3D suppressors (Page 10 of 11)
FTN.6 Rimfire post anneal and moisture condition. Excuse the fuzzy flecks of paper towel.  Changes from published - deleted the triburst design on the muzzle. First attempt didn't have proper first layer height, which significantly contributed to print failure. 
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Originally Posted By scul: FTN.6 Rimfire post anneal and moisture condition. Excuse the fuzzy flecks of paper towel. https://i.imgur.com/WJmVtx0.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/LtYRdjB.jpeg Changes from published - deleted the triburst design on the muzzle. First attempt didn't have proper first layer height, which significantly contributed to print failure. https://i.imgur.com/nFfvMof.jpeg Nice |
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Well I kinda screwed up. Hooked my boosterless to my Scorpion and went ham right off the rip and it broke after 8ish rounds. Next up was my a 9mm can I put on my blackout thinking I had subs (forgot to mark which box had which, hornadays look the same) and after 3 rounds that can broke. Another can is on the way. I printed a 9mm flow but the print shrank and I can't get the muzzle adpapter to fit. The joys of learning. Printing a FTN 6 Blackout Flow but slowed the prints from 50mms to 30mms and hopefully tomorrow I can see if increasing the size 1% is enough. Attached File |
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Bummer when that happens. Nothing like 10-15 hours of machine time and filament wasted. You'll need to do your X-Y hole compensation to fix the tight threads issue. For you H2D guys, are any of you using the part cooling fan at any point in the print? Trying to clean up my threads with some fine-tuning. Researching online has some folks using the fan to eliminate occasional blobs of filament when you've tried changing retraction settings and it hasn't eliminated them. I ran 8 test prints, increasing the length and speed each time, eventually settled on 3mm and 40 mm/s but still have a few blobs of filament here and there in the threads. I get the same results with both Sunlu and Fiberon. Sunlu is in the E2 at 100° for a second 24 hour drying cycle...we'll see how that works but I've been down this road before. I've dried the crap out of filament and there has not been a significant improvement. Printing at 300°, 100° bed, 60° chamber, 3 volumetric flow, K factor is .015, ratio is .91. Yeah, I know it's low but I've done the calibration 3 times with both YOLO tiles and a cube. Come's out almost the same every time. Think I'll try reducing the temp 5-10° and see if that helps. I did not help when I was trying to print the horizontally printed FTN4.5 PCC. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Bummer when that happens. Nothing like 10-15 hours of machine time and filament wasted. You'll need to do your X-Y hole compensation to fix the tight threads issue. For you H2D guys, are any of you using the part cooling fan at any point in the print? Trying to clean up my threads with some fine-tuning. Researching online has some folks using the fan to eliminate occasional blobs of filament when you've tried changing retraction settings and it hasn't eliminated them. I ran 8 test prints, increasing the length and speed each time, eventually settled on 3mm and 40 mm/s but still have a few blobs of filament here and there in the threads. I get the same results with both Sunlu and Fiberon. Sunlu is in the E2 at 100° for a second 24 hour drying cycle...we'll see how that works but I've been down this road before. I've dried the crap out of filament and there has not been a significant improvement. Printing at 300°, 100° bed, 60° chamber, 3 volumetric flow, K factor is .015, ratio is .91. Yeah, I know it's low but I've done the calibration 3 times with both YOLO tiles and a cube. Come's out almost the same every time. Think I'll try reducing the temp 5-10° and see if that helps. I did not help when I was trying to print the horizontally printed FTN4.5 PCC. Have you looked up 300blkFDE's settings? On the Index of Gun Cad, you can search 300blkfde and it should be the first result. I use a Voron, not a Bambu, but I've used 0 part fan, 300*c nozzle, 90*c bed, 30mm/s for all features, 0.15mm layer height, and an max extrusion rate of 8mm3/s (which I doubt it reaches). Chamber is passively heated, and gets to about 50-55*c. Flow ratio and pressure advance will be dependent and different for each printer. I've been using up cheap Amazon Chinese brand PA6-CF that I bought a while ago, so the above is not for Polymaker. |
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I'm only using the fan on extreme overhangs to help prevent curling. Truthfully I don't think it's even remotely effective due to all the heat buildup in the part and chamber. This is a wild guess, but maybe check the setting "wipe while retracting" in the printers extruder settings. |
