[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Nitrous (Page 1 of 3)
Posted: 2/18/2010 4:40:55 PM EDT
Ok, I know there are a few guys on here with experience with nitrous...is it safe for a new engine? I've read that a wet system is the way to go, and is very safe...but that was from sites that were selling the kit.
This is the kit I'm looking at. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ZX&Product_Code=82034B&Category_Code=Ford I don't want to blow my engine up.
|
|
Quoted:
Ok, I know there are a few guys on here with experience with nitrous...is it safe for a new engine? I've read that a wet system is the way to go, and is very safe...but that was from sites that were selling the kit.
This is the kit I'm looking at. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ZX&Product_Code=82034B&Category_Code=Ford I don't want to blow my engine up. Don't play if you can't afford to pay. Modified engines can be expensive to maintain. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ok, I know there are a few guys on here with experience with nitrous...is it safe for a new engine? I've read that a wet system is the way to go, and is very safe...but that was from sites that were selling the kit.
This is the kit I'm looking at. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ZX&Product_Code=82034B&Category_Code=Ford I don't want to blow my engine up. Don't play if you can't afford to pay. Modified engines can be expensive to maintain. That's why I'm asking if it's safe or no...Looking for advice from people with experience with it. |
|
used at correct tuning and at a HP level compatible with the quality of the engines bottom end it is perfectly safe most of the horror stories are guys running 200HP hit in a 5.0 mustang with 175K miles with a kit they pieced together on ebay or a swap meet the ZEX system you posted should be fine although i probably wouldn't run the upper most HP levels with it however i jumped out of the car tuning thing more than a few years ago and have little to no experience with non push rod ford motors and am not aware of how good or bad the intrernals are on the later motors |
| I would go with nitrous express kit, make sure you get a sct to tuner since ur in co to to for the elevation and a set of colder spark plugs. make sure you change them every bottle if your running a 75 wet shot or higher from what other motors ive worked on have shown. |
|
Quoted:
used at correct tuning and at a HP level compatible with the quality of the engines bottom end it is perfectly safe most of the horror stories are guys running 200HP hit in a 5.0 mustang with 175K miles with a kit they pieced together on ebay or a swap meet the ZEX system you posted should be fine although i probably wouldn't run the upper most HP levels with it however i jumped out of the car tuning thing more than a few years ago and have little to no experience with non push rod ford motors and am not aware of how good or bad the intrernals are on the later motors Thanks, that's the kind of info I'm looking for! |
|
Quoted:
I would go with nitrous express kit, make sure you get a sct to tuner since ur in co to to for the elevation and a set of colder spark plugs. make sure you change them every bottle if your running a 75 wet shot or higher from what other motors ive worked on have shown. I've got a CAI and tuner on the way now. I'm learning cars again, had the Jeep so long I don't know shit about modern cars.
|
|
If done correctly, its safe! Modern nitrous systems have all the necessary safeguards to prevent the dreaded 'piston through the hood' syndrome' Colder Most modern nitrous sytems have the following safety features: First gear lockout (For manual transmissions). Prevents the nitrous from activating in first gear Low and high rpm cutouts. You can specify at what rpm you want the spray to kick in and when to automatically stop spraying (Prevents spraying at the engine's rev limit) WOT switch (only activates the spray when you're at wide open throttle) Low fuel pressure cut-off switch for fuel pressure to prevent lean condition.. All modern, well built spray kits should have the above safety features... Basically, you flip the toggle switch to activate the system, and the spray automatically activates at your specified lower rpm and again automatically shuts off at your specified upper RPM limit only when you're at WOT... Add colder, shorter ground spark plug and a proper tune for the spray and you're all set... I've been running a 200 wet shot on my 2004 ZO6 Corvette since 2004.. I have countless passes on the track (and the street.. ) with the spray and I have never had a problem.. |
|
Quoted:
If done correctly, its safe! Modern nitrous systems have all the necessary safeguards to prevent the dreaded 'piston through the hood' syndrome' Colder Most modern nitrous sytems have the following safety features: First gear lockout (For manual transmissions). Prevents the nitrous from activating in first gear Low and high rpm cutouts. You can specify at what rpm you want the spray to kick in and when to automatically stop spraying (Prevents spraying at the engine's rev limit) WOT switch (only activates the spray when you're at wide open throttle) Low fuel pressure cut-off switch for fuel pressure to prevent lean condition.. All modern, well built spray kits should have the above safety features... Basically, you flip the toggle switch to activate the system, and the spray automatically activates at your specified lower rpm and again automatically shuts off at your specified upper RPM limit only when you're at WOT... Add colder, shorter ground spark plug and a proper tune for the spray and you're all set... I've been running a 200 wet shot on my 2004 ZO6 Corvette since 2004.. I have countless passes on the track (and the street.. ) with the spray and I have never had a problem.. From all my reading, it's hard to tell if people are talking about old vs new sytems, wet vs dry...when they talk about good vs bad.
