the O2 sensor data is used to adjust the fuel and timing. If you have extra clean air coming into the exhaust in one bank, the O2 sensor will tell the engine computer to add more fuel which will cause combustion issues because you don't actually need more fuel in the chamber. Does your exhaust smell like gas? (the cats may prevent the smell, for a while anyways) Are you consuming more fuel than usual? One way to check for exhaust manifold leaks is to start the car when its cold and quickly get your hands down along the exhaust header and feel for pulsed air flow before things get too hot. The better way is to take it to the shop and have them hook up a smarter computer. |