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For anyone curious on a follow-up from my resin printing question... With my personal designs, the Inslogic Nylon-Like filament works perfectly within expectations. -22lr Z shaped baffled works well as follows (Version B thick walled): - Subs & Supers on 16" rifle - Ver.B Subs on Ruger mk4 are great, but Supers will blow it up - Ver.A was incompatible with the pistol -9mm with multi-ported cone baffles: - 8" barrel length works great with mixed subs & supers, fired 100 rounds keeping temps in mind - 4" pistol barrel subs popped it. Current batch of Form1s marking: (The aluminum 22lr can is a 3d printed core and works fine one pistol & rifle. Not very quiet though, but it is pretty small) NotesAttached File |
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Originally Posted By scul: Have you looked up 300blkFDE's settings? On the Index of Gun Cad, you can search 300blkfde and it should be the first result. I use a Voron, not a Bambu, but I've used 0 part fan, 300*c nozzle, 90*c bed, 30mm/s for all features, 0.15mm layer height, and an max extrusion rate of 8mm3/s (which I doubt it reaches). Chamber is passively heated, and gets to about 50-55*c. Flow ratio and pressure advance will be dependent and different for each printer. I've been using up cheap Amazon Chinese brand PA6-CF that I bought a while ago, so the above is not for Polymaker. Out of desperation I tried 300blkfde's settings...it was a complete mess, worse than anything I've seen before. Dug it out of the trash...here it is;  Filament should be done drying in about an hour. I'm going to print an X-Y hole compensation first then try my threaded test piece again. Think I'll also try printing out of the E2 instead of the HT...maybe the resistance feeding from the HT is adding to the problem. Yes Blob, I do have 'wipe while retracting' enabled. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Out of desperation I tried 300blkfde's settings...it was a complete mess, worse than anything I've seen before. Dug it out of the trash...here it is; https://i.imgur.com/IpGNk6U.jpeg Filament should be done drying in about an hour. I'm going to print an X-Y hole compensation first then try my threaded test piece again. Think I'll also try printing out of the E2 instead of the HT...maybe the resistance feeding from the HT is adding to the problem. Yes Blob, I do have 'wipe while retracting' enabled. WTF. Maybe time to trade in for a Prusa?  Are you using a high flow nozzle by chance? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Out of desperation I tried 300blkfde's settings...it was a complete mess, worse than anything I've seen before. Dug it out of the trash...here it is; https://i.imgur.com/IpGNk6U.jpeg Filament should be done drying in about an hour. I'm going to print an X-Y hole compensation first then try my threaded test piece again. Think I'll also try printing out of the E2 instead of the HT...maybe the resistance feeding from the HT is adding to the problem. Yes Blob, I do have 'wipe while retracting' enabled. I think you've already checked, but that looks like one or more of: 1) wet filament 2) worn out nozzle 3) partial clog |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Out of desperation I tried 300blkfde's settings...it was a complete mess, worse than anything I've seen before. Dug it out of the trash...here it is; https://i.imgur.com/IpGNk6U.jpeg Filament should be done drying in about an hour. I'm going to print an X-Y hole compensation first then try my threaded test piece again. Think I'll also try printing out of the E2 instead of the HT...maybe the resistance feeding from the HT is adding to the problem. Yes Blob, I do have 'wipe while retracting' enabled. Are you printing muzzle (downrange) down on the buildplate? That picture almost looks the gun interface side... it's missing a lot of the inside. Ah, it's just the threads cut from the main file? Edit: have you tried the base Bambu PA6-CF profile? Might want to just start over and tune up again. |
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In ga so no 3d prints of firearm cans without F1. So got to test one out in another way. The tactical BB Buck gun. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By Blob: WTF. Maybe time to trade in for a Prusa? Are you using a high flow nozzle by chance? A Prusa has crossed my mind. Currently using a Diamondback .06, standard flow nozzle. Tried Bambu's profile also, didn't help a bit. The piece I'm printing is the threaded section of the FTN5 Comstock PCC. No sense in printing the whole thing if I can't get the threads right. What is doubly confusing is that every one of the FTN5 rimfires' I've printed, as well as a FTN5 PCC Flow, came out great. My printing problems started when I tried to print the FTN4.5 PCC. It sits on the bed at about a 10 or 15 degree angle with supports. After 5 or 6 attempts I gave up and focused my attention on the Comstock PCC. Figured an upright print would be a piece of cake. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: A Prusa has crossed my mind. Currently using a Diamondback .06, standard flow nozzle. Tried Bambu's profile also, didn't help a bit. The piece I'm printing is the threaded section of the FTN5 Comstock PCC. No sense in printing the whole thing if I can't get the threads right. What is doubly confusing is that every one of the FTN5 rimfires' I've printed, as well as a FTN5 PCC Flow, came out great. My printing problems started when I tried to print the FTN4.5 PCC. It sits on the bed at about a 10 or 15 degree angle with supports. After 5 or 6 attempts I gave up and focused my attention on the Comstock PCC. Figured an upright print would be a piece of cake. Still have access to the last successful .gcode file? Can you download that file, then import it into Orca/Bambu Slicer and pull the settings back in? |