So I'm doing my research before I get one installed. Thanks for the info, I'm still not sure which to get if I decide to do it. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
What you need to be most concerned about are lean conditions (not enough fuel) that will make your motor go all Glock on itself. I've read that's more of an issue with a dry system, not the wet ones. Do the wet systems include some sort of A/F ratio meter or something? I'm not as familiar with nitrous as I am S/C's and turbos. |
|
The system I run is a wet system (2000 Merc Cougar)
75 shot WOT switch activated Also have a RPM switch. It won't spray under 3K of over 6K It won't make your car faster...for example my top speed is 138MPH...on the bottle or off it...but on the bottle I can get there a hell of a lot faster :-) Damn it's fun 
|
|
Quoted: don't think so just fuel pressure shut offQuoted: Quoted: What you need to be most concerned about are lean conditions (not enough fuel) that will make your motor go all Glock on itself. I've read that's more of an issue with a dry system, not the wet ones. Do the wet systems include some sort of A/F ratio meter or something? I'm not as familiar with nitrous as I am S/C's and turbos. but as said the wet are much less likely to run lean |
|
Quoted: Quoted: If done correctly, its safe! Modern nitrous systems have all the necessary safeguards to prevent the dreaded 'piston through the hood' syndrome' Colder Most modern nitrous sytems have the following safety features: First gear lockout (For manual transmissions). Prevents the nitrous from activating in first gear Low and high rpm cutouts. You can specify at what rpm you want the spray to kick in and when to automatically stop spraying (Prevents spraying at the engine's rev limit) WOT switch (only activates the spray when you're at wide open throttle) Low fuel pressure cut-off switch for fuel pressure to prevent lean condition.. All modern, well built spray kits should have the above safety features... Basically, you flip the toggle switch to activate the system, and the spray automatically activates at your specified lower rpm and again automatically shuts off at your specified upper RPM limit only when you're at WOT... Add colder, shorter ground spark plug and a proper tune for the spray and you're all set... I've been running a 200 wet shot on my 2004 ZO6 Corvette since 2004.. I have countless passes on the track (and the street.. ) with the spray and I have never had a problem.. From all my reading, it's hard to tell if people are talking about old vs new sytems, wet vs dry...when they talk about good vs bad. So I'm doing my research before I get one installed. Thanks for the info, I'm still not sure which to get if I decide to do it. Go with a wet system. Its safer in that you're injecting fuel and nitrous together. Once calibrated correctly it prevents a lean condition, which prevents detonation. It would help if you let us know the type of engine, whether the lower end is all forged, mileage, etc.. |
|
Looks like you got the jist of it..a quality wet kit tuned correctly with the proper spark plugs and knowing when its ok to hit it just about covers it..Couple quick tips..have the nitrous purge set up so it blows the purge right onto the nitrous solenoid itself..you will get the coldest shot possible then. and before hooking up the line that runs from the bottle to the solenoid open up the bottle to blow out any crap in the lines. A wideband O2 sensor and fuel pressure gauge wouldn't hurt either. |
|
You can run a wet system without screwing things up, as long as you have safety controls in place.
If you run more than a 75 shot, you need to be able to retard your timing (use an aftermarket ignition system and set an automatic timing retard if you can, it sure beats having to flash a nitrous program into your computer) Make sure you have a 1)wide open throttle switch 2)fuel pressure safety switch 3)RPM window switch and you will be fine. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If done correctly, its safe! Modern nitrous systems have all the necessary safeguards to prevent the dreaded 'piston through the hood' syndrome' Colder Most modern nitrous sytems have the following safety features: First gear lockout (For manual transmissions). Prevents the nitrous from activating in first gear Low and high rpm cutouts. You can specify at what rpm you want the spray to kick in and when to automatically stop spraying (Prevents spraying at the engine's rev limit) WOT switch (only activates the spray when you're at wide open throttle) Low fuel pressure cut-off switch for fuel pressure to prevent lean condition.. All modern, well built spray kits should have the above safety features... Basically, you flip the toggle switch to activate the system, and the spray automatically activates at your specified lower rpm and again automatically shuts off at your specified upper RPM limit only when you're at WOT... Add colder, shorter ground spark plug and a proper tune for the spray and you're all set... I've been running a 200 wet shot on my 2004 ZO6 Corvette since 2004.. I have countless passes on the track (and the street.. ) with the spray and I have never had a problem.. From all my reading, it's hard to tell if people are talking about old vs new sytems, wet vs dry...when they talk about good vs bad.
