I'll take it.

Got the clog out and everything nice and clean. Put it back together and it wouldn’t extrude filament. Not even a little bit. While trying to figure that out, the tensioner arm broke. No big deal, I have a replacement. Of course, as is my luck, the bearing from the broken arm got stuck. To fix that, the entire X carriage assembly had to come apart.

I need a drink.

I've been printing with this stuff lately Priline Polycarbonate Carbon Fiber

It's a blended Polycarbonate / PETG with carbon fiber in it... prints beautifully at 250*C / 90* bed and so far seems fairly tough.

Yes. You do need a drink.

(coming from someone currently working through replacing/upgrading their hotend)

I've seen that, didn't know if it was any good.

Interest officially piqued.

Well, that’s enough of that. It took an entire day to get the printer up and running again, did one test XYZ cube and then it jammed up. Just a bunch of money down the toilet.

Did you cut part of the old bowden tube off, as well as making sure it was seated ALL the way into your hot end. Plus you need to Tighten down the nozzle with the machine heated up as well.

Yes

Maybe I need the 3 year old version. From the filament to the bed, what exactly (by model number) are you using for the equipment? I did see you mentioned the Nozzle X, so that was a start. I know you old guys hate to spell the shit out for the newbies, but for those of us just getting into it, it sure would be helpful. Thanks.

RP prints on a Prusa MK3S+.

They don't really need a ton of extras or upgrades. They just work.

Most people end up with a hardened nozzle. Whether that be a Tungsten, Hardened Steel, or Ruby nozzle, whatever. But other than that people just do minor tweaks...nothing ground breaking.

The filament he is referencing is the Atomic CF PETG. There is only one variety on their site, sold in several colors.

I've done PETG on my Ender3 several times. The bed heats up slow after 60. I would only run the nozzle at 235 on the stock setup. Micro Swiss is the go to for all metal hot end. Trying to get my Sidewinder to print in the 250-265 range is proving to be a PIA.

I have a CR10S which shares enough with the Ender. It will print regular PETG fine stock. The higher temps on the CF PETG will fry the bowden tube. Gulfcoast Robotics has a bolt on all metal MK8 hotend for $30. Any hardened MK8 nozzles will fit (A2 steel, tungsten, etc). Stock firmware should get you to 255 or 260 no problem.

@davewvu86

I am fairly new to 3d printing myself and I also have an ender 3 v2. I have been wanting to do do some higher temp and abrasive material as well.

From what I have read so far and after talking to some people in my local microcenter, I realized I needed to get an all metal hot end, hardened steel nozzle, and make an update in the firmware/configuration to set the max temp higher. I ended up buying a microswiss hot end and hardened steel nozzle. I have not installed the nozzle or upped the temp in the firmware. I also figure I would be using Elmers washable glue stick (purple one) on the bed.

FYI Microswiss is having a sale Black Friday through Cyber Monday for 35% off (code: BFCM35) https://store.micro-swiss.com/

For what its worth, I also keep hearing that the extruder drive for the ender 3 is a known failure part. Yesterday I ordered the microswiss extruder drive using the discount code. I swapped the stock one out for a cheapy Amazon one and it is not good quality and has a major design flaw, hence the upgrade to the microswiss.

Will all that said, I ended up ordering a Prusa printer on the Black Friday sale (free shipping, free spool of filament, and free extra print bed). I also had a bunch of paypal rewards, so I got it for very little out of pocket. As of this time, I plan on keeping both printers around. I don't plan on pursuing the high temp stuff on the ender anymore, as the Prusa is capable of higher temps out of the box, and has some good safety measures built in. I do plan on getting a better nozzle for it though, so I can print abrasive materials.

Thanks! I picked up a Micro Swiss A2 plated wear resistant nozzle the other day. I also added a CR Touch sensor along with upgraded bed springs, a Capricorn tube, and aluminum extruder, which all came in a kit with the CR Touch. When I was installing the aluminum extruder, I found a crack in the stock plastic one, so that was perfect timing.

I've read that PETG is sensitive to moisture, so I also grabbed a Combgrow 2 roll filament dry box. They're on sale for $55 with code BOX20 https://www.comgrow.com/products/comgrow-pla-filament-dryer-box-storage?variant=39520760725547

I'll go ahead and grab the Micro Swiss hot end since it's on sale. I want to start making things to use in my truck and out on my Sea Doo Fish Pro, so I need a material that's more durable in the Florida sun.  

@Rat_Patrol

Have you printed anything that takes shock or load (like a frame) yet?

Had an esun PLA+ Scorpion stock fail an accidental drop test today

Wanted some performance feedback on how well the Atomic CF PETG performs.

Appreciate the quick response! Going to order some and give it a go. Needed an excuse to try out a new 0.6mm tungsten nozzle anyway.

Side note, at least on the PLA failure I learned something, it was a worst case drop from table height onto concrete. Impact occurred at a stress riser and it sheared perpendicular to the layers. Was just a corner of the stock where the rubber buttpad is supposed to slide on, so nothing critical.