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Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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Originally Posted By scul: Still have access to the last successful .gcode file? Can you download that file, then import it into Orca/Bambu Slicer and pull the settings back in? |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Out of desperation I tried 300blkfde's settings...it was a complete mess, worse than anything I've seen before. Dug it out of the trash...here it is; https://i.imgur.com/IpGNk6U.jpeg Filament should be done drying in about an hour. I'm going to print an X-Y hole compensation first then try my threaded test piece again. Think I'll also try printing out of the E2 instead of the HT...maybe the resistance feeding from the HT is adding to the problem. Yes Blob, I do have 'wipe while retracting' enabled. You seem much more knowledgeable about these things than I. I also have some ugly threads on my prints. I was researching online and I found that Sunlu PA5-CF needs a nozzle of 275 and at 300 you can get issues. I was printing mine at 300 c with dry filament and used 300blkfde settings. so I don't know if that is an issue. |
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I tested out a few yesterday. FTN 5 22lr slim, FTN 6 22lr, FTN 6 9mm w/ booster, and FTN 6 9mm PCC. all worked well. the 9mm with booster model is not ok without modifying the model, or modifying the piston, as the star pattern for it is not even in the model. also, couldn't get it perfectly aligned on my M&P where it was intended, but it does function fine. will probably try the boosterless next and throw the boostered one on something else. the new FTN 6 22lr is less than 3 oz, and it feels like nothing on my G44, i like it a lot. im still form 1'ing them because michigan, but had a couple in 2 days, last one took a week, so im still cranking them out. setting stuff up so they can just all have a permanent can, because swapping is dumb. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Bummer when that happens. Nothing like 10-15 hours of machine time and filament wasted. You'll need to do your X-Y hole compensation to fix the tight threads issue. For you H2D guys, are any of you using the part cooling fan at any point in the print? Trying to clean up my threads with some fine-tuning. Researching online has some folks using the fan to eliminate occasional blobs of filament when you've tried changing retraction settings and it hasn't eliminated them. I ran 8 test prints, increasing the length and speed each time, eventually settled on 3mm and 40 mm/s but still have a few blobs of filament here and there in the threads. I get the same results with both Sunlu and Fiberon. Sunlu is in the E2 at 100° for a second 24 hour drying cycle...we'll see how that works but I've been down this road before. I've dried the crap out of filament and there has not been a significant improvement. Printing at 300°, 100° bed, 60° chamber, 3 volumetric flow, K factor is .015, ratio is .91. Yeah, I know it's low but I've done the calibration 3 times with both YOLO tiles and a cube. Come's out almost the same every time. Think I'll try reducing the temp 5-10° and see if that helps. I did not help when I was trying to print the horizontally printed FTN4.5 PCC. I had a hell of a time dialing in my QIDI Plus 4, which is probably more similar to the Bambu H2D as far as printer capability vs the Bambu P1S series. I took my filament roll straight from the package and put it in the dehydrator at 70C for over 24 hours. Then from there it was put in my Sunlu S2 to print from. It kept my filament dry for 3 days it took to use up a 500g roll. 1. Calibrate flow using OrcaSlicer and run all their tests to dial in exactly what flow rate works. I ended up at 0.9702 for a flow ratio.https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/flow_ratio_calib.html 2. Then dial in your pressure advance, and I like to use the pattern method. I ended up with a 0.035 PA value.https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/adaptive_pressure_advance_calib.html 3. You can now tune retraction, but if you get flow and pressure advance dialed in this is less important and I usually skip it. I recently started decreasing mine because on my Bambu P1S the z seams were horrible, but some of it was retraction settings along with the z seam gap setting. 4. Z offset - On Bambu you just got to hope it dials that in, but on other printers make sure you lay down a good first layer. I print at 0.15mm layer height but 0.2mm first layer. I found that little extra thickness helped the brim hold better. 