So I'm doing my research before I get one installed. Thanks for the info, I'm still not sure which to get if I decide to do it. Go with a wet system. Its safer in that you're injecting fuel and nitrous together. Once calibrated correctly it prevents a lean condition, which prevents detonation. It would help if you let us know the type of engine, whether the lower end is all forged, mileage, etc.. Mustang 4.6L, 175miles. It's stock, so I'm sure the internals are not forged. |
and make sure your bottle heater ( if ya get one) doesn't malfunction  http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/images/NOS/NOS_bottle_explosion_article.jpg  |
| Had an NOS 150 wet shot on my 5.0 Mustang, and a Zex 75 wet shot on my ex-gf's Prelude. Both worked well, no complaints until the nitrous solenoid got stuck open on the Mustang and it went up in flames. Nothing against the nitrous, just an old solenoid. With newer electronics and wideband O2s, situations like that can be avoided. |
|
Quoted:
The system I run is a wet system (2000 Merc Cougar) 75 shot WOT switch activated Also have a RPM switch. It won't spray under 3K of over 6K It won't make your car faster...for example my top speed is 138MPH...on the bottle or off it...but on the bottle I can get there a hell of a lot faster :-) Damn it's fun http://www.donelsoncomputers.com/Images/Cougar/Nov/nx.jpg http://www.donelsoncomputers.com/Images/Cougar/Nov/ext.jpg Nice car! 
|
|
Quoted:
and make sure your bottle heater ( if ya get one) doesn't malfunction
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/images/NOS/NOS_bottle_explosion_article.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/2rn7mdk.jpg That would fucking suck!
|
|
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: If done correctly, its safe! Modern nitrous systems have all the necessary safeguards to prevent the dreaded 'piston through the hood' syndrome' Colder Most modern nitrous sytems have the following safety features: First gear lockout (For manual transmissions). Prevents the nitrous from activating in first gear Low and high rpm cutouts. You can specify at what rpm you want the spray to kick in and when to automatically stop spraying (Prevents spraying at the engine's rev limit) WOT switch (only activates the spray when you're at wide open throttle) Low fuel pressure cut-off switch for fuel pressure to prevent lean condition.. All modern, well built spray kits should have the above safety features... Basically, you flip the toggle switch to activate the system, and the spray automatically activates at your specified lower rpm and again automatically shuts off at your specified upper RPM limit only when you're at WOT... Add colder, shorter ground spark plug and a proper tune for the spray and you're all set... I've been running a 200 wet shot on my 2004 ZO6 Corvette since 2004.. I have countless passes on the track (and the street.. ) with the spray and I have never had a problem.. From all my reading, it's hard to tell if people are talking about old vs new sytems, wet vs dry...when they talk about good vs bad. So I'm doing my research before I get one installed. Thanks for the info, I'm still not sure which to get if I decide to do it. Go with a wet system. Its safer in that you're injecting fuel and nitrous together. Once calibrated correctly it prevents a lean condition, which prevents detonation. It would help if you let us know the type of engine, whether the lower end is all forged, mileage, etc.. Mustang 4.6L, 175miles. It's stock, so I'm sure the internals are not forged. Bummer. Can't help you there as I'm strictly an LS1/6//7 kind of guy. I will tell you this: 175 miles is actually too low. You need at least a thousand miles to ensure the engine is sound, the rings are seated properly and the drivetrain is properly meshed/broken in before you start stressing the powertrain with spray.. Even the race engines we build don't get spray until they're properly broken in a thousand miles to ensure breaking in and reliability... |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If done correctly, its safe! Modern nitrous systems have all the necessary safeguards to prevent the dreaded 'piston through the hood' syndrome' Colder Most modern nitrous sytems have the following safety features: First gear lockout (For manual transmissions). Prevents the nitrous from activating in first gear Low and high rpm cutouts. You can specify at what rpm you want the spray to kick in and when to automatically stop spraying (Prevents spraying at the engine's rev limit) WOT switch (only activates the spray when you're at wide open throttle) Low fuel pressure cut-off switch for fuel pressure to prevent lean condition.. All modern, well built spray kits should have the above safety features... Basically, you flip the toggle switch to activate the system, and the spray automatically activates at your specified lower rpm and again automatically shuts off at your specified upper RPM limit only when you're at WOT... Add colder, shorter ground spark plug and a proper tune for the spray and you're all set... I've been running a 200 wet shot on my 2004 ZO6 Corvette since 2004.. I have countless passes on the track (and the street.. ) with the spray and I have never had a problem.. From all my reading, it's hard to tell if people are talking about old vs new sytems, wet vs dry...when they talk about good vs bad.
