Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
4/19/2010 8:37:38 PM EDT
I need a new radiator for my truck. Its going into a 64 panel truck powered by a 454. The radiator i got with the 454 will not fit without modifying the sheet metal of the inner fenders. (Im still thinking of doing this vs spednign almost 500 bucks.) Does cross flow vs down flow make any difference?
4/19/2010 8:55:14 PM EDT
[#1]
no one?
4/19/2010 9:11:33 PM EDT
[#2]
Cross flow is more modern. Think more about the number of cores/tubes than the configuration.

BTW...Minimum 4 core for your engine if you want to beat on it.
4/19/2010 9:15:47 PM EDT
[#3]
Cross flow is only used because header tanks are made of fiberglass filled polyamide which last longer when kept constantly flooded.  It also fits better with lower hood lines, a problem you don't have.  
4/19/2010 9:56:45 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I need a new radiator for my truck. Its going into a 64 panel truck powered by a 454. The radiator i got with the 454 will not fit without modifying the sheet metal of the inner fenders. (Im still thinking of doing this vs spednign almost 500 bucks.) Does cross flow vs down flow make any difference?


You need a radiator sized to the engine and vehicle . I ran a radiator shop for 7 years in ARIZONA. I modified radiators for some of the cars GM tested out here in our GM Desert Proving Grounds.

Crossflows were developed because of the low hoodlines developed in the late 60s. IMO, there was very little difference between downflow vs cross flow.  My work was in the 80s through 1990, almost exclusively brass/copper systems.

Again the radiator needs to be sized to the engine and the vehicle, IIRC the standard dimension of a copper/brass big block crossflow, was a 4 row about 28" long  17"or 19" tall. The constant (fin count), was about 12 fins to the inch. Early versions were 1/2" wide tube, later versions were a 3/8"s tube with a higher fin count, 15 or 16 to the inch IIRC.

Back in the copper/brass days, we could build anything if you had the $$$$$, and on several occasions built radiators that cooled too good.

I think downflow would be fine if you can shoe horn a properly sized one into the truck.
4/19/2010 10:34:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I need a new radiator for my truck. Its going into a 64 panel truck powered by a 454. The radiator i got with the 454 will not fit without modifying the sheet metal of the inner fenders. (Im still thinking of doing this vs spednign almost 500 bucks.) Does cross flow vs down flow make any difference?


You need a radiator sized to the engine and vehicle . I ran a radiator shop for 7 years in ARIZONA. I modified radiators for some of the cars GM tested out here in our GM Desert Proving Grounds.

Crossflows were developed because of the low hoodlines developed in the late 60s. IMO, there was very little difference between downflow vs cross flow.  My work was in the 80s through 1990, almost exclusively brass/copper systems.

Again the radiator needs to be sized to the engine and the vehicle, IIRC the standard dimension of a copper/brass big block crossflow, was a 4 row about 28" long  17"or 19" tall. The constant (fin count), was about 12 fins to the inch. Early versions were 1/2" wide tube, later versions were a 3/8"s tube with a higher fin count, 15 or 16 to the inch IIRC.

Back in the copper/brass days, we could build anything if you had the $$$$$, and on several occasions built radiators that cooled too good.

I think downflow would be fine if you can shoe horn a properly sized one into the truck.


Its for a 64 c10 panel truck. The engine is a 454 out of a 87 suburbabn. I have the radiator from the suburban but it wont fit in place due to sheet metal getting in the way, which is somethign that can be fixed. I would imagine that the radiator that was stock with the original truck would still be able to cool it in a different vehicle as long as there were no obstructions of air flow, which there would not be. But i think you are more knowledgeable than me.
4/19/2010 10:57:22 PM EDT
[#6]

Griffin Radiators for your truck are all down flow and support either up to 400hp, or 600hp.




$591 - 600hp





$499 - 400hp





Both come with an integrated trans cooler as well.




4/20/2010 7:37:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Griffin Radiators for your truck are all down flow and support either up to 400hp, or 600hp.

$591 - 600hp

$499 - 400hp

Both come with an integrated trans cooler as well.



Looking at the specs on that radiator, I don't think that will work.



4/20/2010 7:44:19 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I need a new radiator for my truck. Its going into a 64 panel truck powered by a 454. The radiator i got with the 454 will not fit without modifying the sheet metal of the inner fenders. (Im still thinking of doing this vs spednign almost 500 bucks.) Does cross flow vs down flow make any difference?


You need a radiator sized to the engine and vehicle . I ran a radiator shop for 7 years in ARIZONA. I modified radiators for some of the cars GM tested out here in our GM Desert Proving Grounds.

Crossflows were developed because of the low hoodlines developed in the late 60s. IMO, there was very little difference between downflow vs cross flow.  My work was in the 80s through 1990, almost exclusively brass/copper systems.

Again the radiator needs to be sized to the engine and the vehicle, IIRC the standard dimension of a copper/brass big block crossflow, was a 4 row about 28" long  17"or 19" tall. The constant (fin count), was about 12 fins to the inch. Early versions were 1/2" wide tube, later versions were a 3/8"s tube with a higher fin count, 15 or 16 to the inch IIRC.

Back in the copper/brass days, we could build anything if you had the $$$$$, and on several occasions built radiators that cooled too good.

I think downflow would be fine if you can shoe horn a properly sized one into the truck.


Its for a 64 c10 panel truck. The engine is a 454 out of a 87 suburbabn. I have the radiator from the suburban but it wont fit in place due to sheet metal getting in the way, which is somethign that can be fixed. I would imagine that the radiator that was stock with the original truck would still be able to cool it in a different vehicle as long as there were no obstructions of air flow, which there would not be. But i think you are more knowledgeable than me.


The old radiator, dimensions (area) is your guideline for sizing a new one. L x H x Thickness. Measuring from header to header, bracket to bracket. IIRC you could probably go 10 to 20% smaller in dimension as  long as you increased fin count.

I was just looking around at what is available, man o man, how things have changed.