5. Use some sort of bed adhesion promoter. I used Magigoo PA, but VisionMiner has one too. I don't worry about nozzle temp because for 2A stuff you print hot for max layer adhesion. I printed Polymaker PA6-CF at 300C initial layer 295C for everything else. Basically start with 300BlkFDE settings you can download the profile for. I changed a few things, but not much. He basically just slows the printer way down because you have to for nylon anyway. I did find his support settings to be pretty good as well. They are firm, but do break free. Now for bed and chamber temps this is where I had a hell of a time figuring that out. Polymaker calls for a bed temp of 40C-50C and open chamber. None of that worked for me. Sunlu calls for 70C bed and a heated chamber of about 60C. I haven't printed with Sunlu yet to see if my settings transfer over, but should still work. In research I've seen people print from 35C bed to 100C bed with PA6-CF. I ended up with 80C bed for initial layer and 75C after. Chamber temp setpoint 65C and in my insulated QIDI Plus 4 my chamber temp hovered about 69-72C during the print. This kept the nylon above it's glass transition temperature allowing it to very slowly cool down to minimize warping. Every print I've done since figuring that out has been fantastic. My thread adapters thread on with no issues at all.   
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Originally Posted By memsu: I had a hell of a time dialing in my QIDI Plus 4, which is probably more similar to the Bambu H2D as far as printer capability vs the Bambu P1S series. I took my filament roll straight from the package and put it in the dehydrator at 70C for over 24 hours. Then from there it was put in my Sunlu S2 to print from. It kept my filament dry for 3 days it took to use up a 500g roll. 1. Calibrate flow using OrcaSlicer and run all their tests to dial in exactly what flow rate works. I ended up at 0.9702 for a flow ratio.https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/flow_ratio_calib.html 2. Then dial in your pressure advance, and I like to use the pattern method. I ended up with a 0.035 PA value.https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/adaptive_pressure_advance_calib.html 3. You can now tune retraction, but if you get flow and pressure advance dialed in this is less important and I usually skip it. I recently started decreasing mine because on my Bambu P1S the z seams were horrible, but some of it was retraction settings along with the z seam gap setting. 4. Z offset - On Bambu you just got to hope it dials that in, but on other printers make sure you lay down a good first layer. I print at 0.15mm layer height but 0.2mm first layer. I found that little extra thickness helped the brim hold better. 5. Use some sort of bed adhesion promoter. I used Magigoo PA, but VisionMiner has one too. I don't worry about nozzle temp because for 2A stuff you print hot for max layer adhesion. I printed Polymaker PA6-CF at 300C initial layer 295C for everything else. Basically start with 300BlkFDE settings you can download the profile for. I changed a few things, but not much. He basically just slows the printer way down because you have to for nylon anyway. I did find his support settings to be pretty good as well. They are firm, but do break free. Now for bed and chamber temps this is where I had a hell of a time figuring that out. Polymaker calls for a bed temp of 40C-50C and open chamber. None of that worked for me. Sunlu calls for 70C bed and a heated chamber of about 60C. I haven't printed with Sunlu yet to see if my settings transfer over, but should still work. In research I've seen people print from 35C bed to 100C bed with PA6-CF. I ended up with 80C bed for initial layer and 75C after. Chamber temp setpoint 65C and in my insulated QIDI Plus 4 my chamber temp hovered about 69-72C during the print. This kept the nylon above it's glass transition temperature allowing it to very slowly cool down to minimize warping. Every print I've done since figuring that out has been fantastic. My thread adapters thread on with no issues at all. https://i.imgur.com/VVVAike.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/R7vYWS3.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/wsbrkAB.jpeg Your prints look really, really good. Clean threads and features. I did all the calibrations until I was blue in the face but kept ending up with flows in the low 90s. One time during the pressure advance testing it spiked to .025 but the others were in the .013-.015 range. Haven't had any problems with adhesion, use mostly stick glue for CF filament, Bambu and Geetech interchangeably though Bambu stick glue is a little cleaner. Geetech is really cheap though. The PA6CF came out of the dryer last evening. This was it's second 24 hour drying cycle at 100°. Printed the threaded test piece and it was much improved but it still needs some tuning. Retraction lengths and speeds were the last settings I messed with so I'm not sure where to go from here. It has been mentioned that you can get a bad roll of filament and that could be what I'm dealing with. Got two more rolls on the shelf so I guess I'd better get one into the dryer. Thanks for your comments. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Your prints look really, really good. Clean threads and features. I did all the calibrations until I was blue in the face but kept ending up with flows in the low 90s. One time during the pressure advance testing it spiked to .025 but the others were in the .013-.015 range. Haven't had any problems with adhesion, use mostly stick glue for CF filament, Bambu and Geetech interchangeably though Bambu stick glue is a little cleaner. Geetech is really cheap though. The PA6CF came out of the dryer last evening. This was it's second 24 hour drying cycle at 100°. Printed the threaded test piece and it was much improved but it still needs some tuning. Retraction lengths and speeds were the last settings I messed with so I'm not sure where to go from here. It has been mentioned that you can get a bad roll of filament and that could be what I'm dealing with. Got two more rolls on the shelf so I guess I'd better get one into the dryer. Thanks for your comments. I was going to suggest trying a different roll. I have had random rolls misbehave even though I've ran dozens of rolls of the same exact stuff before with the same settings. Use one with a different lot number. |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: I'm curious why people are printing 22 cans in expensive filaments now. It seems like pla+ should work fine for them, especially if they aren't on short barreled frt guns. I suppose the whole hot car deforming the can thing, but there's no reason to be attached to the can anymore, just make another one. |
Finally got some decent threads. Not perfect but good enough that the Comstock hub adaptor fits great. Sunlu filament spent a total of 48 hours in the E2 dryer at 100°. Gotta do the calibrations again to see if I come up with a number higher than .9025.  
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Anybody have this problem? Started a Comstock PCC Flow print today and about an hour into it I found this; https://i.imgur.com/gVGCh92.jpeg After slicing the file I got a warning about floating regions but ran the print anyway. I just printed the Comstock PCC and did not get the same warning. I just sliced the "Comstock FTN.5 PCC Flow.stl", and got the same warning about floating regions also. edit: I looked through the first 20 mm in the slicer, and I didn't see anything obviously wrong that would cause those strings. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Anybody have this problem? Started a Comstock PCC Flow print today and about an hour into it I found this; https://i.imgur.com/gVGCh92.jpeg After slicing the file I got a warning about floating regions but ran the print anyway. I just printed the Comstock PCC and did not get the same warning. The floating region warning is because the model is comprised of several different parts instead of a single body. Each individual baffle is just floating in air and the slicer merges them all together and that's not what's causing the stringing. What does the slicer preview look like there? I bet there are travel moves that line up with those strings. The flow actually has a bunch of extra parts. This is what it looks like when split to objects: Attached File |
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Great illustration. OK, that makes sense. I've seen the warning on other files but I was looking to place the blame on someone else. Methinks my part cooling fan is running too fast. I noticed that it was running during the print...at variable speeds. Filament settings showed 100% fan speed for overhangs. Not sure how that setting got there but I'm reducing it to 40%. Boy, if it isn't one thing, it's another! |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Anybody have this problem? Started a Comstock PCC Flow print today and about an hour into it I found this; https://i.imgur.com/gVGCh92.jpeg After slicing the file I got a warning about floating regions but ran the print anyway. I just printed the Comstock PCC and did not get the same warning. Make your overhang speeds very low too like 10 mm/s. Also, lower your layer heights to help overhangs. |
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I shot my 9mm boosted K can yesterday on my P80 that has a threaded barrel and some 147gr subsonic. Shot into dirt bank of creek that runs behind house. It didn't blow up, so that's a start. I thought it would be a little more quiet, but no ringing ears. I live not far from city limits, so stopped after only 2 rounds. I'll have to shoot more at range on next trip. |
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Originally Posted By memsu: I shot my 9mm boosted K can yesterday on my P80 that has a threaded barrel and some 147gr subsonic. Shot into dirt bank of creek that runs behind house. It didn't blow up, so that's a start. I thought it would be a little more quiet, but no ringing ears. I live not far from city limits, so stopped after only 2 rounds. I'll have to shoot more at range on next trip. Yeah, I can't say I'm very impressed with the performance of the FTN.6 series... Compared to other 3d printed ones, they just aren't that quiet, even 22lr which is pretty easy to suppress was comparitively loud. They do print fairly easily compared to some other options though. |