So I'm doing my research before I get one installed. Thanks for the info, I'm still not sure which to get if I decide to do it. Go with a wet system. Its safer in that you're injecting fuel and nitrous together. Once calibrated correctly it prevents a lean condition, which prevents detonation. It would help if you let us know the type of engine, whether the lower end is all forged, mileage, etc.. Mustang 4.6L, 175miles. It's stock, so I'm sure the internals are not forged. Bummer. Can't help you there as I'm strictly an LS1/6//7 kind of guy. I will tell you this: 175 miles is actually too low. You need at least a thousand miles to ensure the engine is sound, the rings are seated properly and the drivetrain is properly meshed/broken in before you start stressing the powertrain with spray.. Even the race engines we build don't get spray until they're properly broken in a thousand miles to ensure breaking in and reliability... If it won't kill my engine, I just plan ordering one, and having it on hand after 1k or so miles, I know I need to break it in a bit before adding nitrous. I just like to have stuff on hand to work on or add to my vehicles. I've added more money in parts to my 99 TJ than I paid for it. It's a sickness.
|
|
Quoted:
If done correctly, its safe! Modern nitrous systems have all the necessary safeguards to prevent the dreaded 'piston through the hood' syndrome' Colder Most modern nitrous sytems have the following safety features: First gear lockout (For manual transmissions). Prevents the nitrous from activating in first gear Low and high rpm cutouts. You can specify at what rpm you want the spray to kick in and when to automatically stop spraying (Prevents spraying at the engine's rev limit) WOT switch (only activates the spray when you're at wide open throttle) Low fuel pressure cut-off switch for fuel pressure to prevent lean condition.. All modern, well built spray kits should have the above safety features... Basically, you flip the toggle switch to activate the system, and the spray automatically activates at your specified lower rpm and again automatically shuts off at your specified upper RPM limit only when you're at WOT... Add colder, shorter ground spark plug and a proper tune for the spray and you're all set... I've been running a 200 wet shot on my 2004 ZO6 Corvette since 2004.. I have countless passes on the track (and the street.. ) with the spray and I have never had a problem.. Just so we're clear, I'm reporting you and asking you be banned. A Z06....And no pics?? Thats....Thats....Well, it SHOULD be a bannable offense!! 
|
|
Quoted:
Ok, I know some of you guys are running it...and a guy in another thread said he installed them. I need to know whether It's gtg, or will blow up my engine.
Eventually plan on a supercharger, but not quite yet. Nitrous is safe if you do it right. You need a purge valve, timing controller, an ignition box designed for Nitrous, and a Nitrous controller. Basicly hit the switch, and let the computers control the spray. I like using a wet plate kit, along with a fogger system (2-stage) The most I've ran is a 200HP plate, and a 400HP fogger on a stroked 496ci Chevy. Nitrous is the shit when it's done right. |
| If you don't want to eventually burn a hole in one of your pistons you will need to replace the factory ones (which I'm willing to bet are just Hypereutectic) with forged ones. If you go through all that trouble then while the engine is apart you might as well upgrade to more aggressive nitrous friendly cams, better heads, etc. See where this goes? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ok, I know some of you guys are running it...and a guy in another thread said he installed them. I need to know whether It's gtg, or will blow up my engine.
Eventually plan on a supercharger, but not quite yet. Nitrous is safe if you do it right. You need a purge valve, timing controller, an ignition box designed for Nitrous, and a Nitrous controller. Basicly hit the switch, and let the computers control the spray. I like using a wet plate kit, along with a fogger system (2-stage) The most I've ran is a 200HP plate, and a 400HP fogger on a stroked 496ci Chevy. Nitrous is the shit when it's done right. What do you think of the system I posted? |
|
Quoted:
If you don't want to eventually burn a hole in one of your pistons you will need to replace the factory ones (which I'm willing to bet are just Hypereutectic) with forged ones. If you go through all that trouble then while the engine is apart you might as well upgrade to more aggressive nitrous friendly cams, better heads, etc. See where this goes? Yes I see where it goes...I've had a TJ for the last 10 years...If you're not a Jeep guy, Jeep=Just Empty Every Pocket. And it's taken me 10 years to get it to a point that I'm happy with it. |
|
Quoted:
Sorry, can't help. I don't know anything about Nitrous. 