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Yeah, I can't say I'm very impressed with the performance of the FTN.6 series... Compared to other 3d printed ones, they just aren't that quiet, even 22lr which is pretty easy to suppress was comparitively loud. They do print fairly easily compared to some other options though. Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Originally Posted By memsu: I shot my 9mm boosted K can yesterday on my P80 that has a threaded barrel and some 147gr subsonic. Shot into dirt bank of creek that runs behind house. It didn't blow up, so that's a start. I thought it would be a little more quiet, but no ringing ears. I live not far from city limits, so stopped after only 2 rounds. I'll have to shoot more at range on next trip. Yeah, I can't say I'm very impressed with the performance of the FTN.6 series... Compared to other 3d printed ones, they just aren't that quiet, even 22lr which is pretty easy to suppress was comparitively loud. They do print fairly easily compared to some other options though. I have printed a few 22 models and thought they were fairly comparable to some of my current, highly rated cans, on back to back tests they were just barely noticeably louder on a M&P 15-22 pistol, likely the port pop evened things out a bit. I'd like to see SA or Juicy Media do some tests on printed cans to see what they are comparable with. I've quit chasing DBs so cans I can print at home and have one for every gun will be a bonus for me. I'll still be buying some 'actual' cans, but this bridges the gap for now. Every 22 gets one, every AR and 9mm gets ones, truck gun gets one etc... |
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: https://i.imgur.com/AEhPf5E.png That what I am interested in printing baffles to fit a metal serviceable tube. When the dust settles hopefully it will be easy to print replacements or updates. |
Tennessee Squire
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: https://i.imgur.com/AEhPf5E.png I'd love to be able to stick with straight 3d printed baffles, but the heat deflection temps of most of them are too low in the 300-500f range before they soften. So far it looks like lost pla/wax casting aluminum is still the thing to beat. If the SnowX desktop DMLS/SLS printer proves to be real at ~$8k I'll be all in on that! |
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit: I'd love to be able to stick with straight 3d printed baffles, but the heat deflection temps of most of them are too low in the 300-500f range before they soften. So far it looks like lost pla/wax casting aluminum is still the thing to beat. I don't have the equipment to try it, but I've always wondered about pressing cones from sheet in a hydraulic press. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: I don't have the equipment to try it, but I've always wondered about pressing cones from sheet in a hydraulic press. Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By blwngazkit: I'd love to be able to stick with straight 3d printed baffles, but the heat deflection temps of most of them are too low in the 300-500f range before they soften. So far it looks like lost pla/wax casting aluminum is still the thing to beat. I don't have the equipment to try it, but I've always wondered about pressing cones from sheet in a hydraulic press. I've tried using a 12 ton press and the thinnest fender washers that I could find. It didn't work well, but I was using an improvised die, so that could have been part of the problem. One thing I noticed when I researched it is that the only commercial cans that i could find that used stamped baffles were very cheap .22 cans oversees. My guess is that, even with good tooling, it is an inefficient way to make durable baffles. |
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I have 2 form 1 cans that use pressed freeze plugs as baffles. I just found the center, drilled a 1/8" hole, squished it down with a ball bearing while it was in a sizing die, then drilled it out to the final bore size. Iirc, I used a 5/16", iirc for a 30 cal can. They have mostly been used on 16" ars in 5.56, but my short one has Ben on an AK a bit. Even the blast baffles look pretty ok still and it's been several years. The cans are pretty heavy though. One is 8" overall and one is 5". The 8" one is titanium and the 5" one is stainless. Iirc, they both have 6 baffles and both use exhaust tubing as spacers between the baffles. They both weigh about 15oz |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: https://i.imgur.com/AEhPf5E.png Is that a Maglite tube or some other tube you cut threads in? Is it a tube you can readily buy? |
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Originally Posted By memsu: Is that a Maglite tube or some other tube you cut threads in? Is it a tube you can readily buy?  I bought TI tubes pre-threaded after my form 1s were approved. Oh. and unrelated to this, a general comment based on somebody else's comment from earlier. One can have an inner core 3-D printed in metal by a commercial 3d printing firm if you have an approved form 1 as that inner core part is not a suppressor and you are the maker. Just design it in cad, upload to metal printing company and include in your build. |
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Successful print of the FTN5 Comstock PCC. Reduced the layer height and overhang speeds and had no stringing (thank you Memsu). Threads have been my biggest nemesis and although only one booger shows in the pic there were a few more in there. Blob has suggested my prints look like there is still moisture in the filament even thought it has been dried for a total of 48 hours at 100°, so I'll give it another 12 hours and see how it prints. Printing with an H2D, bed 100°, chamber 60°, Fiberon PA6CF, .20 layer height, 30 mm/s except for overhangs were done at 10 mm/s.  
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Did some mag dumping with one of my PA6-CF FTN.5 rimfires on a Ruger Mk2. I ran 150 rounds of Federal bulk and CCI Blazer through the can, rapid fire, stopping twice to reload my five mags. The highest temperature I recorded with my FLIR TG56 was 128C (262F) at the proximal end of the suppressor. I didn't notice any loss of sound reduction performance and the can didn't show any signs of drooping. After cooling down I took it off and inspected it. The texturing in the blast chamber looks pristine, however the first baffle shows some pretty significant melting/erosion. It was still working fine and I had no trouble hitting an 8" gong at 30 yards so accuracy didn't seem to suffer. I did the same test with an FTN.6 rimfire and it only lasted about 55-60 rounds before splitting in half at the blast chamber due to the much smaller cross section. It does appear that the first baffle was beginning to erode even after just 50 or so rounds. Still super happy with both designs and they both sound amazing! The FTN.5 is an absolute beast and the FTN.6 makes an excellent choice on a rifle that sees much lower temps and pressures at the muzzle. Attached File Attached File Attached File FTN.6: Attached File |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Successful print of the FTN5 Comstock PCC. Reduced the layer height and overhang speeds and had no stringing (thank you Memsu). Threads have been my biggest nemesis and although only one booger shows in the pic there were a few more in there. Blob has suggested my prints look like there is still moisture in the filament even thought it has been dried for a total of 48 hours at 100°, so I'll give it another 12 hours and see how it prints. Printing with an H2D, bed 100°, chamber 60°, Fiberon PA6CF, .20 layer height, 30 mm/s except for overhangs were done at 10 mm/s. https://i.imgur.com/XpjKkys.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/OoGPP7F.jpeg I did one with the same texture. I could send you my file if you use orca slicer Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Did some mag dumping with one of my PA6-CF FTN.5 rimfires on a Ruger Mk2. I ran 150 rounds of Federal bulk and CCI Blazer through the can, rapid fire, stopping twice to reload my five mags. The highest temperature I recorded with my FLIR TG56 was 128C (262F) at the proximal end of the suppressor. I didn't notice any loss of sound reduction performance and the can didn't show any signs of drooping. After cooling down I took it off and inspected it. The texturing in the blast chamber looks pristine, however the first baffle shows some pretty significant melting/erosion. It was still working fine and I had no trouble hitting an 8" gong at 30 yards so accuracy didn't seem to suffer. I did the same test with an FTN.6 rimfire and it only lasted about 55-60 rounds before splitting in half at the blast chamber due to the much smaller cross section. It does appear that the first baffle was beginning to erode even after just 50 or so rounds. Still super happy with both designs and they both sound amazing! The FTN.5 is an absolute beast and the FTN.6 makes an excellent choice on a rifle that sees much lower temps and pressures at the muzzle. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022348_jpg-3822316.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022350_jpg-3822318.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022353_jpg-3822319.JPG FTN.6: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000022041_jpg-3822320.JPG Coming apart at the z-layers like that is what engineering filaments do. Techniques to help with that include thicker walls, printing on a 45, printing horizontal, using a metal outer tube, or fiberglassing/carbon-fibering it with resin for a more durable outer wall. |