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc83/yullose/Grand%20National/DSC077982.jpg Couldn't remember your username! You're the one who did the install on a car like mine! Thanks for jumping in. So, what say you on a car like mine? |
| I only use NOS kits, but I've heard good things about the kit you posted. With the wet kit, do yourself a favor, and add a 1gal fuel cell, and a fuel pump. This makes the Nitrous system stand alone. I lost a 383 once due to low fuel pressure. Almost at the traps @ 137mph, she just burped and farted. Pulled the heads off, and I saw 5 new JE pistons with broken ring lands. Bad day at the track. |
|
Quoted:
Sorry, can't help. I don't know anything about Nitrous.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc83/yullose/Grand%20National/DSC077982.jpg Sweet GN. 
|
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry, can't help. I don't know anything about Nitrous.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc83/yullose/Grand%20National/DSC077982.jpg Couldn't remember your username! You're the one who did the install on a car like mine! Thanks for jumping in. So, what say you on a car like mine? Be carefull over 75hp. You will melt sparkplugs. The factory fuel pump will not support much more than that. The Zex wet system pulls fuel off the factory injector rail... If you want more than 75hp, you will need to upgrade the fuel pump. 
Not sure what year your Pony is, but if it's a newer one, you might also want to ditch the 35lb 2-piece driveshaft for a lightweight aluminum unit.
|
|
Quoted:
I only use NOS kits, but I've heard good things about the kit you posted. With the wet kit, do yourself a favor, and add a 1gal fuel cell, and a fuel pump. This makes the Nitrous system stand alone. I lost a 383 once due to low fuel pressure. Almost at the traps @ 137mph, she just burped and farted. Pulled the heads off, and I saw 5 new JE pistons with broken ring lands. Bad day at the track. Need info on the fuel cell and pump...If you ever get a TJ, I can tell you exactly what do to it...but I'm lost with this. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I would go with nitrous express kit, make sure you get a sct to tuner since ur in co to to for the elevation and a set of colder spark plugs. make sure you change them every bottle if your running a 75 wet shot or higher from what other motors ive worked on have shown. I've got a CAI and tuner on the way now. I'm learning cars again, had the Jeep so long I don't know shit about modern cars. Be careful with the tuner... they might jack too much timing in and cause it to detonate. You may be better off leaving the factory tune in it when you hit the juice. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry, can't help. I don't know anything about Nitrous.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc83/yullose/Grand%20National/DSC077982.jpg Couldn't remember your username! You're the one who did the install on a car like mine! Thanks for jumping in. So, what say you on a car like mine? Be carefull over 75hp. You will melt sparkplugs. The factory fuel pump will not support much more than that. The Zex wet system pulls fuel off the factory injector rail... If you want more than 75hp, you will need to upgrade the fuel pump.
Not sure what year your Pony is, but if it's a newer one, you might also want to ditch the 35lb 2-piece driveshaft for a lightweight aluminum unit. Again, what fuel pump etc...I don't mind spending the money to do it right, I just want to be able to remove it if I need warranty work.
|
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
What you need to be most concerned about are lean conditions (not enough fuel) that will make your motor go all Glock on itself. I've read that's more of an issue with a dry system, not the wet ones. The wet kits will melt parts just as quick if the fuel pump can't keep up.
|
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sorry, can't help. I don't know anything about Nitrous.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc83/yullose/Grand%20National/DSC077982.jpg Couldn't remember your username! You're the one who did the install on a car like mine! Thanks for jumping in. So, what say you on a car like mine? Be carefull over 75hp. You will melt sparkplugs. The factory fuel pump will not support much more than that. The Zex wet system pulls fuel off the factory injector rail... If you want more than 75hp, you will need to upgrade the fuel pump.
Not sure what year your Pony is, but if it's a newer one, you might also want to ditch the 35lb 2-piece driveshaft for a lightweight aluminum unit. Again, what fuel pump etc...I don't mind spending the money to do it right, I just want to be able to remove it if I need warranty work. Oh, and it's an 09 |
|
When you say new engine you mean a new car? If its got a warranty you will void it... Alot of the guys in my boat club run nitrous. However they all have very built motors to deal with the extra HP. If your low end cant handle it you are gonna cook your motor if your not carefull. just set it up properly and start small. No need to ram the biggest jet you can find in there.
Also find out how much its gonna cost you to fill your tank and where you can fill it at. I know my guys are spending between 70-120 per tank per fill. they get around 7-10 passes from each tank, each pass is around 6 seconds maybe. Its not an inexspensive add on if you are going to use it alot. here are a couple of pics of the club. and most of us think guns are an exspensive hobby
|